kawasaki engine oil
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This is what I use and it's about four bucks a quart.
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I run Rotella 5w40 in my Kawasaki mower. Thats what the dealer told me to use????
Been running Rotella 15/40 conv. for 9 years in my Kaw 691/Hustler SD54 down here on the gulf coast.
Same oil in my V Twin 999 home generators(8 years), the same oil in Mercury 4S outboards(12 years)
Same oil in my V Twin 999 home generators(8 years), the same oil in Mercury 4S outboards(12 years)
Zee09
$200 Site Donor 2023
The easiest choice is what @Freischneider posted . Price is good too
To answer the 5w-40 question Spartan Mowers come shipped with T6 5w-40 from the factory.
ASF would be excellent choice no need for 5w anything unless you plan on mowing in 0F temps, depending on temperature you may want to go with 15w50 SEF
Any XW40 will be fine. My Kawasaki powered John Deere usually gets T6, Delvac 1 or whatever I have leftover from the truck or big JD.
I would recommend any HDEO 15w40. Easy to find, cheap, and works well. I've run it in quite a few Kawasaki powered commercial mowers.
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Just purchased a slightly used (less than 6 hours) Gravely ZT HD44 zero turn with Kawasaki FR651V motor.
The Gravely manual list a Gravely 15w50 synthetic with zinc for use in both the motor and Hydraulic drives.
Kawasaki sells a 15W50 synthetic with zinc.
Will the Kawasaki version work in both motor and hyd drives ?
The Gravely manual list a Gravely 15w50 synthetic with zinc for use in both the motor and Hydraulic drives.
Kawasaki sells a 15W50 synthetic with zinc.
Will the Kawasaki version work in both motor and hyd drives ?
Depending on how hard you run it use an oil that ends with 40 or 50. Probably need a 40.
Where do you find it for $4 a quart?
This is what I use in mine. I have Valvoline premium blue 15w-40 in it now, doesn’t burn a drop of oil.
Mobil 1 15W-50 in the engine and hydros...Nothing to worry about.
M1 15W-50 if you are in a hot climate. Rotella T6 5W-40 in cooler locations.
I used 0w40 M1 for years in my old Kawasaki, only thing that kept it going 23 years as I never cleaned out the cooling fins and it eventually had exhaust valve issues. The new one will get 5w40 M1 next spring. It got broke in on 5w30HM Citgo Full synthetic (didn't notice it was HM when I filled). Hasn't used a drop of oil with 30 or so hrs on it. It does run hot at 220F+ after a 1.5 hr mow.
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Thought I’d post this reply from Blackstone Labs—(Gravely recommends 15w50 synthetic with zinc)
Good question.
It's hard to give you a clear answer in this case. That's because engine oil and THF (tractor hydraulic fluid) looks similar in analysis. The main difference between 15W/50 and most THFs is the viscosity. THF is usually thinner - in the 10W or 20W range, so that might make a difference in the hydraulic drives.
If the hydraulic system's specs show 15W/50 is okay, then the oil should work well. If not, there might be something in the oil that we can't see in our analysis, which might make a difference, but otherwise, the oil should work well.
If we tested 20W engine oil and 20W THF, the results are often very similar.
Generally speaking, it's best to use what the manufacturer suggests, but it isn't always necessary.
I would try testing the Kawasaki oil and the used oil currently in the hydraulic system to see how the additive elements compare. If the results are similar and no issues are suspected based on the data, then give the Kawasaki oil a try to see how it performs. If the additives are obviously different or if we find anything concerning, then I would hold off on experimenting, just to play it safe.
Thank you,
Good question.
It's hard to give you a clear answer in this case. That's because engine oil and THF (tractor hydraulic fluid) looks similar in analysis. The main difference between 15W/50 and most THFs is the viscosity. THF is usually thinner - in the 10W or 20W range, so that might make a difference in the hydraulic drives.
If the hydraulic system's specs show 15W/50 is okay, then the oil should work well. If not, there might be something in the oil that we can't see in our analysis, which might make a difference, but otherwise, the oil should work well.
If we tested 20W engine oil and 20W THF, the results are often very similar.
Generally speaking, it's best to use what the manufacturer suggests, but it isn't always necessary.
I would try testing the Kawasaki oil and the used oil currently in the hydraulic system to see how the additive elements compare. If the results are similar and no issues are suspected based on the data, then give the Kawasaki oil a try to see how it performs. If the additives are obviously different or if we find anything concerning, then I would hold off on experimenting, just to play it safe.
Thank you,
The JD F510 has a single motor/hydraulic drive unit. It's speced for 5,10w30,40 but I don't think back then there was much known as now. The oil ran really hot. Upper 200Fs after a two hour mow in 90F. I put an oil cooler on it and brought that down considerably to around 220F max. They share the oil but it is somehow segregated. When draining it only about 2/3s comes out.
But when the oil was that hot I could tell I lost speed compared to colder oil.
But when the oil was that hot I could tell I lost speed compared to colder oil.
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There's a sweet young thing that works at the mower shop that hooks me up.
I used the 10w40 ASF for 140 hours and it worked great in my FR731V. When I drained it I went with HPL Small Engine Life 10w40. Either oil will suit you well, as will some of the others mentioned.
