How much would a tune for higher octane cost?

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I'm not likely to do it, but if I brought the car to a local mechanic or someone that knows specifically about Subarus (it's a 2012 2.0i) how much would it likely cost to get it changed to handle 89 or 91 octane?

Again, not going to do it. I just like to know things.
 
If you blow a headgasket and possibly warp/crack a head,you can get it shaved down and that will increase compression.Given enough miles,with a Subaru you will eventually need a head gasket job.And that job isnt cheap.
 
Originally Posted By: naphthoylindole
I'm not likely to do it, but if I brought the car to a local mechanic or someone that knows specifically about Subarus (it's a 2012 2.0i) how much would it likely cost to get it changed to handle 89 or 91 octane?

Again, not going to do it. I just like to know things.


Not worth it. You are looking at about 400 bucks easy and then if you need a reflash at dealer they will put it back to stock.
 
Somewhere between $300 (iffy, sketchy, scary) to $750 plus Cobb's Accessport if you chose to go that route, so another $650.

Please don't tune your N/A Subie. Sell it and buy a WRX if you're unhappy.
 
If you take it to one of the good performance shops in the metro like Fullblown, MAP, or DB performance it will run 150 to have your ecu socketed and chrome installed, then about 100 an hr for a dyno tune. I would say for $300 it can be done, but I wouldn't bother unless you do some additional modifications.
 
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Originally Posted By: ls1mike
Originally Posted By: naphthoylindole
I'm not likely to do it, but if I brought the car to a local mechanic or someone that knows specifically about Subarus (it's a 2012 2.0i) how much would it likely cost to get it changed to handle 89 or 91 octane?

Again, not going to do it. I just like to know things.


Not worth it. You are looking at about 400 bucks easy and then if you need a reflash at dealer they will put it back to stock.


True....and even worse they may VOID his warranty. GM, for example, instructs dealers to verify programming and to void any warranty (power train part only) if the ECM/PCM has been aftermarket reflashed. I would think other automakers are doing the same.
 
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My question is... Why? To get more power out of it? You WANT to pay more for premium fuel?
 
No he wants one to lower the octane to save a few cents a gallon (at least that is how I understand it). I bet it is a wash. I know with the truck when towing I spend the same amount in cash on fuel over the same distance no matter what octane I run.
 
No.

Most PCM's can only reduce timing as indicated by knock sensors.

But many flex fuel vehicles CAN adjust timing upwards for alcohol content. But this is extremely platform specific.
 
Sounds like the OP wants to lock out low octane usage. Or to limit how far back timing can be pulled (or whatever might be in vogue today for dealing with ping--not sure if VVT motors have some other tricks up their sleeves). Not sure why, other than "because I can"?
 
A tune , chip, or programmer is about $3-400, sometimes more for rare birds.

As a side note, I saw a tech from a major chip Mfr on a car show.
He said that at about 9/1 compression, 87 is all you need. Very little gains past that - not worth it. 10/1 was mid grade - 89 or so - same thing - not worth tuning for 92. Over 10/1 was worth a high octane tune.
With variable cam timing and valve lifts, there is lots of variance, but this generally holds true.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
A tune , chip, or programmer is about $3-400, sometimes more for rare birds.

As a side note, I saw a tech from a major chip Mfr on a car show.
He said that at about 9/1 compression, 87 is all you need. Very little gains past that - not worth it. 10/1 was mid grade - 89 or so - same thing - not worth tuning for 92. Over 10/1 was worth a high octane tune.
With variable cam timing and valve lifts, there is lots of variance, but this generally holds true.


Then explain how the Mazda SkyActiv 2.0 4 cylinder engines with their high compression ratios (13:1) in the Mazda 3 and CX-5 only need 87 octane fuel.

Blanket statements don't cover the whole bed.

BC.
 
Some engines are programmed with aggressive timing tables that do have a bit of knock on 87. So running a higher octane in those engines nets better performance by reducing the instances of knock, and maintaining higher timing for longer.

On a NA car, a tune generally isn't needed unless there's some specific characteristic that one is looking to change. I got a tune on my old Buick to alter the transmission shifting at WOT, which had left me devoutly wishing for a downshift on many occasions. The tune was much more liberal with the downshifts, which was appreciated.
 
I had my car reprogrammed for 92. Had it adjusted for the Marauder MAF and better shifting at the same time. Cost me about $450 for the tune and tuner. Which, the latter is reusable, so not as bad of a deal. Ill need a retune when I do gears later, anyway, which is about $100.
 
My tuner has tunes for 87,89 and 91 octane. If I want to get real brave I can advance the timing even more than that but unless I've got 100 octane in the tank it's a bad idea.
Op. I suggest either getting it dyno tuned at a speed shop or check out the Subaru forums and see who does remote tuning.
If you are under warantee forget the tuning idea. It will void your warantee.
As far as adjusting timing is concerned I saw a kid at the track put 103 octane(or what he thought was 103 octane) and he advanced the timing as far as the tuner would go. He sets up in the waterbox and starts warming the tires. I could hear the ping over the screeching of the tires then I heard pop and bang,and his engine started grinding,oil pouring everywhere.
He broke a connecting rod because the fuel wasn't 103 octane and because the plug was sparking before it was supposed to the combustion was pushing down while the piston was still going up.
So be sure whoever is doing the tuning is reputable. Because I guarantee if your motor blows they won't be coughing up any cash.
 
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
A tune , chip, or programmer is about $3-400, sometimes more for rare birds.

As a side note, I saw a tech from a major chip Mfr on a car show.
He said that at about 9/1 compression, 87 is all you need. Very little gains past that - not worth it. 10/1 was mid grade - 89 or so - same thing - not worth tuning for 92. Over 10/1 was worth a high octane tune.
With variable cam timing and valve lifts, there is lots of variance, but this generally holds true.


Then explain how the Mazda SkyActiv 2.0 4 cylinder engines with their high compression ratios (13:1) in the Mazda 3 and CX-5 only need 87 octane fuel.

Blanket statements don't cover the whole bed.

BC.


What blanket statements? I specifically mentioned the new methods/technologys.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
As far as adjusting timing is concerned I saw a kid at the track put 103 octane(or what he thought was 103 octane) and he advanced the timing as far as the tuner would go. He sets up in the waterbox and starts warming the tires. I could hear the ping over the screeching of the tires then I heard pop and bang,and his engine started grinding,oil pouring everywhere.
He broke a connecting rod because the fuel wasn't 103 octane and because the plug was sparking before it was supposed to the combustion was pushing down while the piston was still going up.
So be sure whoever is doing the tuning is reputable. Because I guarantee if your motor blows they won't be coughing up any cash.


^^^What kind of car was this?
 
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