Thinking of switching back to paper filters over my currently installed k&n filter.After reading the debates over these filters I am now kind of concerned about having a k&n on my lincoln mark viii.I would rather be safe than sorry so im not worried about losing out on the money spent on the k&n.My question is, what do you all recommend?
K&N Concerns
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on my conti, vic and expy i went with motorcraft paper restriction was only 1.5 psid k&n is 1.3 not much difference..
I think the K&N wear thing is overblown.I ran one for 130K and saw no wear upon engine teardown*timing chain}Its benifits are also overblown.The replacement elements have never made any difference in anything I have put them in.Do what makes you comfortable,but I would just keep the K&N oiled up every 10k,as you have already paid for it.
A K&N drop-in has filtered fine on my Neon for many thousands of miles, *but* the car never sees any dirt roads. I have a paper filter installed right now.
How much of your driving is on dirt/gravel roads? If even a little bit, regularly, then a paper filter may be a very good idea. If you're on pavement all the time, it probably won't make much difference.
How much of your driving is on dirt/gravel roads? If even a little bit, regularly, then a paper filter may be a very good idea. If you're on pavement all the time, it probably won't make much difference.
ive had k&n's on multiple vehicles i have owned in the past, but now i just stick to regular paper filters. the potential gains from the k&n just arent worth the potential risks it poses on your vehicle. the only car i do not regret putting a k&n on is my old mitsubishi eclipse gsx, because the difference was night and day. very noticiable gain in power.
If you want to keep it you can run two tests
1. look at the intake after the K&N and if you see anything you can skip 2.
2. UOA the oil and check the silicon. It's a good all around annual test anyway for coolant and you actually know whether to go paper. You basically are out only another $20 since the K&N is already a sunk cost so maybe you'll save $15 every two years if silicon is low.
1. look at the intake after the K&N and if you see anything you can skip 2.
2. UOA the oil and check the silicon. It's a good all around annual test anyway for coolant and you actually know whether to go paper. You basically are out only another $20 since the K&N is already a sunk cost so maybe you'll save $15 every two years if silicon is low.
ditto Stuart Hughes
A good quick test is to see if there is any dirt/dust in the intake manifold, downstream of the K+N.
Some people put a dab of grease in the manifold to act as a dust checker.
A good quick test is to see if there is any dirt/dust in the intake manifold, downstream of the K+N.
Some people put a dab of grease in the manifold to act as a dust checker.
I have had a K&N on my Bronco for many years, and it seems to be filtering well. I regularly check the carb venturies with a Kleenex tissure, and it always shows clean.
After replacing the stock paper filter with the K&N, I immediately noticed the idle increased slightly (this is on a carbed engine). This told me the K&N did indeed have less restriction than paper. So as long as it performs well and dosen't admit dust, I'm keeping mine.....
After replacing the stock paper filter with the K&N, I immediately noticed the idle increased slightly (this is on a carbed engine). This told me the K&N did indeed have less restriction than paper. So as long as it performs well and dosen't admit dust, I'm keeping mine.....
Please make your own decision, and ignore most K&N threads here. As you've read the endless debates, they go no where, and all end up the same (usually 'locked'). Everyone has their opinion, and is titled to it. While I have used K&N for 11 years, I have never kept a vehicle past 30K, or done an UOA. I continue to run them. Is my experience helpful? No. Has anyone have a confirmed engine failure from a K&N? Probably not. Would have you even asked this question before you joined this site? Probably not. Results vary per user, and per application -- just like any product you buy.
It was said above: "I would just keep the K&N oiled up every 10k,as you have already paid for it."
Absolutely not. While you MIGHT have to oil it every 10,000 miles if you drive NOTHING but dusty roads, normally you can run it a LOT longer than that between oilings. Here's the K&N website cleaning instructions. No. 12 of the instructions addresses miles between cleanings. When you oil it, oil ONLY the side that the air hits. Do not oil (or also oil) the other side.
http://www.knfilters.com/clningins.htm
Absolutely not. While you MIGHT have to oil it every 10,000 miles if you drive NOTHING but dusty roads, normally you can run it a LOT longer than that between oilings. Here's the K&N website cleaning instructions. No. 12 of the instructions addresses miles between cleanings. When you oil it, oil ONLY the side that the air hits. Do not oil (or also oil) the other side.
http://www.knfilters.com/clningins.htm
I'd test the oil before I threw out the K&N if I already had one. It comes down to what works in your car. It isn't what K&N says or K&N bashers say- just check for silicon and be done with it.
I just got a UOA back that showed coolant leak but I checked silicon on the report to see how the fit of my paper filter is/ health of the 167K air intake plastic/rubber.
I just got a UOA back that showed coolant leak but I checked silicon on the report to see how the fit of my paper filter is/ health of the 167K air intake plastic/rubber.
m2200b wrote >
> I'd test the oil before I threw out the K&N if > I already had one. It comes down to what works > in your car. It isn't what K&N says or K&N
> bashers say- just check for silicon and be done > with it.
Really, the only way to tell if your motor is ingesting dirt is by doing a UOA?
I didn't realize that all dirt that may enter my motor will all be deposited in my oil crankcase.
Regards,
Rich
> I'd test the oil before I threw out the K&N if > I already had one. It comes down to what works > in your car. It isn't what K&N says or K&N
> bashers say- just check for silicon and be done > with it.
Really, the only way to tell if your motor is ingesting dirt is by doing a UOA?
I didn't realize that all dirt that may enter my motor will all be deposited in my oil crankcase.
Regards,
Rich
It goes through the cylinder combustion, and out the tailpipe. In fact, I think that's where most dirt particles do go that enter the intake. That's an easier path than having to get past the piston rings.
TheLoneRanger >
> It goes through the cylinder combustion, and out
> the tailpipe. In fact, I think that's where most
> dirt particles do go that enter the intake. That's
> an easier path than having to get past the piston
> rings.
Exactly, so not all dirt will end up in the oil to be detected in a UOA. So, dirt can pass all the way through, or get stuck in the cats, load up the rings, valve seals, valve seats, join carbon in the combustion chamber, you name it. Ending up in the oil is just one possibility.
Anyone relying strictly on UOAs to indicate the effectiveness of their air filter is kidding themselves in my opinion. Sure, it may give you an idea of how much dirt is getting into the oil, but it doesn't address all the other possible areas the dirt may be lodging and all the potential damage that may be occurring in the dirt getting to the oil.
Regards,
Rich
> It goes through the cylinder combustion, and out
> the tailpipe. In fact, I think that's where most
> dirt particles do go that enter the intake. That's
> an easier path than having to get past the piston
> rings.
Exactly, so not all dirt will end up in the oil to be detected in a UOA. So, dirt can pass all the way through, or get stuck in the cats, load up the rings, valve seals, valve seats, join carbon in the combustion chamber, you name it. Ending up in the oil is just one possibility.
Anyone relying strictly on UOAs to indicate the effectiveness of their air filter is kidding themselves in my opinion. Sure, it may give you an idea of how much dirt is getting into the oil, but it doesn't address all the other possible areas the dirt may be lodging and all the potential damage that may be occurring in the dirt getting to the oil.
Regards,
Rich
However, there is still a correlation between the dirt and in the oil, and the dirt elsewhere. It is highly unlikely that one will be completely clean while the other contains large amounts of dirt particles. So, even though the amount of dirt getting into the oil may be small it still correlates with the amount of dirt elsewhere, so it is possible to test the effectiveness of a filter if multiple types are used and compared on your vehicle. So, look at the numbers with a paper filter...then those with the K&N...then go from their.
I am not sure that made sense, I am rather tired and have been eating to much chocolate
I am not sure that made sense, I am rather tired and have been eating to much chocolate
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