Manual Brake Flush Question

[The Critic]

I'll be doing a front brake pad and rotor replacement on a '06 Corolla on Saturday. While I do not own a pressure or vacuum bleeder, I still want to flush the system with new fluid. Therefore, I have to do it manually using the old-fashioned way.

Has anyone performed a brake system flush before using this method? How long did it take you? I need to do this in a parking lot, so if it takes too long, I may just take it to Sears and have them do it for $35.

Thanks.

 

[Matt89]

I recently did my 2006 Hondas (Civic and CRV) using the 'pump the brake pedal' method starting from the left front wheel and working around clockwise, which is the one specifically outlined in the service manual btw, and it took me about half an hour maybe? My wife kindly provided the foot power.

The only glitch was when I let the Master Cylinder run a little low and heard that horrible slurping sound of air going into the CRV's system! My wife was like "Is the pedal supposed to go all the way down?" For the third time in my self-inflicted auto maintenance career I thought it was tow truck time. Fortunately I just went 'around the horn' again and got the air out. Been working great for months.

Interestingly I found that in my case a vacuum bleeder (Mityvac) was worthless in this application. Drew so much air around the bleeder screw threads that you never knew if you had bled out the air or not, and it took forever. Pumping the pedal was very quick and easy! YMMMV

Note that I didn't do anything with the ABS/Master Cylinder...just bleed out at the wheels until the fluid was clear. Man the old stuff was nasty for only 2 years in there!

 

[Bob The Builder]

I'd venture to suggest just paying the 35 dollars. They use a machine that can literally pull out all the old stuff and replace it with the new. It's just so much easier and complete. I've done my vehicles both ways, but having a shop do it is way better from my perspective.

Hope I helped you make a decision. Good luck.

 

[daman]

X2...for $35 just take it in and your done...

 

[ZZman]

I wonder why you are flushing the lines on a 2006?

My answer is if you enjoy the feeling of doing it yourself and are handy than have at it. You do need 2 people.

 

[CharBaby]

Spend the $35 on a manual pump(Mity-Vac), and you'll have it forever. I love mine!... Mine is not the pressure bleeder, it's the vacuum bleeder. You will be glad you did and it's all you'll ever need.

CB

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Spend the $35 on a manual pump(Mity-Vac), and you'll have it forever. I love mine!... Mine is not the pressure bleeder, it's the vacuum bleeder. You will be glad you did and it's all you'll ever need.

CB

Thats true too, i own a Motive power bleeder(little more then
$35 tho)and it's the best tool i have invaluable,use it all the
time,,but if someone doesn't have anything i'd be allot of messing around to do it right.

 

[mazduh30]

I just have the shop bleed the ABS after I replace pads. Some vehicles need a scan tool to open valves etc.. I figure have them replace the fluids, heck they let me watch the process.

 

[FrozenPilot]

I replaced the fluid on my Mazda this spring with a Mityvac. Use petroleum jelly around the bleeder screws, works great. However, I'll need to convert the garden sprayer I have to apply pressure to the master reservoir for the clutch. Mityvac + vasoline did not work there!

Why on such a new car? Because I want it to brake/shift like new til the day its crushed!

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Matt89
I recently did my 2006 Hondas (Civic and CRV) using the 'pump the brake pedal' method starting from the left front wheel and working around clockwise, which is the one specifically outlined in the service manual btw, and it took me about half an hour maybe? My wife kindly provided the foot power.

How many times did you have to open and close the screw (on the reservoir furthest away from the MC) before clean fluid came out?

Thanks.

 

[wantin150]

Quite a few. The rear one takes the longest of course. I would say 15-20. My buddies truck took forever as he had not flushed the fluid in 8 years.

 

[tom slick]

poor man's easy one person brake bleeder:
(although it is still easier with two people)
fill your catch container with 1" of brake fluid
attach a long enough length of hose so that it goes all the way to the bottom of the container and the end is submersed in the brake fluid with the other end connected to the caliper.
open the bleeder far enough that fluid can run out
as you pump the brakes the long tube with the end in brake fluid will act like a check valve.
continue pumping the brakes keeping an eye on the master cyl's level
when new fluid is flowing out of the bleeder then close the bleeder and repeat on the next caliper.

trust me, it works, no special tools and the only cost is the tubing, which you need anyway to to any style of brake bleeding.

 

[artificialist]

I just this thing I bought from NAPA. It has a hose that slides over the bleeder screw, and at at the other end of the hose is a diaphragm that lets fluid out without letting air in. I point it into my used oil container, and hit the brakes several times. It is a great product for the $10 I spent on it.

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

If you plan to do this often and by yourself, you could get a set of Speed Bleeders. Pep Boys and the other parts chains usually carry them in the "HELP" line. Pep Boys seems to have a larger selection on the shelf.

I work pretty slowly, but I'd guess the process takes me less than an hour from start to clean-up on a full-size pickup. I use a 2-cycle measuring syringe to empty the reservoir and fill it with new fluid first. The pedal always feels better after a flush.

Edit: Speed Bleeders are probably $10-$12 per pair. Front and rear could take different sizes.

 

[Shaman]

artificialist, any idea on the name? Looking to take care of the brake fluid on my new to me Move with 50K KM on the clock

 

[bdcardinal]

i do a vacula flush. i have an auto filler, so the master never runs dry. when im done ill do a manual bleed at each of the 8 bleeders to get the pedal as hard as i want it. btw speed bleeders are amazing.

 

[cos]

Sears only wants $35? I'd say go for it!

As for bleeding yourself I'd say invest in the $35 MightyVac bleeder. It's a great tool, it really speeds up the job.

 

[mechtech2]

Suck out the old fluid with a turkey baster or similar [clean].
Replace with fresh fluid. Keep the cap loose and keep the reservoir FULL.
Go to each corner one at a time and loosen the bleeder. Just let it drain - a piece of vacuum hose and a coffee can will keep the mass minimized. This is a gravity bleed - do NOT touch the brake pedal with this method. Tighten the bleeder and go on to the next one.
By yourself, this is a great bleed and flush.

 

[STG]

Originally Posted By: Matt89

Interestingly I found that in my case a vacuum bleeder (Mityvac) was worthless in this application. Drew so much air around the bleeder screw threads that you never knew if you had bled out the air or not, and it took forever. Pumping the pedal was very quick and easy! YMMMV



Get a Motive Power Bleeder to push new fluid into the master cylinder and out of the bleeder screws. It works MUCH better than a vacuum pump. That said, you probably unscrewed the bleeder valves too far - that helps air enter around the threads and into your drain tube regardless of the method used: Pressure, vacuum or manual. Next time unscrew the bleeder valve just enough to get a flow of fluid. Be patient.

 

[doitmyself]

Shaman,

Here is the NAPA one person bleeder. It is essentially a tiny back flow valve that prevents air/liquid from going backwards towards the caliper. It is made by KD tools and can be found cheaper at other places. It helps to seal the bleeder threads, but I prefer brake compatible grease instead of vasalene.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NO...n+Brake+Bleeder

Most auto parts stores have them. Click on the picture to enlarge it (hmmmmm....wonder if that would work on that "certain part of the male anatomy" those infomercials advertise about...not that I watch those ads).

Critic, there's the on-going myth that one should NOT allow the brake pedal to depress 100% to the floor as this takes the master cylinder piston travel further than it normally goes and "crud" on the piston/shaft could damage the seal. True or not, I usually put a block of wood under the pedal to prevent it from bottoming out.

Have fun!