Jeep GC brake caliper "Teves "seize up question

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Any one with a jeep WJ GC 99-2002 knowing their brake caliper made from Teves is junk and seize up when hard use.

do you just replace the one that seize up or replace both ? , I recently did brake pad and turn rotor 4 month ago, and now my front right brake caliper is seize up and mess up my rotor ( steering wheel sake when high speed brake, and smoking coming out from it ). I did some search while ago and most say upgrade to AKEBONO brake caliper. and give me the guy name to contact, he charge me $500 for whole kit. include new design brake caliper, rotor and brake pad. I ask him can he just give me price on caliper, and he convince me to buy whole kit and refused give me price on just caliper. this is why i look for another way.

my main concern it, should I replace both or just the one that seize up.

and cheap way and save moneys i was plan is buy one at AAP brake caliper and rotor and reuse the brake pad ( it only 4 month, 1000 miles ), and just replace the seize up one.
 
I think you definitely want the same brand (make & style)of caliper, rotor and pad on the vehicle. I say this because of the frictional characteristic differences between different rotors and pads. Calipers my have different size pistons or number of pistons which if not matched will cause uneven braking. I personally would just go to a good AP place and see what is offered. $500 is a bit high for me to my thinking. Teves are not junk but, there are better alternatives. Ed
 
Go to a Mopar dealership and ask for the caliper kit 05093174AC. That should contain everything you need for both sides (yes, absolutely do both sides), and I think MSRP is $250.

The rotors appear to be the same, so you can do whatever you want for those.
 
Originally Posted By: Stu_Rock
Go to a Mopar dealership and ask for the caliper kit 05093174AC. That should contain everything you need for both sides (yes, absolutely do both sides), and I think MSRP is $250.

The rotors appear to be the same, so you can do whatever you want for those.


does that kit came with brake pad ?
 
If you overheated the pad you burned it and it's done.

Depending on your morals, you could try getting them warrantied. Say they can't handle your driving style or whatever.
 
Reusing the brake pads after overheating them that badly is dangerous. There is a significant risk they'll crumble or the lining will separate from they backing. They may or may not give some sort of warning by making more squeal noise than normal. Either way, to suddenly find you can push the brake pedal to the floor and no braking happens can be problematic when you need to stop.
 
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
Originally Posted By: Stu_Rock
Go to a Mopar dealership and ask for the caliper kit 05093174AC.
does that kit came with brake pad ?
Looks like it. Mopar's description is:

"Caliper kit (Left & Right calipers, brake pads, attachment bolts, banjo sealing washers)"
 
Why not get calipers and pads from RockAuto? Or caliper rebuild kit.

Who did the current brake job? Were the caliper pins lubricated. Did the caliper "float" properly? The caliper pins are best replaced when rusted rather than trying to clean them.

Jeep used Akebono calipers and Teves calipers. I am not sure there was a problem, just switched suppliers. But I am not in the know of the exact reason.

You should be able to buy new calipers if the old ones cannot be fixed up (and they should be able to). Either Akebono or Teves calipers should fit. You need the pad for whichever caliper you have as the pads are different.

Turning rotors if marginal at best and they often then warp as there is less metal.

I have Jeep GC with Teves calipers and they have never seized with 118K miles, but even with new quality pads and rotors the rotors seem to cause the wheel to shake under heavy braking after awhile.
 
There's a TSB (05-003-02B) that advises replacing the Teves calipers with Akebono calipers to correct recurring brake pulsation. Sounds like you need them too, Donald.

I checked prices at RockAuto, and it's more expensive than the dealer, if the dealer is $250. And then, you need to make sure that you get calipers with brackets, as well as purchasing the mounting bolts separately.
 
So what is included in 05093174AC? Can I just get Akebono calipers with mounting brackets? (New pads of course). Reuse the mounting bolts? Or is the wheel hub different and I need something in the kit to make a Akebono caliper fit on a Jeep that came with a Teves?
 
I don't know firsthand--I only have the TSB and parts catalogs. It looks like the kit is just calipers, pads, brackets, and bolts. The listing indicates that the hub/rotor are unchanged. I don't know if the mounting bolts can be reused. They might be different.

The TSB says that a new pair rotors should be used with the kit. I presume they just want to discard rotors that have any chance of being warped by use with the Teves calipers. If I had relatively new, unwarped, rotors, I would probably reuse them.
 
It looks like what you said. I do not think the bolts can be reused. Different ones. The kit is cheaper than it should be as I assume Jeep is trying to give people a break for their mistake using the Teves caliper. Should have been a recall.
 
I got the kit for $187 at a Dodge dealer who sells online. I think there is even a new part number for the kit. And then $30-$40 for each rotor. Again, there should have been a recall.
 
I really want to know is, any body use any other brand other then Akebono and have no same problem.

and I think their are thousand of peoples having same problem, and they just take to the shop, and I think the shop just buy another brand ( beside Akebono ), or rebuild the old one.
 
I think most of the brands available are remans of Teves or Akebono.

Others like myself just get new pads (and rotors) for the Teves and the brakes start out OK. They fail early and you try again.

Most indy shops don't know about the TSB.

Is there a TSB out on how the piston skirts fail on the 4.0 engine trashing the engine?
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
I think most of the brands available are remans of Teves or Akebono.

Others like myself just get new pads (and rotors) for the Teves and the brakes start out OK. They fail early and you try again.

Most indy shops don't know about the TSB.

Is there a TSB out on how the piston skirts fail on the 4.0 engine trashing the engine?


ah i see, because I look at AAP and the brake caliper look exactly like the Akebono for 50 something dollar each.

and about the piston skirt fail, those are common happen to those that are OVER REV their engine ( off road ), these 4.0L do not like high rev.
 
4.0s don't hate revving as much as you think. However, don't EVER think about taking one past the 5300 rpm redline without a completely redone rotating assembly. At 5500 - 5600, you can get a harmonic vibration bad enough to shatter the main bearing caps.

The piston skirt failures are mostly on the later (99+) 4.0s. I've never heard of someone finding out what changed and caused it. It's not a terribly common issue though, so I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: rslifkin
4.0s don't hate revving as much as you think. However, don't EVER think about taking one past the 5300 rpm redline without a completely redone rotating assembly. At 5500 - 5600, you can get a harmonic vibration bad enough to shatter the main bearing caps.

The piston skirt failures are mostly on the later (99+) 4.0s. I've never heard of someone finding out what changed and caused it. It's not a terribly common issue though, so I wouldn't worry about it.


I dont think it let you pass over 5300 rmp, I try it one mabe 2 time haha.
 
Originally Posted By: rslifkin
4.0s don't hate revving as much as you think. However, don't EVER think about taking one past the 5300 rpm redline without a completely redone rotating assembly. At 5500 - 5600, you can get a harmonic vibration bad enough to shatter the main bearing caps.

The piston skirt failures are mostly on the later (99+) 4.0s. I've never heard of someone finding out what changed and caused it. It's not a terribly common issue though, so I wouldn't worry about it.


I never ever rev'ed mine that high and I had the problem. A 2001 4.0. The piston skirt cracks but is still attached and you get a ticking or tapping sound. At that point the cylinder wall is probably scored. At some point the cracked piece of skirt falls off and depending upon how and what size, it may fall into the oil pan or grenade your engine. In my case it took out the engine. The connecting rod was no longer attached to the piston. I suppose I could have fixed it when it first happened. But who is to say it would not happened to a second piston in another 5000 miles. I got a Marshall reman engine and it runs like a top.
 
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