But it takes three thousand miles for this effect to occur? That doesn't make sense.Because fuel is eliminated to some extent during driving. It completely depends on the amount and the cause.
Why would fuel dilution ever stabilize. That does not make sense to me... but if it is the case, you would be advised to choose between 3k oil changes or 7.5k oil changes, since there is no middle ground.
Not necessarily, I would have to test oil sooner like after 1k miles to know how quickly it gets to 4-5%. But I dont want to do that, I have no plans to change oil sooner than 3-4k miles.But it takes three thousand miles for this effect to occur? That doesn't make sense.
Just google HTHS wear graph.0w20 uoa came back good for my vehicle, so it had me thinking that i could bump up to a 0w30 to definetly be protected and have no worries incase of any fuel dilution or shear. however is there a benefit to bump up to a w40 weight? or would it be redundant since i am already protected at the w20 and going up to the w30 gives me some leeway?
curious to hear thoughts!
Exactly. I made the permanent migration from 5W-20 to 5W-30 for the higher HTHS and MOFT protection. I saw no change whatsoever in fuel economy. Also 30 weight oil is more resistant to forming sludge/varnish in extreme heat applications.Not really as it’s exactly the reason for lower viscosity oils. There is no technical or mechanical benefit besides fuel economy, lower HT/HS isn’t better in any way other than that. Manufacturers don’t “require” a grade they recommend them, and the recommendations are not always being made for technical reasons. Just read one of the several CAFE award letters posted here and you’ll see exactly why the owner’s manuals are written the way they are.
People keep trying to ascribe it to some technical requirement (including calling any other comments as “asinine”) but that doesn’t make it any more true. The one and only benefit to a thinner oil is fuel economy and that’s it.
Actual common sense is often missing from this discussion and when it comes down to it, that’s exactly the intent of CAFE wording.
It's been a while since thinking about that car. Mine was a 325. A rare two door automatic.That's not entirely true.
There is no evidence that I could find that a 528e used low tension rings. The engine was tuned for low rpm tq at the sacrifice of high rpm hp much like some cars today. I researched these cars heavily when I was looking for one in my younger years.
Also the oil chart in the manual is all over the map with maybe 15w40 being a good universal choice but you would easily be fine running a 10w30, heck depending on the outside temp even a straight SAE20 is acceptable. Honestly with today's oils running 5w30 wouldn't be a second thought. It's not a high strung motor that needs to rev.
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They probably started using them in the later years but I figured you were referring to the 528e. It was the fuel economy 2.7l I6 which only made 130HP vs it's non economy minded brothers. I funny thing with those oil charts is they are as precise as they are obtuse in nature. I only posted it as a reference not to infer anything.It's been a while since thinking about that car. Mine was a 325. A rare two door automatic.
I was probably wrong about the 5w-40. I think it was 15w-40. But, I don't recall the ambient temp/oil chart in my manual nor do I recall any API approvals. They recommended their preferred grade and one for cold temps. I, also, researched the engine (don't remember which one it had) and that is where I found out about the low tension piston rings.
Based on what? Mobil 1 5w20 vs. 5w30 is the same oil at it's core.Also 30 weight oil is more resistant to forming sludge/varnish in extreme heat applications.
For my Honda J35A7 engines, which get extreme heat on front cylinder heads due to VCM + poorly designed overly small PCV value, the mechanics I've spoken to say that the 5W-20 oil the engine was speced for was part of the reason for the heavy varnish. It got overwhelmed by the extreme high temps. These mechanics recommended 5W-30 and even 5W-40 for this application.Based on what? Mobil 1 5w20 vs. 5w30 is the same oil at it's core.
You should add to the grid: "Extended oil change intervals".
Each BITOG Bingo card is custom made to order for the given post.You should add to the grid: "Extended oil change intervals".
I think it has taken 1st place (even over thick versus thin) for debates here on BITOG. LOL
Ya but that is not what I quoted. M1 5w30 is no more resistant to heat and sludge formation than it's 5w20 brother. At its core they are the same oil.For my Honda J35A7 engines, which get extreme heat on front cylinder heads due to VCM + poorly designed overly small PCV value, the mechanics I've spoken to say that the 5W-20 oil the engine was speced for was part of the reason for the heavy varnish. It got overwhelmed by the extreme high temps. These mechanics recommended 5W-30 and even 5W-40 for this application.
Also Ford returned to 5W-30 as they felt the 5W-20 wasn't protecting their timing chains well enough.
After doing my own research, I've made the permanent move to 5W-30. It's higher HTHS and MOFT is something I consider important.
You may wish to google: HTHS wear graph.
True. I actually don't think of 5W-30 as a thick oil. I just see it as the optimal oil viscosity all cars would be using if CAFE didn't exist.Ya but that is not what I quoted. M1 5w30 is no more resistant to heat and sludge formation than it's 5w20 brother. At its core they are the same oil.
The mechanics know as much about oil formulation as my irish setter. Going up in grade is not a solution for high oil temps unless you are at risk to lose MOFT, using a better oil with better base stocks is the solution.
What they should have said was don't use a cheap oil or change it more frequently if that is the case.
Seems midway of the three most common seen here …True. I actually don't think of 5W-30 as a thick oil. I just see it as the optimal oil viscosity all cars would be using if CAFE didn't exist.
Be weary of listening to technicians....they often have v. limited info on oils (or the history/use of the vehicle and what oils were used etc.) and make inferences (i.e. "they use a 5W20 and I see some varnish so that's the cause").For my Honda J35A7 engines, which get extreme heat on front cylinder heads due to VCM + poorly designed overly small PCV value, the mechanics I've spoken to say that the 5W-20 oil the engine was speced for was part of the reason for the heavy varnish. It got overwhelmed by the extreme high temps. These mechanics recommended 5W-30 and even 5W-40 for this application.
Also Ford returned to 5W-30 as they felt the 5W-20 wasn't protecting their timing chains well enough.
After doing my own research, I've made the permanent move to 5W-30. It's higher HTHS and MOFT is something I consider important.
You may wish to google: HTHS wear graph.
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