Is it worth it to change shock and strut

[M1Accord]

I got a 92 corolla that seems to need new shocks. It drives fine on highway, even at 80+ mph. However, it would bottom out or bounce really hard when I hit pothole even at speed under 15 mph. I want to keep this car as long as possible but realize its market value is only $1300. I have been thinking about replacing the shocks when I need to replace the brake pads, which can last another year or longer since I don't use brake that much. Should I spend $600 or to get new shocks and brake pads installed and be good to go?

While the current shock is fine for normal driving, I am thinking of the hazard of having to bottom out at high speed and/or not being able to corner as well in emergency.

The car is in very good condition otherwise and I recently change brake and steering fluid even though they still look good. I figure 85 bucks after rebate is a fair price to know that the brake and steering are in tip top shape with fresh fluid. Current mpg is 32 city and up to 38 highway.

 

[Merkava_4]

Keeping your Toyota from bottoming out falls to the job of the strut springs; the struts themselves are for controlling the oscillations.

 

[GMBoy]

Living in DC and you hardly use the brakes?

Anyhow - maybe a good compromise is to replace the struts/shocks with the lowest price name brand you can. Sounds like your car may be a little unsafe in an emergency situation. I'd change them if I was keeping the car.

 

[M1Accord]

I am on the outskirt of the metropolitan area and rarely use the brake. I have it for 2 years and never need to change it. Previous owner didn't change neither and it has 90k now. I personally put 40 of those 90k miles as previous owner was an old couple in Florida rarely used their car.

This car is used for long driving mainly outside of the DC, Northern VA area. It spends most of its time the Jersey Turnpike and I95 southbound to NC, SC, and GA. The feeling of hitting the pothole doesn't sound or feel good as I feel as if my frame would get ripped apart from the axle mounts. But this car is very structurely sounds as I have it on lift twice a year to check over things. The previous owner coated the entire underbody with 3 layers of automatic under-body paint and a coat of the rubber sound dampening paint. Therefore, muffler and all under-body parts are rust-free. But the shocks/struts are worn from age.

To be honest, I don't even know what strut is as I haven't seen one. I thought old cars don't have struts.

 

[levi]

I wrestle with decisions like this all the time because I only own older, high mileage vehicles.

If you are overall satified with the vehicle (and it sounds like you are), I'd estimate the amount of time you resonably feel you have left in the vehicle.

For instance, if you think it would be reasonable for the car to last another 12 months after you spend the mentioned $600, then you'll be saying the car is worth 50 bucks a month to you for the next 12 months.

Considering what it might cost to replace it, and the fact that you might have some pretty salty repair bills on your next vehicle, 50 bucks sounds cheap to me.

Of course, there is always the possisibility of more unforeseen repairs on your present car, but that's what makes driving older vehicles interesting!

 

[Tosh]

First off, why would you replace brake pads when they're not worn out yet? Do you have other symptoms or worries? Save your money.

How do you know it's bottoming out? Perhaps it just has worn bump stops or bad strut mount bushings and is making a bottoming out grinding/crashing sound? Do the struts/shocks have big damp spots showing a lot of oil has leaked out? (I'm not saying the shocks aren't worn out, but I've replaced shocks that I assumed were bad, and it still made hardly any difference in noise or ride quality because the suspension bushings were old and dry.) You could have someone stand beside the car as you drive it over a bump to get an idea of what is happening. Are your tires properly inflated? If you take it to some random shop they'll just try to take advantage of you, so find a mechanic you trust.

 

[Bobert]

I'd say it depends how much longer you plan on keeping the car. Will you still have the car in say 3 years? If so, replace the shocks. Look around for a sale at Sears or some other place for shock installation.

 

[Donald]

I have the same problem in my 94 Camry with 184K miles. Going over a pot hole or speed bump gives kind of a banging noise on the side that is hitting the pot hole or speed bump and it sounds like both sides have a problem.

I am told it could be the strut mount or even a broken spring. I would however not think I would have a broken spring on both rear sides.

The rear strut mounts do not have a bearing like the front strut mounts, just a bushing.

I have a trusted mechanic where I can bring parts, but the problem is knowing what is worn or broken before one takes it all apart. If one is replacing the strut mount doesn't it also make sense to replace the strut. At 184K even if the strut mount is not worn out today, will it last the rest of the life of the car?

The price I can get parts online or ebay is so much cheaper than NAPA, that it really makes sense to try and figure or guess ahead of time what is needed and get them. Having the car apart on the lift and having my mechanic go to NAPA will cost a fortune.

I don't seem to see any problems with the front, just the rear. My Dad could have had the front struts changed, not sure, and can't ask him.

 

[Donald]

The Monroe fully assembled strut/spring and mount is $186 at RockAuto. I assume in my case (184K) that probably the strut and mount and maybe spring are all worn out. It would also seem that the quick mount would save me some labor time as there is no spring compression needed. The bellows and bumper are included and they are probably torn or missing.

But how good is the strut in these Monroe quick mounts? Will it be decent for the 50-60K miles I will keep the car?

 

[artificialist]

Monroe sensa-trac struts and shocks are the #1 choice of service writers that I worked for.

They couldn't have gotten to #1 without reason.

 

[alreadygone]

Donald,

The Monroe units are much better than O.E.. If you plan to keep car a few more years that would be an excellent way to go. Most of the time when changing customers struts there will be other related items needed. Job should be much quicker, maybe even DYI without the need for spring compressor.

Bob

 

[Donald]

So what is the labor (in hours) per side to pop in a Monroe pre-assembled strut/spring assembly? (rear)

 

[alanu]

Okay hear me out. So you go out and buy an online shock/strut/misc parts from ebay or other online sources. You save money right. YES and NO.

Any issues with your shocks or stuts in a year you would be fully warrantied from the "shop". BUT if you buy your parts and supply the mechanic YOU WILL NOT GET LABOUR WARRANTY. I say this to all of my customers because I see no point warranty work with parts I NEVER supplied. Thats typically any shops "policy" and if a shop does not have that policy they are extremely illogical.

Toyota's do tend to have less life in thier shocks. I have seen alot of corolla's in that vintage having dead shocks. If you buy Monroe sensitracs they are lifetime warranty (parts) excellent valving for control compared to a stock shock IMO. A cheaper decent replacemnt would be a KYB GR2 (not sure warranty on those).

Let the shop use their discretion on condition of the top hats, bumpstop/dust boot. Springs are usually NOT the problem, its the stock shock/strut.

 

[sciphi]

My Hyundai Elantra had shot rear struts and springs due to the previous owner's using the car as a tow vehicle. Anything in the rear seat would make the rear end sag down 2-3 inches, and pop the front end up sky-high. Replacing the struts and springs helped a great deal. The same load that would have made the rear sag a lot now only deflects the car about 1 inch, and the front doesn't pop up like it used to.

I have KYB GR-2 struts, and they are a decent strut. Comfortable, predictable response, and impeccable fit/finish.

New struts should run you about $200-300, and with spring compressors and an electric impact gun, the job is doable in a day by yourself. Be sure to take pictures, and use penetrating oil liberally.