Luvin' the tcw3

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At that does you won't have any problems at all. It's when you increase the dose from there where you could run into problems.
 
After a few tanks of nothing in the fuel to purge the system of the Lucas I had been using I filled up yesterday with my regular Shell fuel and I put in a 500:1 ratio of Valvoline TCW3 rated 2-stroke oil.

So far the engine is responding the same as with the Lucas. I have only driven about 100km since putting it in so I will keep you posted.
 
Just recently I came across the thread Sarge posted on LS1.com and I've been reading quite a lot about it here.
This week I will be doing a fuel system cleanse on two Subarus ('95 w/ 160K & '03 w/ 80K) with Techron, followed by adding TC-W3 to the fuel.
Simply by reading all of the data gathered, this seems to be an excellent additive & I'm very enthused about it.
 
Originally Posted By: Aquaticentipede
Just recently I came across the thread Sarge posted on LS1.com and I've been reading quite a lot about it here.
This week I will be doing a fuel system cleanse on two Subarus ('95 w/ 160K & '03 w/ 80K) with Techron, followed by adding TC-W3 to the fuel.
Simply by reading all of the data gathered, this seems to be an excellent additive & I'm very enthused about it.


Sounds like a plan, make sure you use a good FI cleaner first, then I like to run a tank of gas in the car w/o any thing before I start with MMO or TCW-3, in your case. The TCW-3 used in the suggested dose of 500:1 should work well. I wouldn't suggest going over that amount. Good luck and keep us informed!

Welcome to BITOG!
 
So far it is running great in my truck... Just concerned about the Cat's is all. But I keep being told by others on here that at 500:1 there is nothing to worry about.
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Fingers crossed!
 
There's literally nothing in it to hurt the cats, the phosphorus or whatever that was in mmo that had you worried should have been more of a concern than tcw3. I stopped running any additives in my truck. I thought that the exhaust smelled good with mmo, good ole e10 Shell regular is heavenly now that my carb is rebuilt and not dumping fuel in. Mmo masked the stank of the badly tuned motor so my clothes wouldn't reak. I'll run a few more weeks with pure fuel as a baseline then go to tcw3.
 
I changed all 4 oxygen sensors on my car today, and they have the typical slight ashy look to them, but none were oily and none were carboned up. I'd been using TC-W3 in the fuel for about 15,000 miles.
 
I pulled the O2 sensor on my 88 E-150 the sensor has about 40K on it, looked perfect. The engine was being fed MMO via the Inverse Oiler its whole life. I just disconnected the Inverse oiler because it is no longer metering the oil flow properly. I started adding MMO to the gas tank now. I will try and rebuild the Inverse Oiler.
 
TCW3 is made to reduce octane loss that is more apparent with regular 2 stroke oil.
But with our very reduced levels of use, I don't think either will affect the octane enough to be measured.
 
Started running Evinrude Johnson XD-30.

The only change so far (I know I just stared) is the smell of the exhaust. Not unpleasant it's just.... there.

Using 3 oz per 10 gallons.. For you experts does this sound about right?

I am going to try the blend XD-50 next bottle.

XD50 Perfomanced enhanced sythetic blend oil that meets the spedific demands of direct injection and water cooled 2-cycle outboard engines that specify TC-W3 certified oils. - Contains CarbX combustion cleaner to keep carbon in suspension and away from critical components - Protects against wear with superior lubricity - Reduces smoke for cleaner operation Use XD50 in high load and performance applications for greater dependability, reliability, and reduced maintenance.
 
Two-Stroke Oil Ratings

Even today, there continues to be a huge number of questions regarding which oil is the one to use, which oil is better than another, and which oil is good enough. Let’s review the two-stroke lubricant standards; API TC; TCW; TC-W2; TC-W3; JASO FC; and ISO-L-EGD.

Non-racing two-stroke oils are usually given ratings from the API (American Petroleum Institute) “TCâ€, the BIA (Boating Industry Association) “TC-W†and currently the NMMA (National Marine Manufacturers Association) “TC-W2 and TC-W3â€. The TC, TC-W and TCW2 standards are not current and do not meet the standards of today’s performance engines.

For a lubricant to receive one of these ratings it must pass certain levels of cleanliness and film strength. The lubricant is run at ratios up to 150:1 for specified times and loads. The engine is then examined for carbon deposits and for bearing and cylinder wear. If it meets the test criteria, the lubricant passes.

The Japanese Automobile Manufacturers Organization (JASO) developed a series of tests aimed at presenting more real-world conditions that a lubricant used in a motorcycle, snowmobile, ATV or PWC would encounter in use by consumers. They test for exhaust valve cleanliness, lubricity, exhaust smoke/blocking and initial torque. The highest JASO standard is FC. These tests are very difficult to pass and are a better indicator of a lubricants level of protection and performance that TC-W3 in non-marine applications.

European engine manufacturers tested TC-W3 and JASO lubricants and determined that their engines needed a cleaner lubricant and one that would withstand higher heat conditions. They established the ISO international standards for two stroke engine lubricants. Their first standard, ISO-L-EGB was comparable to the JASO FB standard. They later developed the ISO-L-EGC which is similar to the JASO FC rating.

They felt they needed an even tougher standard for the newest generation of performance two stroke engines. The ISO-L-EGD+ was created to establish a higher standard of detergency and ability to withstand higher levels of heat. The new test runs for 3 hours vs 1 hour for the previous test.

If a lubricant is certified ISO-L-EGD+ it has passed the most stringent tests set by American, Japanese and European engine manufacturers. Polaris recommends TC-W3 lubricants, Yamaha JASO FC and Ski-Doo/Sea-Doo requires ISO-L-EDG+ lubricants.

Examine the oil bottle of any oil in question and see what the highest level of certification is. It is generally accepted that if you use a lubricant that meets the ISO-L-EGD+ standard in your new snowmobile you will provide certified warranty compliance and protection.
 
Well the first tank of fuel is through my Santa Fe and I got the worst fuel economy I ever have using the 500:1 ratio of TCW3 rated 2-Stroke oil (Valvoline).

I averaged 13.3L/100KM versus my usual 10L/100KM
frown.gif


I will try a 1000:1 ratio next as maybe the 500:1 is too much for my application.
 
I fooled around with TCW-3 for a little while and had similar results. I didn't report about it because I didn't really use it long enough, it was more hit or miss. I'm still getting the best results with MMO. I do have some more TCW-3 and will play around with it again.
 
Most likely I just haven't found the right ratio for my application. Not talking bad about TCW3 oils just posting my real world experience is all.

Thanks for confirming it D.
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Originally Posted By: StevieC
Well the first tank of fuel is through my Santa Fe and I got the worst fuel economy I ever have using the 500:1 ratio of TCW3 rated 2-Stroke oil (Valvoline).

I averaged 13.3L/100KM versus my usual 10L/100KM
frown.gif


I will try a 1000:1 ratio next as maybe the 500:1 is too much for my application.


StevieC, Sarge recommends 1 ounce per 5 gallons. He says that is the perfect ratio.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
If my math is correct then that would be 3.8oz for my 72 litre tank.

3.78L = 1 US Gallon



Yes, that's it. I don't know if the dose has to be extremely accurate, but he says too much will make your engine run worse, and too little will not have any effect.
 
That's good to know because I added 5.13 ounces (152 ML) following the 500:1 ratio.

I think I might just half it and then keep working up more and more till I find the sweet spot. I can do this using my ScanGauge.

I find that I need less MMO and Lucas as recommended on the bottles of these products so I might still be "over" with 3.8oz.
 
With the cheap Super Tech brand I recommend 500:1, since it has more solvents in it than oil, but with other name brands I recommend 640:1

The Pennzoil Full Synthetic stuff is so stout that I think we might even be able to cut back to 750:1
 
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