is 50:1 enough oil?

[Chris142]

Originally Posted by FowVay
Originally Posted by Chris142
Originally Posted by FowVay
I am also a 40:1 proponent. I like to see some residual oil in the crankcase when I take the crankshaft out. I have one piece of equipment that I run Blendzall Racing Castor exclusively in (a blower) and the rest of my equipment gets a diet of whatever I grab from my excessive stock of oils. I have Torco GP-7, Yamalube 2S, Opti-2, Amsoil Saber, Redline no-smoke, Husqvarna XP, Quaker State multi-purpose, and I think a couple of others.

I have had my eye on a bottle of Klotz R-50 over at Summit Racing so it'll be tried this summer at some point. I just love the sound of a sweet little 2-stroke humming along at 8,000 RPM.

How do you like the Torco oil? It is the only oil I run in my stuff.


Torco GP7 is incredible and I love it. It mixes well, wets the bottom end as well as anything I've seen, burns clean as can be and is quite possibly the best I've ever used. I started using the GP7 when I was doing a comparison between it and Mobil MX2T. It is gold plated with regard to price but if you want the best you're going to pay.

I agree 100%. Back in the early 90's I bought a 1982 Honda ATC 250R. I rebuilt the engine and I only ran Torco in it. I rode it nearly every weekend for 12 or so years. Never had to pull the jug. It still had great compression.

 

[92saturnsl2]

I always mix at 40:1 for all my 2-stroke OPE. My 10 year old Tanaka leaf blower recommends anything from 32:1 to 50:1. So I imagine anything in that range would be appropriate for most modern OPE.

 

[Kamele0N]

Originally Posted by Fordiesel69


There are some vertical scratches in the cylinder and piston skirt. I wonder why? I am noticing on all used two stroke engines the cylinders have high wear. Do we need to go back to 32:1 or 40:1?


You have set your carburetor too lean in the past...that way your trimmer got more explosive mix...was revving like a mad (that sound of a electric coffe grinder @wot)...but at the same time there was not sufficient amount of unburnt fuel to expand into exaust/muffler and to cool down your piston with that (the same thing as in your A/C....when compressed air expands...it cools down its sourandings...)

I bet that those scratches are just on the exhaust side

YT...how to set 2stroke engine (H screw on your carburetor).....or YT.... 4stroking of 2stroke engine!

DONT GO TOO LEAN NEXT TIME!!!

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted by Dave9

That's very strange because they all wear out eventually, wear caused by lubrication issues. The bearings wear out, introduce wobble, and the flywheel starts rubbing the ignition coil. If you catch it early, coil just fails from overheating. Put new coil on, can't get gap right because of the wobble either making contact one half of a revolution and/or gap too large on the other side, then you notice the wobble.


?????


Are we talking Old LawnBoy mowers with bushing on the crank???

All modern 2-strokes have very good ball (usually, a few use needle) bearings on the crank.

The piston will seize before these bearings die.

 

[Kamele0N]

Its for a chainsaw (it has L&H screws on a carb)....pay attention how it shoud sound when set properly...that part is the same for your trimmer!!!

 

[BISCUT]

I have run 40:1 for many years. I've also used "synthetic" of which usually Royal Purple just because it's readily available and not too costly from Amazon. Kept my Echo SRM2400 alive for 2 decades and my Husq Rancher 455 going on 16 years.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted by demarpaint
I run mine at 32:1. I pulled apart enough 2 stroke engines that were run at 50:1 to convince me 32:1 was the way to go.

Landscapers who run machines hard do the same around here.


I've been running 40:1. With 32:1 would i need to retune the carb? i've never tried 32:1 before. I cant tell a lot of tuning difference in 40:1 from 50:1 but i'm thinking it changes somewhere.

 

[Cujet]

Originally Posted by jeepman3071
Yes, 50:1 is perfectly fine, when a good oil is used. Running a different oil ratio like 40:1 or 32:1 won't make cheaper built equipment last any longer.


Not exactly correct. The lower the engine quality the more oil ratio matters.

I've posted our two stroke oil testing results here many times. It's no surprise that 32 to 1 provided the lowest wear rates in conventional engines. More oil than that only served to increase HP and decrease carbon. All the way to an absurdly smokey and difficult to use, 8 to 1.

Regardless of oil chosen, 100 to 1 increased wear markedly.


I agree that the scratches and scoring is likely due to air filtering issues, or particulates getting inside the muffler, and back into the cylinder. However that is not always the case. There are times when insufficient oil can cause a galling effect, leading to scoring.

Also, insufficient warm up time plays a role.


For a two stroke engine to last, a number of critical items must be addressed.

1) Sufficient oil
2) Sufficient octane
3) Ignition timing that does not promote detonation (which greatly expands the piston)
4) Sufficient warm up time
5) Clean operating conditions
6) Quality construction, no burrs, no sharp port edges, chrome faced rings, etc
7) Jetting/air-fuel mixture must be the correct, WHICH IS AN overrich mixture. (I know people use the words lean and rich in relation to feel, but objective measurement places the fuel/air mix solidly into the over rich zone. Two stroke engines run cleanly at 12.6 parts of air to 1 part of fuel. NOTE: getting a two stroke engine to run cleanly at 14.7 to 1 takes an act of god. Most people would state that chemically perfect ratio feels very "lean" by observation.

 

[Cujet]

Note: I wanted to add that ethanol can be used in two stroke engines with good results. Oil can be mixed with the fuel, and the setup can operate well. However,........

Sometimes the ethanol causes operational issues unrelated to the mixture of oil and jetting. The ethanol can separate out in the crankcase in small quantities. Leading to strange running conditions that seem to be both too lean and too rich simultaneously. This is particularly a problem with lower RPM, larger two stroke engines under low load conditions.

 

[userfriendly]

Add; Run your chainsaws at WOT when cutting.

I used to fancy myself a tuner of 2 stroke MX motorcycles. Cujet has it right. More oil = more HP. Use premium ethanol free marine gasoline.
I go rich with the jetting until the engine starts to become lazy, then lean it one step. Read the spark plugs if all else fails.

 

[ARB1977]

Amsoil Saber at 80:1 to 100:1 for the win. Using it the last two years in my Sthil attachment engine. I take it a step further by making my own E0 fuel. 93 octane and 32 oz of water. Water and ethanol mix together. Drain the water out till you see the separation. My five gallon can has a drain hose at the bottom.

 

[userfriendly]

Just when you've heard it all, someone leaves the cake out in the rain. What is the octane with the ethanol removed? Why mix 80-100:1 when more oil makes more power and reduces wear?
The better the oil, the more you can use without issues. Not the other way around.

 

[Lubener]

I usually mix the oil with a little less than one gallon of gas.

 

[tundraotto]

Originally Posted by userfriendly
Just when you've heard it all, someone leaves the cake out in the rain. What is the octane with the ethanol removed? Why mix 80-100:1 when more oil makes more power and reduces wear?
The better the oil, the more you can use without issues. Not the other way around.


Because most people dont know how to tune 2-stoke carbs and dont understand that a richer ratio almost always makes MORE power if tuned correctly.
38:1 for me - with the best 2 stroke oil I know of for my OPE - Motul 800T

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted by ARB1977
Amsoil Saber at 80:1 to 100:1 for the win. Using it the last two years in my Sthil attachment engine. I take it a step further by making my own E0 fuel. 93 octane and 32 oz of water. Water and ethanol mix together. Drain the water out till you see the separation. My five gallon can has a drain hose at the bottom.


I run amsoil as well. But not 100:1.

I know some do, but I'm not risking a high dollar saw with that mix.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

50:1 Stihl Synthetic or Echo Power Blend or 80:1 Amsoil Saber in my 4-mix Stihl blower, trimmer and 2-stroke Echo chainsaws.

 

[jakewells]

I run 32:1 in everything just because i got a lawnboy and to correct one on here that said lawn boy's have bushings yes the old ones do but the F engines use needle bearing upper and lower on the crankshaft along with needle rollers on the connecting rod.

 

[userfriendly]

I like those little 100ml bottles from Husky and Stihl that result in around 38:1 with a gallon of premium boat gas.
I save the empty bottles and refill them from a jug of Shell Ultra synthetic 2-stroke.

 

[andyd]

Originally Posted by jakewells
I run 32:1 in everything just because i got a lawnboy and to correct one on here that said lawn boy's have bushings yes the old ones do but the F engines use needle bearing upper and lower on the crankshaft along with needle rollers on the connecting rod.


Thanks Jake, Older LBs with bushings used a 16:1 mix. Just for nostalgia, I fired up my '88 F engined LB. It has a broken recoil, so I started it with a drill. Tried the 3/8 HF, no dice. Hadda use the 1/2" drive torque monster. Lit right off and I trimmed the perimeters and edges.

 

[ARB1977]

Originally Posted by userfriendly
Just when you've heard it all, someone leaves the cake out in the rain. What is the octane with the ethanol removed? Why mix 80-100:1 when more oil makes more power and reduces wear?
The better the oil, the more you can use without issues. Not the other way around.

I've been told it drops octane by 3 points. Mind you Amsoil Saber says to run at 80-100:1. The exhaust port is clean and that engine sings all day without skipping a beat. Don't be a chicken. Saber does a great job.