IIRC, I think my dad's 98 Buick LeSabre specs 4.5 quarts of oil. I just pour in the full 5 qt jug. I mean, half a quart over on a high mileage car isn't going to hurt it.
~ Triton
~ Triton
It sucks needing 5.5 quarts...
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Originally Posted By: Triton_330
IIRC, I think my dad's 98 Buick LeSabre specs 4.5 quarts of oil. I just pour in the full 5 qt jug. I mean, half a quart over on a high mileage car isn't going to hurt it.
~ Triton
My sons 96 Corolla with the 1.8 engine holds 3.7 qts. of oil. He uses the Tearolator filter #14477 instead of the #14476 and adds 4 qts of oil. Hits the full mark every time.
IIRC, I think my dad's 98 Buick LeSabre specs 4.5 quarts of oil. I just pour in the full 5 qt jug. I mean, half a quart over on a high mileage car isn't going to hurt it.
~ Triton
My sons 96 Corolla with the 1.8 engine holds 3.7 qts. of oil. He uses the Tearolator filter #14477 instead of the #14476 and adds 4 qts of oil. Hits the full mark every time.
Needing 4.5 quarts of oil sucks too. I just used 5 quarts in my Aerostar, unless I had an open bottle with half a quart in it when it was time for an oil change.
Originally Posted By: hatt
You could always take a hammer to the oil pan to reduce capacity a bit.
I like it!
You could always take a hammer to the oil pan to reduce capacity a bit.
I like it!
my prev DD (see sig) took 4.4. Imagine my fragile psyche flying off the handle!
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Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: hatt
You could always take a hammer to the oil pan to reduce capacity a bit.
I like it!
LOL
Most of us older population have seen/owned a vehicle or two that capacity was reduced after running over something(cinder block comes to mind)...
Unfortunately today's aluminum pans aren't nearly as forgiving as the stamped steel versions of the past...
In spite of the OCD types thinking oil should always full, few engines with a five quart system will be harmed at even two quarts low... Exception would possibly if vehicle was constantly being driven hard, auto crossed, etc...
Originally Posted By: hatt
You could always take a hammer to the oil pan to reduce capacity a bit.
I like it!
LOL
Most of us older population have seen/owned a vehicle or two that capacity was reduced after running over something(cinder block comes to mind)...
Unfortunately today's aluminum pans aren't nearly as forgiving as the stamped steel versions of the past...
In spite of the OCD types thinking oil should always full, few engines with a five quart system will be harmed at even two quarts low... Exception would possibly if vehicle was constantly being driven hard, auto crossed, etc...
Don't sweat the small stuff.
Pony up for another jug of oil.
Alternately, by an oil change deal that allows you to select 5 individual quarts and use them in combination with your big jug of oil.
Otherwise, if your OCD still won't let you sleep, trade cars for one that holds just 5 quarts.
Pony up for another jug of oil.
Alternately, by an oil change deal that allows you to select 5 individual quarts and use them in combination with your big jug of oil.
Otherwise, if your OCD still won't let you sleep, trade cars for one that holds just 5 quarts.
Try 7.5
I am a member of quite a few Ford websites. The thing that makes me literally LOL is when a member claims he has to add 6.5-7 qts. of oil to his 4.2 V6, which holds 6 qts. Said member states,"I did an oil change and added the required 6qts. of oil. After running the engine and letting it sit for a bit, I checked the oil and it was only in the half way area of the cross hatched area. I added an additional 1/2 qt. of oil to bring it to the full mark."
I then come back with this response;"Your 4.2 V6 must be one of those special engines that Ford made the oil pans to hold extra oil. They broke the mold so made a new 6qt. pan."
I then come back with this response;"Your 4.2 V6 must be one of those special engines that Ford made the oil pans to hold extra oil. They broke the mold so made a new 6qt. pan."
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: Triton_330
IIRC, I think my dad's 98 Buick LeSabre specs 4.5 quarts of oil. I just pour in the full 5 qt jug. I mean, half a quart over on a high mileage car isn't going to hurt it.
~ Triton
My sons 96 Corolla with the 1.8 engine holds 3.7 qts. of oil. He uses the Tearolator filter #14477 instead of the #14476 and adds 4 qts of oil. Hits the full mark every time.
Yeah - dad's Buick's 3800 series II specs the PF47 but the PF52 does still fit (slightly longer version). But no matter which size of filter I use on the car, he still just has me pour the full 5 qt jug.
Originally Posted By: Farmer
It sucks needing 6 gallons of oil on a tractor...
Actually I would think that to be a good thing on a tractor. We have a cruddy old Cub Cadet ummm... 7205 I think it is[?], and boy that thing soots up the oil real quick. It has a smaller sump (possibly 4.5 but idr for sure).
~ Triton
Originally Posted By: Triton_330
IIRC, I think my dad's 98 Buick LeSabre specs 4.5 quarts of oil. I just pour in the full 5 qt jug. I mean, half a quart over on a high mileage car isn't going to hurt it.
~ Triton
My sons 96 Corolla with the 1.8 engine holds 3.7 qts. of oil. He uses the Tearolator filter #14477 instead of the #14476 and adds 4 qts of oil. Hits the full mark every time.
Yeah - dad's Buick's 3800 series II specs the PF47 but the PF52 does still fit (slightly longer version). But no matter which size of filter I use on the car, he still just has me pour the full 5 qt jug.
Originally Posted By: Farmer
It sucks needing 6 gallons of oil on a tractor...
Actually I would think that to be a good thing on a tractor. We have a cruddy old Cub Cadet ummm... 7205 I think it is[?], and boy that thing soots up the oil real quick. It has a smaller sump (possibly 4.5 but idr for sure).
~ Triton
Originally Posted By: Nyogtha
Originally Posted By: KennyJB
I think I've just been overthinking it then, thinking I need exactly the 5.5 qts and of the same brand and blend.
I have a 04 H6 Outback. It has 130k miles on it but doesn't consume any. I run 10w30 in it during the summer and 5w30 in the winter.
Unless you're getting some big discount on 10w30 relative to 5w30, why not run 5w30 (or even 0W-30) year round? That would eliminate half the issue.
There should be some individual quarts of 5w30 and 0w30 left at the AZ clearance sales as others have mentioned. I haven't seen any 10w30 on clearance at the AZ's I've visited the past few weeks.
There is always more 10w30 to choose from and my manual recommends it for the warmer temps, and yeah is usually cheaper. I just switch to 5 in winter because it can get below 0
I don't try to squeeze out huge OCIs though, 4k is about it. I do too much stop and go trips where the car never warms up. Plus with the weather extremes (gets above 100 in summer and super dusty). I know it's probably a waste of oil but that's why I get the cheap stuff, and because I don't drive a lot, I probably do two changes a year even at that interval.
I was also trying to keep Qs Defy going for three OCs so I could do a UOA and then maybe I'll stretch the OCI if things look good.
Originally Posted By: KennyJB
I think I've just been overthinking it then, thinking I need exactly the 5.5 qts and of the same brand and blend.
I have a 04 H6 Outback. It has 130k miles on it but doesn't consume any. I run 10w30 in it during the summer and 5w30 in the winter.
Unless you're getting some big discount on 10w30 relative to 5w30, why not run 5w30 (or even 0W-30) year round? That would eliminate half the issue.
There should be some individual quarts of 5w30 and 0w30 left at the AZ clearance sales as others have mentioned. I haven't seen any 10w30 on clearance at the AZ's I've visited the past few weeks.
There is always more 10w30 to choose from and my manual recommends it for the warmer temps, and yeah is usually cheaper. I just switch to 5 in winter because it can get below 0
I don't try to squeeze out huge OCIs though, 4k is about it. I do too much stop and go trips where the car never warms up. Plus with the weather extremes (gets above 100 in summer and super dusty). I know it's probably a waste of oil but that's why I get the cheap stuff, and because I don't drive a lot, I probably do two changes a year even at that interval.
I was also trying to keep Qs Defy going for three OCs so I could do a UOA and then maybe I'll stretch the OCI if things look good.
A 10w30, 5w30, and 0w30 are all a 30 wt. at operating temperature. However a 5W will have better low temperature flow performance than 10W, and 0W will have better low temperature performance than 5W or 10W. Amount of dust shouldn't affect choosing between 10W, 5W, or 0W.
Autozone has had a bunch of Mobil 1 0w30 on clearance for $2 / qt.
However if you have a significant cost advantage for 10w30 then your "complication" of using 2 different multigrade 30 wt. oils seasonally shouldn't be a big deal vs. the logistics simplification of using a 5w30 or 0w30 year round.
Autozone has had a bunch of Mobil 1 0w30 on clearance for $2 / qt.
However if you have a significant cost advantage for 10w30 then your "complication" of using 2 different multigrade 30 wt. oils seasonally shouldn't be a big deal vs. the logistics simplification of using a 5w30 or 0w30 year round.
Originally Posted By: Triton_330
Originally Posted By: Farmer
It sucks needing 6 gallons of oil on a tractor...
Actually I would think that to be a good thing on a tractor. We have a cruddy old Cub Cadet ummm... 7205 I think it is[?], and boy that thing soots up the oil real quick. It has a smaller sump (possibly 4.5 but idr for sure).
~ Triton
6 Gallons on a Deere 7810 8.1L beast, at least its easy to get to...
Originally Posted By: Farmer
It sucks needing 6 gallons of oil on a tractor...
Actually I would think that to be a good thing on a tractor. We have a cruddy old Cub Cadet ummm... 7205 I think it is[?], and boy that thing soots up the oil real quick. It has a smaller sump (possibly 4.5 but idr for sure).
~ Triton
6 Gallons on a Deere 7810 8.1L beast, at least its easy to get to...
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