Started my 06 Craftsman fs5500 last weekend and noticed something was not right, upon starting it wanted to die untill i idled it up, once warm it was popping and a few mild (what sounded like backfires) when i throttled it up all the way it ran fairly smooth, but still felt like there was a mild miss to it, over the week i mixed my half full tank with the highest octain i could find and mixed a little seafoam in it, after a few minutes of running this seemed to improve the problem but not solve it. This year i changed the plugs, and replaced the fuel filter at the start of the season.. ran perfect.. the only thing i can think of is i filled the gas tank on the mower after my last cut and this problem started when i went to use the mower the next week. does this just sound like bad gas ? opinions appreciated.
just developed a miss..
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Can you drain the carb float bowl?
Sounds like after you filled it the last time it sucked in a bit of dirt past the fuel filter. Loosening the nut on the fuel bowl and letting that drain out and re-fill will most likely do the trick.
Try that and go from there.
Try that and go from there.
Did you install the fuel filter with correct orientation? Look to see if there's a arrow on the filter indicating direction of fuel flow. If that's OK, as per previous instructions, pull the fuel bowl and inspect.
Also, make sure your spark plug leads are on tight.
Also, make sure your spark plug leads are on tight.
You know, there are so many "safety features" on recent vintage mowers that are designed to shut down the motor, that any time it acts up, you can no longer assume that the cause of the problem is on the motor itself. On my new mower there are interlocks on the blade engagement, brake, reverse switch, and seat. Any one of them can shut the motor off. An intermittent failure in any one of them, or in the wiring harness, or in the connectors, can do so too. It makes troubleshooting a "miss" situation like this a real nightmare.
Study your wiring diagram and see if there's one place where you can disconnect the "kill" (this may also disable the key switch shutoff, depending on how the ignition system is designed) signal to the motor. Then see if the problem goes away.
Study your wiring diagram and see if there's one place where you can disconnect the "kill" (this may also disable the key switch shutoff, depending on how the ignition system is designed) signal to the motor. Then see if the problem goes away.
when i purchased the mower last year the seat safet switch had been disabled, this year i months ago when istalling the new fuel filter i followed the arrow, Ran flawless.. ran flawless durrning this next to last cut, pulled in the garage and filled tank... restarted following week with a miss.. thats why im so sure its a fuel problem, this isnt bad enuff you cant cut with it, when warmed it still runs decent, you can just feel what seems to be a miss..
Clean the carb..
If it's an interlock switch it will usually shut off, or just won't start..
If it's an interlock switch it will usually shut off, or just won't start..
Originally Posted By: FNFAL308
Clean the carb..
If it's an interlock switch it will usually shut off, or just won't start..
ok, when the weather cools down under 90' i will dig into it.. do ya'll think this should be a complete removal and carb tear down or just spray some cleaner through it ?
Clean the carb..
If it's an interlock switch it will usually shut off, or just won't start..
ok, when the weather cools down under 90' i will dig into it.. do ya'll think this should be a complete removal and carb tear down or just spray some cleaner through it ?
If it where mine the carb comes off and gets done the right way. Sometimes you'll get lucky and the easy fix works but it will more often then not come back to bite you..
It's not a bad job at all.. Just pull it off, clean it and then you'll know for sure it was done right..
It's not a bad job at all.. Just pull it off, clean it and then you'll know for sure it was done right..
Fuel additives and supposed spray through carb cleaners will not cure fuel contamination. Particularly, dirt in the float bowl. Physical cleaning is the only way to do it. Pull every jet and screw, probe/run through with a thin wire (garbage bag tie with paper/plastic peeled off), rinse out with WD40, blow out with compressed air. Inspect/clean float bowl.
If the carb was running well prior to the fuel problem and has adjustable jets or screw that effect carb operation, screw them in carefully counting and recording how many turns required to seat them. When re-installing seat screw gently to bottom then back them off to the original setting.
If the carb was running well prior to the fuel problem and has adjustable jets or screw that effect carb operation, screw them in carefully counting and recording how many turns required to seat them. When re-installing seat screw gently to bottom then back them off to the original setting.
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Fuel additives and supposed spray through carb cleaners will not cure fuel contamination. Particularly, dirt in the float bowl. Physical cleaning is the only way to do it. Pull every jet and screw, probe/run through with a thin wire (garbage bag tie with paper/plastic peeled off), rinse out with WD40, blow out with compressed air. Inspect/clean float bowl.
If the carb was running well prior to the fuel problem and has adjustable jets or screw that effect carb operation, screw them in carefully counting and recording how many turns required to seat them. When re-installing seat screw gently to bottom then back them off to the original setting.
this is good, and what id normally do to a high miliage bike with fuel issues .. Im thinking if there is a drain on the float bowl, i may try that first, if not just remove the bowl and clean it out. coupled with a fresh filter and a healthy dose of carb cleaner.. this machine has approximately 120 hours on it.
Fuel additives and supposed spray through carb cleaners will not cure fuel contamination. Particularly, dirt in the float bowl. Physical cleaning is the only way to do it. Pull every jet and screw, probe/run through with a thin wire (garbage bag tie with paper/plastic peeled off), rinse out with WD40, blow out with compressed air. Inspect/clean float bowl.
If the carb was running well prior to the fuel problem and has adjustable jets or screw that effect carb operation, screw them in carefully counting and recording how many turns required to seat them. When re-installing seat screw gently to bottom then back them off to the original setting.
this is good, and what id normally do to a high miliage bike with fuel issues .. Im thinking if there is a drain on the float bowl, i may try that first, if not just remove the bowl and clean it out. coupled with a fresh filter and a healthy dose of carb cleaner.. this machine has approximately 120 hours on it.
Originally Posted By: gd9704
BEFORE tearing into a carb I always try a healthy dose of Chevron Techron in the fuel(available at Wally world and auto parts stores.)
That stuff is great and has never let me down.
i keep (bottles) of this stuff on my shelf.. always stock up when i catch it on sale.. my silverado always gets a few bottle at OCI's im deffinately a fan.
BEFORE tearing into a carb I always try a healthy dose of Chevron Techron in the fuel(available at Wally world and auto parts stores.)
That stuff is great and has never let me down.
i keep (bottles) of this stuff on my shelf.. always stock up when i catch it on sale.. my silverado always gets a few bottle at OCI's im deffinately a fan.
Many of these carbs do NOT have drains and removing the bowl on the machine is not much easier then just removing the carb.
Another potential issue is trying th get the bowl back on with the gasket properly positioned so the carb doess not leak.
I don't like short cuts but I do this for $$.. I guess as long as your time has no value then the "EASY" fix is worth a try I suppose but in my experience it's a bandaid at best. By the time someone drives to WALLYWORLD for some alleged fuel system cleaner, an dthen drives back I can have many carbs off, cleaned and reinstalled especially if it's just a single cyl garden tractor.
Another potential issue is trying th get the bowl back on with the gasket properly positioned so the carb doess not leak.
I don't like short cuts but I do this for $$.. I guess as long as your time has no value then the "EASY" fix is worth a try I suppose but in my experience it's a bandaid at best. By the time someone drives to WALLYWORLD for some alleged fuel system cleaner, an dthen drives back I can have many carbs off, cleaned and reinstalled especially if it's just a single cyl garden tractor.
Originally Posted By: FNFAL308
Many of these carbs do NOT have drains and removing the bowl on the machine is not much easier then just removing the carb.
Another potential issue is trying th get the bowl back on with the gasket properly positioned so the carb doess not leak.
I don't like short cuts but I do this for $$.. I guess as long as your time has no value then the "EASY" fix is worth a try I suppose but in my experience it's a bandaid at best. By the time someone drives to WALLYWORLD for some alleged fuel system cleaner, an dthen drives back I can have many carbs off, cleaned and reinstalled especially if it's just a single cyl garden tractor.
its a twin, and the carbs burried up front.. never actualy seen the carb yet.. Im going to toy with it this weekend, i will post what i do and what happens next week.
Many of these carbs do NOT have drains and removing the bowl on the machine is not much easier then just removing the carb.
Another potential issue is trying th get the bowl back on with the gasket properly positioned so the carb doess not leak.
I don't like short cuts but I do this for $$.. I guess as long as your time has no value then the "EASY" fix is worth a try I suppose but in my experience it's a bandaid at best. By the time someone drives to WALLYWORLD for some alleged fuel system cleaner, an dthen drives back I can have many carbs off, cleaned and reinstalled especially if it's just a single cyl garden tractor.
its a twin, and the carbs burried up front.. never actualy seen the carb yet.. Im going to toy with it this weekend, i will post what i do and what happens next week.
It's a little daunting at first but you will see it aint so bad once ya get into it..
Don't even try to take the carb off, remove the entire intake/carb assy..
It's a bit easier with the correct size TORX bit but can be done with a socket if that's what's available.
Make sure you clean the fuel solenoid while your there.. If'n ya run into a snag along the way just take a PIC and I'll try and help..
Don't even try to take the carb off, remove the entire intake/carb assy..
It's a bit easier with the correct size TORX bit but can be done with a socket if that's what's available.
Make sure you clean the fuel solenoid while your there.. If'n ya run into a snag along the way just take a PIC and I'll try and help..
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well between overtime at work and spinning wrenches on my truck i never got to the mower, i have a good handfull of tools (torx bits included).. i looked a little closer at that front end.. that sucker is burried in there, it looks like a several hour job pulling it all and after cleaning putting it back together.. I did however put the trickle charger on it.. havent started it in two weeks (the heat and no rain) havent needed to cut grass.. whats the shop rate for a carb cleaning ??? LMAO... thanks for offering your help, i may need more advice on this thing before its all over..
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