M1 afe vs toyota 0w20

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Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I understand the point you're making and I've already said you may very well be right in particular with regard to the trinuclear MoS2 in low doses. I too have read about what your referring to in part. IIRC to get the mimimum wear no more than 200-250 ppm of moly is necessary. But I haven't heard anything from Infineum regarding major fuel economy claims and general reductions in the CoF of motor with the addition of their moly.
That's not to say it doesn't go hand in hand with wear reduction it's just not spelled out by them.
Also while Mobil uses a small amount of moly in their street oils they use a hugh amount in their race oils; no particular point, just an observation.

But getting back to the difference between M1 0W-20 and the Toyota Brand 0W-20. The M1 oil is actually a fairly old formulation developed back in 2004 and it hasn't changed much according to Mobil. I one sense it is more of a "true" 0W-20 oil since the emphasis is on extreme cold performance. It was only when they resurrected the oil after it was discontinued and relabeled AFE did it get a new lease on life.
The Toyota oil is more interested in an "ultra low viscosity" at less extreme temp's that most users will encounter.
The organic moly additive is what was used by the Japanese OEM's and as I mentioned I find it interesting EOM chose not to use their own sources of the additive or convince Toyota that their moly compound had the same benefit if indeed it does.

XOM has a white paper comparing the benefits and CoF of Trinuclear Moly to the Binuclear and Mononuclear Moly (AKA organic moly) additives that everyone else is using. There is a marked difference.
I suspect that Toyota may have a contract with Adeka Sakura-Lube to supply the additive package for the motor oils that they are selling, this would explain why their additive package is being used instead of Infineum's additive package.
I'm not saying that the 0w-20 oil Toyota is selling is not excellent oil, it IS excellent oil! But, one can't compare the ACTUAL PERFORMANCE of Toyota's 0w-20 to M1's 0w-20 based strictly upon moly numbers from a VOA or UOA.
 
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Originally Posted By: wag123

I'm not saying that the 0w-20 oil Toyota is selling is not excellent oil, it IS excellent oil! But, one can't compare the ACTUAL PERFORMANCE of Toyota's 0w-20 to M1's 0w-20 based strictly upon moly numbers from a VOA or UOA.


with respect to the relative additive packs of the two lubricants, I totally agree. I always find it a bit of a fool's errand to play amateur chemist and second-guess the additive packs of various oils. However, viscosity on start-up is different matter, and the Toyota 0W20 does have a pretty clear advantage in that department. That's the main reason I chose it over the M1 0W20.
 
Originally Posted By: JOD
Originally Posted By: wag123

I'm not saying that the 0w-20 oil Toyota is selling is not excellent oil, it IS excellent oil! But, one can't compare the ACTUAL PERFORMANCE of Toyota's 0w-20 to M1's 0w-20 based strictly upon moly numbers from a VOA or UOA.


with respect to the relative additive packs of the two lubricants, I totally agree. I always find it a bit of a fool's errand to play amateur chemist and second-guess the additive packs of various oils. However, viscosity on start-up is different matter, and the Toyota 0W20 does have a pretty clear advantage in that department. That's the main reason I chose it over the M1 0W20.

Yet it doesn't have superior numbers on startup. The MRV of the Mobil1 0w20 is lower, so for cold winters, the M1 0w20 is better. Horses for courses.
 
JOD is refering to start-up at more typical cold temp's and that's where the Toyota oil has the advantage being lighter at all temp's down to at least 0F.
At 32F the Toyota oil is about 35% lighter than M1.
 
Exactly--it's lower at startup "for me" (and, for most people). If I ever saw temperatures where the M1 was thinner, they'd be declaring a state of emergency and the nation guard would be called in...

Jeremy may actually see those temps pretty frequently in a cold winter, so in his location the M1 may be a better option.
 
There are usually about two weeks where I live where we never see anything above zero for the day.

It would be very interesting to see the curves from -30F to 32F.
 
Does the current 0w20 Toyota oil still have a VI of 214?

I like the Toyota 0w20 for it's intended purpose. It's the lightest oil you can buy.

The Mobil 1 would probably keep your rings cleaner though.
 
It's a good question.
That was the VI of the original Nippon Oil made version as confirmed in a VOA by Dyson.
The VOA by Dyson of the EOM made version came in at 202.
And Toyota are releasing the SN GF-5 version of the oil on Oct 1st, although I'm told it may take some time before we see it as they work through old stock.
I asked Toyota for the spec's on the new oil and they haven't gotten back to me yet but I'm not optimistic as ever high VI 20wt and 30wt oil I've seen has taken a VI hit with the SN version.
As soon as I find out what the Toyota GF-5 spec's are I will post them.

It doesn't get much play but there is the other Japanese 200 VI, high moly 0W-20 that's made in the States and that's the Idemitsu made Subaru 0W-20. At the present time it is still GF-4.
 
Just returned from our local Toyota dealer. Intended to purchase a case of Toyota 0W20 SM and was informed the
0W20 SM is no longer available at that dealer. Their stock
is now ALL 0W20 SN. Was able to pick up the last 2 cases
of 0W20 SM from another dealer. Price was 7.21/Qt If anyone
wants the "old" 0W20SM, better get it now.
 
Originally Posted By: CMMeadAM
Just returned from our local Toyota dealer. Intended to purchase a case of Toyota 0W20 SM and was informed the
0W20 SM is no longer available at that dealer. Their stock
is now ALL 0W20 SN. Was able to pick up the last 2 cases
of 0W20 SM from another dealer. Price was 7.21/Qt If anyone
wants the "old" 0W20SM, better get it now.

Who wants to volunteer for a VOA on the new stuff?
 
Honestly Blackstone isn't going tell us enough since they don't do a KV40 test therefore we won't know if the VI has been adversely affected or not.
One of the better labs is the one Terry Dyson uses (forget the name). Wearcheck is another that will do both KV100 and KV40 tests.
 
I sent an email to WearCheck in NCarolina to check on
their procedures......will be glad to check with the lab
Dyson uses if I can get the name........
 
I sure hope they don't mess up the new Toyota 0w20 with the SN version! If it ends up being a lot thicker of an oil I'll be very disappointed! I think one of the reasons I'm getting such stellar gas mileage from my Civic is because of how thin the SM Toyota 0w20 is that I'm running in it.
 
Originally Posted By: CMMeadAM
I sent an email to WearCheck in NCarolina to check on
their procedures......will be glad to check with the lab
Dyson uses if I can get the name........

Dyson uses MRT labs.
Not sure what the cost is direct, but through Dyson it is $60 (according to dparm).
 
Thanks for the info. A kit is on the way from WearCheck
in NCarolina. As soon as I get it, I'll send it back with the
Toyota 0W20SN. I requested KV40, KV 100 and TBN. I'll post the results as soon as I get them. Sure hope we don't see the same reduction of VI here as the other "0"
SN's.
 
I just wanted to say vs a 5w30 syn oil I ran.. the m1 afe 0w20 seems to have improved mpg by about 7-10%

Some of that is seasonal and engine break in... but the oil is also colder for my 7mile morning commute.

I was consistently UNDER 26mpg during combined highway/city driving. The majority being 7miles one way to work.. 9 hours apart. And the highway being 20mile trips.

I dont use the A/C much even in the summer it was only to cool the car down from being 140F in the parking lot.

Driving the same I am now getting 28+mpg combined.

recently averaged 28.7mpg over 650miles.(minus a 125mile towing interval@22mpg with utility trailer)


so to summarize 25.5(or lower) average with 5w30 during the 1000-3000mile period on odometer.
3000-4000mile period averaging over 28mpg with 0w20
(excluding towing results)

I'd love to try toyota 0w20 but with winter coming on the results wouldnt be remotely comparable.

Due to short tripping I will probably change at the severe oci this winter.. Maybe I'll try it anyway.
 
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+1 Your Kindness and Generosity is appreciated. Welcome to the BITOG family.

Originally Posted By: CMMeadAM
Thanks for the info. A kit is on the way from WearCheck
in NCarolina. As soon as I get it, I'll send it back with the
Toyota 0W20SN. I requested KV40, KV 100 and TBN. I'll post the results as soon as I get them. Sure hope we don't see the same reduction of VI here as the other "0"
SN's.
 
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