LOOK what MMO did to my pistons!!!!!!! and MORE!!

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I have an 84 Honda Civic and just about every year the oil consumption goes up and the engine smokes on startup and slowing down. So in goes a bottle of MMO followed in a couple of hundred miles an oil change and the problem is gone for about a year. The valve seals were replaced once and as the cycle gets worse I'm planning a second valve seal job.
 
Gary Writes:
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I'll be up for emissions testing in a few months (I think) and I will repeat this in a tankful of fuel close to the testing. Since it's OBDI, I still have to pass the dyno sniffer test. I've always passed with flying colors except for NOX .

Good plan. De-carbonizing combustion chambers will almost always lower NOX emissions. I've used Sea Foam and GM Top Engine Cleaner through the intake to do it in the past. But given your results with MMO in the tank, well your way is a whole lot easier.
 
I am confused. Did you mean 2 quarts into 20 gallons?
Or, one quart into 20 gallons twice.

What did it do to your sparkplugs?
 
quote:

am confused. Did you mean 2 quarts into 20 gallons?
Or, one quart into 20 gallons twice.

What did it do to your sparkplugs?

One quart into 20 gallons twice. The first was accompanied by 2 quarts of ATF.

I haven't seen the plugs yet. But I imagine that they're very clean. Otherwise I would end up with starting issues, or so one could reason.
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Yes, Wayne. ATF is a "geezer" technique to clean combustion chambers. It's basically a lost art due to two reasons. One you don't have carbs anymore (How likely is it for you to own a car with an OEM carb?). Two it produces a massive white cloud if done like you would SeaFoam or H20 through the PCV line. I ONLY know this since when in auto school (1973) the teachers (all 8-10 years older) had run into having to decarbonize CC's before the invention of stuff like GM top engine cleaner. ATF was discovered when a leaking vacuum modulator was tapped to the rear runner of a V8. The head were pulled for unrelated reasons ..and the piston on that runner (the one that the ATF was being sucked into) was clean while the rest were carbon laden. I've done it on many ...many..engines, sensored and unsensored. It too, if done in sufficient quantity, leaves nothing behind ...right down to the cast iron on the inside of the exhaust manifold.

This was more "myth buster/Jackazz" combo stuff.


btw-there are plenty of geezers that have no clue of using ATF. You'll probably note that they also were never professional mechanics ...even though they may be very accomplished mechanically and own all kinds of fine vintage hardware. Although this technique was wide spread ..it wasn't across the board, so to speak. That is, although you have to be semi-geezer to know about it ...JUST because you're a geezer doesn't mean that you're aware of it.
 
So this is safe IYO on modern cars with an ultra-sensitive OBDII emissions system?

I'd do this in a heartbeat if I knew that it wouldn't screw up my new catalytic converter and O2 sensors (stupid cheap VW cats
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). My piston tops have a decent amount of carbon on them and I'd love to get rid of it. If it's really this easy, then why not?
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Gary
 
I used MMO as a fuel additive in a 175K Chevy Nova (Corolla not the big 70's beast) that I purchased from my mother-in-law. Typical little old lady usage, engine completely gummed up. Did a good job of cleaning things up-- think this had throttle body injection-- not sure, but the transmission died on the car soon after it stopped missing. Maybe I should have thrown some Marvel in there. Anyway, haven't used it since-- thought it worked better with carburators and throttle bodies than modern injectors. Still, wouldn't hesitate if I thought I had a need, and it smelled a lot better than some other additives.
 
No ..I know that since I'm an only child. My parents decided to cut their losses and not throw the dice on getting anything worse.
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But here's more
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My heads. Only one since I didn't get the exhaust manifold off of the other one yet.

I removed one valve. As you can see, no accumulations. The chambers look good ..

THE PLUGS LOOK LIKE CRAP!!!! But they are pre BITOG plugs ..so ?? The valve train images are "virgin" and then after the cam was removed and brushed in a SafetyClean parts washer. You can see what didn't get removed with just the paintbrush action. Auto Rx did pretty good for 170k, IMHO. What may look "crud" on the one image is the rough, unmachined, surface on the cam. It's very course.

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Here's what the one combustion chamber looked like with the oil that got all over it from tilting it around.
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I've been using MMO for the past 40 years with good results. Years ago some negative ninny told me it was made from chicken fat. This caused me to write to the company. They actually sent me a free case of quarts. They later sent my an inverse oiler. I'd doubt if the TW people are this friendly.....
 
Good test
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Its nice to see someone testing products which seem to get bad mouthed around here.
 
Many parents and grandparents carry pictures of their children in their wallets.
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I hope you're not so far gone that you carry these around!
[this is humor]
 
Gary,

You didn't pull the heads to fix the water leak. You wanted to see how your MMO and ATF worked.

You only have 12 valves! What happened to the other 12? LOL

What kind of plugs are those? They look like they have two ground electrodes? Are you going to use NGK double platinums or some new crazy design plug?

Did you do a compression test before dissassembly.

While you are in there you should change your timing belt idler pulley and the spring? tensioner.

It would also be interesting to see a photo of your 170k timing belt. Any cracks?

BTW that engine is VERY sensitive to milling of the surface of the head. I don't know why. But, I have heard the limit is only .007 inches. Basically nothing.
 
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