how long should it take to lose these marks

[Lubener]

No way to tell. Depends on your linings and braking efforts.Rotors almost always wear at a faster rate than the linings. It will not be long before they are smooth. I would want that type of finish when new linings are installed not mirror smooth.

If your pedal feels spongy, then you have air in the system.

 

[72te27]

I've had Wagner TQ's that simply took longer to bed in and transfer pad material to the disc. Eventually they bit very well and developed a good pedal feel.

 

[howie2092]

Originally Posted By: 72te27
I've had Wagner TQ's that simply took longer to bed in and transfer pad material to the disc. Eventually they bit very well and developed a good pedal feel.


+1 the thermoquiets on my previous '03 F150 took a few weeks to bed in. At first they had no 'bite' but after a few weeks they were perfect. Good pedal feel and strong braking.

FWIW my most recent set of ceramics on my Durango did not bed in properly - I had to remove the rotors and sand the friction surfaces with a DA sander with 120 grit. Plus I took extra care to clean and grease the slides and pins. Once that was done, they were able to bed in properly. After a few days, my brakes became absolutely amazing. No more squeaks and squeals. The hard ceramic pads need a bit of 'tooth' in the rotors, otherwise they take forever to bed in and work properly. This is just my observation and experience, YMMV.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Vikas

These are NOT e-cote rotors that Critic referenced. Entire brake job including labor was under $130!


I think you misunderstood - I said that the rotors you used appear to be the "economy" line rotors. The rotors in your picture appear to be unpainted and will rust very quickly unless you paint them now.

I used "premium" rotors in the brake job that I did (and posted pictures) of.

 

[KrisZ]

My experience is similar to Critic's. It takes about 1000 miles for the machine marks to be gone. 600-700 miles if I bed in the brakes right after installation.

 

[Vikas]

Nothing premium here!
Code:


Wagner thermoquiet $25 shipped (no rebate though)

2 Front rotors $55 shipped

Labor $50 OTD (+$10 tip)

=====================================

The Whole Thing $140

In the retrospect, I am thinking the rear drums were not adjusted. Both the rear wheels were turning rather freely in the air. I asked the guy to adjust and he tried but gave up. Having nothing to lose, I got quite aggressive and jammed the brakes while going in reverse. That must have got the self-adjuster lever moving again and got my pedal back. This is probably more of a factor in brakes becoming better than the brake bed in procedure in itself.

RE: Critic
Painting of the rotors does not last, certainly not in New England. If you want to have that surface preserved, you really want the premium "e"-coated discs. Each such rotor would have probably cost me more than the entire brake job!

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: Vikas

Painting of the rotors does not last, certainly not in New England. If you want to have that surface preserved, you really want the premium "e"-coated discs. Each such rotor would have probably cost me more than the entire brake job!


It does, it just depends on the paint you use and how you prep it. I did some 5 years ago and its hanging in there.

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Vikas

Painting of the rotors does not last, certainly not in New England. If you want to have that surface preserved, you really want the premium "e"-coated discs. Each such rotor would have probably cost me more than the entire brake job!


It does, it just depends on the paint you use and how you prep it. I did some 5 years ago and its hanging in there.


I find the Rustoleum paint works pretty well, especially when it's brushed on.

 

[turtlevette]

The last rotors I got for the vette were zinc washed. It protects inside the vanes where you get a lot of rust inhibiting heat transfer.

 

[kschachn]

...

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: turtlevette
The last rotors I got for the vette were zinc washed. It protects inside the vanes where you get a lot of rust inhibiting heat transfer.


Where I live, we sometimes have more salt on the road then snow. My Mazda 3 came in from the factory with nice zinc coated rotors, including the vanes. When it came time to change them five years later, the vanes were badly corroded.
I put in the cheapest, Chinese made rotors I could get and painted the hats only. They are about five years old now and look pretty much identical to the OEM ones that were coated. Vanes are rusted of course, just like the OEM ones were.

So to me, it makes no difference, as in my experience, every single rotor I dealt with, factory coated or not had badly rusted vanes because of the salt and heat cycles. The only reason I paint the hats is for cosmetics.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: howie2092
at LEAST 100 miles before the rotors have the 'bite' and appearance you expect. 2X - 4X longer if they are on the rear. Ceramic pads take much longer to bed in than organic or semi-metallic, in my experience.

You could do a few moderately aggressive stops to bed them in faster... or just drive normally for a few weeks.

If the crosshatch marks are the same after a few weeks, then your calipers are not applying any pressure to the pads.
I quit using "Ceramic" because of lack of bite and am now very happy with EBC Ultimax. Pads which last forever and give one a bad feeling every time one hits the pedal are not for me.

 

[turtlevette]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
The last rotors I got for the vette were zinc washed. It protects inside the vanes where you get a lot of rust inhibiting heat transfer.


Where I live, we sometimes have more salt on the road than snow



The streets here get white with salt. Maybe the cad coated?

 

[MolaKule]

Same here.

But in my case, it seems the rotors wear down to replacement thickness before much scale builds up on the inside of the rotors.

 

[MolaKule]

Originally Posted By: Lubener
No way to tell. Depends on your linings and braking efforts.Rotors almost always wear at a faster rate than the linings. It will not be long before they are smooth. I would want that type of finish when new linings are installed [and] not mirror smooth.

If your pedal feels spongy, then you have air in the system.

 

[KrisZ]

Here is how my rear discs look like that were installed about four years ago and painted with caliper paint.



Just for giggles I took a picture of my SILs 2011 Mazda 3 rear discs that are original and coated from the factory. They look a little better, but not by much.
That is why I never even think about turning rotors.

 

[Vikas]

Update:-

Probably about 100 miles since the last report. The rotors still have that finish but the brakes are working great.

 

[demarpaint]

I used ceramic pads and new Wagner rotors from AAP for a brake job on my 00 Century about a month ago. I cleaned the rotors with brake cleaner painted the hats and sprayed paint into the fins. I was a little more aggressive than I normally would be with my first few stops. It took about 100 or so miles for everything to feel what I consider good. I always suggest adjusting rear drum brakes as part of a front brake job, if I'm not replacing them. If the brakes are out of adjustment [mine usually are] the difference is night and day.

 

[B20z]

2003 Odyssey. New rear rotors/pads about 2wks ago, several hundred miles. Crosshatch is still slightly visible. Unpainted hats.

Front rotors/pads changed 1 year ago, 10kmi. These have an electrocoat on the hats which is starting to give a bit. Functionally good otherwise.

Heavy Honda vehicles tend to have severe brake issues (pulsation, fade, vagueness in the pedal) as many of you know. I've had no problems since moving to aftermarket and completely addressing the calipers/slides at every brake service.