They do sell a 5w50 EDGE syntec oil BUT its formulated for classic vehicles only and I heard that it damages catalytic converters because of the extra zinc. (correct me if i'm wrong.)
I have a dilema.
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And just to clarify the castrol edge oil is in BLACK bottles not gold.
Here is a technical sheet on my engine.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/80294539/d55b-2-e
It might have some info in the Lubrication section of the doc.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/80294539/d55b-2-e
It might have some info in the Lubrication section of the doc.
I think based on what you said the Denso oil filters and M1 15W50 that you are using sounds about ideal. The manual recommends a 50W at your ambient temps. Maybe a 40W oil would work OK but you don't have many choices anyway.
I listened to part of your video and there's so much extraneous noise in the background that I couldn't tell but it sounded like possibly piston slap which can be harmless and not an oil or filter issue. When people on here talk about oil being too think for optimum during cold starts, they're generally talking about temperatures near freezing and below and even then it's debated.
I wouldn't change anything that you are doing.
I listened to part of your video and there's so much extraneous noise in the background that I couldn't tell but it sounded like possibly piston slap which can be harmless and not an oil or filter issue. When people on here talk about oil being too think for optimum during cold starts, they're generally talking about temperatures near freezing and below and even then it's debated.
I wouldn't change anything that you are doing.
I'll post a vid of the car starting and running when its cold.
Here is a cold start vid with no background noise.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veYQqU7WlDU&feature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veYQqU7WlDU&feature=youtu.be
I've run M1 15W-50 in both of our Accords as well as the BMW.
Of course, a 50 grade is nothing unusual for an old BMW, but nobody in the US uses it in a Honda.
I wanted to try it and I had no problems with starts down to the 40F or so I had it in either car.
I don't think that the M1 is your problem.
Maybe your oil filter?
Of course, a 50 grade is nothing unusual for an old BMW, but nobody in the US uses it in a Honda.
I wanted to try it and I had no problems with starts down to the 40F or so I had it in either car.
I don't think that the M1 is your problem.
Maybe your oil filter?
I couldn't hear anything that sound unusual to me, other than what could have been piston slap or light valve tapping. Does the engine have mechanical cam followers and if so what is the adjustment interval recommendation? Maybe it needs a valve adjustment or maybe it just normal valve noise.
Anyway, I think your oil and filter choice is fine for the situation.
Anyway, I think your oil and filter choice is fine for the situation.
All I know is that this engine uses VVT.
Here is a video after hard driving. fully warmed up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jq0CXNtLJE&feature=channel&list=UL
Here is a video after hard driving. fully warmed up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jq0CXNtLJE&feature=channel&list=UL
The oil light staying on for a second after start is self test, not related to the noise. The noise sounds like a common issue for Toyotas - faulty/stuck vvt-i cam actuator. If you google you will find there are numerous TSB/warranty fixes for different years related to this issue.
Another reason can be oil related. The vvt actuator adjusts the cams via hydraulic pressure from the oil. If any part of the vvt system - the oil control valve, its screen, or the actuator get plugged with sludge/varnish, etc it will not align properly until there is enough pressure. Cleaning the OCV screen is a good start.
But because you've been using M1 for an extended period (assuming) I'm doubtful its any blockage. I do think a thinner startup weight may help get the oil pressure up at the actuator faster, decreasing or eliminating the noise. We run 5w30 on that engine over here, see no reason for you can't try the same, see what happens.
If a thinner M1 does not resolve the noise, you may need a new cam actuator.
Another reason can be oil related. The vvt actuator adjusts the cams via hydraulic pressure from the oil. If any part of the vvt system - the oil control valve, its screen, or the actuator get plugged with sludge/varnish, etc it will not align properly until there is enough pressure. Cleaning the OCV screen is a good start.
But because you've been using M1 for an extended period (assuming) I'm doubtful its any blockage. I do think a thinner startup weight may help get the oil pressure up at the actuator faster, decreasing or eliminating the noise. We run 5w30 on that engine over here, see no reason for you can't try the same, see what happens.
If a thinner M1 does not resolve the noise, you may need a new cam actuator.
Originally Posted By: N7Quarian
All I know is that this engine uses VVT.
Here is a video after hard driving. fully warmed up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jq0CXNtLJE&feature=channel&list=UL
That warm video sounds normal. The actuator performed properly. The tiny ball bearing sound is actually the ball bearing in your PCV valve going crazy. I found that out when I replaced mine with an aftermarket that has a larger inlet. Need to put an OE back in, too noisy.
All I know is that this engine uses VVT.
Here is a video after hard driving. fully warmed up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jq0CXNtLJE&feature=channel&list=UL
That warm video sounds normal. The actuator performed properly. The tiny ball bearing sound is actually the ball bearing in your PCV valve going crazy. I found that out when I replaced mine with an aftermarket that has a larger inlet. Need to put an OE back in, too noisy.
Do you know the general vicinity of where the actuator could be? The car for most of its life when my grandfather had it used Castrol 15w40 Semi-synthetic. I only put synthetics in my cars so ofcourse I switched. M1 only sells 15w50 here. Castrol Edge (black bottle) has 5w50 formulated for classic vehicles. and thinner oils.
Do you think the PCV valve is going bad? I just replaced it but it is kinda noisy.
Another thing I should mention is that when the engine is running and I remove the oil cap and place my hand over the filler hole for a few seconds my hand gets covered in oil. My friend's car also does this and my OTHER friends car also does this.
Another thing I should mention is that when the engine is running and I remove the oil cap and place my hand over the filler hole for a few seconds my hand gets covered in oil. My friend's car also does this and my OTHER friends car also does this.
Clarification - I believe they call it a DVVT (The D for DAIHATSU). Its a clone of Toyotas vvt design.
Info is hard to find for your engine, here is a picture:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/32962953@N08/5455787582/in/photostream/
The actuator is inside the large cylinder at the top. Not accessible without opening it up. Not an easy job to replace. Would try thinner oil, cleaning the OCV screen or a cleaner additive in the oil before attempting to work on it. More about that below.
The oil control valve regulates oil pressure to the actuator. It has a filter screen in front of it to protect the actuator from debris. The screen and OCV will be under the actuator on the head If I had an engine diagram I would know exactly. A clogged OCV screen/filter can cause a problem with oil pressure
at the actuator so its a good candidate for cleaning.
As far as the PCV valve being bad. No, not bad, just an aftermarket that is different that the original. I ran into that too. Get one from the dealer.
I'm still not clear when you made the switch to M1. Is this a recent move? If so the actuator may clean itself up with the M1.
The only other info I found says the oil spec for that engine is 5w30. Whats on the filler cap? I understand it may be different over there, but still think you should make a switch to a 5w30 just to test, wont hurt anything.
Info is hard to find for your engine, here is a picture:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/32962953@N08/5455787582/in/photostream/
The actuator is inside the large cylinder at the top. Not accessible without opening it up. Not an easy job to replace. Would try thinner oil, cleaning the OCV screen or a cleaner additive in the oil before attempting to work on it. More about that below.
The oil control valve regulates oil pressure to the actuator. It has a filter screen in front of it to protect the actuator from debris. The screen and OCV will be under the actuator on the head If I had an engine diagram I would know exactly. A clogged OCV screen/filter can cause a problem with oil pressure
at the actuator so its a good candidate for cleaning.
As far as the PCV valve being bad. No, not bad, just an aftermarket that is different that the original. I ran into that too. Get one from the dealer.
I'm still not clear when you made the switch to M1. Is this a recent move? If so the actuator may clean itself up with the M1.
The only other info I found says the oil spec for that engine is 5w30. Whats on the filler cap? I understand it may be different over there, but still think you should make a switch to a 5w30 just to test, wont hurt anything.
The 'Factory fill' according to the owners manual is 10w30 and I ran castrol edge syntech 10w30 and the noise was still there. I switched to M1 because I ONLY use synthetics and the extreame temps here make it more valid to use it. It is a recent move, This is my first change with M1 before that the car had castrol syntech 10w30 and before that it also had syntech 10w30, when my grandfather had it he used castrol syntech blend 15w40 and sometimes vavoline dino oil. I put a cleaning additive the second and third time I changed the oil in the crankcase.
Ok..The M1 will do some cleaning in a few thousand miles. Would be enough time for the problem to subside if its just sticking or a clogged screen. Give it some time, it if doesn't get better start investigating actuator replacement with a mechanic. See what they say about it.
Also, what oil filter are you using?
Also, what oil filter are you using?
Right now? Toyota denso.
Here is a VERY detailed technical sheet about the k3-ve engine and its different components (including DVVT)
http://www.scribd.com/doc/80294539/d55b-2-e
Here is a VERY detailed technical sheet about the k3-ve engine and its different components (including DVVT)
http://www.scribd.com/doc/80294539/d55b-2-e
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Thanks, helps a lot. Another clarification - "Dynamic Variable Valve Timing" is the correct name for DVVT per manual. Same design as VVT.
Pages 59-63. They call it a "controller".
Page 66-68 Notice "At the start of the engine when the housing rotates, the vane is pushed toward the delayed injection side and locked with a pin. After the engine has started, the lock pin is released automatically by hydraulic pressure" Translation: Until the oil pressure increases enough to release the controller pin, it will tick tick tick. A broken or failed pin is the primary controller failure.
77-78. Good diagram and description (above) of dvvt
89. Location of the dvvt filter and OCV
Pages 59-63. They call it a "controller".
Page 66-68 Notice "At the start of the engine when the housing rotates, the vane is pushed toward the delayed injection side and locked with a pin. After the engine has started, the lock pin is released automatically by hydraulic pressure" Translation: Until the oil pressure increases enough to release the controller pin, it will tick tick tick. A broken or failed pin is the primary controller failure.
77-78. Good diagram and description (above) of dvvt
89. Location of the dvvt filter and OCV
Maybe somebody can tell us if the Toyota Denso filter you are using is foam media and if there have been any experiences with dry starts, clogging, etc with this filter. M1 15w50 passing through a restrictive foam filter could be an issue on a cold start, but I'm just speculating.
I was using another filter aswell. Although I can't remember the name and I think I used a Wix filter aswell, the noise was still there.
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