How much should a rear brake and rotor job be?

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c4829794f3f3ddcceb5941e33ecf2286.jpg


I see something jagged in two of the pics including where the drip is from and I am not sure what that is.

We now do know that it is this corner.

Now I have more information, In dealing with potential workmen. One seems to suggest that the shop will charge "way more" if they feel they do a caliper (?,) pad and rotor. (HerrStig I had a shop "skim a rotor" once. Cheapest way out?)

So.. now I must be careful in what I agree to. IDEALLY both backs would be done at once. But, as OVERKILL said, this may be doomed to a beater... functional brakes are the goal here..
 
I'm not familiar with that vehicle, but that second to last photo seems to show a dry brake line and a dry bleeder. Looks to me like a bad caliper.
 
I stand corrected, it has rear discs. Your caliper or caliper accessories are leaking. Stop driving already! You'll suck air into the ABS unit and wreck that, and or just wreck this car.
 
I see a crack in those pictures.

I don't have a Ford to compare it to so I don't know if it's in a cosmetic area (splash shield) or a structural area, but still... I would guess that the brake/hub area has taken some physical damage. If so that could be the cause of the leak.
 
This is the passenger side rear, right? Didn't you just replace the rim and tire on the passenger side rear? Did you hit somethiing that damaged the rim? I'm thinking this brake damage is related to that incident...
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Have you tried pouring some "restore" or anything else in the brake fluid reservoir? It seemed to not help with your Blazer ... but you still did!


I put Restore! in the Blazer? I know I made a thread about it, (Restore!,) but im not sure I put it in there.

That truck "needs a new spider" and some other stuff..
 
You know how ATF has friction modifiers? You need DOT 3 brake fluid with friction modifiers, as there isn't enough friction at that wheel right now. You can't just buy it off the shelf, you have to ask, it's behind the counter, next to the muffler bearings and metric crescent wrenches. You'll know the correct stuff when it feels like gojo hand soap "with pumice" between your fingers.
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J/K, I hope this gets fixed before the truck moves another foot. May be wise, since NJ stopped doing safety inspections a couple years ago, to have the mechanic look over all your brake hydraulics for issues. You'll recall doing front hoses a month back and I hate to imagine what else is lurking.
 
Originally Posted By: exranger06
Did you hit somethiing that damaged the rim? I'm thinking this brake damage is related to that incident...

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Come on Joseph, tell the whole story already.
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Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
We talking about it right now.

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Is the alignment that far off or is she making a turn?
 
Why are there wires hanging down by the rear diff???

And yes, let's hear the rest of the story here regarding that back wheel.

Also, the rotor face in those pics is rusty, which indicates that this caliper was probably already seized. So it needed the caliper anyways.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Also, the rotor face in those pics is rusty, which indicates that this caliper was probably already seized. So it needed the caliper anyways.


I don't see the rotor. I think you are looking at the dust shield.
 
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
c4829794f3f3ddcceb5941e33ecf2286.jpg


I see something jagged in two of the pics including where the drip is from and I am not sure what that is.

We now do know that it is this corner.

Now I have more information, In dealing with potential workmen. One seems to suggest that the shop will charge "way more" if they feel they do a caliper (?,) pad and rotor. (HerrStig I had a shop "skim a rotor" once. Cheapest way out?)

So.. now I must be careful in what I agree to. IDEALLY both backs would be done at once. But, as OVERKILL said, this may be doomed to a beater... functional brakes are the goal here..
There's a mininum thickness beyond a rotor, they say, can't be skimmed, those who are most interested in selling youa new one most often bring that up Rare to find a well set up shop without a "brake lath", though. I would bet a car like yours has meaty enough rotors to handle one careful skim.
 
Originally Posted By: Warstud
The OP asked. "How much should a rear brake and rotor job be? And we have 74 replies so far.


$200 do it yourself

$300 brake shop.
 
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