M1 15W50 EP is being discontinued.

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Originally Posted By: FrankN4
Look at the 100C cSt and the HTHS of those oils. NO way I would ever use them.


So what do you have to say to the people with over 250,000 trouble-free miles on their engines with nothing but 5w30 and 10w30 conventional oil?
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: FrankN4
Look at the 100C cSt and the HTHS of those oils. NO way I would ever use them.


So what do you have to say to the people with over 250,000 trouble-free miles on their engines with nothing but 5w30 and 10w30 conventional oil?


Not to be antagonistic, but I'D like to know the answer to this as well!
 
I would say congratulations, well done. What else would be appropriate to say?

There is no way I am going to use an oil with a 100C cSt of less than 12.5 or an HTHS of less than 3.5. In 49 years of owning automobiles, 45 of those years of owning new automobiles, never used anything other than straight 40, 20W-50, 5W-50, and now 15W-50, always got better than EPA mileage ever since that came out, always started immediately, never burned, never leaked, never seeped, never an engine noise, still running engines with 208,000 and 300,000 miles.

I have an engineering degree but I am not an internal combustion engine engineer. I do have a good friend that attended Wright State University with me back in the 1960's. He has a son that is an engineer for GM. He is working on a project for a high speed diesel engine. He explained that the viscosity of an oil that will give "THE BEST PROTECTION" has much to do with the circumference of the bearing journal, the peripheral velocity of the bearing journal(ask Doug Hillary about this) the speed of the piston in feet per minute, not just RPM, and other "STUFF." I know when I am running down the road at 72 MPH. 1700 RPM, I have a really good oil wedge in my bearings, my rings and cyl wall are doing great, all is well.

Right now, today, I believe the best 30 grade oil is Valvoline full synthetic MaxLife. It has a 100C cSt of 11.7(kinda low for a 1500-1700 rpm engine but would work in the Cavalier which often see 1800-2000 RPM) It has a HTHS of 3.6, that is good even for the Silverado engine. It has lots of FM which I consider very good. It would,"IN MY OPINION AND EXPERIENCE" be a marginal oil. Would it take my truck with camper crossing the Great Smokey Mts several times a year(twice already this year)to 200,000 miles? I have reasonable doubts. Will a light 15W-50 full synthetic do it? It has with other trucks I have owned so I have full confidence that it will.
(If Valvoline were to keep everything they now have about their 10w30 full synthetic MaxLife the same as it now is but use a base oil that brought the 100C cSt to 12.49, I would likely use it.)

I would like to think that I will arrive at 250,000-300,000 miles with the same wear that everyone else has at about 50,000-75,000. That is more interesting to me than bowling a 300 game, shooting a par 72 at 36, or whatever. Also my kids and now my grandkids are in that camper crossing the mountains. I will stack the odds in my favor.
 
Frank - I found it interesting that you linked suitable viscosity with engine RPM usage in this passage, "Right now, today, I believe the best 30 grade oil is Valvoline full synthetic MaxLife. It has a 100C cSt of 11.7(kinda low for a 1500-1700 rpm engine but would work in the Cavalier which often see 1800-2000 RPM) It has a HTHS of 3.6, that is good even for the Silverado engine."

So by your logic, someone like me whose engine regularly sees 4000-5000 rpms (2006 Civic SI) and cruises at 3500-4000 rpms regularly, a Xw30 would be perfectly suitable?

Joe

P.s. You've actually given me alot to think about in regards to running a 5w50 in my LGT during the summer.
 
Just got a reply from Mobil about the 15W50 EP:

Yes, Mobil 1 15W-50 (both versions) will remain in production. You can find another> location using the website tool. Here's a link.

Maybe they changed their minds? Yay!!!!!!!!! :^)
 
wonder why nascar is qualifying with 0w30 syns.... They a bunch of hill billy'ums. You only need enough HTHS to keep the 2 metal parts apart. Anything more is "OVER-ENGINEERING". Engineering in itself is a give and take. If I need to meet a 130mph wind code for a house, and can meet it with 1/2" plywood & 8" concrete walls. Why would I build it ouf of 3/4" pllywood & 16" concrete walls? (YOU WOULDN'T!!!) The thicker oil just takes more abuse, but consumes more fuel and can cause more wear on cold starts. With todays engines, 1998+, Sticking with the recomended oil is good. Going thinner or thicker doesn't warrant the risk or reasoning for most apps. If you want more peace of mind, run a Synthetic and change it more often. best of both worlds. Diesels call for a 15w40 b/c in general those vehicles are fleet trucks, over worked and unter maintanced. And the diesel has a lot of shear (force) on the POWERSTROKE. I bet most new diesel trucks could run fine with 5w30 syn's if not towing a lot and maintanced well.
 
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There will always be a need for a 15W/50 or even 20W/50. May not always be the best choice, but a choice nontheless. A lot of classic cars benefit from these oils not to mention the many Harley folks using Mobil 1 15W/50 car oil in their bikes with fine results...at less cost than the V-twin versions.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Just got a reply from Mobil about the 15W50 EP:

Yes, Mobil 1 15W-50 (both versions) will remain in production. You can find another> location using the website tool. Here's a link.

Maybe they changed their minds? Yay!!!!!!!!! :^)

You didn't get a response from Mobil, you got a response from one Mobil employee who may, or may not, know what he/she is talking about. Did you ask them why it says on the website that Mobil 1 15W-50 EP is being discontinued?
 
Originally Posted By: FrankN4
I would say congratulations, well done. What else would be appropriate to say?

There is no way I am going to use an oil with a 100C cSt of less than 12.5 or an HTHS of less than 3.5. In 49 years of owning automobiles, 45 of those years of owning new automobiles, never used anything other than straight 40, 20W-50, 5W-50, and now 15W-50, always got better than EPA mileage ever since that came out, always started immediately, never burned, never leaked, never seeped, never an engine noise, still running engines with 208,000 and 300,000 miles.

I have an engineering degree but I am not an internal combustion engine engineer. I do have a good friend that attended Wright State University with me back in the 1960's. He has a son that is an engineer for GM. He is working on a project for a high speed diesel engine. He explained that the viscosity of an oil that will give "THE BEST PROTECTION" has much to do with the circumference of the bearing journal, the peripheral velocity of the bearing journal(ask Doug Hillary about this) the speed of the piston in feet per minute, not just RPM, and other "STUFF." I know when I am running down the road at 72 MPH. 1700 RPM, I have a really good oil wedge in my bearings, my rings and cyl wall are doing great, all is well.

Right now, today, I believe the best 30 grade oil is Valvoline full synthetic MaxLife. It has a 100C cSt of 11.7(kinda low for a 1500-1700 rpm engine but would work in the Cavalier which often see 1800-2000 RPM) It has a HTHS of 3.6, that is good even for the Silverado engine. It has lots of FM which I consider very good. It would,"IN MY OPINION AND EXPERIENCE" be a marginal oil. Would it take my truck with camper crossing the Great Smokey Mts several times a year(twice already this year)to 200,000 miles? I have reasonable doubts. Will a light 15W-50 full synthetic do it? It has with other trucks I have owned so I have full confidence that it will.
(If Valvoline were to keep everything they now have about their 10w30 full synthetic MaxLife the same as it now is but use a base oil that brought the 100C cSt to 12.49, I would likely use it.)

I would like to think that I will arrive at 250,000-300,000 miles with the same wear that everyone else has at about 50,000-75,000. That is more interesting to me than bowling a 300 game, shooting a par 72 at 36, or whatever. Also my kids and now my grandkids are in that camper crossing the mountains. I will stack the odds in my favor.



Hey Frank,are you,GN,and I the only members of the 50 wt club here?
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Originally Posted By: The Critic
I'm surprised that it didn't happen sooner. I can't imagine the demand for a long drain 15w-50 (or even a normal 15w-50) to be that high. I mean, which OEM in the last 10 years specified a 15w-50?


+1. Critic is right.
 
Originally Posted By: FrankN4
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Originally Posted By: The Critic
I'm surprised that it didn't happen sooner. I can't imagine the demand for a long drain 15w-50 (or even a normal 15w-50) to be that high. I mean, which OEM in the last 10 years specified a 15w-50?


Every car FrankN4 drives.


Yeah. And the only reason I use it is because of the better than EPA gas mileage,
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200,000 to 300,000 mile engine life,
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starts before I can release the key,
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no leak, no seep, no use,
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works in any engine of any size,
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no engine noise, no engine problems of any kind. Other than that...
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I'll second that. I've never put 200,000 miles on an engine with it but I've been using it for 13 years. I have no doubt if I had the need to drive more I would get 200,000 out of an engine using it.

I'll be very sorry to see it go. I figured it would happen eventually. It's just too good an oil for it's intended purpose. Hot running engines in hot weather although it seems to work just fine down to 30 degrees or so.
 
Originally Posted By: JoeFromPA
Frank - I found it interesting that you linked suitable viscosity with engine RPM usage in this passage, "Right now, today, I believe the best 30 grade oil is Valvoline full synthetic MaxLife. It has a 100C cSt of 11.7(kinda low for a 1500-1700 rpm engine but would work in the Cavalier which often see 1800-2000 RPM) It has a HTHS of 3.6, that is good even for the Silverado engine."

So by your logic, someone like me whose engine regularly sees 4000-5000 rpms (2006 Civic SI) and cruises at 3500-4000 rpms regularly, a Xw30 would be perfectly suitable?

Joe

P.s. You've actually given me alot to think about in regards to running a 5w50 in my LGT during the summer.


I will try to answer your question in a way that I hope you understand. My explanations are not always crystal clear.
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I also suggest you do a search on Molakule and Doug Hillary. Search for them under HDEO also. Do a Google on lubrication engineering and a Yahoo on tribology.

I am going to assume(yeah, I know) that your engine runs at "high" RPM but not at high load. By that I mean you never lug the engine, you know how and when to shift or have an automatic transmission. You never load the engine by pulling a camper, haul rocks, and like. When you do load the engine, it is because you drag race from traffic lights, take it to red line passing that fool in front of you, and just enjoying a high rev engine.
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(I had a bike that was very sweet at 10,000 RPM and would play with 12,000)

You also have a very good, well designed, pressurized lubrication system. This pressure system delivers, even in a worse case scenario, adequate oil volume to your bearing/journal. This volume means more oil flow, more exchange, therefore cooler oil, which means the oil doesn't thin as much in the bearing/journal. Now, the lubricant film, and wedge, doesn't depend to such a greater degree on the pumping action of the rotating journal alone. Add to this the fact that your journal "IS" operating at a peripheral velocity that pumps very well. This gives you good oil flow, good oil film, good oil wedge, good lubrication.
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Now, the main problems you have to worry about is load and hot spots. HTHS, Friction Modifiers, Anti Wear agents help here. Full synthetic addresses hot spots to a greater degree. I PERSONALLY LIKE AN HTHS OF 3.5+ AND ACTUALLY USE A HTHS OF 4.5. Is that overkill? You bet your bippy it is.
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Quote:
So by your logic, someone like me whose engine regularly sees 4000-5000 rpms (2006 Civic SI) and cruises at 3500-4000 rpms regularly, a Xw30 would be perfectly suitable?


The answer is yes, BUT IT IS NOT BY MY LOGIC. This is where you need to do the search for posts by Molakule, Doug Hillary, and Google for lubrication engineering, Yahoo for tribology. I have used 15W-50 in a Mitsubishi I4, KIA I4, Dae Woo I4, all higher RPM engines and with outstanding results. Overkill, probably. I used it in my daughter's Camaro which would see 3,500 RPM, but not often.(I hope)

I no longer pull a trailer because arthur won't let me back it up well enough and my wife doesn't like to drive with it.
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We came up with a full camper pack for our Silverado. When I have that pack, my wife, grand kids, crossing the Great Smokey Mts from Maggie Valley to Cherokee and then Cherokee to Gatlinburg, in tow/haul mode, pulling 1600 up to 2000, oil gets hot. I have enough cSt, HTHS, too keep the bearings happy. It has kept the bearings happy in my old pickup for 301,000 miles with camper pack and trailer, and it has made that trip dozens of times, and it is still a daily driver. Could use a coat of paint and about 25 pounds of bondo.
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MY WAY IS BY NO MEANS THE ONLY WAY. Based upon 45 years of getting to break in new engines and take them to trade/sell, getting to talk to an engine design engineer, getting to talk to tribologist and inter-net communicate with tribologist, having a close friend that is a professor of chemistry, the temperature/terrain where I drive and where I drive to, the use of my vehicles, and more convince me that mine is is the best way FOR ME.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: FrankN4
I would say congratulations, well done. What else would be appropriate to say?

There is no way I am going to use an oil with a 100C cSt of less than 12.5 or an HTHS of less than 3.5. In 49 years of owning automobiles, 45 of those years of owning new automobiles, never used anything other than straight 40, 20W-50, 5W-50, and now 15W-50, always got better than EPA mileage ever since that came out, always started immediately, never burned, never leaked, never seeped, never an engine noise, still running engines with 208,000 and 300,000 miles.

I have an engineering degree but I am not an internal combustion engine engineer. I do have a good friend that attended Wright State University with me back in the 1960's. He has a son that is an engineer for GM. He is working on a project for a high speed diesel engine. He explained that the viscosity of an oil that will give "THE BEST PROTECTION" has much to do with the circumference of the bearing journal, the peripheral velocity of the bearing journal(ask Doug Hillary about this) the speed of the piston in feet per minute, not just RPM, and other "STUFF." I know when I am running down the road at 72 MPH. 1700 RPM, I have a really good oil wedge in my bearings, my rings and cyl wall are doing great, all is well.

Right now, today, I believe the best 30 grade oil is Valvoline full synthetic MaxLife. It has a 100C cSt of 11.7(kinda low for a 1500-1700 rpm engine but would work in the Cavalier which often see 1800-2000 RPM) It has a HTHS of 3.6, that is good even for the Silverado engine. It has lots of FM which I consider very good. It would,"IN MY OPINION AND EXPERIENCE" be a marginal oil. Would it take my truck with camper crossing the Great Smokey Mts several times a year(twice already this year)to 200,000 miles? I have reasonable doubts. Will a light 15W-50 full synthetic do it? It has with other trucks I have owned so I have full confidence that it will.
(If Valvoline were to keep everything they now have about their 10w30 full synthetic MaxLife the same as it now is but use a base oil that brought the 100C cSt to 12.49, I would likely use it.)

I would like to think that I will arrive at 250,000-300,000 miles with the same wear that everyone else has at about 50,000-75,000. That is more interesting to me than bowling a 300 game, shooting a par 72 at 36, or whatever. Also my kids and now my grandkids are in that camper crossing the mountains. I will stack the odds in my favor.



Hey Frank,are you,GN,and I the only members of the 50 wt club here?
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I guess we should be thankful that we can use the products of our choice and that we are responsible for our decisions.
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I don't want anyone else making decisions for me as long as I am mentally capable(that might be a loophole right there)
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Originally Posted By: crinkles
Frank is my hero. He is making me thik to use 5w-50 M1.


I used Castrol Syntec 5W-50 for 2 years(1988-1990) in my Toyota pickup, daughter's Corsica, and wife's VW Fox. I do not know what the specks were back then, but it just behaved like it was a little on the thin side.
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Of course, I came to Syntec 5W-50 from Castrol convention dino 20W-50 and I am sure it was thin compared to that.
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You are not alone, Frank! There are many of us on BITOG that use HDEO and 15W50 in passenger cars. My ’91 Miata went 250,000 mi on M1 15W50 with minimal wear in Texas (wear verified by visual and micrometer inspection of cam lobes, cam bearings, cam followers). In my younger days, all my Detroit iron in Michigan got Castrol 20W50, with no engine failures.

My newer 2003 Impreza WRX gets HDEO in a minimum vis of 5W40. Spend some time on NASIOC, and you will find many engines with spun bearings using the factory specified 5W30. I am not convinced that factory specified oil grade is entirely engineering related. I believe that other factors, like EPA mileage and CAFE also drive factory specified oil grades.

Some of us “heavy oil” users are relatively quiet on BITOG because we are tired of continually defending our position from attack by the “lighter is better” crowd.

Props to you for speaking your mind and not pulling any punches!
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I've used M-1 15W-50 on the Plymouth flathead 6 since draining the break-in oil after rebuilding the engine. The Dodge flathead pickup will get the same oil after break-in drain. Oil pressure is great after long highway runs in Summer Texas heat. Our V-6 Camry (quarter million miles) gets 10W-40 M-1--uses nowhere near 1/2 qt. of oil w/6,000 mile OCI. The 100K 4.7L 4WD Tundra is on Delvac-1 5W-40. When the little Tacoma 2.7L 4WD gets beyond the 60K powertrain warranty, I'll likely go to the D-1 on it. Even now, 'tho it calls for 0W/5W-20, I'm just too old fashioned to go that light...I'm using 0W-30.
My logic (might be flawed, but it's mine) is that heavier oil, when heated, produces higher oil pressure & that gives my engines more protection, especially when pulling a trailer, or lugging...which I confess, I sometimes do.
BTW, the 6 volt 2 older vehicles have never failed to start in 10 degree weather, even when left outside, on the 15W-50.
 
Mobil 1 15W50 seems to flow better at cold temps than Mineral oils of the same claimed viscosity, but I found that it made cold starting difficult (actually impossible) at - 20 or below in my cars. And of course I see that many times each year, and do not want to spend the day having my car towed when there is snowskiing to be done!! And, we recorded an offical -40 this winter here in Eastern Iowa and my daily driver started, sitting outside, using Mobil 1 0W20. (My local true-believer-in thicker-oil buddy did not make it to work that day, he had "bad gas" in both cars!)

My summer schedule has me towing 4,880 lbs 4 days a week
as posted on BITOG before, using a 3.1 litre minivan that has now reached 250 K miles. Certainly a severe towing schedule, sometimes 800 miles on a weekend to do waterskishows all over the midwest. And, yes the 3.1 uses Mobil 1 0W20, changed regularly (Ouch, every 20 k miles) and burns no oil at all and seems like new.

Now, my question is:
How can anyone promote as gospel either option (0W20 or 15W50) unless he runs both types under similar conditions until the motor wears out. THEN, you know which is better.

IS this not what our manufacturers and oil research facilities do? And, If you can beat EPA Mileage with 15W50, then would you not do even better with 5W30 or 0W20?

And, how much wood could a wood chuck chuck.........
 
I think where you live has a lot more to do with getting away with a 15W-50 or a 20W-50 than we think. Someone who lives where it rarely gets below 30*F vs someone who see's single digit and below zero *F temps is not going to have the luck that our friends in the warmer climates have with heavier grade oils.

I ran 15W-50 Mobil 1 for about 9 months in my E-150. When winter came around boy was I sorry I was running that thick an oil. I live on Long Island, I can only imagine how someone in Montana or Canada would do with it in the dead of winter. As always YMMV
 
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