I want to run a thicker oil but…

I have had engine run their entire lives on 5w-30 when speced 0w-20 I just moved to 10w-40 in my neighbors 350K Tahoe that's burning about 1 quart every 1.5k. 3 runs of VRP didnt help so I imagine the rings are just worn not stuck.

You will be fine going to 10w-30 or 5w-30.
 
I bought a truck with 250k to use as a farm truck. It doesn’t leak oil and it doesn’t smoke but it’s using a quart of oil every 500 or so miles. I’m considering running a thicker oil to see if it slows consumption but I’ve seen so many oil experts online that say to not go heavier than the manufacturer recommended viscosity. It’s a 2004 F150 5.4L and the factory recommends 5w20. Twenty weight isn’t very thick. Would it be unspeakable to use good old 10w30?
Anyone who tells you that you can’t run a 30 grade in any engine that has a lower grade recommended by the manufacturer isn’t an “oil expert”, period.
 
All my RX8s get 20w-50 and Mazda only recommends 5w-20 for all climates and usage patterns. (US owners manual).

Will my Incorrect Viscosity Trophy be sent to me, or do I pick up personally at the awards ceremony?

OP, my .02 is run VRP 5w30 for the recommended time (5 changes I believe) and reassess. If consumption is still high, go thick and don’t worry about it at all. 40 or even 50 multigrade.

Also ditch the usage of AI search engine results. They are hilariously bad, especially lately.
 
All my RX8s get 20w-50 and Mazda only recommends 5w-20 for all climates and usage patterns. (US owners manual).

Idemitsu has 10W-30 and 20W-50 racing oils for Mazda rotary.
However, thinner oil might be preferred for everyday use because the lubrication system of the rotary engine is actually an oil injection system. Do you use any 2-stroke oil in your gasoline?

As far as I know from 2-stroke oil injected bikes - oils of SAE40 or thicker are not suitable for the oil injection and that is said in their description. But also the Mazda engine supposedly has wider oil passages than a 2-stroke motorcycle injection.



Btw, the OP stated that he lives in a hot climate. So the 30 grade oil is the minimum he need. :)
I’m located in the Mississippi delta. Low temps rarely make it below the teens and thats only a few days a year. Summer has 30 days of 90-100 degree days.
 
Yes, I am aware. Thanks for taking the time to post the video. The OMPs are running 2T oil through a Sohn, and I premix also.
I ran 20w-50 in my 1983 RX7 also in the 80s. Just pulled from the sump on that one, no adapter.
 
I bought a truck with 250k to use as a farm truck. It doesn’t leak oil and it doesn’t smoke but it’s using a quart of oil every 500 or so miles. I’m considering running a thicker oil to see if it slows consumption but I’ve seen so many oil experts online that say to not go heavier than the manufacturer recommended viscosity. It’s a 2004 F150 5.4L and the factory recommends 5w20. Twenty weight isn’t very thick. Would it be unspeakable to use good old 10w30?
I recommend 5w30 Valvoline Restore and Protect (VRP) with a good premium oil filter. My preferred filter id NAPA Gold followed by any of the following: Oreilly Microgard Select, Autozone STP XL premium, Advance Autoparts Carquest Premium, Valvoline premium filter, or Premium Guard XL.

During first use of VRP, change the filter early: At 500 miles if very dirty engine, 1000 miles if dirty engine, 2500 miles if normal engine. Then change filter a second time when you change the VRP oil at 5000 miles. VRP oil is good for 5000 miles, even in a dirty engine. VRP oil might even last 7500 miles in a clean engine, but if your engine was clean you'd have no reason to use VRP.

At first oil change at 5000 miles, change filter and oil. For each use of VRP after that, change oil and filter at 5000 miles.

Use VRP for 4 to 5 oil change intervals. i.e. - for 20-25K miles. Then choose a good 5w30 high mileage oil for use after that.
 
All my RX8s get 20w-50 and Mazda only recommends 5w-20 for all climates and usage patterns. (US owners manual).

Will my Incorrect Viscosity Trophy be sent to me, or do I pick up personally at the awards ceremony?

OP, my .02 is run VRP 5w30 for the recommended time (5 changes I believe) and reassess. If consumption is still high, go thick and don’t worry about it at all. 40 or even 50 multigrade.

Also ditch the usage of AI search engine results. They are hilariously bad, especially lately.
The AI is just as confused as most people are...pulling info from multiple contradictory sources..
 
Garbage in, garbage out. Any failure of the system is a reflection of the failure of the human input. That's why mods don't allow posting of AI-generated content when they see it. (y)
It seems like the AI generated stuff is getting worse as more AI generated stuff is showing up in AI generated stuff. A feedback loop that I can’t wait to see the outcome of.
 
The AI is just as confused as most people are...pulling info from multiple contradictory sources..
Yes. Google AI search only knows (and regurgitates) what people have posted/published on topics. AI has no understanding of which people posted correct vs incorrect info. AI also has no understanding of specific circumstances or special citmrcumstances. Searches driven by AI are just plagerism machines with no other skills beyond finding info people posted and then plagerizing it (often out of context).
 
I bought a truck with 250k to use as a farm truck. It doesn’t leak oil and it doesn’t smoke but it’s using a quart of oil every 500 or so miles. I’m considering running a thicker oil to see if it slows consumption but I’ve seen so many oil experts online that say to not go heavier than the manufacturer recommended viscosity. It’s a 2004 F150 5.4L and the factory recommends 5w20. Twenty weight isn’t very thick. Would it be unspeakable to use good old 10w30?
I have a 2005 F150 5.4 3V that i’ve had since new. It has 242K miles. I have always done 5K oil changes with 5W-30 since new. Never had a problem with it.

IMG_0333.webp
 
Back
Top Bottom