Is my GM diff lube good enough?

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Clarksville,TN
I've been debating switching my factory diff lube to something like Mobil 1 or Redline. I figured since I'm now at 6k miles if there's any metal in the lube from break in I should change it.
The thing is my owners manual just says to use GM 75w-90 synthetic and to check and refill if needed. Does anyone know how this lube stacks up to the other brands. Or should I just leave it alone?
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Do you have any special operating conditions? Ski in Alberta all winter? Tow a heavy trailer all summer in 100°+ temperatures?

Ken
 
JWRENCH, if you are here, you're probably into taking really good car of your transportation. REALLY good!
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What your manual calls for is "good enough" ... but that's not what most of us are looking for. If you're gonna keep this thing a while, I think what you're contemplating is a good idea. Just be sure to have a spare rear-end cover gasket handy.

As for selection of gear oils, I don't let price become a factor. Unless the stuff is $20 per quart, it's NOT a significant factor over the life of the vehicle. How many quarts are you going to use? A dozen total? Even at $10 per quart, that only adds up to $120. In that time you'll spend many tens of thousands on a typical truck.

Poke around here and get an idea of what you think the BEST gear oil is and use that. You only live once.
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--- Bror Jace
 
He,he,he Now I see why they call you one quart low.
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I never tow anything, but I drive it probably harder than I should. I'm a maintenance tech so I'm use to playing in oil at work. But I've really started getting interested in getting the best lubes for my new truck since I found this site.

I just can't believe how little info the owners manual has for the rear diff. Basically just says check every 7,500 miles and keep it 5/8 to 1 5/8 below the plug hole. And just says use GM #12378261 or equivalent meeting the GM spec 9986115. No info on how much it holds like it gives for the engine,trans, radiator,etc.
 
Hey fellas I just found a little bit of info about new GM rear ends and thought I'd pass it on. Guess I better use that gasket after all.

This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers about the compatibility and usage of the new Fuel Efficient SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Axle Lubricant, GM P/N 12378261 (In Canada use P/N 10953455), with current axles, and with the non-synthetic axle lubricant, GM P/N 1052271 (In Canada use P/N 10950849), for the rear axles on the above light-duty trucks.

Testing has shown that the new synthetic lubricant will chemically attack the Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) sealant. Use only the non-synthetic lubricant, P/N 1052271, in axles using RTV sealant (See 9.5 and 10.5 information below).

American Axle and Manufacturing (A.A.M.) has approved the use of the new Fuel Efficient SAE 75W-90 synthetic axle lubricant for rear axles with the following restrictions:

All 8.6 inch axles are compatible as originally built.

9.5 inch axles on vehicles built prior to mid-February 1998 are NOT compatible because RTV sealant is used on the cover pans. On vehicles built after mid-February 1998 and equipped with 9.5 inch rear axles, synthetic lubricant, P/N 12378261, can be used because the RTV was replaced with a gasket. Other mid-February changes to the 9.5 inch rear axles include a new cover pan and cover pan fasteners common to other axles.

Important
The new cover pan is not retrofittable to the housing of 9.5 inch axles on vehicles built prior to mid-February 1998. A new retrofit kit is available that will enable the use of synthetic lubricant for vehicles built after mid-February, 1998.

All 10.5 inch axles prior to March 3, 1999 are compatible if the axle shaft hub seal (RTV) is replaced with P/N 327739 gasket when changing to synthetic lubricant.

As a product improvement, this new lubricant has been released into 1999 current production C/K vehicles built after the above VIN breakpoints (Except HD3500 models which use 75W-140 synthetic lubricant, P/N 12346140).

It is recommended that synthetic lubricant be used when changing rear axle lubricant for the following reasons:
Potential fuel economy
Lower operating temperature under severe usage conditions

Important
You do not need to wash/rinse any non-synthetic lubricant from the axle cavity when changing over to a synthetic lubricant. However, you should remove debris from the magnet and the bottom of the axle cavity whenever the axle fluid is changed.

On light-duty trucks equipped with locking differentials, do NOT use a limited-slip additive.
 
Jwrench, Good catch but I would take that with salt. It tells me their RTV has problems with their lube. On this side of the fence I've used a dozen types of RTV with many different lubes for years, including Redline and Valvoline synths. No leaks. It's possible they've introduced something new with their lube. What's that mean for axle seals? Can you get the MSDS for both products? Might be interesting.

To me it's another nail in the coffin. What are they charging for it? For comparison, Redline is ~$9/qt, Amsoil somewhere in the area. Both will work well with any hypoid gears and definitely lower temps.

David
 
Yeah Dave, I have to agree with you. I'm leaning toward the redline but I'm gonna do a little more research first. Thanks for your $.02 fellas.
 
I have also been considering changing my differential fluids. How much does GM charge for a quart of 12378261, try $28! You can buy it over the net for about $16 plus s&h. It theoretically does not have any limited slip additive in it. I need to check into Redline as an alternative for the G80 Eaton locker that GM is supplying. Do you guys recommend always removing the cover and cleaning out the cavity instead of just using the drain and fill holes? John
 
Even Dino gear lube will leak when RTV is used in place of a gasket. Intake manifolds on the motors is the same deal,,they will hold a seal for awhile but will eventually leak. I use gaskets for what it's worth,,thats what they are made for,proper sealing :)Not nagging on anyone here
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There are plenty of OTC 75/90 Synthetic gear lubes available at about 6-7 bucks per quart.I prefer to " tune " the lube with a friction modifier from Ford part # C8AZ-19B546-A in a non open differential with clutch packs to get desired results.It does not milk up like the GM additive from my experiences. No need in a open differential.

After break-in of the differential of about 10k the lube has taken it's hardest hit,,a change then will allow for a long interval before needed again if all the metal debris is removed.Sometimes this requires wiping the lower housing.
I prefer OTC gear oils in that if you need some more for top off or did not order enough it is easy to get more.
Mobil-additized
Pennzoil- I think is additized
Conoco and
Phillips are the only 75/90's PAO's available localy here but if you knew how much you needed it would be hard to go wrong with Redline -Royal Purple especially if available localy.
 
Quote:
"Do you guys recommend always removing the cover and cleaning out the cavity "

Yep,it is the only way to get all the metal out and other contaminants
 
*COUGHnoRTVCOUGHjustagasketCOUGHCOUGH*
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Seriously, I'm using a Victor Reinz (dana) steel shim core gasket for my Ford rear ends. No leaks and re-usable even after 2 years.

It takes me 1 second to clean up the pumpkin gasket surface:
remove diff cover
remove gasket
wipe down with cloth/rag/solvents

bada bing. I'm done.

If I used RTV:
remove diff cover
SCRAPE SCRAPE SCRAPE SCRAPE SCRAPE
(scratch and dent pumkin gasket surface)
SCRAPE SCRAPE
(get RTV lodged inside one of the ring gear teeth)
SCRAPE SCRAPE
(missed some RTV spots, going back to scrape again)
etc...

There's an RTV remover that's made up of acids, which is again messy.

I change my differential oil every 2-3 years just to be on the safe side even if I don't drive that much. It has no filter, it has no external oil cooler, and it gets subjected to quite a bit of abuse. I just want to make sure when I drive over a puddle that I get rid of the water within a few years.
 
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