How about M1 5w30 EP?
Is 0-40 full syn the oil to end all oils?
- Thread starter bottgers
- Start date
- Status
You mentioned several times that you are only interested in an oil going 12K. I didn't see any UOA's that you have done. Have you done any?
If not you-are shooting in the dark. Mobil 1 5w30 and 10w30 and Amsoil have gone that distance. So could any other true synthetic oil without breaking a sweat. But only in a mechanically soune engine (as Amsoil puts it). Obviously you need to insure that you don't have issues like dilution or antifreeze.
Conversing with you folks, and the folks in the edmunds.com forum, I'm so confused I don't know whether to wind my butt or scratch my watch. Many over there seem to think the M1 0W-40 is so superior they recommend using it even though my engine calls for 5w30. Between the two forums I've gone from being content with my Havoline dino and 6K change intervals, to wanting to go to a full syn and extending my intervals out to 12K, to now being completely confused. Both sides make very good arguments.
I'd really like to avoid having to do UOA's if at all possible. I would just like to switch over to a true full syn that's good for 12K and forget about it. Certainly in this day and age of all these super oils there's got to be an oil that will, without question, be good for that long without having to do UOA's. I know most of you will probably frown on that, but I just don't have time to be doing OUA's. I can tell you this engine seems to be very clean. Even at 6K, when I dump the Havoline you can still see through it.
I'd really like to avoid having to do UOA's if at all possible. I would just like to switch over to a true full syn that's good for 12K and forget about it. Certainly in this day and age of all these super oils there's got to be an oil that will, without question, be good for that long without having to do UOA's. I know most of you will probably frown on that, but I just don't have time to be doing OUA's. I can tell you this engine seems to be very clean. Even at 6K, when I dump the Havoline you can still see through it.
I would give the advantage to the Edmunds forums when discussing car prices, cup holders or "what color car should I buy". The advantage goes to BITOG when discussing oil.
If I had an engine that called for 5w30 and wanted 12K OCI's, I would just use Mobil 1 EP, 5w30. That'w what the oil's made fore, that's what the engine calls for.
Why are you giving yourself a headache? It's engine oil, not fine wine. Your transmission will probably puke up long before your engine anyway.
Why are you giving yourself a headache? It's engine oil, not fine wine. Your transmission will probably puke up long before your engine anyway.
12K OCI ? I'd run a Blackstone Used Oil Analysis at 8K to 9K.
I'd use:
-Redline 5w30
-Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30
-BMW LongLife 5w30 [ a good value at BMW dealers]
-Mobil 1 5w30 EP
-Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40
I'd also use LubeControl LC-20 in the oil and FP60 in the fuel.... and a top rated oil filter.
I'd use:
-Redline 5w30
-Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30
-BMW LongLife 5w30 [ a good value at BMW dealers]
-Mobil 1 5w30 EP
-Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40
I'd also use LubeControl LC-20 in the oil and FP60 in the fuel.... and a top rated oil filter.
JHZR2
Staff member
M1 0W-40 is fine for 18K mi OCIs in the latest saab engines.
granted, theyre designed for such oils in suc use profiles.
that siad, GCisrated GM-LL-025-A, so its good for 18k mi OCIs in that engine range as well!
JMH
granted, theyre designed for such oils in suc use profiles.
that siad, GCisrated GM-LL-025-A, so its good for 18k mi OCIs in that engine range as well!
JMH
I'm trying some 10w30 M1 EP in the newer Taurus, and it seems to almost run as quiet as the M1 0W40 that I ran for a couple of changes. I wanted to see if the mileage would improve, it hasn't, so I may go back to 0W40 since I'll be using it in the older car. I tried the M1 0W40 as the M1 T&S 5W40 wouldn't always turn over easily on a cold morning, and it seemed to be a good choice as the 0W40 does.
But, if the AutoRx improves the oil consumption in the older car I might also switch both to the M1 10W30 EP.
But, if the AutoRx improves the oil consumption in the older car I might also switch both to the M1 10W30 EP.
Why the reluctance to do the one (and only) thnig that will show if a given oil in your car will do O.K. at 12K OCI?
We have seen all of the true syns here go 10/12K with excellent results. Conversely we have seen any number of these oils give terrible results at 3K miles. Some car manufactures (Honda/Acura) recommend 10K on dino oils. OCI for a good oil like Amsoil, GC, Mobil 1, RedLine is not the issue on a mechanically sound engine. Condition of the engine is and is determined by Oil Analysis. This in turn dictates the OCI (as I am sure you realize)
So if you desire 12K intervals and are asking whether the above oils can do it (in your car) the answer is "maybe" or "yes" with a 80% Confidence Level.. No one alive can give you a "yes" answer with a very high Confidense Level- without a UOA.
So with the condition of no UOA desired I would suggest shorter OCIs.
Yes. I don't get his aversion to UOA's. You can have an oil change place do your sampling for you, if it's that difficult.
The German Castrol FAQ should answer your questions:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=51;t=000934
GC is a bit cheaper than M1 EP here in MN, that might be different where you live.
I'll probably get brow-beaten for this, but I think I'm just gonna go with the recommended weight of M1 EP for my Corolla. I truely feel it will be good for 12K OCI's without a problem, and without doing a UOA. The dino I'm currently running in this engine stays amazingly clean, so I really don't think I've got any issues going on that would cause an oil to break down prematurely. Go ahead, let the brow-beating commence!
I think you will be fine with the M1 EP and 12,000 mile changes. I also think you would be fine with m1 0w-40 and 12,000 mile changes. I am using both in two car with 10,000 mile changes but then I am very consertative. The M1 EP has a little better additive pack. The m1 0-40 has a better HTHS rating which the European manufactures think is important. I think both are great oils!
bottgers
Member
Member # 132
posted 19 July, 2006 00:11
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'll probably get brow-beaten for this, but I think I'm just gonna go with the recommended weight of M1 EP for my Corolla. I truely feel it will be good for 12K OCI's without a problem, and without doing a UOA. The dino I'm currently running in this engine stays amazingly clean, so I really don't think I've got any issues going on that would cause an oil to break down prematurely. Go ahead, let the brow-beating commence!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posts: 262 | From: Cheyenne | Registered: Jul 2002 | IP: Logged |
bottgers thats not going to happen mate. But I think you made a good choice as long as there is no mechianical engine problems.
Member
Member # 132
posted 19 July, 2006 00:11
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'll probably get brow-beaten for this, but I think I'm just gonna go with the recommended weight of M1 EP for my Corolla. I truely feel it will be good for 12K OCI's without a problem, and without doing a UOA. The dino I'm currently running in this engine stays amazingly clean, so I really don't think I've got any issues going on that would cause an oil to break down prematurely. Go ahead, let the brow-beating commence!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posts: 262 | From: Cheyenne | Registered: Jul 2002 | IP: Logged |
bottgers thats not going to happen mate. But I think you made a good choice as long as there is no mechianical engine problems.
Running 12,000 miles/1 year in a non turbocharged, fuel efficient, four cylinder engine is really NOT that challenging. I've been running intervals longer than this for the past 28 years; typically with 10w30 or 5w30, PAO/Ester synthetics.
I'd go with the 5w30 or 10w30, M1/EP over the 0w-40 in this application and I wouldn't bother with testing the stuff. You won't understand what the test results mean anyway without a background in engineering and lots of experience interpreting oil analysis results.
TS
I'd go with the 5w30 or 10w30, M1/EP over the 0w-40 in this application and I wouldn't bother with testing the stuff. You won't understand what the test results mean anyway without a background in engineering and lots of experience interpreting oil analysis results.
TS
- Status