I want to go 5W-20 in my GM 3100 Series III "L82"

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Hello all. I am new here i recently aquired a 1998 Olds Achieva. The "Low Coolant" light is on all the time and i changed the oil, it looked dark and not milky. It had not been changed in some time. This car darkens its oil quickly.

Im having had it for three months and aside from wanting to fix the Low Coolant light, i also want to go as thin as I can on the motor oil. I am thinking Blue Devil as a fix for the light, the level is not low. I have flushed it and considerably monitored its level, its not an external leak that drips to the ground.

Reading Motor Oil 101, i want to try out the 5W-20 of a high-moly oil "Nextgen" (the one that says "Maxlife" on it, i know the normal Nextgen does not have moly.) I have no idea my oil pressure. I put 5w30 in the last OC to clean it out, and also put in some moly in a can i bought at NAPA. again after reading here. Half a can i used. It runs well. I drove so much i want to give 5W-20 a show. Is this adviseable?

There is no smoke on this car. However, it does have an odd issue, i have manual control of the cooling fan. AC on = Fan On. AC Off = Fan off, if i leave it run for ~10 minutes the gauge is closer to 3/4 than 1/2 and comes down when I either 1) drive the car away, or 2) put the fans on. This is not normal operation, however i am used to it.

My goal is fuel economy,preserving my engine not ruining it, and having peace of mind over the Low Coolant light (read: Fixing it right, within my budget.)

Here is from Wiki about my engine.

My tires are inflated high ~36psi, closer to 40psi hot
No excess weight in my car, just me
Needs tune up and new spark plugs Engine more sludged than not sludged, can post fill hole in time, its not horrible but it blackens oil quickly.
No "White ring" in Oil fill cap, but had some "Black mayonnaise" in Coolant cap. it has stopped after the flushing, which apparently had never been done. Refilled with 50//50 Dexcool, Orange coolant, as it said to do so in engine bay. "Special fill procedure" was not followed.
Other than that.. Can i try 5W-20? And about that Coolant light, what am i looking at to make it stay off?

? Thank you.

From WIKI RE: My engine.
Generation IIIThe third generation of the 60° engine was introduced in the 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. It was still an iron block/aluminum head engine, but the heads were redesigned for better air flow and the flat-tappet cam of the generation I and II motors was replaced with a roller lifter cam.

From the mid-1990s to 2003 these engines had failure prone intake manifold gaskets which could cause coolant leakage often leading to engine failure. A series of class action lawsuits, implicating deterioration of the nylon/silicone material of the gasket are pending on this issue. Tell-tale signs of such eventual related damage are a white foam that appears on the inside of the oil filler cap and the gradually increasing loss of antifreeze coolant (due to seepage into the intake passages which will lead to engine lock up failure in such cases). External seepage is also found near the valley edge of the lower intake manifold.

[edit] 3.1L/3100[edit] L82The L82 ("M-code") was an updated, SFI version of the MPFI LH0, produced from 1993 through 1999. It featured a structural oil pan, a stiffer redesigned engine block, and sequential fuel injection. Output for this version was up 20 hp (15 kW), over the previous Gen II LH0, to 160 hp (119 kW) at 5200 rpm and 185 lb·ft (251 N·m) at 4000 rpm. Compression Ratio for the L82 was 9.5:1 and the bore measured 89 mm (3.5 in) while the stroke was 84 mm (3.3 in) giving it a displacement of 191 CID (3,136 cc).

Applications:

1994–1999 Buick Century
1994–1996 Buick Regal
1994–1996 Chevrolet Beretta
1994–1996 Chevrolet Corsica
1995–1999 Chevrolet Lumina
1997–1999 Chevrolet Malibu
1993–1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (1993 received both LH0 and L82 3.1 L motors)
1994–1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera
1994–1999 Pontiac Grand Prix
1994–1998 Pontiac Grand Am
1994–1998 Buick Skylark
1994–1998 Oldsmobile Achieva
1995–1999 Chevrolet Monte Carlo
 
besides the coolant problem which im not goin into...

as far as running a 5/20 id advise against it. if your looking for better mileage try a 0/30 like mobil1 afe
 
Originally Posted By: electrolover
besides the coolant problem which im not goin into...

as far as running a 5/20 id advise against it. if your looking for better mileage try a 0/30 like mobil1 afe


I will consider 0W-30 AFE. Not Castrol's 0W-30? And why 0W-30 over 5w30 and not 5W-20 over 5w30? Thanks

As to the coolant issue (coolant light issue) The coolant issue scares me. The car runs well.. but i need to do something soon or i will lose the engine? I dont see all the signs of coolant in the oil, either. More like little to no sign. But something is wrong. Please tell me more? I say again, the engine runs well, and all attempts to get the light to go out by messing with coolant level have failed. How much longer do i have? What do i look for?
 
Originally Posted By: Peanut_Butter
The coolant issue scares me.

It should.

Originally Posted By: Peanut_Butter
I dont see all the signs of coolant in the oil

Rhetorical question for you: If the coolant isn't going into the oil, where is it going?

(I know the answer to this question... from personal experience.
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Castrol is HTHS is close to the lighter 40 weights like M1 0W40 and will result in similar fuel mileage. 0W30 AFE will give better fuel mileage.

You could have an air bubble or you could simply have a faulty sensor. If its full and the coolant light is still on the light isnt being caused by a leak.

If your worried about the leaking coolant from the intake these engines are prone to have an oil analysis done.
I would put in a cheap on sale 10W30 in that doesnt contain sodium along with a cheap oil filter. Run it a few miles then dump it and refill with the same oil + a new filter. Drive it about 500-1000 miles then send the oil in for analysis.
 
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The coolant level switch sticks up into a recess in the bottom of the reservoir. Usually they are magnetic switches that are activated by a floating magnet inside the reservoir. If there is gunk in the reservoir that is causing the float to be "glued" to the bottom, then the level switch will give a false "low coolant" signal. This has happened to me before. Test the hypothesis by having an assistant look at the dashboard indicator while you lower the sensor out of its recess. If it's the problem, remove the reservoir and clean thoroughly.

Regarding the oil, Castrol's 0W-30 is not what you want because it has a very high viscosity; you will lose fuel economy. One idea is that you could get two quarts of 5W-20 and three quarts of 5w30 to make a thin 5w30. High mileage 30 weights are usually high viscosity, so in that case, I would get 3 5W-20 and 2 5w30.
 
I'd use a 30 grade oil, but would be most concerned with the coolant issue. Pressue test the system, you'll know in a matter of minutes if you have a coolant leak. There's no need for a UOA, the test results are instant with a pressure test of the cooling system. At some later point in time you can always get a UOA. If you flunk the pressure test get the leak fixed ASAP. Then take your pick from your favorite brand oil in either a 5W30 dino, 0W30 or 5W30 synthetic, and enjoy the car.
 
So far it seems that people are wound up about the coolant issue. If the coolant level stays correct in the tank, I do not think that there is a coolant issue (apart from the fact that I would not be using Dexcool in this car).

I forgot to comment on the fan behavior. I had this engine in two A-bodies. The way it worked there was that the fan was controlled by the PCM. It would command it "on" when a certain temperature was reached. Turning on the AC would lower that setpoint. If the engine is running at a temperature between the two setpoints, turning on the AC will turn on the fan. Also, in mine, the non-AC fan trigger temperature was ridiculously high. Even with a well-maintained cooling system, I found those cars to be prone to overheating on hot days, so I modified the code in my PROM to a lower, more reasonable value.
 
How much gas do you expect to save with 5W-20 oil? I doubt if you'll notice any gas mileage difference and you're putting your engine at risk. I wouldn't do it.

Motor Oil 101 ... is that the article written by Dr. Ali E. Haas, the cosmetic plastic surgeon? I've read it. I think he knows less about motor oil than I know about skin oil.

A few ways to maximize gas mileage:
--Do tune ups and other maintenance on schedule.
--Air up your tires.
--Drive slower.
--Accelerate more gradually.
--Don't carry a bunch of heavy junk around in the vehicle.
--Take off that roof rack.
--Keep in mind that just about nothing you can buy for better gas mileage will actually ever pay off.
 
Originally Posted By: Stu_Rock
So far it seems that people are wound up about the coolant issue. If the coolant level stays correct in the tank, I do not think that there is a coolant issue (apart from the fact that I would not be using Dexcool in this car).


A pressure test is a simple inexpensive way to R/O a coolant leak in an engine prone to head gasket problems. The OP owns the vehicle for 3 months, has a low coolant light issue, [which could be a faulty unit] but certainly worth pressue testing the system before replacing the sensor. JMO
 
Make sure that plug that goes to the coolant level sensor is clean and tight. that sensor can have problems. A new sensor might be in the works for you.
I've had one of these motors. If the pressure cap is dirty, replace it. Some of these engines have a 'burp' valve on the thermostat housing. It's to let any air out of the system; I don't think this car does though.
A bottle of Seafoam should help clean the injectors.
A couple of short mileage oil changes will help clean up the inside of the engine. For a 3000 mile OCI, Even SuperTech (Wal-mart) synthetic is a reasonable choice.
The stubby filter can be replaces with a PH 3980(Fram number), which is larger.
 
Original post leads me to believe that this car eats more gas then expected. Reducing the oil viscosity below the recommended level is not a good way to make it all better.

Rather, I would suggest to look at other possible reasons for bad fuel economy, and fix them. As a proactive measures, change the air filter. The spark plugs. The "upstream" lambda-sensor. The PCV valve. All these are relatively low-hanging fruits.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
The OP owns the vehicle for 3 months, has a low coolant light issue, [which could be a faulty unit] but certainly worth pressue testing the system before replacing the sensor. JMO
With eyes alone, one can see whether the coolant level switch should be on. It's a translucent tank and you can see where the switch inserts into it.
 
Was the coolant system correctly purged? The purge fitting is on the front-left of the intake manifold with a small-ish hose going into the the top of the reservoir, IIRC.You can let out any trapped air there (highest point).
 
Originally Posted By: Stu_Rock
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
The OP owns the vehicle for 3 months, has a low coolant light issue, [which could be a faulty unit] but certainly worth pressue testing the system before replacing the sensor. JMO
With eyes alone, one can see whether the coolant level switch should be on. It's a translucent tank and you can see where the switch inserts into it.


True, and it can take weeks or even months to detect a small leak. It takes minutes with a pressure tester. My FIL had a 4 cyl K car that lost about 1/4" coolant in the overflow bottle every month or so. 5 minutes with the pressure tester told me he needed a head gasket. Pulling the spark plugs and finding coolant in the #3 cylinder confirmed it.
 
If you want moly in your oil, use LubroMoly MOS2 @ ~$4.50/can.

If you are losing coolant, it might be a bad head gasket.

The special procedure for adding coolant is to use vacuum.
 
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