I swear I have the worst luck...

[VNTS]

That is a good idea, if brake system is easy to pull caliper, I would do so and yank the rotor, clean the hub face and put some copper antiseieze(just a smidge) on the mating surface and put the rotor back on and reassemble. When you next have to do a brake job everything will come apart. I have scene 6 or 7 year old rotors rusted so bad to the hub, one has to pound on em to get them off, sometimes very frustrating.

Originally Posted By: Hootbro
Interesting. I may just take the screws out of my brake rotors on my KIA Soul when I rotate the tires next time. Save having to wrestle them out later come first brake job.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: stephen9666
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
Originally Posted By: NateDN10
I've been there. I wound up drilling out the two on the driver's side, and breaking 2 drill bits in the process. A neighbor saw me working and let me borrow a set of easy-outs. Those worked great.

I didn't replace the screws either.


That's the tool the OP used. I suspect he had it set wrong, so it was trying to tighten the screws.


It was set to L for loosen per the instructions.


But, did you verify the instructions were correct, and no written in terribly translated English?

If you push it by hand, you should be able to determine what way it will turn.

It seems you haven't used them before, judging by your posts.


It was turning properly, though the spring did feel softer than it should. I am starting to suspect that there is something wrong with the spring.

 

[The Critic]

Because this was not my car I think I'll just put the screws back in...just in case some dolt makes a comment about the car missing parts, even though the owner understands their lack of purpose.

I must say that these suckers are incredibly well packaged for only costing 60 cents each.

I will be sure to use plenty of anti-seize upon reinstallation.

 

[artificialist]

You don't need them on Hondas, but certain cars which do not use lugnuts do need them.

 

[MarkM66]

Originally Posted By: artificialist
You don't need them on Hondas, but certain cars which do not use lugnuts do need them.


I'm drawing a blank, what cars don't use lug nuts?

 

[SteveSRT8]

some of us don'r remember knock offs. No lug nuts!

 

[Vikas]

Do German cars using lug bolts need them?

 

[MarkM66]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
some of us don'r remember knock offs. No lug nuts!


I'm well aware of a spindle mounted wheel. What came from the factory with knock offs? Or could remotely be related to this topic?

 

[MarkM66]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
Do German cars using lug bolts need them?


Lug bolts, that's it.

 

[SLCraig]

And this is why I pulled those off my car the first time I had the wheels off. Hate those dumb screws!!!!

 

[Vikas]

For some bizarre reason, my mechanic insists on putting the screws back on. He is intelligent and very smart but I was not able to convince him that those screws were unnecessary on the Odyssey.

 

[dja4260]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
For some bizarre reason, my mechanic insists on putting the screws back on. He is intelligent and very smart but I was not able to convince him that those screws were unnecessary on the Odyssey.


That is because if there was a major failure he might possible be liable since the repair/assembly wasn't "complete".

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
Do German cars using lug bolts need them?

Yes, that and Swedish cars.

I seem to have more trouble removing those screws from SAABs than from anything else.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
For some bizarre reason, my mechanic insists on putting the screws back on. He is intelligent and very smart but I was not able to convince him that those screws were unnecessary on the Odyssey.

How do you know they're not necessary?

 

[yonyon]

Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Do German cars using lug bolts need them?

Yes, that and Swedish cars.

I seem to have more trouble removing those screws from SAABs than from anything else.


The Saabs are tighter from the get go and may have thread locker helping to hold them in. In places where rust happens, corrosion between the rotor and hub causes the Honda screws to become tighter over time. The Saab screws stay pretty much the same. Any difficulty you have with these screws on Saabs in far less that what is encountered with Honda screws in rust areas. The Saab screws will come out using the same methods, but unlike the Hondas, a little heat will make them very easy to remove.

 

[Vikas]

Why are they necessary? Rotor is not going anywhere. Pads are going to prevent it from falling on your feet when you take the wheel off. When the wheel is there, it is clamped between the wheel and the hub. I suppose when you are trying to replace the pad, it could fall on your feet but by the time pad replacement time arrives, rotor has copulated with the hub and will need lots of persuasion to separate. Can you think of a specific reason why the screws need to be there?

In general, my mechanic will do whatever I tell him to do but I have to push him a little. For example, I had him replace couple of pressure switches off the transmission or the P0420/P0430 "helper" part. He asks me, "are you sure this is going to work?" but then he does it. I just did NOT want to get in to an argument with him over those stupid screws.

 

[Scott_Tucker]

It's so the rotor stays on when you leave the lug nuts loose, and the wheel falls off. ;-)

 

[Scott_Tucker]

It's so the rotor stays on when you leave the lug nuts loose, and the wheel falls off. ;-)

 

[Vikas]

There is an important step between removing the wheels and taking off the rotor. I don't see how a rotor will come off without taking the pads off and/or removing the caliper bracket. Has anybody managed to take off a rotor without removing pads and caliper? Is it even possible?

 

[doitmyself]

One advantage I could see with the screws is that they hold the rotor tight to the hub during brake work.

Suppose you do a brake pad replacement job and the rotor comes loose just a bit and a chunk of rust or other debris breaks loose and seats between the rotor and hub to cause some runout.