Living the MaxLife

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Agree my mothers is in the open, it does not get as cold here a -22, but they live on a hill, and the wind really whips. It comes up a small valley, and just centers the house etc, so the car get a good cold soak being in the teens many times this year.. never once did it turn over slowly, or have any different cranking speed, or problem compared to around 40* talking Fahrenheit here.

Also you didn't start any war here, and suggestions would be no problem, however when people go outside of suggestion getting intense in the accusation area they need to state more about themselves/what facts data scientific or educated FACTS when doing so than to throw comments at you like "you have been schooled" 10w30 is an old oil" etc..especially when going OUTSIDE THE MANUFACTURES RECOMMENDATION fact be known I would be willing to bet more cars are running around the US and maybe Canada as well on 10w30 than any other oil.
 
I'd definitely prefer 0/5w30 in winter for this motor. But I've used 10w30 in the 3800 in the dead of winter and there really isn't much difference. Especially since ML 10w30 pours at -41C...
 
Originally Posted By: flatlandtacoma
There are very few that know their stuff that post here anymore. Most just read "motor oil 101" and then start throwing out recommendations.

And im guessing you have your PHD in oilology!!
 
Originally Posted By: kcfx4
And im guessing you have your PHD in oilology!!
The funny thing about a forum like this one is that it's hard to know who has good credentials and who doesn't.

I rather enjoy it. It forces people to be either thoughtful or argumentative. Come for the discourse; stay for the entertainment.
 
Based on my limited time here I would have to agree. I am far from an oil expert but do find the site addictive and entertaining. It is also a great source of information!!!
If I see something that sounds a bit out there I research it further before throwing down the [censored] card.
I never dreamed oil could generate so much emotion in people. LOL!!!
 
Sure 10w30 is "all it needs" but 5w30 can only help, it certainly can't do the engine harm. With today's modern oils, shearing shouldn't be the reason to avoid 5w30, it simply doesn't happen the same way it used to.

And after all, if their the same price, and are the same visc at operating temp, why not take the added benefits for cold starts??



And to the person asking why do we usually recommend to follow manufacturers recommendation, but differ from it now... Because most people we suggest follow manu's reco's to have new cars, with recommendations based on todays oil's. Therefor there is nothing to change.
 
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The oil pressure relief valve was changed in 2004 to allow higher oil pressure so they put 5w30 on the cap.

I have been using 5w30 for almost 3.5 years, all year round in my SC Regal. Oil has come along way. Around here the GM dealers stick 5w30 bulk in it unless it's a M1 cap call.
 
Originally Posted By: beast3300
The oil pressure relief valve was changed in 2004 to allow higher oil pressure so they put 5w30 on the cap.
I am not so sure about that. GM lists the same part numbers for the spring and valve for all 3800s from 1985 to 2008. Of course, it could be a revised part number that fits in the older oil pump assemblies.

In GM's literature from 2003, they say that the main reason for the change was that GF-3 oil is "more resistant to breakdown with heat" (they weren't more specific than that). They also state that 2004+ 3800s use a smaller starter as a consequence of the thinner cold oil. I haven't verified that in the parts catalogs.
 
Originally Posted By: Beagle2000
Keep in mind that the -20 is not the norm here where I live. Typical daytime high is -2 to -5 and typical low at night is
-12 to -15. Next week the forecast is for plus 2 daytime highs so the -20 is a small blip on the radar.


Well that is different, since a heatwave is coming. -15 at night, that's nothing. I think you can tell how long the oil pressure waits to build, and the motor does have those miles on it. If the manual temp chart says 10w is OK, I would say it is OK. Although you never asked to be advised anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: Stu_Rock
Originally Posted By: beast3300
The oil pressure relief valve was changed in 2004 to allow higher oil pressure so they put 5w30 on the cap.
I am not so sure about that. GM lists the same part numbers for the spring and valve for all 3800s from 1985 to 2008. Of course, it could be a revised part number that fits in the older oil pump assemblies.

In GM's literature from 2003, they say that the main reason for the change was that GF-3 oil is "more resistant to breakdown with heat" (they weren't more specific than that). They also state that 2004+ 3800s use a smaller starter as a consequence of the thinner cold oil. I haven't verified that in the parts catalogs.


http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/products1.php?id=219&catid=109
 
Had the beast out today and had it parked outside for about 5 hours. Turn the key, she fires right up, no lifter noise or anything. Just a smooth running GM 3800. That really is a great motor. My 5th GM 3800 that I've owned to date. When cared for they do seem virtually indestructable. I recall seeing something about that motor being on the Ward's Ten Best Engine list. It does make some good oil pressure. 70 PSI cold and mid to high 50's fully warmed up.....like after 40 kms driving to work. Pressure sending unit is new and was installed yesterday when to OCI was done. Factory fresh GM part!!!
 
Originally Posted By: beast3300
Originally Posted By: Stu_Rock
Originally Posted By: beast3300
The oil pressure relief valve was changed in 2004 to allow higher oil pressure so they put 5w30 on the cap.
I am not so sure about that. GM lists the same part numbers for the spring and valve for all 3800s from 1985 to 2008. Of course, it could be a revised part number that fits in the older oil pump assemblies.
http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/products1.php?id=219&catid=109
I read that link as a performance upgrade for all 3800s--not a retrofit kit for 1985-2003 models--along with a recommendation to follow GM's 2004+ oil specification.
 
Interesting thread. Some amusing points made. Hopefully not all of them serious.

One interesting thing about this particular forum within BITOG (and why I rarely visit this part of the site anymore) is that the exact same questions can be posted, and depending on the first few responses (a lot of follow the leader on this part of the site), you can observe each similar thread reach a completely contradictory conclusion.

Personally I would run a 5W or 0W30 oil in your climate, and whether its energy conserving or not is often irrelevant (many HM oils, including QS HM, are not energy conserving or necessarily even API certified) so long as it meets your needs. But the last part of that sentence is what to focus on: what meets your needs.

Not being energy conserving or even API certified is a non-issue when the vehicle is out of warranty (as most engines HM oil is used in are) - if you know what's in the bottle and whether its appropriate for what you wish to achieve with it.

-Spyder
 
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Originally Posted By: jmac
I would like to know which high milage oils Spyder thinks are not API certified?


QS HM is not API certified. I have a few quarts I bought recently that are sitting in my stash and which contain no API symbol or mention of API certification. That is one, so its not what I'm "thinking", its what I know to be true. This is the newly labeled (and possibly formula tweaked) QS HM, and not something I found in a warehouse from 20 years ago.

-Spyder
 
Is that the QUAKER STATE® ENHANCED DURABILITY for HIGH MILAGE
ENGINES MOTOR OIL? as that is the only TDS I can find that doesn't list an API rating on it. If so that is unusual, as most will carry an API rating.
 
Originally Posted By: flatlandtacoma
Originally Posted By: Beagle2000
You guys do know your stuff on this site.
There are very few that know their stuff that post here anymore. Most just read "motor oil 101" and then start throwing out recommendations.
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