Is this the proper way to waterproof a shower?

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I just threw this together at work. I'm replacing a shower, and since the old one had plastic walls, I need some advice on how to build the new "tile" walls and keep it water proof.

Here's a picture of what I'm planning.

SHOWER.png


Will it work?
 
I'm not an expert but it looks good to me....I would use the waterproof type sheetrock or rockboard...
 
What you've got drawn is better than what you'd find in lots of today's new-builds, but like said above, visit the JohnBridge site. They are the Mike Holmes of tile.

Joel
 
Don't run the wall all the way to the tub. Leave a half inch/ inch.
This is standard so any possible water can not migrate.

Vapor barrier? Can't see why. Coated screws? They'd better not every be needed.
 
Id forego the tile for some kind of stone, cut real thin, less than 1/4" put on in larger sections. The fewer seams, the less grouting, less ingress locations, less chance for water, etc.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2

Vapor barrier? Can't see why. Coated screws? They'd better not every be needed.


If tile is used, moisture is going to get behind the tiles and into your board of choice unless you treat the surface of your wall board.

Joel
 
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At least you didn't expect it to be all grout -- a beginner's mistake.

You need a gap between the wall and tub/pan. The wall will be moved by the studs expanding with temperature and humidity. With no clearance, the bottom gap will change from 0 (or even lifting the wall) to 1/8" or 1/4". 0" of silicone isn't going to expand to fill a 1/8" gap. With a bigger initial gap the caulk won't have to stretch or squeeze as much, especially when supported by foam backer bead.

Buy the very best caulk for the initial application. You want bathroom only caulk -- mildew resistant stuff that so deadly it's not approved for kitchen (food contact) use. If you use silicone, the first application is the only time the caulk will stick. Do it all in one session since it won't bond to itself once it starts to cure.
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: mechtech2

Vapor barrier? Can't see why. Coated screws? They'd better not every be needed.


If tile is used, moisture is going to get behind the tiles and into your board of choice unless you treat the surface of your wall board.

Joel

The cement board can get wet. A vapor barrier is used so moisture doesn't warp the wooden studs which in turn wrecks your tile job.
 
Originally Posted By: djb


You need a gap between the wall and tub/pan. The wall will be moved by the studs expanding with temperature and humidity. With no clearance, the bottom gap will change from 0 (or even lifting the wall) to 1/8" or 1/4". 0" of silicone isn't going to expand to fill a 1/8" gap. With a bigger initial gap the caulk won't have to stretch or squeeze as much, especially when supported by foam backer bead.



Do you mean the shower base should not be tight to the studs, or the cement backer should stop above the shower base?
 
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