I just spray them with PB Blaster, work it, and shake it dry.
Lubing your Ratchets?
- Thread starter maverickfhs
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Thanks all, I have tried ATF but mechanism was still not smooth. It was definitely better, so I pulled them apart and lubed them with super lube.
They are very smooth and feels like brand new
BTW, I wasn't able to remove small gear not sure if there's a trick for it? If anyone knows, it's Stanley 91-929 CRV?
Thanks for the help.
Could it be you are associating the cushioning effect of the thicker lube on parts with smoothness?
I have some 36T ratchets that are downright loud but smooth as glass. Packing them up with grease will make them silent but could also induce slippage of the mechanism.
ATF does not provide much "cushioning" effect but it does lube and keep the mechanism working properly.
Thanks all, I have tried ATF but mechanism was still not smooth. It was definitely better, so I pulled them apart and lubed them with super lube.
They are very smooth and feels like brand new
BTW, I wasn't able to remove small gear not sure if there's a trick for it? If anyone knows, it's Stanley 91-929 CRV?
Thanks for the help.
Could it be you are associating the cushioning effect of the thicker lube on parts with smoothness?
I have some 36T ratchets that are downright loud but smooth as glass. Packing them up with grease will make them silent but could also induce slippage of the mechanism.
ATF does not provide much "cushioning" effect but it does lube and keep the mechanism working properly.
I have 3 older Craftsman ratchets that hardly functioned anymore, 2 of which were my grandfathers (one was late 70's and the other late 80's). I remember Trav posting soaking them in ATF to get them working again and regular maintenance. Had almost a quart of fluid left over from the Expedition that I wasn't going to use anymore, so in an old coffee can with the 3 ratchets it went. To my surprise 2 out of the 3 work like brand new! Ironically the one that didn't come back to life was the early 2000's Craftsman. I'll throw a rebuild kit in it eventually.
Bang the one that wont work on a piece of wood a few times all around the head and toss it back in and forget it for a while.
The older ones are possibly V or VV Craftsman and were good ratchets.
Here is a list of the codes Craftsman used and the manufacturers. I found this somewhere online years ago, so thanks go to whoever compiled the list.
Early Craftsman Series (generally pre-1947, with some exceptions):
BC = unknown U.S. manufacturer, ca. ? - ?
BE = New Britain, ca. 1931 - 1947
BM = S-K, ca. 1939 - 1951
BT = unknown U.S. manufacturer, ca. 1936 - 1938
Cxx = Probably New Britain or Hinsdale, ca. 1930 - 1936
CI = unknown U.S manu., ca. 1930 - 1945
CF or C-F = Herbrand, ca. 1934 - 1939
Craftsman Vanadium = unknown U.S. Manu, ca. 1931 - 1941
C8 = JP Danielson, ca. 1930 -1936
F-circle = Miller Falls, ca. 1949 - 1964
G-circle = possibly Lectrolite, ca. 1949 - 1964
H-circle = New Britain, ca. 1931 - 1947
K-circle = SK, ca. 1939 - 1951 perhaps later
N-square = unknown U.S. manu., ca ? - ?
P-circle = Wilde, ca. 1945 - 1960
S-circle = Kastar, ca. 1960 - 2008, perhaps earlier
V-circle = unknown U.S. manu., ca. ? - 1985
U-circle = Plomb, ca. 1944 - 1948
Z-circle = Mayhew, ca. 1957 - 1969
Modern Craftsman Series (generally 1947 and later, with some exceptions):
BF = probably Daido, possibly Hozan, Japanese made, ca 1969 - 1987
C = unknown U.S. manu., ca. 1991
C = Stanley Works, Taiwanese made, ca. ? - ?
(note--this is a Canadian Craftsman series code)
CG = unknown U.S. manu., ca. 2001 - 2005
D = Kington, Chinese made, ca. 1992 - 2008
DJ = Mitutoyo, Japanese made, ca. 1968 perhaps earlier & later
E/EE = National Hand Tools/later Stanley Works-NHT division, some USA made, most Taiwanese made, ca. 1982 - 1991
EEE/EEC/EE7 = Stanley Works, Taiwanese made, ca. 1988 - 2009
(note--these are Canadian Craftsman series codes)
F = Danaher/possibly K-D division, ca. ? - 2008
G = Easco, ca. 1980 - 1989 perhaps as early as 1979 when Easco acquired the Gastonia plant
G continued = Danaher, ca. 1990 - 2009
G1 = Danaher, ca. 2000
G2 = Danaher, ca. ? - 2008
G2D = Danaher, ca. 2008 - 2009
GD = Danaher, ca. 2008 - 2009
GK = Danaher/Kingsley Tools Division, ca. 2003 - 2008
GK-A = Danaher/Kingsley Tools Division, ca. 1999 - 2003
GK-F = Danaher/Kinsley Tools Division, ca. 2007 - 2008
GK-G = Danaher/Kingsley Tools Division, ca. 2007 - 2008
GK-X = Danaher/Kinsley Tools Division, ca. ? - 2008
H = Danaher/Holo-Krome, ca. 1994 - 2009
HZ = Danaher/Holo-Krome, ca. ? - 2008
HZ O = Danaher/Holo-Krome, ca. 2009-2009
HZ OO = Danaher/Holo-Krome, ca. 2008 - 2009
I-circle = Parker Mfg Co, ca. 1965 - 1986
JW = J.H. Williams & Co, ca. 1954 - 1972
K = SK division of Facom, ca. 1985 - 2004, could still be NOS
K1W = Danaher, ca. 2007
K3V = Danaher, ca. ? - 2008
K3X = Danaher, ca. 2007 -2008
K9W = Danaher, ca. 2008 - 2009
KR = Danaher, ca. 2005 - 2008
KU = Danaher, ca. ? - 2008
KV = Danaher, ca. ? - 2008
KW = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2008, probably earlier
KX = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2008, probably earlier
L1X = Danaher, ca. 2008 - ?
L SI = Simmonds International, ca. 2008 - 2009
M6W = Dahaher, ca. 2007 - 2008
N = Pratt Read, ca. 2007 - 2009
OA = Unknown U.S. manu., ca. ? - ?
P = Wilde, ca. 2008 - 2009, perhaps earlier
Q = Pratt Read, ca. 2002 - 2006
R = Pratt Read, ca. 2002 - 2006
PR = Pratt Read, ca. 2002 - 2009
Q PR = Pratt Read, ca. ? - ?
S PR = Pratt Read, ca. 2007 - 2008
T PR = Pratt Read, ca. 2007 - 2008
U PR1-3 = Pratt Read, ca. 2008
V PR = Pratt Read, ca. 2007 - 2008
W PR = Pratt Read, ca 2007 - 2009
X PR = Pratt Reed, ca. 2009 - 2009
ST = Stanley Works, likely Taiwanese made, ca. 2007 - 2009
(note- this is a Canadian Craftsman series code)
T1V = Danaher, ca. 2006 - 2007
T2W = Danaher, ca. 2008
T3W = Danaher, ca. 2008
T5V = Danaher, ca. 2008
T5W = Danaher, ca. 2008
T5X = Danaher, ca. 2008
V = Moore Drop Forge, ca. 1938 - 1967
V (continued) = Easco, ca. 1968 - 1986 perhaps as late as 1991 as NOS
VF = Danaher, ca. likely early 1990's
VG = Danaher, ca. 1994 - 1995
VH = Danaher, ca. 1994 - 1997
VJ = Danaher, ca. 1994 - 2008
VK = Danaher, ca. 1996 - ?
VL = Danaher, ca. ? - ?
VM = Danaher, ca. ? - ?
VN = Danaher, ca. 1999 - 2001
VP = Danaher, ca. ? - ?
VQ = Danaher, ca. 2001 - 2004
VR = Danaher, ca. 2002
VS = Danaher, ca. 1995 - 2003
VT = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2006
VU = Danaher, ca. 2005
VV = Easco, ca. 1978 - 1989
VV continued = Danaher, ca. 1990 - 2009
VW = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2008
VVY = Danaher, ca. 2009 - ?
V^(2nd V inverted) = Danaher, Armstrong Division, ca. 1992 - 2008
VVL = Danaher, ca. 2000 - ?
VVN = Danaher, ca. 2005
VVS = Danaher, ca. 2003
VVT = Danaher, ca. 2004 - 2005
VVV = Danaher, ca. 2008
VVW = Danaher, ca. 2008
VVX = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2008, possibly earlier
W = SK Hand tools, post-Facom , ca. 2005 - 2008
WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - 2008
WF ll = Western Forge, ca. 1969
WF D = Western Forge, ca. ?
WF J = Western Forge, ca. 1991 - ?
WF K = Western Forge, ca. ?
WF L = Western Forge, ca. ? - 2009
WF R = Western Forge, ca. ?
WF U = Western Forge, ca. 2008
WF V = Western Forge, ca. 2008 - 2009
WF W = Western Forge, ca. 2002 - 2009
WF X = Western Forge, ca. 2008 - 2009
WF Y = Western Forge, ca. 2009 - 2009
A WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
B WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
C WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
D WF = Western Forge, ca. 1993 - 2000
E WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
F WF = Western Forge, ca. 2003
G WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
H WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
J WF = Western Forge, ca. 1995
K WF = Western Forge, ca. 1995
L WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
M WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
N WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
O WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
P WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
Q WF = Western Forge, ca. 1990 - 1995
S WF = Western Forge, ca. 2009
T WF = Western Forge, ca. 2002 - 2009
U WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
V WF = Western Forge, ca. 2002 - 2009
W WF = Western Forge, ca. 2002 - 2009
X WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - 2009
Y WF = Western Forge, ca. 2009 - 2009
+ WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - ?
* WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - ?
> WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
|| WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
∆ WF = Western Forge, ca. 1966 - ?
□ WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - ?
7 WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
X = SK Hand tools, post-Facom , ca. 2008 - 2009
Z = Mayhew, ca. 1957 - 2008
3 = Kastar, ca. 1991
4 = Kastar, ca. 1992
[ = Kastar, ca. 2002 - 2009 possibly earlier
.(Dot) = SK, ca. 2008 - 2009
The older ones are possibly V or VV Craftsman and were good ratchets.
Here is a list of the codes Craftsman used and the manufacturers. I found this somewhere online years ago, so thanks go to whoever compiled the list.
Early Craftsman Series (generally pre-1947, with some exceptions):
BC = unknown U.S. manufacturer, ca. ? - ?
BE = New Britain, ca. 1931 - 1947
BM = S-K, ca. 1939 - 1951
BT = unknown U.S. manufacturer, ca. 1936 - 1938
Cxx = Probably New Britain or Hinsdale, ca. 1930 - 1936
CI = unknown U.S manu., ca. 1930 - 1945
CF or C-F = Herbrand, ca. 1934 - 1939
Craftsman Vanadium = unknown U.S. Manu, ca. 1931 - 1941
C8 = JP Danielson, ca. 1930 -1936
F-circle = Miller Falls, ca. 1949 - 1964
G-circle = possibly Lectrolite, ca. 1949 - 1964
H-circle = New Britain, ca. 1931 - 1947
K-circle = SK, ca. 1939 - 1951 perhaps later
N-square = unknown U.S. manu., ca ? - ?
P-circle = Wilde, ca. 1945 - 1960
S-circle = Kastar, ca. 1960 - 2008, perhaps earlier
V-circle = unknown U.S. manu., ca. ? - 1985
U-circle = Plomb, ca. 1944 - 1948
Z-circle = Mayhew, ca. 1957 - 1969
Modern Craftsman Series (generally 1947 and later, with some exceptions):
BF = probably Daido, possibly Hozan, Japanese made, ca 1969 - 1987
C = unknown U.S. manu., ca. 1991
C = Stanley Works, Taiwanese made, ca. ? - ?
(note--this is a Canadian Craftsman series code)
CG = unknown U.S. manu., ca. 2001 - 2005
D = Kington, Chinese made, ca. 1992 - 2008
DJ = Mitutoyo, Japanese made, ca. 1968 perhaps earlier & later
E/EE = National Hand Tools/later Stanley Works-NHT division, some USA made, most Taiwanese made, ca. 1982 - 1991
EEE/EEC/EE7 = Stanley Works, Taiwanese made, ca. 1988 - 2009
(note--these are Canadian Craftsman series codes)
F = Danaher/possibly K-D division, ca. ? - 2008
G = Easco, ca. 1980 - 1989 perhaps as early as 1979 when Easco acquired the Gastonia plant
G continued = Danaher, ca. 1990 - 2009
G1 = Danaher, ca. 2000
G2 = Danaher, ca. ? - 2008
G2D = Danaher, ca. 2008 - 2009
GD = Danaher, ca. 2008 - 2009
GK = Danaher/Kingsley Tools Division, ca. 2003 - 2008
GK-A = Danaher/Kingsley Tools Division, ca. 1999 - 2003
GK-F = Danaher/Kinsley Tools Division, ca. 2007 - 2008
GK-G = Danaher/Kingsley Tools Division, ca. 2007 - 2008
GK-X = Danaher/Kinsley Tools Division, ca. ? - 2008
H = Danaher/Holo-Krome, ca. 1994 - 2009
HZ = Danaher/Holo-Krome, ca. ? - 2008
HZ O = Danaher/Holo-Krome, ca. 2009-2009
HZ OO = Danaher/Holo-Krome, ca. 2008 - 2009
I-circle = Parker Mfg Co, ca. 1965 - 1986
JW = J.H. Williams & Co, ca. 1954 - 1972
K = SK division of Facom, ca. 1985 - 2004, could still be NOS
K1W = Danaher, ca. 2007
K3V = Danaher, ca. ? - 2008
K3X = Danaher, ca. 2007 -2008
K9W = Danaher, ca. 2008 - 2009
KR = Danaher, ca. 2005 - 2008
KU = Danaher, ca. ? - 2008
KV = Danaher, ca. ? - 2008
KW = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2008, probably earlier
KX = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2008, probably earlier
L1X = Danaher, ca. 2008 - ?
L SI = Simmonds International, ca. 2008 - 2009
M6W = Dahaher, ca. 2007 - 2008
N = Pratt Read, ca. 2007 - 2009
OA = Unknown U.S. manu., ca. ? - ?
P = Wilde, ca. 2008 - 2009, perhaps earlier
Q = Pratt Read, ca. 2002 - 2006
R = Pratt Read, ca. 2002 - 2006
PR = Pratt Read, ca. 2002 - 2009
Q PR = Pratt Read, ca. ? - ?
S PR = Pratt Read, ca. 2007 - 2008
T PR = Pratt Read, ca. 2007 - 2008
U PR1-3 = Pratt Read, ca. 2008
V PR = Pratt Read, ca. 2007 - 2008
W PR = Pratt Read, ca 2007 - 2009
X PR = Pratt Reed, ca. 2009 - 2009
ST = Stanley Works, likely Taiwanese made, ca. 2007 - 2009
(note- this is a Canadian Craftsman series code)
T1V = Danaher, ca. 2006 - 2007
T2W = Danaher, ca. 2008
T3W = Danaher, ca. 2008
T5V = Danaher, ca. 2008
T5W = Danaher, ca. 2008
T5X = Danaher, ca. 2008
V = Moore Drop Forge, ca. 1938 - 1967
V (continued) = Easco, ca. 1968 - 1986 perhaps as late as 1991 as NOS
VF = Danaher, ca. likely early 1990's
VG = Danaher, ca. 1994 - 1995
VH = Danaher, ca. 1994 - 1997
VJ = Danaher, ca. 1994 - 2008
VK = Danaher, ca. 1996 - ?
VL = Danaher, ca. ? - ?
VM = Danaher, ca. ? - ?
VN = Danaher, ca. 1999 - 2001
VP = Danaher, ca. ? - ?
VQ = Danaher, ca. 2001 - 2004
VR = Danaher, ca. 2002
VS = Danaher, ca. 1995 - 2003
VT = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2006
VU = Danaher, ca. 2005
VV = Easco, ca. 1978 - 1989
VV continued = Danaher, ca. 1990 - 2009
VW = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2008
VVY = Danaher, ca. 2009 - ?
V^(2nd V inverted) = Danaher, Armstrong Division, ca. 1992 - 2008
VVL = Danaher, ca. 2000 - ?
VVN = Danaher, ca. 2005
VVS = Danaher, ca. 2003
VVT = Danaher, ca. 2004 - 2005
VVV = Danaher, ca. 2008
VVW = Danaher, ca. 2008
VVX = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2008, possibly earlier
W = SK Hand tools, post-Facom , ca. 2005 - 2008
WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - 2008
WF ll = Western Forge, ca. 1969
WF D = Western Forge, ca. ?
WF J = Western Forge, ca. 1991 - ?
WF K = Western Forge, ca. ?
WF L = Western Forge, ca. ? - 2009
WF R = Western Forge, ca. ?
WF U = Western Forge, ca. 2008
WF V = Western Forge, ca. 2008 - 2009
WF W = Western Forge, ca. 2002 - 2009
WF X = Western Forge, ca. 2008 - 2009
WF Y = Western Forge, ca. 2009 - 2009
A WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
B WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
C WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
D WF = Western Forge, ca. 1993 - 2000
E WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
F WF = Western Forge, ca. 2003
G WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
H WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
J WF = Western Forge, ca. 1995
K WF = Western Forge, ca. 1995
L WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
M WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
N WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
O WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
P WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
Q WF = Western Forge, ca. 1990 - 1995
S WF = Western Forge, ca. 2009
T WF = Western Forge, ca. 2002 - 2009
U WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
V WF = Western Forge, ca. 2002 - 2009
W WF = Western Forge, ca. 2002 - 2009
X WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - 2009
Y WF = Western Forge, ca. 2009 - 2009
+ WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - ?
* WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - ?
> WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
|| WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
∆ WF = Western Forge, ca. 1966 - ?
□ WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - ?
7 WF = Western Forge, ca. ?
X = SK Hand tools, post-Facom , ca. 2008 - 2009
Z = Mayhew, ca. 1957 - 2008
3 = Kastar, ca. 1991
4 = Kastar, ca. 1992
[ = Kastar, ca. 2002 - 2009 possibly earlier
.(Dot) = SK, ca. 2008 - 2009
I used to lube my ratchets with super lube. Now, they get full of engine oil on the regular, so I have found no need to apply additional lubrication.
Well, thanks to this thread, I now have all freshly lubed ratchets.
Most of my 1/2" and 3/8" drives were working well, but notice that are all even smother now.
I have a cheap 3/8" Husky brand one that was giving me a lot of issues (hard to switch, not always locking properly), now works like almost new.
One of my 1/2" Craftsmans was also very sticky when using, internally it was like it was covered in a sticky varnish.
I have two 1/4" Craftsman ratchets (one is from the late 80's, one from ~2000 time frame) that were giving me problems.
One would not stay in place when turning (would just click itself back and forth when trying to use) and the other would occasionally jump when using.
They both now are working great.
I used some waterproof bike grease I had (don't remember the name, looks like a similar thickness to the SuperLube), seems to be working (will find out next time I actually use them).
Luckily they are all simple to take apart if I need to.
Most of my 1/2" and 3/8" drives were working well, but notice that are all even smother now.
I have a cheap 3/8" Husky brand one that was giving me a lot of issues (hard to switch, not always locking properly), now works like almost new.
One of my 1/2" Craftsmans was also very sticky when using, internally it was like it was covered in a sticky varnish.
I have two 1/4" Craftsman ratchets (one is from the late 80's, one from ~2000 time frame) that were giving me problems.
One would not stay in place when turning (would just click itself back and forth when trying to use) and the other would occasionally jump when using.
They both now are working great.
I used some waterproof bike grease I had (don't remember the name, looks like a similar thickness to the SuperLube), seems to be working (will find out next time I actually use them).
Luckily they are all simple to take apart if I need to.
Yeah ratchets which I lubed with Super Lube are working like brand new ones. Smooth operation and mechanism.
I'll give it a try to gear oil too. Definitely liked ATF too.
Thanks to all for their advice and feedback
I'll give it a try to gear oil too. Definitely liked ATF too.
Thanks to all for their advice and feedback
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Yeah ratchets which I lubed with Super Lube are working like brand new ones. Smooth operation and mechanism.
I'll give it a try to gear oil too. Definitely liked ATF too.
Thanks to all for their advice and feedback
Yeah, I debated using gear oil on my 1/4" drives, but i did a very, very thin coating of the grease on them and seems to work. I will have to see how long term use fairs though. I was worried that gear oil would leak out over time since they are not sealed.
I think soaking the heads in ATF is a good refresh/maintanance option, but not a long term solution.
Yeah ratchets which I lubed with Super Lube are working like brand new ones. Smooth operation and mechanism.
I'll give it a try to gear oil too. Definitely liked ATF too.
Thanks to all for their advice and feedback
Yeah, I debated using gear oil on my 1/4" drives, but i did a very, very thin coating of the grease on them and seems to work. I will have to see how long term use fairs though. I was worried that gear oil would leak out over time since they are not sealed.
I think soaking the heads in ATF is a good refresh/maintanance option, but not a long term solution.
Gun oil works good on the small ratchets.
- Status
Similar threads
