Intermittent starting and weird electrical issues - 2008 Rogue

y_p_w

y_p_w

Joined
May 6, 2005
Messages
12,058
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Dad called me asking if I could help. Brought jumpers but couldn’t get it to start. I drove someone he had with him but later he called and said it started, and he drove it home.

I went today to check on it, and it started in the morning. But later I got back to borrow it, and nothing. It’s really odd. Sometimes there’s a little bit of clicking and just refuses to do anything useful. Lights will dim or just completely shut down. I brought my Schumacher 12A charger with a voltage reading while it isn’t charging, and it’s reading a consistent 12.3 or higher (after charging). So it’s not a weak battery.

Maybe the ground wire? It got whacked several times by a broken serpentine belt where the insulation is partially ripped off. Not sure that it would be a problem. Or maybe something else.
 
when i hear of strange electrical problems, i always think of a bad ground somewhere.
 
y_p_w said:
Dad called me asking if I could help. Brought jumpers but couldn’t get it to start. I drove someone he had with him but later he called and said it started, and he drove it home.

I went today to check on it, and it started in the morning. But later I got back to borrow it, and nothing. It’s really odd. Sometimes there’s a little bit of clicking and just refuses to do anything useful. Lights will dim or just completely shut down. I brought my Schumacher 12A charger with a voltage reading while it isn’t charging, and it’s reading a consistent 12.3 or higher (after charging). So it’s not a weak battery.

Maybe the ground wire? It got whacked several times by a broken serpentine belt where the insulation is partially ripped off. Not sure that it would be a problem. Or maybe something else.
Click to expand...
of course check the wiring that's frayed or broken, that's the basic.. I wanted to make you aware that my friend's 13 rogue was acting odd, fog lights one would be on, other off.. Long starting times, even though the battery was good. Turn signals that were slow to respond to turning the stalk on. Things like that, I know there were others but you get the idea. Tracked it down to a bad IPDM (fancy name for the relay box in the engine) the CAN system has everything go through that "brain" to ask for things like the turn signal to come on, nothing is directly wired. And of course Nissan didn't give the option of sockets for the relays, noooo they made the brilliant idea to solder them directly to the board. Have to buy the entire thing for around $700! ouch indeed.

My friend paid that and I installed it for them. Didn't need the Nissan programmer since a new IPDM is "blank' and writes the info to it automatically.

Just making you aware of it in case this is your issue.. might not be but doesn't hurt to know extra info..
 
I stayed with my parents overnight (long story) and I checked this morning. It’s bizarre where I can get the power lock to work, but after trying to start it, everything goes batty. Then I hear a lot of clicking around the radio/CD changer.

I also can’t find a 10mm socket in a set I brought with me, and nothing else works for the battery clamps or the ground strap connector. I tried a 7/16” and it slightly rounded off the head. Probably need to dig around for one since I think my dad might have an old socket set. I was hoping maybe loosening the ground strap and breaking off any oxidation might help. I do remember years ago I had electrical problems with my ‘95 Integra, where a new engine to chassis ground wire seemed to do the trick.

I’m hoping maybe a full charge might help.

I found a 10mm socket and loosened the battery ground and let it sit a while. Also the ground strap, but just the top bolt. After reconnecting the problem still persists.

I can open and close the windows if the charger is connected and charging.

There were some weird things last night. I could open and close the window at times like with the accessory key position, but at other times nothing worked and I heard clocking noises coming from the hood near the headlight. At one point I had to connect my charger and it would work again. There was one time where it seemed like it was in accessory mode without the key and the power windows worked.

It’s hard to describe everything, but it’s more like a lot different conditions where various components work, then stop working once I try to start the engine.
 
I’m going with, bad battery, bad connection, bad alternator. Maybe all 3 even. Depending on age, maybe toss a battery at it first?
 
Sounds like a bad ground on the negative cable. If its anything like my two nissan's, the negative cable end is just a piece of metal wrapped around with a 10mm bolt. They can feel tight but are not. Take it off, clean, squish it together a bit with some plyers, and try again. Its always the same - radio, etc works, but won't start.

Or it could be the IPDM as mentioned. Hope not. My IPDM isn't coded, so junkyard model might be possible?
 
y_p_w said:
Everything dies completely after trying to start, but then eventually might work again.
Click to expand...
I think, connection to battery, or low battery.

What was the charged battery voltage again? you said 12.3 which sounds low. If you key it, and it quits, what is the voltage at the battery? and if you can, someplace else, cig lighter or whatever. I am wondering if voltage is just too low.
 
On any Nissan I have touched there are two primary grounds - body and chasis - both on the negative cable. I haven't looked a 2008 rogue, but this is normal for most vehicles I think. I believe if it were simply a ground, then something would work since unlikely both points fail at one point.

The IPDM controls voltage to many things, but not everything. For example my windows aren't connected via the IPDM - there direct wire. So even if the IPDM shuts down I would think something should work. When it quits completely next time, try some different things.

I am still leaning towards a negative cable at the battery, or the positive cable at the battery. Is there a fusible link that could be fried? If it were the IPDM something would work. If the battery were almost dead the radio would still turn on. If it was the Nats the dash would still light up.

Not sure how it might help - but you could try the active auto test?

 
SC Maintenance said:
On any Nissan I have touched there are two primary grounds - body and chasis - both on the negative cable. I haven't looked a 2008 rogue, but this is normal for most vehicles I think. I believe if it were simply a ground, then something would work since unlikely both points fail at one point.

The IPDM controls voltage to many things, but not everything. For example my windows aren't connected via the IPDM - there direct wire. So even if the IPDM shuts down I would think something should work. When it quits completely next time, try some different things.

I am still leaning towards a negative cable at the battery, or the positive cable at the battery. Is there a fusible link that could be fried? If it were the IPDM something would work. If the battery were almost dead the radio would still turn on. If it was the Nats the dash would still light up.

Not sure how it might help - but you could try the active auto test?

Click to expand...


There’s a big setup at the positive terminal, and I think it’s a fusible link. I’ll take a picture later.

I also used my charger as a voltmeter and got weird results depending on where I placed the ground. Near the battery is a solid 12.6V after it was fully charged but after sitting for an hour. But some spots grounded on the engine heat shield the voltage is constantly changing to as little as 0 v. I mean, the voltage is moving around.
 
I think this is the fusible link and they all look intact.

IMG_4071.jpeg
 
Not too surprised on the heat shield, it may not be well connected. But keep looking at the cables, the neg side in particular. Shake the wires/cables and make sure they are not corroded.
 
My dad got it to start again. Can’t figure out how, but I do remember previously doing a battery change where it wouldn’t work until waiting a few hours. I disconnected the battery, so maybe it’s similar. I guess they don’t have to drive this car much and can see if it consistently starts now before relying on it.
 
I’m wondering if the issue might have been temperature dependent. It was colder in the morning, and I previously tried starting when it was warm. I guess the fusible link box might be a cheap thing I can try myself.

It did have a plastic cover that I pulled off before taking the photo.
 
Theres 4 one time fuses in that contraption. You can take it off - disconnect the connectors on the bottom, and ohm it out. Its not magic - its a fuse. If there is no resistance and the don't appear broken - its likely OK. Under the two nuts - one is directly to the battery post connector, and the other goes to the starter - are a good place for corrosion.

Those 4 fuses go to the main systems - ECU, BCU, brake controller, IPDM, etc.

I fried one while I was messing with something I shouldn't have one time. I have heard of them failing on the Nissan boards. I carry a spare now.

1703370374198.jpg
 
SC Maintenance said:
Theres 4 one time fuses in that contraption. You can take it off - disconnect the connectors on the bottom, and ohm it out. Its not magic - its a fuse. If there is no resistance and the don't appear broken - its likely OK. Under the two nuts - one is directly to the battery post connector, and the other goes to the starter - are a good place for corrosion.

Those 4 fuses go to the main systems - ECU, BCU, brake controller, IPDM, etc.

I fried one while I was messing with something I shouldn't have one time. I have heard of them failing on the Nissan boards. I carry a spare now.

View attachment 194548
Click to expand...

Also one at the top. The four at the bottom say 100, but the one at the top says 140.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

I
Napa AGM CCA dropped 10% after 2 months
Replies
12
Views
1K
benjy
E
Loose battery terminal connection inadvertently leads to a battery test showdown
Replies
3
Views
1K
Elektrishun
A
2015 rav 4 randomly started flickering as i parked, now doesn't start. batt or alt?
Replies
16
Views
1K
97prizm
A
Flickering dash at idle, did not start after I shut it off, battery voltage 12.7 when off. Is alternator fine?
Replies
13
Views
1K
mk378
Blake1107
2008 HHR Electrical Issues?
Replies
14
Views
484
Rmay635703
Back
Top