look of valves at 362,000 miles - 92 accord - pic

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I was adjusting valves and took a few shots.

valves.jpg


http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h13/longtoe47/valves.jpg

1992 Accord LX, original owner. Castrol GTX 5w30 at 3,000 mile intervals for first 100,000 miles then bumped to 5,000 miles until 350,000. Assortment of filters over the years including quite a few frams.
frown.gif

For the last 12,000 miles, PYB at 5k intervals with NAPA Golds as I have been enlightened by BITOG. Many thanks. Admittedly I have been relaxed about changing the PCV, this may explain the varnish if the miles do not. I am reluctant to use any harsh cleaning agents for fear of causing leaks at the seals. The engine seems healthy and runs with that typical Honda chatter, burning less than 1/3 qt. between changes and getting 34 mpg. This site is one of my many tools in keeping this car up and running, sincere thanks.
 
I'd stick to what ever it is you've been doing and not put anything into that engine. You could try a pint of MMO for the last 500 miles of your OCI's but as big a fan as I am of MMO I might just pass on that idea in your car.

As a side note a good HM oil might clean things up if they really bother you!
 
If it was mine I'd autorx it as it may help get rid of some of the varnish and may free up some more power by increasing compression. My BMVee had similar varnish due to running conventional oil all its life (also has deposits in oil pan/sump area). I ran it hard with auto rx for about 300 miles now and it does have a noticeable increase in power already which surprised me. Hopefully it will get even better as I go through the rest of clean and rinse phases, but that may be expecting too much.
 
I adjusted the valves on my 01' Accord for the first time recently at nearly 90K. A couple seemed a little loose but nothing too bad. How often do you adjust yours?

Even though all is well with your engine I would run an Auto-RX treatment to 'condition' the seals and gently clean some varnish.

I'm going back to an OE PCV valve as soon as I can get to a dealer. I find the aftermarket Frams and Purolators gum up too often which causes some oil usage.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
How were the valves? - hope you didnt make 'em too tight. A close up of a cam lobe would be nice. Varnish looks normal. Good show!


lobe.jpg


http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h13/longtoe47/lobe.jpg

Thanks for the replies! I don't see a lot of engines, so I did not know how this looked. Loose valve being happy valves I put them all on the + side of +/-. Them being too tight is what got me started as it would be a shame to burn up a good engine after 17 years.
 
ARX doesn't "get rid of varnish." After all, it's just "cosmetic."
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If I did anything, I'd consider a couple of runs of Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 (or Quaker State Syn) or maybe Mobil1 HM 5w30/10W-30...
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
I adjusted the valves on my 01' Accord for the first time recently at nearly 90K. A couple seemed a little loose but nothing too bad. How often do you adjust yours?


I had a shop service it at 300,000 and checked them myself at about 350,000. They were a bit tight but I assumed valves only get looser so I left them. Recently I have learned that is not always the case and that they have been known to tighten up in some instances (though it seems more common on sport bikes). That sent me back under the cover in a hurry just to be safe.
 
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Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
ARX doesn't "get rid of varnish." After all, it's just "cosmetic."
13.gif


If I did anything, I'd consider a couple of runs of Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 (or Quaker State Syn) or maybe Mobil1 HM 5w30/10W-30...


It may not make any noticeable difference in varnish but it has as good a chance or better than anything else. I am running PP 5W30+ARX to get it cleaned out and then will switch to an ester-based oil.
 
Your regimen is working for you, but if you should desire to change.....M1 HM.
 
Valve clearances get tight if the wear at the valve/seat interface is more than the wear of the cam lobes and/or rockers. I bet that it was exhaust valves which were a little tight, eh? Exhaust valves and seats generally wear more quickly than do the intake valves and seats.

Your maint. regimen is working great for you. I wouldn't change a thing. GTX and PYB are both excellent oils and I would use them interchangeably, choosing only on price between them.
 
Originally Posted By: wgtoys
I bet that it was exhaust valves which were a little tight, eh? Exhaust valves and seats generally wear more quickly than do the intake valves and seats.


you are correct.
 
You obviously have done the RIGHT thing with this car. No reason whatsoever to change anything.
However, for the sheer joy of experimentation and curiosity I'd run the next 20,000 miles on Mobil 1.

It might do nothing. It might turn that varnish into a mirror like shine. It surely can't hurt anything.

For about $65, it's a front row ticket to an awesome experiment. I wish it were mine. I'd love every mile of it.

By the way Mobil 1 0w-40 would be my choice for your car. I mean why not use their best domestic product?
 
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I would be tempted to experiment with regimens intended to clean the varnish, mostly to determine what works, how fast it works, and what doesn't. Increasing compression might also occur by improving ring seal.
 
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