Little Engines, High RPM's......which oil????

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Originally Posted By: kr_bitog
PP or PU with 5K miles OCI will be great. On my experience with that driving pattern on this toyota, Amsoil/M1/PP does not last longer than 5k without noticeable noise/sluggishness.
It even shorter if you use aftermarket air filter.
Hoever, I haven't tried Motul 300V/Redline/LiquiMoly TopTech 4200 yet though.


I believe as you do.
A small engine is working hard to maintain your place in traffic
I use a syn oil PP or PU .

Smaller engines when driven aggressively will be working overtime.

Whoever said high RPMs doesn't mean an engine is working HARD needs a cup of coffee.
 
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I'd stick with a synthetic like PP or Synpower, changed every 7500 miles. Use whatever the manual recommends for viscosity or M1 0w30 as a good all-around oil. My Corolla, which sees mostly highway miles loves that stuff!
 
Originally Posted By: BigJohn
My daughter drives a Toyota Yaris with the 1.5l, inline 4. My son drives a Hyundai Accent with 1.6l, inline 4.

Both these cars, when running down Interstate 25 at 75-80 mph....are pushing 3,500-4,000 RPM's, for 60-100 miles.

For the past 5k miles, these two cars have had PP 5w20 and it seems to be doing good. But, these driving conditions seem pretty tough.

I suppose everyone would tell me to do an OCI....but I am wondering if I should be running a 30wt.

What are your thoughts?


I would call those ideal conditions and certainly not tough on those engines.

I'd consider Toyota's own 0W-20 brand, as it is a robust oil with superior start-up protection.
 
Indeed, non-high-speed highway (80 MPH and under is not high-speed) is the easiest thing on the engine and rest of the vehicle.
 
m1 10w30 & m1 0w30 AFE are not ideal for timing chain tensioner life... i would rethink that choice. i can go into more detail if you'd like but if you check on s2ki you'll see a lot of complaints about TCT failures...
 
If you want to use something thicker, go ahead! Any decent 30w will work fine. Given your cold winters, a 0w30 might be the perfect oil.

For guidance, find out what Toyota and Hyundai recommend for the same vehicles sold in Europe, Australia, etc. Try asking the members of a Yaris owners group. I suspect the manufacturers will specify a 0 or 5w30 in non-CAFE countries.

OTOH, there is no need to go thicker. Freeway speeds combing moderate RPM, which is good for oil film thickness, with modest bearing loads. Cruising on the freeway is not nearly as stressful as low rpm/high load, or near-redline conditions.
 
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Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: kr_bitog
They might have calibrated the ECU to run with xw-20 nowadays

No such thing as an ECU calibrated to oil viscosity grade (unless you're running an electric oil pump).


Originally Posted By: kr_bitog
but on the older one the 30 weight oil give better torque than 20 weight oil.

Based on what?


Have you heard about VVT-i and dyno before ?
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
My '04 S2000 is spinning 4300 RPM at 80 MPH and almost 5000 RPM at 90 MPH. The problem is the car feels better at higher speed, so that on highway I almost always drive above 80 MPH. The car is calling for dino 10W30 and that is what I'm using, I'm thinking to go down 1 grade to 5W20 or may be try M1 0W30, which is fairly thin for a 30 weight, on the next oil change. If I live near Death Valley and consistently drive at speed of 100+ MPH in summer, then I would stay with recommended weight of 10W30 or 5W40.

For your daughter Toyota Yaris and your son Hyundai Accent, I would stay with the recommended xW20.


I would agree that Honda engine is much easier on the oil compared to the 1NZ-FE Toyota. The mineral oil in my Honda can survives 5K without sweat with the same driving patern.
 
In general for street cars, my thinking is a lighter oil for high revs in a small engine, and thicker for a large engine at low RPM.
There are different needs. Less drag, better flow, and better cooling are with the thinner oils in modern small engines that rev high.
 
Agree.
And in the operation of any engine that's fully up to temperature,i.e., hot engine oil, the greatest chance of high engine wear will occur when operated under conditions of high load, low rpm or when lugging the engine when equiped with a manula transmission.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
In general for street cars, my thinking is a lighter oil for high revs in a small engine, and thicker for a large engine at low RPM.
There are different needs. Less drag, better flow, and better cooling are with the thinner oils in modern small engines that rev high.


Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Agree.
And in the operation of any engine that's fully up to temperature,i.e., hot engine oil, the greatest chance of high engine wear will occur when operated under conditions of high load, low rpm or when lugging the engine when equiped with a manual transmission.



That is shocking to me. I would have thought the exact opposite. Where my 4Runner (V6) is regularly plugging away at 1,600-2,200 RPMs...I would think a thinner oil would be better and those engines at 4k RPMs....would need a thicker oil.

But the more I think about it....the need to have thicker oil at the lower, torque'ier RPMs kinda makes sense.

Maybe I have this all backwards.....Maybe I need the PU 5w20 in the Yaris with an auto transmission and certainly a 30wt in the 4Runner.

Wonder about the manual transmission Accent though..... No question we lug that engine sometimes. Should we be in a 30wt with that engine?
 
My Corolla sees 3000+ RPM for hours a day.

OCI from 5k to 8k using 5w30 (my last OCI was 0w-30) mostly conventional oils and all is great at 168k on my way to 500k..
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UOA's have been excellent. Oil usage depending on oil has been consistent.

Having a engine that turns more RPM is not a problem if its designed for it. MY 1986 Jetta went 394k with never a single problem and it rev'd.

Take care, bill
 
If the engine runs 3-4k rpm at normal highway speeds, then the engine sure as heck has been designed for those rpms with respect to wear, cooling, etc. Why worry?
 
Originally Posted By: turbosix
m1 10w30 & m1 0w30 AFE are not ideal for timing chain tensioner life... i would rethink that choice. i can go into more detail if you'd like but if you check on s2ki you'll see a lot of complaints about TCT failures...



How so?
 
Finally had a pretty day around here, so we did the oil changes.

For the 2007 4.0L 4Runner, I poured in PU 5w20. Initial impressions are anti-climatic. Seems a little noisier than with 0w30 and a little rougher, but that was expected. The jury is completely out. Honestly, I am a little bummed....wish I would have stayed with a 30wt.

For the 2009 Accent, I poured in M1 0w30. Wow what an improvement over PP 5w20. My perceptions are....It is smoother, yet just as quick and as much power.

The daughters Yaris is out of town, so we will have to do it next weekend.
 
Originally Posted By: BigJohn
Maybe I need the PU 5w20 in the Yaris with an auto transmission and certainly a 30wt in the 4Runner.


Just realize that your Yaris is auto version, the auto have lower gearing so you run lower rpm for the same speed compared to manual. In this case less likely you hover around 4k rpm during highway driving, plus the auto is more gentle to the engine, so more likely you can go 7.5K OCI or beyond without any noticeable difference.
 
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