MolaKule
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Bump for the most recent discussion in OTC Oil Additives.
Laboratory Analysis of MMO
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Originally Posted by ChrisD46
At 4oz. per 10 gal. that comes out to 320:1 ratio ... At closer to 2 ~ 3 oz. per 10 gal would perhaps still give you a bit more lube in the E10 dry gas while not over doing it ?
*So would TC-W3 in a 640:1 ratio of oil to gas
At 4oz. per 10 gal. that comes out to 320:1 ratio ... At closer to 2 ~ 3 oz. per 10 gal would perhaps still give you a bit more lube in the E10 dry gas while not over doing it ?
*So would TC-W3 in a 640:1 ratio of oil to gas
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I just poured in 1 qt of MMO in a Chevy 2.0L GTDI (LTG) that has 93k miles. When I started maintaining the engine, it had 68k miles. The original/current owner said that the local Cadillac dealership had changed the oil since the car/engine was brand new in 2015. The Caddy dealer swore that semi-synthetic was all that was needed. Once the owner used up the free dealer oil changes, they had it changed at Belle Tire with Mobil 1 synthetic.
Opening the filler cap, I can see a thin layer of sludge around the fill port. The dipstick also had signs of sludge, and I had to clean off the sludge using brake cleaner. I've done 3 oil changes on it already, each time using Amsoil Signature Series 5w30. With fresh oil, the oil on the dipstick was clear amber. Just driving it a day after an oil change, the dipstick oil becomes pitch black. The engine uses up about 3-4 quarts every 7500 miles. I add about 2 quarts by 5000 miles.
BTW - E10 or E20 is often painted as an evil fuel, but for those with GTDI engines (like EcoBoost), running E30-E47 allows for running a lot more timing and boost as the alcohol allows for evaporative charge cooling which raises the effective octane well above pump gas ratings. If you are running a tuned EcoBoost or tuned GTDI engine and sticking with 93 octane, you are leaving a lot on the table. The Bosch DI systems (HPFP and injectors) are generally designed to run up to E100/14% methanol, and most of the Fords share the same fuel tanks as their flex fuel counterparts. FWIW my dad still uses the regular E10 pump gas for his 1980s Craftsman lawnmower without any problems.
Opening the filler cap, I can see a thin layer of sludge around the fill port. The dipstick also had signs of sludge, and I had to clean off the sludge using brake cleaner. I've done 3 oil changes on it already, each time using Amsoil Signature Series 5w30. With fresh oil, the oil on the dipstick was clear amber. Just driving it a day after an oil change, the dipstick oil becomes pitch black. The engine uses up about 3-4 quarts every 7500 miles. I add about 2 quarts by 5000 miles.
BTW - E10 or E20 is often painted as an evil fuel, but for those with GTDI engines (like EcoBoost), running E30-E47 allows for running a lot more timing and boost as the alcohol allows for evaporative charge cooling which raises the effective octane well above pump gas ratings. If you are running a tuned EcoBoost or tuned GTDI engine and sticking with 93 octane, you are leaving a lot on the table. The Bosch DI systems (HPFP and injectors) are generally designed to run up to E100/14% methanol, and most of the Fords share the same fuel tanks as their flex fuel counterparts. FWIW my dad still uses the regular E10 pump gas for his 1980s Craftsman lawnmower without any problems.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
My Hyundai 2.4 GDI runs no better on 93, versus 87 octane.
But our Kia 2.0 Multi-Port F.I. shows noticeably better gas pedal response on red-to-green light acceleration with 93.
I only use Shell, Mobil or BP top-tier gasoline
But our Kia 2.0 Multi-Port F.I. shows noticeably better gas pedal response on red-to-green light acceleration with 93.
I only use Shell, Mobil or BP top-tier gasoline
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
So would MMO thin down an oil grade if you're adding a few ounces to an OCI?
Depends on how thin that oil is to begin with and how much MMO is added.
So would MMO thin down an oil grade if you're adding a few ounces to an OCI?
Depends on how thin that oil is to begin with and how much MMO is added.
Originally Posted by metroplex
I just poured in 1 qt of MMO in a Chevy 2.0L GTDI (LTG) that has 93k miles. When I started maintaining the engine, it had 68k miles. The original/current owner said that the local Cadillac dealership had changed the oil since the car/engine was brand new in 2015. The Caddy dealer swore that semi-synthetic was all that was needed. Once the owner used up the free dealer oil changes, they had it changed at Belle Tire with Mobil 1 synthetic.
Opening the filler cap, I can see a thin layer of sludge around the fill port. The dipstick also had signs of sludge, and I had to clean off the sludge using brake cleaner. I've done 3 oil changes on it already, each time using Amsoil Signature Series 5w30. With fresh oil, the oil on the dipstick was clear amber. Just driving it a day after an oil change, the dipstick oil becomes pitch black. The engine uses up about 3-4 quarts every 7500 miles. I add about 2 quarts by 5000 miles.
BTW - E10 or E20 is often painted as an evil fuel, but for those with GTDI engines (like EcoBoost), running E30-E47 allows for running a lot more timing and boost as the alcohol allows for evaporative charge cooling which raises the effective octane well above pump gas ratings. If you are running a tuned EcoBoost or tuned GTDI engine and sticking with 93 octane, you are leaving a lot on the table. The Bosch DI systems (HPFP and injectors) are generally designed to run up to E100/14% methanol, and most of the Fords share the same fuel tanks as their flex fuel counterparts. FWIW my dad still uses the regular E10 pump gas for his 1980s Craftsman lawnmower without any problems.
Anybody around here that uses e10 in their outdoor power equipment regrets it after one or 2 seasons. I have pictures of the inside of my father in law's lawnmower to prove it plus tests have been done that showed the same result. Even a couple different fuel stabilizers tested didn't prevent e10 from going bad while sitting in the test I saw recently. I'd like to see more fuel stabilizers tested though to see of them have any effect.
...Which reminds me I need to go help my coworker drain the fuel out of his snowblower and see if we can get it to run again. The carb is probably destroyed inside already, but fingers crossed.
I just poured in 1 qt of MMO in a Chevy 2.0L GTDI (LTG) that has 93k miles. When I started maintaining the engine, it had 68k miles. The original/current owner said that the local Cadillac dealership had changed the oil since the car/engine was brand new in 2015. The Caddy dealer swore that semi-synthetic was all that was needed. Once the owner used up the free dealer oil changes, they had it changed at Belle Tire with Mobil 1 synthetic.
Opening the filler cap, I can see a thin layer of sludge around the fill port. The dipstick also had signs of sludge, and I had to clean off the sludge using brake cleaner. I've done 3 oil changes on it already, each time using Amsoil Signature Series 5w30. With fresh oil, the oil on the dipstick was clear amber. Just driving it a day after an oil change, the dipstick oil becomes pitch black. The engine uses up about 3-4 quarts every 7500 miles. I add about 2 quarts by 5000 miles.
BTW - E10 or E20 is often painted as an evil fuel, but for those with GTDI engines (like EcoBoost), running E30-E47 allows for running a lot more timing and boost as the alcohol allows for evaporative charge cooling which raises the effective octane well above pump gas ratings. If you are running a tuned EcoBoost or tuned GTDI engine and sticking with 93 octane, you are leaving a lot on the table. The Bosch DI systems (HPFP and injectors) are generally designed to run up to E100/14% methanol, and most of the Fords share the same fuel tanks as their flex fuel counterparts. FWIW my dad still uses the regular E10 pump gas for his 1980s Craftsman lawnmower without any problems.
Anybody around here that uses e10 in their outdoor power equipment regrets it after one or 2 seasons. I have pictures of the inside of my father in law's lawnmower to prove it plus tests have been done that showed the same result. Even a couple different fuel stabilizers tested didn't prevent e10 from going bad while sitting in the test I saw recently. I'd like to see more fuel stabilizers tested though to see of them have any effect.
...Which reminds me I need to go help my coworker drain the fuel out of his snowblower and see if we can get it to run again. The carb is probably destroyed inside already, but fingers crossed.
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Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Anybody around here that uses e10 in their outdoor power equipment regrets it after one or 2 seasons. I have pictures of the inside of my father in law's lawnmower to prove it plus tests have been done that showed the same result. Even a couple different fuel stabilizers tested didn't prevent e10 from going bad while sitting in the test I saw recently. I'd like to see more fuel stabilizers tested though to see of them have any effect.
While some people have a horse shoe up their rear it doesn't convince me to take the same chance . Which reminds me I need to go help my coworker drain the fuel out of his snowblower and see if we can get it to run again. The carb is probably destroyed inside already, but fingers crossed.
When people make these kinds of posts I really just don't understand that. I live in southeastern Wisconsin which is an EPA nonattainment area and we've only been able to purchase RFG since the early 90s. No E0 here anywhere in this six county area, not even at the Milwaukee marina. I have a 28 year old lawn mower, a 20 year old garden tractor, snow thrower and chain saw, and an old weed trimmer. All of them have run on E10 (probably MBTE RFG in the beginning) and none of them are "destroyed" inside, in fact all are running just fine. I don't always drain out he leftover fuel after the winter/summer season either, sometimes I do but lately not so much (neither do I use any sort of fuel stabilizer). I had a carb bowl gasket leak on the lawnmower about 10 years ago and so far that's been about it. So bottom like either you and your father buy some pretty cheap OPE or you're not taking care of it in some way I can't understand.
I'm not a fan of RFG, I'd rather have the higher BTU content of E0. But I also just do not see these hideous problems you're describing. I also don't have a horse shoe up my rear, whatever the heck that is supposed to symbolize.
Anybody around here that uses e10 in their outdoor power equipment regrets it after one or 2 seasons. I have pictures of the inside of my father in law's lawnmower to prove it plus tests have been done that showed the same result. Even a couple different fuel stabilizers tested didn't prevent e10 from going bad while sitting in the test I saw recently. I'd like to see more fuel stabilizers tested though to see of them have any effect.
While some people have a horse shoe up their rear it doesn't convince me to take the same chance . Which reminds me I need to go help my coworker drain the fuel out of his snowblower and see if we can get it to run again. The carb is probably destroyed inside already, but fingers crossed.
When people make these kinds of posts I really just don't understand that. I live in southeastern Wisconsin which is an EPA nonattainment area and we've only been able to purchase RFG since the early 90s. No E0 here anywhere in this six county area, not even at the Milwaukee marina. I have a 28 year old lawn mower, a 20 year old garden tractor, snow thrower and chain saw, and an old weed trimmer. All of them have run on E10 (probably MBTE RFG in the beginning) and none of them are "destroyed" inside, in fact all are running just fine. I don't always drain out he leftover fuel after the winter/summer season either, sometimes I do but lately not so much (neither do I use any sort of fuel stabilizer). I had a carb bowl gasket leak on the lawnmower about 10 years ago and so far that's been about it. So bottom like either you and your father buy some pretty cheap OPE or you're not taking care of it in some way I can't understand.
I'm not a fan of RFG, I'd rather have the higher BTU content of E0. But I also just do not see these hideous problems you're describing. I also don't have a horse shoe up my rear, whatever the heck that is supposed to symbolize.
Originally Posted by metroplex
I just poured in 1 qt of MMO in a Chevy 2.0L GTDI (LTG) that has 93k miles. I've done 3 oil changes on it already, each time using Amsoil Signature Series 5w30.
Not sure why you think diluting a $12/qt, specially-formulated, proven, synthetic oil with a great track record with a $4/qt 80-year old formula oil additive that literally adds nothing to the oil you poured it in makes sense, but enjoy
I just poured in 1 qt of MMO in a Chevy 2.0L GTDI (LTG) that has 93k miles. I've done 3 oil changes on it already, each time using Amsoil Signature Series 5w30.
Not sure why you think diluting a $12/qt, specially-formulated, proven, synthetic oil with a great track record with a $4/qt 80-year old formula oil additive that literally adds nothing to the oil you poured it in makes sense, but enjoy
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Originally Posted by metroplex
I just poured in 1 qt of MMO in a Chevy 2.0L GTDI (LTG) that has 93k miles. I've done 3 oil changes on it already, each time using Amsoil Signature Series 5w30.
Not sure why you think diluting a $12/qt, specially-formulated, proven, synthetic oil with a great track record with a $4/qt 80-year old formula oil additive that literally adds nothing to the oil you poured it in makes sense, but enjoy
Maybe he likes his $12/qt Amsoil to smell more like wintergreen......just saying !🥴...³ðŸ¤£
Originally Posted by metroplex
I just poured in 1 qt of MMO in a Chevy 2.0L GTDI (LTG) that has 93k miles. I've done 3 oil changes on it already, each time using Amsoil Signature Series 5w30.
Not sure why you think diluting a $12/qt, specially-formulated, proven, synthetic oil with a great track record with a $4/qt 80-year old formula oil additive that literally adds nothing to the oil you poured it in makes sense, but enjoy
Maybe he likes his $12/qt Amsoil to smell more like wintergreen......just saying !🥴...³ðŸ¤£
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
COLD WEATHER STARTS
ADDED TO ENGINE OIL: Add Marvel Mystery Oil to up to 20% of crankcase capacity to improve oil flow and prevent oil thickening in sub-zero temperatures.ADDED TO FUEL: At every fill-up add 4 ounces of Marvel Ultimate Oil to every 10 gallons of gas or diesel. An average passenger car tank is 15 gallons, so you would add 6 ounces at every fill-up. Regular use can lead to improved fuel economy.
From their site^^^
Not a full grade but close.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
Something sounds very strange. I can tell you that the oil turning black fast like that means a couple things. #1- the Amsoil is actually started cleaning out some of that goop/gunk just like many of today's modern oils can do. (**PLEASE** boutique oil haters lets not start a big thing about who/what/which oils clean better?**) #2- Since your car is drinking (not leaking right?) save some green and stop using the Amsoil. Having to add that amount of oil is a tough pill in just 5000 miles. I do not believe the previous owner took as good care of that engine as he said or thought he did and I seriously doubt they used Mobil 1 Synthetic oil each oci. Hard to accept someone used that quality product and you still ending up with a badly gunked engine + using 2 qts between oci. Dealer either lied to him or ??? I dont any one who used Mobil 1 syn oil and came away with a gunked , goooey engine. So, not your fault and all you can do now is try to manage it. Since you live in a high temp climate, I would bump to 10w40 Mobil 1 Super Hi mileage (blend) flavor for the next oci and then check it weekly to see if it keeps going black as fast and if it keeps using as much oil. Take a clean rag and wipe out your tail pipe/pipes if dual and see what that looks like. Nothing to lose trying that oil and you can save the extra cost of the Amsoil (which I have used for years and still use in one of our cars to this day). Just it costs so much to be going thru 2 additional qts between oci, especially if you end up needing money for engine repair work later. Good luck with it. Oh and I noticed you said you added MMO into the engine. Is that still in the engine at this time? If so you should really see some black gunk come out next drain. I would drain that out within about 250-300mi just in case it knocks a lot of goo out and restricts the filter. MMO is a really good cleaner that I have used in fuel for many years but only had one time/reason to put it in my engine oil. I had a badly gunked engine one time in the late 70s after using Quaker State 10w40. Pulled valve covers to replace leaking gasket I found when installing headers on a short block Chevy. The engine looked like it had been intentionally coated in plastic or wax. MMO cleaned a lot of that stuff out over the course of about 10,000. Dont really have a need to use it anymore.
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It's been several years and I haven't kept in touch with that person. We did a road trip during 2019 driving something like 20k miles all around the US, and I remember having to buy quarts of Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic to fill every couple of thousand miles. No exterior leaks at all, just straight up burns it out. During a hot start sometimes the engine will throw out a puff of black smoke (not blue) and no noticeable blue smoke during WOT acceleration (I've driven behind this car in the past to check the exhaust).
I suspect there was piston damage due to LSPI at some point in that engine's life. This was a known issue for early LTG engines.
So add MMO and Lucas Stabilizer both and sleep well?
Take a breath, Sammy. Use some paragraphs. Have a great Memorial Day weekend!
MolaKule
Staff member
I see no efficacy in adding MMO to fuel since we don't have leaded fuels.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
Thanks. Have not used MMO in years for anything though I knew folks who cleaned tools and equipment with it.
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