I picked up a 96 eclipse gs-t turbo the other day from a guy about 3hrs away.. he stored it in his garage and hasn’t changed the oil since.. the oil was pitch black when i got it.. took the chance and drove it home.. it was late at night so there was no way to change the oil prior... i changed it the next day and ran it for 5 minutes.. it didn’t look very clean at all and it seemed to have a slight gray tint to it.. im thinking about changing it again and see what i have to work with here... im guessing it was so dirty in there and since it sat for a year it was all gunked up.. what’s worrying me is the slightly gray tint thought.. i hope the head gasket isn’t going.. what do you guys think?
i think i have a problem...
- Thread starter gtpimp
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Absolutely a candidate for an Auto-Rx treatment. A used oil analysis would tell you if the head gasket is leaking.
Do 2 1k OCI's with a less expensive oil and then do a 5000 OCI with your favorite oil and a UOA.
Kestas
Staff member
Do you still have the drain oil? Look at it in the sunlight. Does the oil have a 'metallic paint' look to it?
Doing another oil change sounds like a good idea. It can only help. Not sure what the grey color means. Hopefully the grey color will go get better/go away with another change or two.
Maybe take a sample of the oil and consider doing a uoa(used oil analysis esp if the color stays grey.
Maybe take a sample of the oil and consider doing a uoa(used oil analysis esp if the color stays grey.
The car was probably driven like a rental. Most turbo DSMs are...
Is it modded at all?
Is it modded at all?
all it has is a k&n intake and greddy blow off valve... lifters tap quite loud and oil pressure is low unless i rev it up a little it goes in the middle then when it goes back to idle the pressure is low again... also whats OIC short for?
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OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: gtpimp
all it has is a k&n intake and greddy blow off valve... lifters tap quite loud and oil pressure is low unless i rev it up a little it goes in the middle then when it goes back to idle the pressure is low again... also whats OIC short for?
When you say low oil pressure, do you have a mechanical gauge to give us some real numbers?
I hope you got a good deal on the car if the engine is FUBAR.
all it has is a k&n intake and greddy blow off valve... lifters tap quite loud and oil pressure is low unless i rev it up a little it goes in the middle then when it goes back to idle the pressure is low again... also whats OIC short for?
When you say low oil pressure, do you have a mechanical gauge to give us some real numbers?
I hope you got a good deal on the car if the engine is FUBAR.
yeah i got the car real cheap.. and im just looking at the gauge cluster..
Originally Posted By: gtpimp
all it has is a k&n intake and greddy blow off valve... lifters tap quite loud and oil pressure is low unless i rev it up a little it goes in the middle then when it goes back to idle the pressure is low again... also whats OIC short for?
OCI = Oil Change Interval
Change out the PCV valve also...
all it has is a k&n intake and greddy blow off valve... lifters tap quite loud and oil pressure is low unless i rev it up a little it goes in the middle then when it goes back to idle the pressure is low again... also whats OIC short for?
OCI = Oil Change Interval
Change out the PCV valve also...
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I would not be surprised if you need an engine.
The 2nd gen motors suffer from a condition known as crank walk.
Here are two links you might want to look at.
http://www.machv.com/wal19tur.html
https://secure.buschurracing.com/catalog...7e0b2c569db6c39
Here are two links you might want to look at.
http://www.machv.com/wal19tur.html
https://secure.buschurracing.com/catalog...7e0b2c569db6c39
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Auto-Rx should fix any fixable lifter ticks. Crank end play is the liability of most manual trans engines ..but this one seems to have bigger issues with it. I'm wondering how a sandwiched clutch disc ..sitting between a flywheel and bolted pressure plate becomes unusable (I guess they mean you don't have enough pedal travel). The lateral rod angles would be an interesting sight to see when this occurs and the see-saw action must play havoc with the bearings.
On the DSM, if the crankwalk becomes excessive, clutch assembly/flywheel will move so much that the when you push the clutch pedal in, the release lever can't move far enough to push on the pressure plate! Then the pedal just stays there since the pressure plate can't spring it back.
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gtpimp, 2nd gen DSMs are not the most reliable automobiles ever built, especially as of now. These cars have a cult following so 99% of them are raced, driven like banshees, and generally abused.
You seriously may need a new shortblock. Another option would be to swap in a 1st gen 6 bolt motor, but they are very hard to find as they come with beefier rods/pistons and 7.8 to 1 compression vs. 8.5 to 1 on the 2nd gen motors. Those 6 bolt motors can reliably handle 450 whp on the stock longblock with a good tune.
You seriously may need a new shortblock. Another option would be to swap in a 1st gen 6 bolt motor, but they are very hard to find as they come with beefier rods/pistons and 7.8 to 1 compression vs. 8.5 to 1 on the 2nd gen motors. Those 6 bolt motors can reliably handle 450 whp on the stock longblock with a good tune.
clutch releases fine hmm
Drive her till she blows...then step up...
http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=203
Seriously, there are a ton of companies to choose from to get a solid shortblock. Most of the entry level setups use the 8.5 to 1 2nd gen factory pistons.
DSM parts entry level comes with 1G big rods, a 6 bolt crank, and Ross pistons for $2050. That's an indestructible combo with a stock or small turbo upgrade.
http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=203
Seriously, there are a ton of companies to choose from to get a solid shortblock. Most of the entry level setups use the 8.5 to 1 2nd gen factory pistons.
DSM parts entry level comes with 1G big rods, a 6 bolt crank, and Ross pistons for $2050. That's an indestructible combo with a stock or small turbo upgrade.
Here are some things I'd do: 1) maybe use a 15w40 heavy duty engine oil like Shell Rotella during the summer months, then switch to 5w-40 synthetic Rotella for the winter. If the oil pressure really is low, skip the normal passenger car oils. Well, a high mileage oil like Maxlife 10w-40 would work as well. No lower than a 40 weight, but be careful in winter (hence the 5w-40 recommendation).
I don't think an engine cleaner like Auto-RX would be worthwhile in an application like this.
Also, make sure that K&N is clean. If it looks nasty as heck, I'd replace the filter with an Amsoil EAA cone filter. That will filter much better.
In addition - aftermarket BOV. If the return line is not hooked back into the intake pipe, then either get a new return line ir if you have the original, hook it back up. It'll make the car run rich as heck between shifts since the MAF sensor already reads that air, but it gets dumped.
Maybe do a full tune up as well - plugs, wires, cap, rotor. If it shifts crummy, look no further than BG Synchroshift for the transaxle - tried and true by DSMers.
I don't think an engine cleaner like Auto-RX would be worthwhile in an application like this.
Also, make sure that K&N is clean. If it looks nasty as heck, I'd replace the filter with an Amsoil EAA cone filter. That will filter much better.
In addition - aftermarket BOV. If the return line is not hooked back into the intake pipe, then either get a new return line ir if you have the original, hook it back up. It'll make the car run rich as heck between shifts since the MAF sensor already reads that air, but it gets dumped.
Maybe do a full tune up as well - plugs, wires, cap, rotor. If it shifts crummy, look no further than BG Synchroshift for the transaxle - tried and true by DSMers.
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