Is any brake caliper pin better than Sil-Gylde needed

[Johnny248]

I see there are some silicone paste lubricants on Amazon that are good for many things including brake caliper pins.

But does Sil-Gylde provide the proper lubrication and will not cause damage to:rubber pin boot or the rubber section that is part of some caliper pins?

So any need for the silicone paste? Sil-Glyde does the truck?

We slowly changed over to CRC Silaramic. Seems to be very good stuff. Sil-Glyde can react with some rubbers I believe.

 

[Hall]

A bunch of experts on this forum

Now this thread is telling me we're all going to die in a fiery crash down a mountain. I can't win with you guys.

Use what you want to use and don't tell others here

 

[Hall]

Apparently my tube is OLD. Just looked at it. Says "silicone" right on the front. It's clear, or yellowish at this age. Again, for lubing rubber, says so right on the tube.

Your tube (and modern tubes ?) says it includes silicone, so I'd say with 99% certainty it includes silicone. An SDS is not an ingredient list and just looking at the one above, worst case, 69.9% of the ingredients in Sil-Glyde are not listed. SDS only have to list hazardous components. Silicone isn't hazardous.

 

[Donald]

True. I don’t touch them until the wear indicators start making noise. When I swap pads, I clean and grease the pins and all contact points on the brakes. I also do a run-out of the rotors (even new ones.). Still plenty of grease on pins, so the SIL-Glyde seems to work okay in my application. I certainly haven’t experienced any hardening.

Well I would get the pad thickness measured with each tire rotation.

Don't count on the wear indicator. It's only on one pad per side.

On my F250 the first noise I heard was the pistons grinding against the rotor. Inner pad was probably gone and pad backing plate fell off. Outer pad had plenty of pad left.

 

[doitmyself]

Your tube (and modern tubes ?) says it includes silicone, so I'd say with 99% certainty it includes silicone. An SDS is not an ingredient list and just looking at the one above, worst case, 69.9% of the ingredients in Sil-Glyde are not listed. SDS only have to list hazardous components. Silicone isn't hazardous.

Hall,

If you call AGS in Muskegon, MI they will tell you the formulation has changed little, if any at all. You need to dig deeper and look at very old MSDS's to discover the truth. The old MSDS linked below does not show silicone in the first ingredient list. The methylated silica is not silicone. On page 3 and 4 they list diemethylpolysiloxane as a component and on page 4 it implies a concentration of less than 3%. You ARE correct that it contains silicone, but barely a trace.

https://servco.safepersonnelsds.com/document/repo/98d68e46-65b7-11de-ab9b-bda81386d42a Call AGS - I did many years ago.

 

[Hall]

The old MSDS linked below does not show silicone in the first ingredient list.

1) SDS are not ingredient lists
2) Only hazardous components are required to be listed on SDS

 

[doitmyself]

1) SDS are not ingredient lists
2) Only hazardous components are required to be listed on SDS

You are correct. Old MSDS's were not standardized format and some revealed more chemical components before they revised them to the current SDS format. The old format revealed a silicone component less than 3%.

 

[Donald]

That’s like asking which shampoo is better. Everyone will have different opinion and many will not share the same experience.

I personally never used sil-glyde because I could not source it, so I got silicone paste and that has never failed me. I never saw it gum up or swell/dry up the rubber parts.

What shampoo do you use?

Brake cleaner is the best shampoo available, but it's a little drying on the skin. Definitely don't get it in your eyes.

I use only the best shampoo? Actually some reddish shampoo Rx my dermatologist prescribed.

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

@Donald you have posts in other threads where @Trav also posts and has links.

Recent one on odyssey I posted also.

The Sil-Glyde never really worked well for me. Always thinned out to much. The other slide pin greases definitely swelled the rubber on my Toyota so haven't used it since.

This Silicone Paste was linked from @Trav on other discussions. Mission Automotive was always recommended but not available. That and 3M or AC Delco.

Get new boots, clean it out well again, do the silicone and insert/spin/remove a couple times then do the boots. Any other rubber parts there like the pin sleeve thing should be changed also. I don't know on Odyssey but the Toyota's had a small plug on outside that often disappeared from too much grease etc. That then let water right in on the one pin.

Like many things from different areas in all BITOG discussion, @Urshurak776 and @2strokeNorthstar are in places that don't have to much rust belt salt issues.

Ive never even driven in salt so I guess my opinion is irrelevant

 

[barkingspider]

No problems using Syl Glyde. Purchased this over 8 years ago and still have some.

I have used this in the past but the packet is not enough for slide pins.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

I use the CRC lube also. No problems. I've even wired wheeled rusty pins clean, and had no seizing issues. You need to have good rubber boots to keep out the salt and water. Even a pinhole in a boot will allow water in. I live in the Salt Belt. Unfortunately, every spring, I have to inspect my rustproofing and check the pins on the calipers. If it wasn't for horrible braking, I'd take 4 wheel drum brakes on every car. At least everything is enclosed, and the salt/water can't get at it. I have one car with rear drums. Pull the drum, some brake cleaner, adjust, replace drum and wheel. Everything inside that drum is like new. ( except the wear on the shoes )

 

[Urshurak776]

Well I would get the pad thickness measured with each tire rotation.

Don't count on the wear indicator. It's only on one pad per side.

On my F250 the first noise I heard was the pistons grinding against the rotor. Inner pad was probably gone and pad backing plate fell off. Outer pad had plenty of pad left.

Yes, I check the pad thickness when I rotate the tires.

 

[wlk]

I had Sil-Glyde seize in my Impala's rear caliper this year for the first time in using it for years. I did the front brakes this Spring, as the car was new to me and had warped front rotors. In doing so, the slide pins boots were torn, so I ordered a new set and just did the boots in the rear; the pads were good. Went to undercoat it last month and found the passenger rear was dragging. Went to pull the pins and one of the pins was rusted fast, never been in snow or rust with it this spring just rain. Actually broke off in the bracket, so I got a new bracket and pins, and Sil-Glyde is all I had, so back it went, but just added a bit extra in hopes it may have been a fluke.

 

[Donald]

I had Sil-Glyde seize in my Impala's rear caliper this year for the first time in using it for years. I did the front brakes this Spring, as the car was new to me and had warped front rotors. In doing so, the slide pins boots were torn, so I ordered a new set and just did the boots in the rear; the pads were good. Went to undercoat it last month and found the passenger rear was dragging. Went to pull the pins and one of the pins was rusted fast, never been in snow or rust with it this spring just rain. Actually broke off in the bracket, so I got a new bracket and pins, and Sil-Glyde is all I had, so back it went, but just added a bit extra in hopes it may have been a fluke. View attachment 301429

If the boot is tight and not damaged then I am guessing heat has caused Sil-Glyde to harden or dry out.

 

[wlk]

If the boot is tight and not damaged then I am guessing heat has caused Sil-Glyde to harden or dry out.

Boot was clean and tight but she was rusted fast, water got in there somehow, idk, sucked but glad i found it sooner than later. Bracket and slide pins were about $30ish, so not a great loss .

 

[MParr]

This is what I use.
https://www.crcindustries.com/silaramic-brake-system-grease/