Is M1 T&SUV actually Del Vac ?

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I have scoured the forums and several posts (and the material data sheets for both oils) lead me to believe the M1 T&SUV 5-40 is a "rebadged" Del Vac synthetic. Would M1 T&SUV and Mobil 1 filter be good for a 1 yr/10,000 mi OCI in a 6 liter gas Chevy truck ? I would like the additional protection of a 40 weight in our Texas heat. Currently 108F at the end of Sept. Thannx for your help.
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The add packs are obviously the same. The only question is whether or not the base stocks are the same. Logic would dictate that it would be more cost efficient for ExxonMobil just to stick another label on the oil.
 
Whether it is or not DELVAC 1 or "just" Mobil 1, I don't think under normal driving conditions a 10K mile drain is a problem. Let's be pragmatic Mobil 1 is set a 15K and D1 is even higher additive treated based on elementals. Dirt, Towing, Driving slow with extensive stop and go, or other factors can affect the real service interval and should always be considered when not following the recomendation of the OEM. I hope this helps. It is always a risk to do things different. My own view and only my own....I would do it and do in my E320 CDI, and Chevy Avalanche.
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quote:

I have scoured the forums and several posts (and the material data sheets for both oils) lead me to believe the M1 T&SUV 5-40 is a "rebadged" Del Vac synthetic.

That would be correct.
quote:

Would M1 T&SUV and Mobil 1 filter be good for a 1 yr/10,000 mi OCI in a 6 liter gas Chevy truck?

Yep, you'd be in tall cotton.
 
Thanks for the help guys..... I have never gone a 10K OCI in my life (53 yrs) and I am sure I will be a nervous wreck at 5K ! I grew up with the 3 mo/3K OCIs and I really want to ensure I have an ample safety factor when the "sweatin" starts. Would you suggest a filter change and 1 qt. topup halfway through the 10K OCI ? Would a UOA be in order ?
 
quote:

Originally posted by texasproud:
Thanks for the help guys..... I have never gone a 10K OCI in my life (53 yrs) and I am sure I will be a nervous wreck at 5K ! I grew up with the 3 mo/3K OCIs and I really want to ensure I have an ample safety factor when the "sweatin" starts. Would you suggest a filter change and 1 qt. topup halfway through the 10K OCI ? Would a UOA be in order ?

I would never discourage a UOA because it tells you what's going on with your engine. If cost is an issue, then a filter change and top off to introduce fresh oil would definitely be recommended after 6 months. Good luck
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quote:

Originally posted by texasproud:
Thanks for the help guys..... I have never gone a 10K OCI in my life (53 yrs) and I am sure I will be a nervous wreck at 5K ! I grew up with the 3 mo/3K OCIs and I really want to ensure I have an ample safety factor when the "sweatin" starts. Would you suggest a filter change and 1 qt. topup halfway through the 10K OCI ? Would a UOA be in order ?

My Dodge Sprinter has 10K OCI's. I've even done 16K on M1 0w-40 with the OLM. I think vehicles these days can get away with it if you use a good oil and it's specifies such an OCI.

I'm putting M1 Truck/SUV in it this weekend for the first time. We'll see how it goes.
 
quote:

Originally posted by texasproud:
Thanks for the help guys..... I have never gone a 10K OCI in my life (53 yrs) and I am sure I will be a nervous wreck at 5K ! I grew up with the 3 mo/3K OCIs and I really want to ensure I have an ample safety factor when the "sweatin" starts. Would you suggest a filter change and 1 qt. topup halfway through the 10K OCI ? Would a UOA be in order ?

Sure, do a UOA mid-term to establish your comfort level. A lot of the anti-UOA folks overlook the fact that no one says you have to do them every time your change your oil.

I recently finished a 13 month, 10,200 OCI in my wife's Sequoia. Obviously, this a different vehicle than yours, but if you look up my UOA, you'll see that it did just fine. I ran GC and did change filters half-way through, but from the ending UOA, which included optional particle counts, it's pretty clear to me that I was still well within the safe range. I had Terry Dyson interpret for me (highly recommended, very insightful) and he backed up my own conclusions. Unless your engine has issues of some sort, you'll be just fine.
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Ekpolk,

I looked up your UOA and it is a case in point of a good motor/oil filter combo is hard to beat. I wish you could get the GC locally but I have looked everywhere around here and none available and I guess the jury is still out on the made-in-the USA substitute. Thanks for your comments, I will plan on a mid OCI filter change and UOA at the end to dictate future OCIs. May be a moot point...gas at $3/gal may limit my exposure to that 6 liter Chevy truck !!
 
I spent a day with an ExxonMobil sales rep and asked him that question. He said they're the same oil just packaged differently. ExxonMobil figured images of trucks and SUVs on the bottle would dissuade purchase by the average car owner, so they came out with another package for the product.
 
quote:

Originally posted by texasproud:
Ekpolk,

I looked up your UOA and it is a case in point of a good motor/oil filter combo is hard to beat. I wish you could get the GC locally but I have looked everywhere around here and none available and I guess the jury is still out on the made-in-the USA substitute. Thanks for your comments, I will plan on a mid OCI filter change and UOA at the end to dictate future OCIs. May be a moot point...gas at $3/gal may limit my exposure to that 6 liter Chevy truck !!


Tex:

I hear ya on the gas price thing. My G35 sedan is eatin' me alive at 22 mpg. I'm guessing I won't be getting much sympathy from you. Truth be told, I think you'll do fine if you experiment around within the M1 family. I used it for years before GC with great results. Not sure which one your truck would like best, have some fun experimenting using UOAs to ferret out the best choice, then stick with that for the long-term, with an occasional UOA to confirm you're on the right track. My guess for you is that the winner will be amongst 10w30, 0w-40, 5w-40, or 10w-40 (EP only, I think). But hey, only your truck and a couple UOAs will be able to tell you for sure.
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from what I have read, the Mobil 1 0w-40 has a higher shear strength than Delvac 1 and might be more desireable to use in the CDI motor than Delvac 1.
 
Woochow,
I live in a small town & our local Sprawl-Mart does not carry the M1 0-40, but always stocks T&SUV. Seems most of the truck crowd favor the Delo, Rotella as it gets more shelf space. There are a bunch of diesel pickups in "cow country". I would imagine I would get slightly better milage with the 0-40 as well as slightly higher shear strength. Auto Zone is scheduled to build here later this year and it will help with the selection of fluids and filters. Thanks
 
quote:

Originally posted by WOOCHOW:
from what I have read, the Mobil 1 0w-40 has a higher shear strength than Delvac 1 and might be more desireable to use in the CDI motor than Delvac 1.

The consensus is that Delvac 1 is more shear stable than the 0W-40. The 0W-40 has been shown to thin and then thicken back up in some applications, while the 5W-40 stays in grade over long OCIs. This doesn't mean that 0W-40 is a bad oil, but personally, I'd take Delvac 1 first.
 
I was in "Wal-Marks" today and noticed that the T&SUV in the 5 quart container was sold out. Looks like other people are finding out about the stuff.

The 5 qt. container is $20, which is a pretty salty deal
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the spec sheet on mobile truck and suv says that it is a ci 4 oil. devac 1 says ci 4 plus oil now i dont know all that much but my understating is that a ci 4 plus oil will suspend more soot.
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TDI jerry,

I believe you are correct. I read that Mobil was not going to pursue the CI4+ rating (for the T&SUV)in order to maintain a distinction between the Mobile T&SUV and the DelVac for marketing purposes. I guess I should probably go get another 5 qt jug($20.00) before they figure out what is going on ! It is interesting that the increase in crude oil prices has not affected the price of sythetics to the same degree.
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