Jacked up car by unibody frame rail

Totally agree with sliding the wheel I've removed under the vehicle I'm working on, it also keeps it from being a tripping hazard.
I also make sure to lower the car onto the jack stand while keeping some contact pressure on the jack. Belts and braces!
These days I'm round than the wheel--so that's not doing much for me! But otherwise, yes, I leave the jack und the car, with the jackstand, can't hurt to have two. However I often use wood cribbing, if it's good enough for ships, it's good enough for me.

And as mentioned earlier, they might not be frame rails, but whatever those are, that is my jack and jackstand point(s). Using cribbing at least spreads out the weight.
 
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I install the jacks in front of the engine/transmission cradle bolts, right between the lower control arm , on the cradle. Put the jack stands on the body pinch points under the front doors. Put the jacks there to take the weight off the unibody bolts. Jack stands are a redundancy just in case of jack failure
 
I needed to find one that had a specific width slot. So many of them on the market have too wide of a slot to fit in the pinch weld section.
For a Subaru it needs to have a deep enough slot so all the lifting force is on either side on the pinch weld but not on the pinch weld itself.

What about the lifting points other than where the factory jack goes?
 
And I have not had a hydraulic jack fail either, but I use jack stands whenever I crawl under a vehicle.

So according to our anecdotes, can we conclude both methods never fail?
Of course not, that would be ignorant to think that, all the methods use to hold a vehicle can fail at some point.

I am actually surprised my plastic ramps have held up for as long as they have in the high temps they are subjected too.
 
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