Milwaukee Cordless Ratchets - maximum manual torque rating?

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It is common for technicians to use their cordless ratchets as a "manual ratchet" to break a fastener loose.

Snap-On lists a "maximum manual torque" for their ratchets and the number is quite impressive.

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I am curious if Milwaukee has a similar spec for their cordless ratchets. I noticed my Milwaukee ratchet body likes to flex if I apply any significant amount of force to it.
 
Found this:


I suspect the body is the weak link, given my experiences with the flexing, but I could be wrong. If their position is unchanged with the latest ratchets, Snap-On may have a significant advantage here.
 
Found this:


I suspect the body is the weak link, given my experiences with the flexing, but I could be wrong. If their position is unchanged with the latest ratchets, Snap-On may have a significant advantage here.
This was my thinking, too, body is the weak link.

To get torque above the rated 30 ftlbs, you’re applying force to the tool body, which is plastic. I doubt there’s metal structure under it to handle much force beyond that needed to develop the rated torque.

I’ll give mine (I’ve got the 1/4” and 3/8”) a push to a bit beyond where the motor stalls, but if it’s more than about 40 ftlbs, it’s time for a breaker bar or ratchet.
 
I can't imagine using an electric ratchet (in 3/8 drive!) to loosen a nut that tight.
I think Snap-On may have anticipated their customer base (some of whom are neanderthals) using that ratchet for brake jobs. As you know, those caliper bracket bolts can often require a lot of force to break loose.
 
Of course, when I Google it, I get your post on Garage Journal…

 
Of course, when I Google it, I get your post on Garage Journal…

Critic always hedges his bets. 😁
 
So are people avoiding a cordless impact? Or using the cordless ratchet in a place one cannot get a cordless impact into.

But if you cannot get in a cordless impact in there can you get a breaker bar in there?

I for one think if the issue a stuck rusty bolt you may have better chance of getting the bolt out rather than snapped off with an impact than a breaker bar.
 
Or using the cordless ratchet in a place one cannot get a cordless impact into.
This. Let’s say you’re doing a FWD timing cover reseal. A cordless ratchet is the quickest way to remove the 15+ fasteners. Some of those fasteners may need to be “broken loose” due to corrosion or having some RTV on them.
 
At one time I was trying to do the upper bellhousing bolts on my Nova with my M12 ratchet, 24" extension, and a universal joint. May have been two 24" extensions.

Anyway, I was really cranking on the end of the ratchet and the battery finally flew out and across the floor. I then thought, "yeah, that probably wasn't a great idea" and grabbed the conventional ratchet to break it loose, then spun it out with the Milwaukee.

The ratchet is no worse for the wear, but I agree that the plastic construction makes it unlikely to get to 150 lb/ft. Even if it could withstand that force, it wouldn't be the best tool for the task. It's my favorite tool for sure.
 
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