Mazda MZR engine owners list your oil

[sir slack-a-lot]

I've been using both GC and M1 0W20 in my Mazda 3 with the 2.0L. The GC has been the summer oil so far, the M1 the winter oil. I'm not totally convinced of the benefits of xW20 oils yet, but since it is so cold here in the winters, and the car does call for it, I've been going for that because of the better startup in the winter. I can't vouch for what seems to work better, as it's pretty hard to determine since I haven't done a UOA yet. The thicker GC does seem to affect fuel economy somewhat. Probably will try Esso XD3 next, or Redline 5W20, if I can find it!

Mike

 

[unDummy]

2.3L running Mobil1 0w20 and soon to be 5w20.
Also, grabbed some Redline 5w20 at advancedauto sale. Next change will get 25% redline with the rest Mobil1 0w or 5w 20's.

 

[1911]

quote:

---

Originally posted by sir slack-a-lot:
I've been using both GC and M1 0W20 in my Mazda 3 with the 2.0L. The GC has been the summer oil so far, the M1 the winter oil. I'm not totally convinced of the benefits of xW20 oils yet, but since it is so cold here in the winters, and the car does call for it, I've been going for that because of the better startup in the winter. I can't vouch for what seems to work better, as it's pretty hard to determine since I haven't done a UOA yet. The thicker GC does seem to affect fuel economy somewhat. Probably will try Esso XD3 next, or Redline 5W20, if I can find it!

Mike

---

Thanks Mike,

Are you in Saskatoon? I've considered the Redline 5W-20 too but it is pricey and I'll have to do some UOA reviews to see if it seems to give excellent results in this weight. This is relatively new engine design for Mazda and we can only hope at this point that it ends up being near bullet proof like Honda 4 cyclinder units have been.

Also, what type of oil filter have you (and others in this post) been using? I guess the 2.3 liter takes a cartridge type.

1911

 

[1911]

Hey Guys and Gals,

For those of you with either 2.0 litre or 2.3 litre Mazda MZR engines, what kind of lube are you using? Please list whether you have the 2.3 or 2.0 litre unit.

1911

 

[the_oil_dealer]

quote:

---

Originally posted by 1911:

quote:

---

Originally posted by sir slack-a-lot:
I've been using both GC and M1 0W20 in my Mazda 3 with the 2.0L. The GC has been the summer oil so far, the M1 the winter oil. I'm not totally convinced of the benefits of xW20 oils yet, but since it is so cold here in the winters, and the car does call for it, I've been going for that because of the better startup in the winter. I can't vouch for what seems to work better, as it's pretty hard to determine since I haven't done a UOA yet. The thicker GC does seem to affect fuel economy somewhat. Probably will try Esso XD3 next, or Redline 5W20, if I can find it!

Mike

---

Thanks Mike,

Are you in Saskatoon? I've considered the Redline 5W-20 too but it is pricey and I'll have to do some UOA reviews to see if it seems to give excellent results in this weight. This is relatively new engine design for Mazda and we can only hope at this point that it ends up being near bullet proof like Honda 4 cyclinder units have been.

Also, what type of oil filter have you (and others in this post) been using? I guess the 2.3 liter takes a cartridge type.

1911

---

Mazda has always made bullet-proof, yet unrecognized engines most natably in the 4-cyl F-blocks from the early 80's to the version you guys have now. All factory oversized rods, bearing journal diameters and meaty blocks. As long as the oil doesnt turn into jelly or its not really overheated, you cannot expect it to mechanically fail.

[ June 05, 2005, 01:06 AM: Message edited by: the_oil_dealer ]

 

[sir slack-a-lot]

Hi 1911,

Yep, I'm in Saskatoon, familiar with it at all? We seem to have quite a few folks from Texas up here in the summers to take advantage of the hunting and fishing lodges in the province. Haven't lived here for very long; only about a year and a half. I'm originally from Victoria BC, so these winters have been a huge adjustment!

Redline 5W20 is expensive, and sort of hard to justify. I have seen some great UOA's for the 2.0 and 2.3L engines with plain dino, but I've just stuck with syn because of the cold weather advantages it gives here. M1 0W20 is $8 CDN a litre here, which I think is just starting to be a total ripoff when I can pick up $2 a litre dinos like Havoline or something else. I have only seen Redline sold at Canadian Tire and Partsource, and they only carry 5W30 and 10W30, at about $11 CDN a litre.

Saskatoon seems to have a great source of GC. Each Canadian Tire store in town (2) has at least 50 liters of it, the 3 Partsource locations have probably about the same amount, and both Walmart locations have about 40 liters or so. I have a small batch of it (9 bottles). It's about $7 a litre, sometimes cheaper. I was thinking of XD3 0W30 syn down the line since I know there are a few members of BITOG in Sask that use it and get great results, and it's apparently just under $5 a litre.

As for oil filters, I've been using NAPA Gold filters as they are readily available and seem to be a quality piece. The 2.0L has a spin on filter. In some respects, I wish it had the cartridge type as the build quality on cartridge filters seems better, but I'll settle for what I've got. Heard a few stories on the 'net about how easy it is to damage the cartridge casing, but I don't know how true that necessarily is.

1911, do you happen to have a Mazda with either engine? I'm happy with it so far; doesn't seem as smooth or as revvy as a similar Honda engine, but I enjoy the power - wish I could have afforded the 2.3L!

Cheers,
Mike

 

[1911]

quote:

---

Originally posted by sir slack-a-lot:
Hi 1911,

Yep, I'm in Saskatoon, familiar with it at all? We seem to have quite a few folks from Texas up here in the summers to take advantage of the hunting and fishing lodges in the province. Haven't lived here for very long; only about a year and a half. I'm originally from Victoria BC, so these winters have been a huge adjustment!

As for oil filters, I've been using NAPA Gold filters as they are readily available and seem to be a quality piece. The 2.0L has a spin on filter. In some respects, I wish it had the cartridge type as the build quality on cartridge filters seems better, but I'll settle for what I've got. Heard a few stories on the 'net about how easy it is to damage the cartridge casing, but I don't know how true that necessarily is.

1911, do you happen to have a Mazda with either engine? I'm happy with it so far; doesn't seem as smooth or as revvy as a similar Honda engine, but I enjoy the power - wish I could have afforded the 2.3L!

Cheers,
Mike

---

Thanks Mike,

Yeah I spent a week in Saskatoon after being detained for 3 hours by some punk kid given way too much authority at airport Customs there. Other than customs, the people were friendly and the girls were beautiful no doubt. This was around 2000. They also detained other Yanks going there for the same mission (which actually brought money into the local economy). Even some of the locals said they sometimes flew into Alberta and drove over to avoid this very same Customs department.

I have the 2.0 (in the U.S 3i) model and have used M1-102 filters but am now a little hesitant due to Mr. BITOG himself (Bob) claiming these are extremely restrictive to start-up flow and Terry backing up the thisis that filters can contribute to prolonged start-up starvation in the upper end.

On the 2.3 litre unit, it's output figures are a little strange. Although 15% bigger, it fails to produce anywhere near a 15% increase in peak torque and power even at the same RPM's despite having variable valve timing added which is not on the 2.0 litre unit. On the Mazda 3 site, there are all kinds of complains about poor fuel mileage with this engine and auto-transmission combo including many under 20 mpg in mixed driving. You can almost get this with some large pick up trucks with V-8s.

1911

 

[1911]

1911 [/qb][/QUOTE]Mazda has always made bullet-proof, yet unrecognized engines most natably in the 4-cyl F-blocks from the early 80's to the version you guys have now. All factory oversized rods, bearing journal diameters and meaty blocks. As long as the oil doesnt turn into jelly or its not really overheated, you cannot expect it to mechanically fail. [/QB][/QUOTE]


Thank you for the info. I did however have a friend with an early eighties 626 (I think it was the original 626 type or maybe second generation). It had a 2.0 liter engine and blew head gaskets on a bi-monthly basis with massive steam clouds shooting 50 feet up into the air.

1911

 

[TomH]

05 Mazda 3 2.3 5 speed.

Used Mobil 1 10W30 at first change (it was free!), plan on using either Havoline or Castrol dino 10W30 for all future oil changes.

 

[surfstar]

1911

quote:

---

Mazda has always made bullet-proof, yet unrecognized engines most natably in the 4-cyl F-blocks from the early 80's to the version you guys have now. All factory oversized rods, bearing journal diameters and meaty blocks. As long as the oil doesnt turn into jelly or its not really overheated, you cannot expect it to mechanically fail.

---

These engines should last you guys well. I have a 1993 MX6 with the 2.0L FS 4cyl and it has 170k miles. Been running M1 10w30 since 80k when I bought it and it doesn't use any oil between changes and gets 32-35 MPG.

 

[mshu7]

I just bought a Mazda3 SP23 (special edition) with the 2.3L and 5-spd. transmission.

I only have ~950 miles on it so far, but when I change the oil, it will be Mobil 1 in whatever recommended flavor the manual states. As far as the cartridge oil filter situation, you can change it to a spin-on type assembly for about $50 if you do the work. All you have to do is buy the oil filter assembly unit that is on the 2.0L along with a gasket. It is the exact same dimensions as the cartridge assembly so it won't hurt anything. I have the parts sitting at home waiting to be changed on the first oil change. I will probably use Purolator filters from then on.

If anybody wants more details on the oil filter assembly change, let me know ([email protected]).

 

[1911]

quote:

---

Originally posted by sir slack-a-lot:
1911,

I'll watch out for the customs department! I'm heading down to Florida for vacation in a month so I'll be coming back from the States.

In regards to the filters, I'm in agreement about restrictive flow, especially in the winters. I've thought about going with a K&N in the winter months, but I'm unsure if the extra flow between that and a Napa Gold would really make much of a difference. From Bob's test where he ran without a filter, I'm pretty convinced that a filter really only protects you in situations where your engine is already in trouble anyways (ie spitting huge chunks off of something or other). Mind you, I'm not about to not run a filter!

About the fuel economy, I've heard much the same thing too. That combo of the auto and the 2.3L seems to be terrible in some situations! Less than 20 mpg in a compact car is pretty terrible. I have wondered if this is due to the design of the car, or people driving like they are boy racers; mind you, if they were racers, chances are that they wouldn't drive auto!

Cheers,
Mike

---

Thanks to you Sir Slack a Lot and all other posters here on this thread. I think the filter issue brought up by Bob BITOG himself is probably the most contraversial and significant thesis ever proposed on the BITOG sight as it flies directly in the face of conventional wisdom even from the automakers and filter makers themselves!!! So many legitimate questions have to be asked when confronted with said thesis. Such as:
1)If filters can easily hurt more than they help, why do automakers specify them?......or at least, why are there to be adhered to filter specifications rendered with your car with specific filter flow requirements just as there are specific API and viscosity oil quality requirements.
2) Shouldn't the automakers already know what Bob and Terry Dyson have proposed here if it is true?
3) Shouldn't the filter makers (the likes of Mobil 1)be aware that highly restictive filters could be damaging at start-up?
4) IS Jim Fitch (oil expert and big proponent of highly restrictive filters) smoking the Columbian Gold peace pipe?


All good questions. I wish an engineer familiar with the testing and specifying of lubes and filters from the automakers side would speak up on this critical topic.

1911

1911

 

[1911]

Sorry for the mispost above where I forgot to add a critical "no" in item #1 below. Please read again.

I think the filter issue brought up by Bob BITOG himself is probably the most contraversial and significant thesis ever proposed on the BITOG sight as it flies directly in the face of conventional wisdom even from the automakers and filter makers themselves!!! So many legitimate questions have to be asked when confronted with said thesis. Such as:
1)If filters can easily hurt more than they help, why do automakers specify them?......or at least, why are there no "must be adhered to" filter specifications rendered with your car with specific filter flow requirements just as there are specific API and viscosity oil quality requirements.
2) Shouldn't the automakers already know what Bob and Terry Dyson have proposed here if it is true?
3) Shouldn't the filter makers (the likes of Mobil 1)be aware that highly restictive filters could be damaging at start-up?
4) IS Jim Fitch (oil expert and big proponent of highly restrictive filters) smoking the Columbian Gold peace pipe?

All good questions. I wish an engineer familiar with the testing and specifying of lubes and filters from the automakers side would speak up on this critical topic.

1911

 

[sir slack-a-lot]

1911,

I'll watch out for the customs department! I'm heading down to Florida for vacation in a month so I'll be coming back from the States.

In regards to the filters, I'm in agreement about restrictive flow, especially in the winters. I've thought about going with a K&N in the winter months, but I'm unsure if the extra flow between that and a Napa Gold would really make much of a difference. From Bob's test where he ran without a filter, I'm pretty convinced that a filter really only protects you in situations where your engine is already in trouble anyways (ie spitting huge chunks off of something or other). Mind you, I'm not about to not run a filter!

About the fuel economy, I've heard much the same thing too. That combo of the auto and the 2.3L seems to be terrible in some situations! Less than 20 mpg in a compact car is pretty terrible. I have wondered if this is due to the design of the car, or people driving like they are boy racers; mind you, if they were racers, chances are that they wouldn't drive auto!

Cheers,
Mike

 

[sdude2k2000]

I'm running Mobil 1 5w30 Extended Performance right now (about 3,500mi into it right now) in my 2005 Mazda3 2.3L. Next OCI will be Royal Purple 5w20.

 

[totttalled]

German Castrol and Wix oil filters in my 2003 MP5.

 

[deven]

I have a Mazda3 2.3L and am using el cheapo exxon superflo 5w20 and the engine seems to love it. I was running Pennzoil 5w30 and there was a lot of rough idle in the engine but now with the 5w20 the engine is smooth as silk. You cant beat the price either. With rebates and sale prices at various place the oil is pretty much free!!!!

 

[sdude2k2000]

quote:

---

Originally posted by deven:
I have a Mazda3 2.3L and am using el cheapo exxon superflo 5w20 and the engine seems to love it. I was running Pennzoil 5w30 and there was a lot of rough idle in the engine but now with the 5w20 the engine is smooth as silk. You cant beat the price either. With rebates and sale prices at various place the oil is pretty much free!!!!

---

Superflo 5w20 is definitely geared towards smaller engines it seems. Honda's love it... and I'm sure your 3 will too. I just pointed someone on a different message board to it recently, and he too was happy with it.

 

[Woody]

I have a '03 Mazda6i with the 2.3L running Mobil1 0w20 and the oem cartridge filter which I buy at the dealer. The oem filter is actually a quality filter, good sturdy construction with evenly spaced pleats. I was miffed when I figured out it had this type of filter arrangement, but I’m actually liking the fact I don’t have to cut open a filter to inspect it every change. I have enough 0w20 for one more change and will probably go to Mobil1 5w20 EP and do 6 month oci.

 

[CDTMAZDA3]

I have an '05 Mazda 3i with the 2.0 L engine.

Changed the original oil and filter @ 1,400 miles using Motorcraft 5w-20 and a Purolator PureOne filter. For the 2nd oil change @ 4K miles used Havoline 5w30 and a Purolator Premium filter. For the third oil change @ 7K miles used Havoline 10w30 another PureOne filter. My car now has around 8,200 miles on it and I'll probably choose to change it again @ 10K miles. May start extending the o.c.i. to 4K miles afterwards since the engine s/b fairly well broken-in by then.

Although I may run 5w-20 in the winter months, just don't trust such a light oil in my area (central VA) during the summer where the mercury commonly hovers in the mid-to-high 90's.

Note: I haven't noticed any consistantly measurable difference in my fuel economy since switching to the 30 weight oils, and my overall average mpg to-date calculated using 100% of my fillups has been 36.9 mpg (with a high of 40 mpg and a low in the 32 mpg range for the first tank of gas during break-in). I've experienced no oil consumption to-date and after 3K miles the oil has only been honey-colored. May decide to do a UOA after 10K miles or so.

Note: I've used Mobil One in most of my vehicles over the past 20 years with good results. However, based on information found at this website I may be discontinuing this trend since I generally have changed the oil in my engines every 5K miles or less even when running synthethic. Based on what I know now, it just doesn't seem economical or necessary to use synthetics unless you're planning on extended mileage o.c.i.s.. However, I may still use Mobil one in some of my air-cooled equipent due to the synthetic's ability to endure higher oil temperatures without breaking down.