Long term EDGE users?
- Thread starter buster
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SN+ has only been released since May 2018 so it may be hard to find long term data.
I'm sure you'll get comments that the formula met SN+ requirements for some indeterminate time beforehand. Cue the rampant speculation.....
That being said, it's good stuff, just like dozens of other available offerings. Choose based on personal preference because all oils that meet this spec will keep you engine much cleaner than it needs to be.
I'm sure you'll get comments that the formula met SN+ requirements for some indeterminate time beforehand. Cue the rampant speculation.....
That being said, it's good stuff, just like dozens of other available offerings. Choose based on personal preference because all oils that meet this spec will keep you engine much cleaner than it needs to be.
Well said. Agree. In the past there was a lot of skepticism of the brand and it's ability to keep engines clean and varnish free. However none of that was conclusive by any means. M1 for example has a known reputation for keeping engines extremely clean, as well as providing a lot of videos of testing showing the actual performance.
Originally Posted by buster
Well said. Agree. In the past there was a lot of skepticism of the brand and it's ability to keep engines clean and varnish free. However none of that was conclusive by any means. M1 for example has a known reputation for keeping engines extremely clean, as well as providing a lot of videos of testing showing the actual performance.
Tests done by Mobil 1 ???
I know that European made Castrol 0W40 can do same job as Mobil 1 ..if not better !
Well said. Agree. In the past there was a lot of skepticism of the brand and it's ability to keep engines clean and varnish free. However none of that was conclusive by any means. M1 for example has a known reputation for keeping engines extremely clean, as well as providing a lot of videos of testing showing the actual performance.
Tests done by Mobil 1 ???
I know that European made Castrol 0W40 can do same job as Mobil 1 ..if not better !
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Mobil 1 has put out many detailed videos of engine testing and tear downs showing the results of the engine condition. Numerous tests. They just do an excellent job of showing you proof of performance compared to most companies.
You never see anything close to what Mobil does from any other oil maker. I've never seen a video of 15k-20k drains over hundreds of thousand of miles from any blender. Mobil is much more transparent than the competitors.
The others are simply "believe our claims".
You never see anything close to what Mobil does from any other oil maker. I've never seen a video of 15k-20k drains over hundreds of thousand of miles from any blender. Mobil is much more transparent than the competitors.
The others are simply "believe our claims".
I recall XoM photo of piston deposit but the exposure appeared changed by about 3 stops to make the M1 piston look better.
I think I still have that presentation.
So Marketing again.
Clean is one thing, then AW is another. Its a balance,
If you don't have aggregate data of multiple sequence tests, pretty pictures mean absolutely nothing.
I don't know anyone who provides this certification data. Maybe there is a deepthroat out there.
_________
I will say the oil that keeps down instances of hot or cold stuck rings is
one of the most important characteristic of a good oil
You notice this when you have a feeling the engine is not running 100% on all cylinders.
Like a bad plug or a bad injector spray pattern.
But Buster, your engine is breaking in so it wont be settled in and running well until you hit over 5000 miles.
I've run in over 50 new engines, I know what to expect and not expect.
That was a fine oil choice. Less ring and cylinder wear.then the "leading Brand"
I think I still have that presentation.
So Marketing again.
Clean is one thing, then AW is another. Its a balance,
If you don't have aggregate data of multiple sequence tests, pretty pictures mean absolutely nothing.
I don't know anyone who provides this certification data. Maybe there is a deepthroat out there.
_________
I will say the oil that keeps down instances of hot or cold stuck rings is
one of the most important characteristic of a good oil
You notice this when you have a feeling the engine is not running 100% on all cylinders.
Like a bad plug or a bad injector spray pattern.
But Buster, your engine is breaking in so it wont be settled in and running well until you hit over 5000 miles.
I've run in over 50 new engines, I know what to expect and not expect.
That was a fine oil choice. Less ring and cylinder wear.then the "leading Brand"
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The only evidence I have of cleanliness with Castrol is the example above. Whenever the service department did the tappet adjustments I asked to see what it looked like. This was some time back and GTX had the tendency to leave the internals with a nice goldish-yellow tint. That seemed to be typical of GTX and even the mechanic mentioned it.
Interestingly enough there is a recent thread where the discussion between actual varnish and additive fallout or buildup made me think about that. I always thought it was varnish but now I wonder.
Castrol Edge of course is a totally different animal than the old GTX.
Interestingly enough there is a recent thread where the discussion between actual varnish and additive fallout or buildup made me think about that. I always thought it was varnish but now I wonder.
Castrol Edge of course is a totally different animal than the old GTX.
I brought this up due to the past posts about certain Castrol oils and varnish. Doug Hillary (worked for Castrol for many years) also claimed that at one time their oils were not good at keeping engines clean. I realize however EDGE EP is a newer formulation in a different time period.
PimTac, thanks for the real example you experienced
.
PimTac, thanks for the real example you experienced
.
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
your engine is breaking in so it wont be settled in and running well until you hit over 5000 miles.
It's been a little while since I've been directly involved in building engines, but I am fairly confident in saying that "most" of the lingering "wear" that shows up if you do a UOA at 5k miles is a good portion of what was already in the sump from the initial fill. Meaning, with today's machining techniques, ring materials, bearing coatings, etc, probably 95% of the mythical 5000 mile break-in wear is actually accumulated within the first 500 miles or so. With the much finer crosshatch on cylinders and different angles than years past, different ring materials and finishes, the rings in an engine are "set" within the first couple minutes of an engine's lifetime. Then there is some acquaintence time between the rod & crank journals & bearings, and the same with the valvetrain.
If you had a new car and dumped the factory fill at 500 miles for example, and then did another one at 3k, by the next UOA you should most likely see wear metals within the statistically similar range as the same engine family at much longer mileage totals... IMO, it's when you leave the factory fill in a long time, and continue on long OCIs that the UOAs reflect more of the residual break-in oil than if you were to short-change the OCIs. Maybe I'm wrong?
your engine is breaking in so it wont be settled in and running well until you hit over 5000 miles.
It's been a little while since I've been directly involved in building engines, but I am fairly confident in saying that "most" of the lingering "wear" that shows up if you do a UOA at 5k miles is a good portion of what was already in the sump from the initial fill. Meaning, with today's machining techniques, ring materials, bearing coatings, etc, probably 95% of the mythical 5000 mile break-in wear is actually accumulated within the first 500 miles or so. With the much finer crosshatch on cylinders and different angles than years past, different ring materials and finishes, the rings in an engine are "set" within the first couple minutes of an engine's lifetime. Then there is some acquaintence time between the rod & crank journals & bearings, and the same with the valvetrain.
If you had a new car and dumped the factory fill at 500 miles for example, and then did another one at 3k, by the next UOA you should most likely see wear metals within the statistically similar range as the same engine family at much longer mileage totals... IMO, it's when you leave the factory fill in a long time, and continue on long OCIs that the UOAs reflect more of the residual break-in oil than if you were to short-change the OCIs. Maybe I'm wrong?
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
your engine is breaking in so it wont be settled in and running well until you hit over 5000 miles.
It's been a little while since I've been directly involved in building engines, but I am fairly confident in saying that "most" of the lingering "wear" that shows up if you do a UOA at 5k miles is a good portion of what was already in the sump from the initial fill. Meaning, with today's machining techniques, ring materials, bearing coatings, etc, probably 95% of the mythical 5000 mile break-in wear is actually accumulated within the first 500 miles or so. With the much finer crosshatch on cylinders and different angles than years past, different ring materials and finishes, the rings in an engine are "set" within the first couple minutes of an engine's lifetime. Then there is some acquaintence time between the rod & crank journals & bearings, and the same with the valvetrain.
If you had a new car and dumped the factory fill at 500 miles for example, and then did another one at 3k, by the next UOA you should most likely see wear metals within the statistically similar range as the same engine family at much longer mileage totals... IMO, it's when you leave the factory fill in a long time, and continue on long OCIs that the UOAs reflect more of the residual break-in oil than if you were to short-change the OCIs. Maybe I'm wrong?
That sounds reasonable to me. I usually dump the OE fill around 4-5k miles. I dumped this one earlier than I normally do @1k miles. I'll likely do one more change before winter then stick with it a good 6 months or so. My driving falls under the severe service category.
I haven't decided what to do with the Subaru yet.
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
your engine is breaking in so it wont be settled in and running well until you hit over 5000 miles.
It's been a little while since I've been directly involved in building engines, but I am fairly confident in saying that "most" of the lingering "wear" that shows up if you do a UOA at 5k miles is a good portion of what was already in the sump from the initial fill. Meaning, with today's machining techniques, ring materials, bearing coatings, etc, probably 95% of the mythical 5000 mile break-in wear is actually accumulated within the first 500 miles or so. With the much finer crosshatch on cylinders and different angles than years past, different ring materials and finishes, the rings in an engine are "set" within the first couple minutes of an engine's lifetime. Then there is some acquaintence time between the rod & crank journals & bearings, and the same with the valvetrain.
If you had a new car and dumped the factory fill at 500 miles for example, and then did another one at 3k, by the next UOA you should most likely see wear metals within the statistically similar range as the same engine family at much longer mileage totals... IMO, it's when you leave the factory fill in a long time, and continue on long OCIs that the UOAs reflect more of the residual break-in oil than if you were to short-change the OCIs. Maybe I'm wrong?
That sounds reasonable to me. I usually dump the OE fill around 4-5k miles. I dumped this one earlier than I normally do @1k miles. I'll likely do one more change before winter then stick with it a good 6 months or so. My driving falls under the severe service category.
I haven't decided what to do with the Subaru yet.
Never had a dirty engine with Edge.
Originally Posted by buster
Agree. Thanks! Just curious as we never hear about internal engine cleanliness with many other brands. I was curious about EDGE.
Shell have some.. usually car manufacturer approvals contain deposit control
Agree. Thanks! Just curious as we never hear about internal engine cleanliness with many other brands. I was curious about EDGE.
Shell have some.. usually car manufacturer approvals contain deposit control
I have confidence in the EDGE line for keeping engines clean based on the OEM approvals and specifications met. A lot of their marketing focus is on wear control, especially with their Ti additive technology and Magnatec chemistry. I know the past hasn't been too favorable for the Castrol brand on here, hence my question.
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I found that Edge Euro (0W-40) held up against fuel dilution better than Mobil 1 Euro (0W-40) in my AMG. I would use it with no qualms whatsoever.
Originally Posted by 2015_PSD
I found that Edge Euro (0W-40) held up against fuel dilution better than Mobil 1 Euro (0W-40) in my AMG. I would use it with no qualms whatsoever.
I had the same experience in my Turbo Optima. Very pleased with the Castrol EDGE 0W-40 oil.
I found that Edge Euro (0W-40) held up against fuel dilution better than Mobil 1 Euro (0W-40) in my AMG. I would use it with no qualms whatsoever.
I had the same experience in my Turbo Optima. Very pleased with the Castrol EDGE 0W-40 oil.
Originally Posted by buster
Mobil 1 has put out many detailed videos of engine testing and tear downs showing the results of the engine condition. Numerous tests. They just do an excellent job of showing you proof of performance compared to most companies.
You never see anything close to what Mobil does from any other oil maker. I've never seen a video of 15k-20k drains over hundreds of thousand of miles from any blender. Mobil is much more transparent than the competitors.
The others are simply "believe our claims".
Don't agree....
Chevron Havoline did a good video on their Havoline Pro DS... Motor tear down... And that motor run with the Havoline Pro DS looked great.
Mobil 1 has put out many detailed videos of engine testing and tear downs showing the results of the engine condition. Numerous tests. They just do an excellent job of showing you proof of performance compared to most companies.
You never see anything close to what Mobil does from any other oil maker. I've never seen a video of 15k-20k drains over hundreds of thousand of miles from any blender. Mobil is much more transparent than the competitors.
The others are simply "believe our claims".
Don't agree....
Chevron Havoline did a good video on their Havoline Pro DS... Motor tear down... And that motor run with the Havoline Pro DS looked great.
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