Lubegard Kool-it Radiator additive?

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FWIW, Water-Wetter is also a very effective corrosion inhibitor, and will prevent Galvanic Corrosion from occurring even in cooling systems running nothing but Distilled Water and one bottle WW (and which consist of aluminum, brass, copper, and other components all in the same loop).

I tested this a while ago, by taking two pieces of C110 99.998% pure copper (each about 1.5oz), two pieces of high-purity aluminum (each about 1.8oz), 5gal of Distilled H2O, two 2.5L "Beakers", and one bottle of Water Wetter.
In each of the beakers, I put one of the copper pieces and one of the aluminum. They were each filled with the Distilled Water, except one had been pre-mixed with Water Wetter to a 95:5 ratio (95% H2O).
I let them set over the course of 113 days, and would "agitate" the beakers (which were hermetically sealed immediately after being filled to reduce the influx of any ions that weren't copper or aluminum) whenever I thought to, or as often as 13x in one day and as little as 1x over the course of 4 days (out of town).

At Day 114, the just-H2O copper had become corroded beyond any hope of repair, it was just demolished.
The copper with the water wetter in it? NOTHING! Not even Varnish!

Now, even in my Computer's Custom Liquid-Cooling Loop, I use Water Wetter ANY TIME there is even a POSSIBILITY of mixed metals, no matter how close they are on the Galvanic Index (i.e. in my PC, it's 100% copper and brass, but still...)
 
Only slightly related, but the conversation about less anti-freeze enabling better cooling worked for me in a water cooled 2 stroke Rotax motor I was using on an Ultralight plane. Kept overheating, I bought a can (can't remember brand) of water wetter for $25 which didn't help at all. I wrote of my problem on the ultralight forum and got a PM from a guy who said "I'm not a pilot but an old mechanic who's been around; try 10% anti-freeze". I did, and it solved my problem. I've passed this on to others who had cooling issues and it worked for them too. The 30% mentioned above surely sounds reasonable to me if 10% seems too little.
 
I would like to hear from real world users with coolant/water mix as well. Specifically in regards to the "gunk" buildup, which I've seen with WW. My F250 tends to get a bit on the warmer side in the summer. Although I may also try a slightly lower concentration of coolant before the summer.
 
I've ONLY ever had slime/sludge in the coolant from the RED, gasoline engine labelled, RL Water Wetter in the Dex Cool.

Kool-It, Purple Ice, DEI, the green Hyper-Lube stuff, nor even the blue DIESEL RL Water Wetter, NEVER caused any in MY system.
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Originally Posted By: dailydriver
I've ONLY ever had slime/sludge in the coolant from the RED, gasoline engine labelled, RL Water Wetter in the Dex Cool.

Kool-It, Purple Ice, DEI, the green Hyper-Lube stuff, nor even the blue DIESEL RL Water Wetter, NEVER caused any in MY system.
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Good to know, I may try some Kool-it in the truck. Question is, if the grime does occur, is it hard to get rid of?
 
Went ahead and purchased some of this for the truck. I saw an interesting chart on Lubegards website mentioning the cause of the grime: polysiloxane polymer(silicone). According to their chart, only Redline WW contains this in the formula.
 
I just phoned Lubegard customer service and they told me that they recommend adding a bottle per year to keep up the effectiveness of their product. They stated that you shouldn't have to change all your coolant every year but rather just add a bottle of Kool-it every year and continue with the same coolant and change it as you will. Just adding one bottle of Kool-it will still be an effective protect-ant even if only added once per coolant change over an extended period of time....
 
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