M1 0W-40 and small engines

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I read other threads, and the use of M1 0W-40 seems accepted. I have a ATV that calls for that weight, and I am attempting to simplify the oil collection by using the same oil in a riding mower, generator, and few other things. An thoughts on that? Good or bad? Thanks in advance.
 
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Depends on if its a shared sump with the engine and clutch. If it is shared, do not use a regular PCMO as the friction modifiers will cause the clutch to slip. JASO MA is the most common spec, some HDEO meet that spec.
 
Originally Posted By: volk06
Depends on if its a shared sump with the engine and clutch. If it is shared, do not use a regular PCMO as the friction modifiers will cause the clutch to slip. JASO MA is the most common spec, some HDEO meet that spec.


No shared sumps to my knowledge. Just a handful of double and single cylinder B&S motors in different applications.
 
I have considered the Rotella T-6 as well. M1 vs. T-6, which is a "truer" synthetic?
 
Originally Posted By: Scott88
I have considered the Rotella T-6 as well. M1 vs. T-6, which is a "truer" synthetic?


I don't think anyone uses PAO/Ester anymore.
 
Originally Posted By: Scott88
Originally Posted By: volk06
Depends on if its a shared sump with the engine and clutch. If it is shared, do not use a regular PCMO as the friction modifiers will cause the clutch to slip. JASO MA is the most common spec, some HDEO meet that spec.


No shared sumps to my knowledge. Just a handful of double and single cylinder B&S motors in different applications.


Quite a few ATVs utilize a wet clutch that shared the engine oil. Double check that before dumping in M1 0w-40. If its not a shared one you're in the clear. I use 0w-40 on a lot of my OPE engines but not ATVs, those are a different animal.
 
My john Deere F510 has no problem with it. It also is what the hydraulics use. It stayed so good looking I doubled my OCI on it to once every two years, ~100 hrs.
 
Originally Posted By: Scott88
I have considered the Rotella T-6 as well. M1 vs. T-6, which is a "truer" synthetic?


Benefit is T6 will work in shared sump so it's more of a universal OPE oil.
 
Good to know. There shouldn't be a shared sump in a '98 Sportsman 500. Been using M1 0W-40 in it since I bought it in '09. The manual calls for a synthetic of that viscosity. I figured the ATV would be the pickiest of all the machines when it came to oil.
 
No shared sump on a Sportsman, it's a belt driven CVT just like a snowmobile. M1 0W-40 is a great choice, and so is T6.
 
I use it in my Dad's John Deere tractor with a 26hp liquid cooled Kawasaki, his 2012 Polaris Sportsman and a Subaru generator. Makes it simple to use one oil, especially since he lives an hour away. Seems to work well.
 
Originally Posted By: Scott88
I have considered the Rotella T-6 as well. M1 vs. T-6, which is a "truer" synthetic?

I believe that both are now GTL (Gas to Liquid) and not PAO or Ester, so the answer is neither. I do use T6 is some of my OPE, for what it is worth.
 
Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
Originally Posted By: Scott88
I have considered the Rotella T-6 as well. M1 vs. T-6, which is a "truer" synthetic?

I believe that both are now GTL (Gas to Liquid) and not PAO or Ester, so the answer is neither. I do use T6 is some of my OPE, for what it is worth.


Good info, I appreciate that.
 
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