Makita polisher/buffer pads...
- Thread starter dblshock
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Have a few videos from Mike Phillips for you:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=mike+phillips+rotary+buffers
He's one of my favorites in terms of car detailing.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=mike+phillips+rotary+buffers
He's one of my favorites in terms of car detailing.
That's a big heavy buffer, I have a USA made Milwaukee that is similar and honestly its the one I use the least.
The weight get hard to hold up after awhile but you don't want the full weight of the machine sitting on the panel, I wouldn't want to learn how to buff with that machine, IMO its a disaster waiting to happen.
There are much smaller and lighter 6" units for less than 1/3 price that provide great results that are easy to handle and learn with.
I use an air buffer for big jobs because its super light and very controllable but for most jobs I use this one, its not flex quality but its not priced like flex either and it has held up fine seeing some heavy use. Believe me after you use that big buffer and then use this the Makita will probably never be used again.
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-9901-Electric-Polisher-Compact/dp/B004WIWC02
Look at the size difference.
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-9901-Electric-Polisher-Compact/dp/B004WIWC02
The weight get hard to hold up after awhile but you don't want the full weight of the machine sitting on the panel, I wouldn't want to learn how to buff with that machine, IMO its a disaster waiting to happen.
There are much smaller and lighter 6" units for less than 1/3 price that provide great results that are easy to handle and learn with.
I use an air buffer for big jobs because its super light and very controllable but for most jobs I use this one, its not flex quality but its not priced like flex either and it has held up fine seeing some heavy use. Believe me after you use that big buffer and then use this the Makita will probably never be used again.
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-9901-Electric-Polisher-Compact/dp/B004WIWC02
Look at the size difference.
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-9901-Electric-Polisher-Compact/dp/B004WIWC02
guess I never realized but this goes right into body shop skills and all the tools, equipment and training attached to that..see you can take this pretty far above turtle wax and elbow grease i'll just get some soft pads and go slow...maybe polish the headlights...but wow! really got great replies, thanks.
Get 3M waffle pads for that buffer, they don't build up heat and last a long time, they are a lot safer to use.
Before buffing a old panel (as opposed to newly painted always wash it well, I find dawn works best, dry it then clay bar to pull dirt out of the paint. The buffer will lift the dirt and spin it around causing bad scratches.
Color sanding and buffing is normal body shop work, no need for exotic name high priced products 3M compounds are an industry standard and can give a jewel like finish. Those and the 3M pads are my go to products.
This is the industry standard, 3M has tried to tweak it and play with it but the shops I know go back to this.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-05973-Rubbing-...ubbing+compound
Together with is you get a perfect halo/swirl free finish. You can get an ultra fine also which may be better for lacquer/single stage and soft clears like Subaru.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-05973-Rubbing-...ubbing+compound
These 2 pads are all you need. Add a blue one if using the ultra fine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYE2A/ref=psdc_15707091_t1_B00DOLJC2O
https://www.amazon.com/3M-PAD-FOAM-POLIS...t+polishing+pad
Before buffing a old panel (as opposed to newly painted always wash it well, I find dawn works best, dry it then clay bar to pull dirt out of the paint. The buffer will lift the dirt and spin it around causing bad scratches.
Color sanding and buffing is normal body shop work, no need for exotic name high priced products 3M compounds are an industry standard and can give a jewel like finish. Those and the 3M pads are my go to products.
This is the industry standard, 3M has tried to tweak it and play with it but the shops I know go back to this.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-05973-Rubbing-...ubbing+compound
Together with is you get a perfect halo/swirl free finish. You can get an ultra fine also which may be better for lacquer/single stage and soft clears like Subaru.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-05973-Rubbing-...ubbing+compound
These 2 pads are all you need. Add a blue one if using the ultra fine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYE2A/ref=psdc_15707091_t1_B00DOLJC2O
https://www.amazon.com/3M-PAD-FOAM-POLIS...t+polishing+pad
That's bad, they can also burn the paint right off an edge or raised body line in a heartbeat. Too much speed and pressure with too little compound or an unprepped pad and the worst offender a wool bonnet are the main culprits of this sort of damage.
Wool bonnets should not be used on clear coats and unless you have some real skills can be a paint ruining monster on any paint. Go off an edge the wrong way and it will take the paint right off it, they are the most unforgiving pad there is.
I learned to buff before plastic body electric buffers were on the market, it was all metal with a built in reservoir for compound and a push button to dispense it into the wool bonnet, it weighed about 12lb with fixed RPM. I got to be real good with it after destroying the paint on countless junkyard panels, everything after that has been a cakewalk.
It was similar to this one but the one I used was more round and it was old back then.
Wool bonnets should not be used on clear coats and unless you have some real skills can be a paint ruining monster on any paint. Go off an edge the wrong way and it will take the paint right off it, they are the most unforgiving pad there is.
I learned to buff before plastic body electric buffers were on the market, it was all metal with a built in reservoir for compound and a push button to dispense it into the wool bonnet, it weighed about 12lb with fixed RPM. I got to be real good with it after destroying the paint on countless junkyard panels, everything after that has been a cakewalk.
It was similar to this one but the one I used was more round and it was old back then.
Originally Posted By: dblshock
my buffer says 7" wondering if these 8" pads will fit?
the prior vid Satin posted the guy cleaned with some sort of glove? is that easier/better than clay?
You probably need a 7" urethane hook and loop backing pad for it but yes a 7" backing pad takes an 8-9" pad. Make sure you get it for a rotary not a DA.
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUF...WRYRWS46DPDYXD6
I am sure those glove things are easier but I use old school clay because I'm use to it and can get different grades of clay. I don't detail cars, I hardly even wash them and waxing is a once every blue moon because I despise cars in general (really, I rather not even own one and didn't for a long time when I rode year round). The Maytag man doesn't give a fu.. about using a washing machine either believe me.
I sand and buff mostly new paint that is either full panels or blend painted.
my buffer says 7" wondering if these 8" pads will fit?
the prior vid Satin posted the guy cleaned with some sort of glove? is that easier/better than clay?
You probably need a 7" urethane hook and loop backing pad for it but yes a 7" backing pad takes an 8-9" pad. Make sure you get it for a rotary not a DA.
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUF...WRYRWS46DPDYXD6
I am sure those glove things are easier but I use old school clay because I'm use to it and can get different grades of clay. I don't detail cars, I hardly even wash them and waxing is a once every blue moon because I despise cars in general (really, I rather not even own one and didn't for a long time when I rode year round). The Maytag man doesn't give a fu.. about using a washing machine either believe me.
..moving forward to cleaning..speed bar 2.0 a good choice or traditional clay?
MOTHERS SPEED BAR 2.0
MOTHERS SPEED BAR 2.0
^^ Yes sir, good choice! ^^
Plus Mothers is an excellent company to deal with.
Plus Mothers is an excellent company to deal with.
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It's really not clay even though they use it in their title of the product. So kind of confusing. But down in the description it gives better detail. This is a new alternative to the traditional clay. It's more of a rubber type material that you glide over the paint with car wash soap or detail spray. The nice thing about it is you don't need to kneed the clay and if you drop it you don't have to throw it away. Just dunk it in some soap water. This product is similar to Surf City Clayzilla at Walmart or the nanoskin sponges available online from Autogeek, etc...
You can pick out some of the gunk that traditional clay picks up. I normally cut a bar of clay into 3 pieces. So if a piece drops on the ground I only have to throw away a section of it. The clay will start to get darker as it loads up with dirt and grime. You can tell the difference comparing it to a new piece. You can use the older pieces on the wheels, door jambs, etc before tossing it. Store it in a baggy with some detail spray/car wash solution so it doesn't dry out. Sometimes I'll even put it in the microwave for 20 seconds or so. Then it will be easier to knead/fold.
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