Mazdaspeed3 Owners: What oil are you running now?

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We all know this 2.3L, direct injected, 116.5hp/L turbo is tough on oil. Please identify your brand and viscosity plus your OCI. Any comments pro or con on your current or past oils would be of interest.

As for me, I ran PYB on short OCIs for 18,000 miles then went to PP (all 5w30). I run a lot of short trips and get high fuel in my UOAs so still sticking with ~4,000 mi OCI. Wondering about trying M1 0W-40 but concerned about winter cold starts.
 
Originally Posted By: Indydriver
Wondering about trying M1 0W-40 but concerned about winter cold starts.

Why would you be concerned about winter cold starts with M1 0w-40? It's perfect for that.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Indydriver
Wondering about trying M1 0W-40 but concerned about winter cold starts.

Why would you be concerned about winter cold starts with M1 0w-40? It's perfect for that.


+1....M-1 0w40 is perfect for cold starts...and considered by many on this forum....as the best oil M-1 produced. It would be my choice if I had your vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Indydriver
Wondering about trying M1 0W-40 but concerned about winter cold starts.

Why would you be concerned about winter cold starts with M1 0w-40? It's perfect for that.


Thanks for the response and encouragement re: M1 0W-40. I have a couple of OCs worth in the garage and I'm looking for an excuse to try it.

The reason for my concern is that my car is parked in an open air garage at work and is subject to 0F and colder starts during our cold Indiana winters. If MRV -40 is the best test for cold starts (and if you've got a better one, I'd love to know it), 0W-40 is over twice the viscosity of 0w30 (31,000 vs 13,250) and the specified 5w30. That seems significant to me and I certainly don't want to diminish quick circulation of cold oil in this turbocharged engine.

OTOH, my UOAs show significant fuel dilution at 3,000 miles. So, even though I have plenty of TBN left at that usage, the viscosity is down in the xxW-20 range. Mazda is concerned about minimum viscosity in this engine as they recently issued a warranty extension on the turbo and timing chain only if at least xxW-30 oil is used. So my thought process is that 0W-40 would keep the viscosity up but clearly the 0W with the 40 is higher than the 0W viscosity in the 30.

To boil this down to my question, do you think that the higher cold viscosity of M1 0W-40 will cause more start up wear than 0w30 or 5w30?

Also, I'm looking for a once-a-year oil for this car as I only put 4-5,000 miles per year on it, but with lots of short trips (i.e., 4 miles one way to work).
 
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I run PP 5w30 in my Mazda CX7 turbo 2.3L, DI engine (244HP). 6,000 mi oil change interval and OEM or MC filters. Several UOAs showed good wear using the 6K interval. I do frequent short 2 mile trips but, try to get a 10 mile highway trip in every 100 miles or so. PP & PU meet the Honda/Acura turbo spec.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
I run PP 5w30 in my Mazda CX7 turbo 2.3L, DI engine (244HP). 6,000 mi oil change interval and OEM or MC filters. Several UOAs showed good wear using the 6K interval. I do frequent short 2 mile trips but, try to get a 10 mile highway trip in every 100 miles or so. PP & PU meet the Honda/Acura turbo spec.

How much fuel are you seeing in your UOAs?
 
maybe this is too simplied a poitn of view..

You are running PP 5w30, one of the thinner 5w30

and you want thicker to deal with fuel dilution (i get it, i have 2.0T DI, 137 hp/liter) BUT you want decent flow at start-up...

I think M1 0w-40 would be fine, its what i use and I have cold winters in PA...HOWEVER if worried its too thick when cold, why not then 1st try a thicker 5w30 like Redline OR GC 0w30 ?

redline's 5w30 has killer flash point, hths, noack, and pour point compared to your PP 5w30, but its cold visc is not much thicker at all. Looks like what you're after... GC0w-30 same deal IMO...
 
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