I recently performed a transmission service on a Mazda 3 sedan that is equipped with the 2.0L Skyactiv engine.
The transmission service on this car is performed a bit differently than other Mazdas so I wanted to pass along a few tips in case anyone decides to do one. In all honesty, this one is a lot easier than most transmissions that are marketed as "sealed" or "filled-for-life."
Here we go:
- You need to remove the underbody cover in order to remove the drain plug. The drain plug uses a 8mm allen key.
- Depending on the temperature, you will drain between 3.5-4 quarts. Install a new drain plug washer before re-installing the drain plug. You may find the drain plug washer to be stuck onto the pan - I had to use a painter's pole scraper and a mallet to remove the washer.
- There is a grey-colored dipstick marked "FZ" that is secured by a bolt. It is much easier to remove the bolt from under the car.
- To fill the transmission, some folks suggest removing the air intake tube to allow for more room to insert a funnel - but this is not necessary. There is a radiator hose that is adjacent to the air intake; the radiator hose is secured by a bracket. Remove the bracket (1 bolt) and this will allow you to move the hose around. By doing so, this step will give you barely enough room to squeeze a long funnel (18") into the space. I actually inserted a second funnel into the long funnel to allow for easier pouring.
- When refilling, start with 3.5 quarts. Start the engine and connect your scan tool to confirm the AT fluid temperature. The fluid level should be checked at 122F, which is warm (but not hot). Mazda only states that the fluid should be checked at a minimum of 122F, but does not specify a maximum temp. I would check/adjust the fluid level no higher than a few degrees above 122F; any AT fluid level will rise significantly once warmed up, so if you check the fluid level when the temp is too high, you may risk an under-fill.
- Check the fluid from underneath the car - this is the easiest way to access the dipstick. Do not try to remove the dipstick from the engine compartment. This particular vehicle took a total of 3.75 quarts for the drain and refill. If you do not have access to a scan tool, my experience was that the fluid temperature was at 122F within 1 minutes of start-up (but I drained the fluid when the car was still fairly hot and refilled right away, so your experience may vary).
Untitled by The Critic, on Flickr
This is a picture of the old fluid with 49,000 miles - it still looks very good. This transmission holds about 8 quarts and you will remove 40-50% with a drain and refill. The transmission does not have external cooler lines, so a "flush" is not possible. After the drain/refill, the fluid was a bit lighter, but did not turn blue.
Untitled by The Critic, on Flickr
Yes, the fluid is blue, but it turns light yellow after a few miles.
Untitled by The Critic, on Flickr
Confirming the fluid temperature before performing a level check - which is the ideal method for verifying the fluid level.
The transmission service on this car is performed a bit differently than other Mazdas so I wanted to pass along a few tips in case anyone decides to do one. In all honesty, this one is a lot easier than most transmissions that are marketed as "sealed" or "filled-for-life."
Here we go:
- You need to remove the underbody cover in order to remove the drain plug. The drain plug uses a 8mm allen key.
- Depending on the temperature, you will drain between 3.5-4 quarts. Install a new drain plug washer before re-installing the drain plug. You may find the drain plug washer to be stuck onto the pan - I had to use a painter's pole scraper and a mallet to remove the washer.
- There is a grey-colored dipstick marked "FZ" that is secured by a bolt. It is much easier to remove the bolt from under the car.
- To fill the transmission, some folks suggest removing the air intake tube to allow for more room to insert a funnel - but this is not necessary. There is a radiator hose that is adjacent to the air intake; the radiator hose is secured by a bracket. Remove the bracket (1 bolt) and this will allow you to move the hose around. By doing so, this step will give you barely enough room to squeeze a long funnel (18") into the space. I actually inserted a second funnel into the long funnel to allow for easier pouring.
- When refilling, start with 3.5 quarts. Start the engine and connect your scan tool to confirm the AT fluid temperature. The fluid level should be checked at 122F, which is warm (but not hot). Mazda only states that the fluid should be checked at a minimum of 122F, but does not specify a maximum temp. I would check/adjust the fluid level no higher than a few degrees above 122F; any AT fluid level will rise significantly once warmed up, so if you check the fluid level when the temp is too high, you may risk an under-fill.
- Check the fluid from underneath the car - this is the easiest way to access the dipstick. Do not try to remove the dipstick from the engine compartment. This particular vehicle took a total of 3.75 quarts for the drain and refill. If you do not have access to a scan tool, my experience was that the fluid temperature was at 122F within 1 minutes of start-up (but I drained the fluid when the car was still fairly hot and refilled right away, so your experience may vary).
Untitled by The Critic, on Flickr
This is a picture of the old fluid with 49,000 miles - it still looks very good. This transmission holds about 8 quarts and you will remove 40-50% with a drain and refill. The transmission does not have external cooler lines, so a "flush" is not possible. After the drain/refill, the fluid was a bit lighter, but did not turn blue.
Untitled by The Critic, on Flickr
Yes, the fluid is blue, but it turns light yellow after a few miles.
Untitled by The Critic, on Flickr
Confirming the fluid temperature before performing a level check - which is the ideal method for verifying the fluid level.