Ignition Switch removal/replacing?

[JasonTL]

So, I believe I have traced my electrical problems to my ignition switch.

Only problem is removing the ignition switch(Note, I am talking about the electrical switch, not the key cylinder). I know where the switch is, the problem is I can't reach it. When I lower the steering column slightly I can see the switch, one or two bolts attaching it, the control rod, and the wires going into it. But I can't reach it like that. I have tried reaching under the dash and can't even get my hands on the switch.

Is it safe for me to lower my steering column far enough to reach the switch?
Or should I remove the column to get to the switch?
Or is there something obvious I'm missing here?

I've searched the internet and Youtube over and no one seems to show you how to remove and replace this switch. Everyone thinks it's the key cylinder. My Chilton also fails to tell me how to do it(their instructions are very vague on this).

Thank you for any help.

 

[GMBoy]

Yes, Chilton manuals are not very good. What vehicle is this?

Generally speaking, yes you could just loosed the few bolts that hold the column up and let it hang down where you can more easily reach the switch. Also - you may be able to remove the cluster and reach thru and get it to depending on model.

 

[JasonTL]

I keep my car info in my sig, bottom of my post.
But it is a 1988 GMC Suburban, 1/2 ton.

Letting it hang is safe? It won't bend the steering or anything?

 

[eljefino]

Drop it. The u-joint under the hood can handle it.

Just don't hammer on it, there's a plastic shear doohickey you can bust.

 

[JasonTL]

Thanks. I dropped it and let it hang. I removed some brackets on it and was able to make enough room to get the Ignition switch off. Guess what I found.

I think it's safe to say that should NOT look burnt.
I'm going to replace the ignition switch(which, BTW, has a rattling sound it in when I shake it) and I think I can replace that connector, which would be good.

Any other advice/suggestions for this?

I also did a continuity test from that burnt orange wire and it went back to the HTR AUX, HTR-A/C and PWR WND, which is exactly what I expected. This is at least part of my Window and AC power problem.

I'm thinking about opening that switch up and see how the inside looks since I'm getting a new one anyway.

 

[punisher]

It thought it was a Ford. I forget how many dozen ignition switch recalls I had to do at the dealership.

 

[JasonTL]

Nope, GMC

This is definitely an original from the looks of it. So ~25 years old.

The question is, though, what caused it to burn like this? Age? Or do I have a problem somewhere? This Circuit powers Heat, Aux Heat, AC, and Power Windows. Consequently, currently none of those work(hence what got me looking into the electrical and eventually finding this).

 

[morris]

i had a 1982 dodge 3/4 ton do that after the 2 nd one, i rigged up a relay to take the current load off the stock switch. mine was caused by the current for the A/C was loading the stock switch to much. it was hard to do but worth the trouble.

 

[JasonTL]

It WORKED!

Well, I did expect it to, haha.

I replaced the ignition switch and after getting it tightened in the right spot I reconnected the battery and turned the key. Started right up. I tested the 3rd column in the fusebox and got a pretty 14.6v(that's nice to see). operated some of my windows and my Passenger front and middle work fine(albeit a bit slow, probably need to get some lubricant spray on the hinges and track). My Driver's middle didn't work but the glass is cracked so I don't want it to go down currently. I had previously removed my Driver's front motor and regulator. The motor power connector, however, has a full 14v so I have no doubt that will work once I put it back together. I think that motor may be bad though so I may replace it after I test it.

Thanks for the help and encouragement.

I just noticed I'm missing two of the nuts holding the steering column mount on. I have two, but there should be 4. Can I buy those bolts somewhere?

@Morris, I chose not to put a relay currently. I do like the idea though. I may in the future but for now I just wanted to get my accessories working(namely, windows and AC).