How far can I go on MAX LIFE Syn and Mobil1 Filter

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OCB

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Car is a 1998 Acura Integra GSR in perfect mechanical condition. ARX at 100,000 miles and 3-4k changes with Havoline Dino and quality filters. About 124,0000 on the clock now.

Just filled her up with Valvoline Max Life syn 5w30 for the winter and a Mobil 1 filter. I bought the filter a year or two ago. It is not an EP filter.

Avg about 40 miles per day with a good amot of highway and some city driving.

Can I get 8000 miles out of this change?
 
It will take you about 10 months to put that many miles on it? I would probably go no longer than 6 months, so say 5000 miles. Corrosion can start to accelerate if you go too long.
 
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I've been going about 4k on Havoline Dino. I just doubled what I usualy pay for the oil and filter.
 
Its hard to say without a uoa.. I think you should be fine at 8k, but i wouldn't push it over that.
 
Depends on how clean your engine is. High mileage synthetic is good -- but it's still mostly Group III with a stronger add-pack. I would remove it at 6K myself. I don't let my Mobil-1 EP go beyond 8K personally.
 
What an ironic statement that is.
hornets_nest.gif
 
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It will take you about 10 months to put that many miles on it? I would probably go no longer than 6 months, so say 5000 miles. Corrosion can start to accelerate if you go too long.


I thought corrosion was mainly a problem of short trips. He is driving 40 miles a day and that should keep the corrosive agents at bay in his oil. I would think he can go one year OCIs but probably a good idea to UOA at 6 months or so.

Of course I am a bit daring myself. I have Redline in the Aerostar and it has been 13 months and nearly 6000 miles and no UOA yet. I plan to go to 7000 miles. Of course it took 4.5 quarts makeup oil. Plan to do a UOA at the end and will post it here.
 
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Agreed, 6 mo is just a guess. I have found in my truck with similar conditions that 6 months is about as far as I would push it.
 
I alos put in a couple of 100 mile + trips a couple of times per month.

I guess I'm a bit confused. I'm supposed to be able to go 5000 miles with Mobil Clean. I step up to Max Life syn and only get 1 or 2 more thousand miles out of it.

I guess as you say an oil test would be best.

Really I just don't want to have to go under the hood this winter. So maybe given the advice here I'll pull it in about 6 months. Around April or May or maybe 6500 miles.
 
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I alos put in a couple of 100 mile + trips a couple of times per month.

I guess I'm a bit confused. I'm supposed to be able to go 5000 miles with Mobil Clean. I step up to Max Life syn and only get 1 or 2 more thousand miles out of it.

I guess as you say an oil test would be best.

Really I just don't want to have to go under the hood this winter. So maybe given the advice here I'll pull it in about 6 months. Around April or May or maybe 6500 miles.




Those Driver Clean 5000 are thrown-out numbers. Only a UOA tells you where you're at in protection/oil life.

Some folks like clear dipsticks for an extended period -- while others don't care. Some folks sell their vehcile prematurely - some are first & last owners.

So you are going to get a variety of answers -- only because you failed to mention how important a clear dipstick/engine is & how long you plan on keeping your vehicle.

For instance: I'm a first & last owner of my vehicles & use synthetics for shorter-than-normal OCIs. If I sold the vehicle every five years/prematurely, I would go by my GM OLM for oil changes and only use dino oils that are cheap & SM/GF4.... like Super Tech, Citgo, Shell... etc.
 
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I have a UOA with 6500 miles of 50/50 driving in a mitsubishi posted from about a year and a half ago. I believe it was suggested I go to 7500. Good oil. Here it is.
First the numbers then some comments
Miles on unit 22,537/miles on oil 6,494
This sample/Universal averages

ALUMINUM------ 3/6
CHROMIUM------ 0/1
IRON---------- 4/12
COPPER-------- 2/7
LEAD---------- 2/4
TIN----------- 0/3
MOLYBDENUM---- 233/68
NICKEL-------- 0/0
MANGANESE----- 0/0
SILVER-------- 0/0
TITANIUM------ 0/0
POTASSIUM----- 2/1
BORON--------- 3/27
SILICON------- 8/11
SODIUM-------- 2/22
CALCIUM------- 2591/1956
MAGNESIUM----- 9/185
PHOSPHORUS---- 663/767
ZINC---------- 859/935
BARIUM-------- 0/0
Insolubles .3 should be Fuel FP 380 should be > 365
Sus vis 64.3 Converts to 11.5 cSt @100°c
TBN was 2.7

Blackstone Comments: Universal averages show typical wear metals for an oil from this type of engine after about 7,840 miles run on the oil. Your oil was in use 6,494 miles, and we found all wear below average levels and in the correct balance to show normal mechanical parts inside. The TBN was 2.7 (active additive left) - 1.0 is low. Air (see silicon) and oil (see insolubles) filtration appear to be normal. This engine oil had no fuel, moisture or anti-freeze in it. The viscosity measured just a bit high for a 5W/30 oil. You could try 7,500-8,000 miles for next oil change and sample.

My Comments: a little longer than 5 months I changed before a 1500 mile journey to be safe. This oil was in brutal service 50/50 city highway if I had to guesse but a better description would be through a hot summer as a realtors car. My wife will get in front of a house and the phome will ring and she will idle.. and idle and idle with the AC on sometimes. Some weeks it would do nothing but city service.. several starts and stops a day showing homes and cruising through new construction sites. Our highway trips are usually 80-90 mph and this was all in south Texas and the texas hill country heat was at or near 100 at times. Average highs were always in the 90's for this interval. Car was exposed to The beach and sea air with some sand driving as well but not often.
Filteration: The oil filter was a Supertech 3950 and the air filter is factory.
 
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I had one of those rockets. That VTEC engine thrives on good clean light weight oil; I used 5w30 M1 with no problems. I ran the p*ss out of that little motor with regular runs to the 8k redline and changed the oil at 5k intervals. Absolutely no problems up till 175k when the car was t-boned and totaled. Until that time the engine ran as good as new.
 
I have noticed that the engine seems to rev a bit more freely. I don't think its my imagination. I have been using Havoline 10/30 for the summer months and just switched it to the syn 5/30. My butt dyno likes it so far.


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I had one of those rockets. That VTEC engine thrives on good clean light weight oil; I used 5w30 M1 with no problems. I ran the p*ss out of that little motor with regular runs to the 8k redline and changed the oil at 5k intervals. Absolutely no problems up till 175k when the car was t-boned and totaled. Until that time the engine ran as good as new.


 
I have a stash of 10w30 Maxlife Synthetic. Haven't used it yet, but as soon as I drain the Redline from the Aerostar, I will run the Maxlife on one year OCIs with Maxlife Synthetic. I probably won't bother with UOAs on that though.
 
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