How bad is P0538 code?

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

A few things here, in replying to this thread.

First thing is, if it really is that easy (and the sensor is that locateable) then all my observations about how hard it would be to get to are not applicable and this is welcome information. One of the things that makes this board great.

Secondly, the conversation about "needing" AC or it being a "requirement" and that whole conversation are way off base. I get it, some posters are all about making hard on SCSM and otherwise impactful, powerful statements, in general and all the time, proper contrarians and to challenge the person making the post with quick quips, etc (and some that's their entire posting style, at least selectively) and that's fine. (OR liking posts critical of said poster. Hey. Go right ahead.) But. About air conditioning... again, the post is missed, if you simply prefer a cooler cabin, want AC as a great way to cool off on a hot day, it is as simple if you want AC in your car, it's that simple in a car you drive and use, can't predict the heat etc.. you do not need a "medical reason" to have AC in a car that you desire and drive. Now. Autism spectrum folks generally have a low heat tolerance and don't like the heat anyways... and Florida and other areas you could make the case that it is "required".. I wonder how far back in history you'd gave to go back to argue from when AC wasn't invented yet and humans just dealt with heat etc... well again, the car has AC and this poster likes AC. Other people don't care if the AC works or not and that's fine, I suppose, but it's not me. I propose that that angle was off base and simply one of the aspects of sometimes talking about something on BITOG. But not really accurate. You want AC, you have AC available. That's about it.

Thirdly, now there is an AC line somewhere with a leak in it because the R134a doesn't stay in. That might (now) be the worst part, unless the AC line can be easily identified and replaced. Thankfully the compressor works and ideally you'd pull a vacuum upon reinstall.

Let me go pop out the glove box and see what I see. I'll go do that right now.

And, upon reconsideration, when it comes tike to DIFY to replace the line.. that's when I have to check the shop's honesty. If I could somehow find the leak myself before it goes in. (I already know patch products don't work.) That would keep them honest because usually, with AC work, they kind of tell you you should replace everything and I already know the compressor works as I've gotten it cold with it manually engaged and R134a in the system before it leaks out .

So let's see if anything seen here is the piece ..
No, I've never looked or even thought to look here before..

I don't see it ??

 

[Astro14]

Often, it’s the O-rings in AC systems that start to leak.

The lines themselves are pretty durable. The next time it gets recharged, make sure that there is a UV dye in the gas, and then it’ll be pretty easy to tell where the leak is.

O-rings aren’t hard to change, but you need to have a shop do this because you need to pull a hard vacuum after you change the O-ring. Air will have gotten into the system, along with some moisture. You can not just fill it up with $20 cans from AutoZone afterwards or you’re gonna be circulating both air and moisture.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

There is a trick to drop the dash on the 4th generation Taurus that makes it significantly easier to do.

Often, it’s the O-rings in AC systems that start to leak.

The lines themselves are pretty durable. The next time it gets recharged, make sure that there is a UV dye in the gas, and then it’ll be pretty easy to tell where the leak is.

O-rings aren’t hard to change, but you need to have a shop do this because you need to pull a hard vacuum after you change the O-ring. Air will have gotten into the system, along with some moisture. You can not just fill it up with $20 cans from AutoZone afterwards or you’re gonna be circulating both air and moisture.

Pulling it under a vacuum is also a good way to make sure you have the leaks mostly taken care of. If it can hold a vacuum, it's sealed tight!

Just had the AC fixed on my Grand Marquis. Turns out it was leaking out of the Schrader valve and cap. Had no issues holding a vacuum. Good to go! Ice cold AC.

But it's 23 years old, so I'm sure something else will fail soon enough.

 

[Donald]

Repairs can be different if this is considered a true BITOG beater car.

Is the vehicle driven in the rust belt? 2004 vehicle could have a rusty frame if driven in the rust belt.

The last major repair you do on a car before selling it is one you regret. Should have sold it before I paid for that repair.

 

[mk378]

That is it in your pictures, the white thing with the wires going down. Easily replaced by working through the glove compartment opening.

Remove everything stored in the glove compartment then push in on the top back to release it so it continues to move past the normal open stop. If that does not work you may need to unscrew the hinges at the bottom.

 

[michaelluscher]

Unplug it, rotate probably a 1/4 turn, pull out
R&R
I already posted the part number

Count yourself very fortunate this isn't a CD3 car that requires dash removal or dash cutting to get the EVAP temp sensor out

 

[JHZR2]

Well, that's more what I thought lol. I honestly thought P0538 was a "AC system outside of preset values" code (system pressures?) and spent a lot of time measuring that all the levels were correct.. when I saw the compressor not coming on when commanded on, I did the paperclip test, went from there, and then when I did some in-depth diving on the ONE YouTube video I saw and also other info (it's a "thermistor" and it's pretty much right in the middle of the entire dashboard like a heater core just harder) I said.. Oh yeah, this car is getting sold if I ever get it.

I don't handle the heat well.

I did see one video mention "take the windshield off, get to sensor with long nose pliers and minimal removal, replace, done" - but then you're re-sealing a windshield and though I've never had a problem the couple of times I've had to get a new windshield.. apparently not everyone is as good as re-sealing. My mechanic has a yellow A4 and his windshield now leaks water. My guess is that whoever put it on didn't do so very well so.. that means I'd avoid them......

*This is is why I might sell the car if the repair bill is too high* it's the principal of not having AC. Gotta wonder. Ford apparently puts it right up against the firewall in the vent in perhaps the hardest to reach location. No attempt to make it accessible.. question could be asked if that is even possible. Still not 100% sure where it is. So this may be a unique horrendous Ford design and it may not....


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@ripcord How's that work?

@michaelluscher Oh it has one. 2004

View attachment 166104

Whose car is this? Yours? Your mother’s? A lender?

If it’s not yours why mess with it? Are you being paid?

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

It's out. VERY easy to remove.

This is encouraging. Took about one full minute. Wow.

I believe I saw 26.3 to 26.4 kOhms resistance on my multimeter.. Hope it wouldn't be too much laughed at if I asked if perhaps it could be sprayed off and put back in like a MAF.

I'll check @michaelluscher part number information now and go from there.

Well, obviously spraying it off didnt do anything. But that's one easy thing checked off before it goes to the shop to have the leak found and fixed (since they know how to find and replace leaking component and I don't.)

 

[SHOZ]

On my Gen Coupe after all is cooled down it will bounce off this sensor to disengage the clutch. Cycles at 36-40F coming out the vents.

 

[OVERKILL]

Whose car is this? Yours? Your mother’s? A lender?

If it’s not yours why mess with it? Are you being paid?

I think it's his mom's.

The only car in his sig that's actually his is the one that was on engine #3, and, despite the known fragility and questionable health of this unit, was flogged mercilessly and driven at 90+ mph until it "surprisingly" blew up, leaving him to now fix-to-death his mom's car in order to subdue his demons.

Luckily, he spent enough on oil changes every week and filter changes every other day that, along with wizards and coolant changes, it appears he now is in the awkward position of being unable to afford to put another engine in it.

I am sympathetic to his condition and the struggles he undertakes to control it, but there needs to be some responsibility taken when things predictably go sideways from behaviour that has been highlighted as leading to these sorts mechanical catastrophes. These "incidences" are not happening in isolation, and they really, as long as somebody isn't in a coma, can be seen coming from a mile away. When you drive a tire to the cords, you should not be surprised by its failure. One example of many in this epic and perpetual train wreck.

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

I think it's his mom's.

The only car in his sig that's actually his is the one that was on engine #3, and, despite the known fragility and questionable health of this unit, was flogged mercilessly and driven at 90+ mph until it "surprisingly" blew up, leaving him to now fix-to-death his mom's car in order to subdue his demons.

Luckily, he spent enough on oil changes every week and filter changes every other day that, along with wizards and coolant changes, it appears he now is in the awkward position of being unable to afford to put another engine in it.

I am sympathetic to his condition and the struggles he undertakes to control it, but there needs to be some responsibility taken when things predictably go sideways from behaviour that has been highlighted as leading to these sorts mechanical catastrophes. These "incidences" are not happening in isolation, and they really, as long as somebody isn't in a coma, can be seen coming from a mile away. When you drive a tire to the cords, you should not be surprised by its failure. One example of many in this epic and perpetual train wreck.

Well. Keeping the thread about P0538 and not going to (fully) turn this thread into the (3rd in a week or so) attempt to make genuine car topics a referendum on a poster.. Peak Backwards BITOG... I think this post was made from a genuine place, not a *zing* and for what it's worth, I appreciate that.

Let me just say this.... The public postings you see here from certain someone or someone's. Either MAY BE or ARE (details of private conversations are private so. Moving on) very, very DIFFERENT from what is posted here from the public eye. There is significant progress being made.. and to discuss particulars is, again, 1. Peak Backwards BITOG (term coined?) and 2. Counterproductive/Mark Twain's "Can't hit the broadside of a barn." No point. Dumb. So just please rest assured.. things are going good.

A Thermistor costs I believe $25. My mechanics that do the DIFY work (Taurus: They changed the water pump, put in G-05. They changed the fuel pump, lifetime warranty on that CarQuest brand part. They do tires and they will find the AC leak. I'll just change the Thermistor. I probably even made the AC leak but that's OK I'll pay for the repair. Chain did the ball joints and even if it was a possible rip job at ~$600 as per chain in Indiana, same name as a Japanese Anime "Big O!".... point: It got done and the car hasn't pooped or popped a tire since. There was also some excellent body work d on as them felt a back unfortunate incident and a car looks pretty good. So that, to Ms, is one more reason as to why... You accept what is, let go of what was, and have faith in what will be. Not live in the past. But that's just me.) --- (Mach 5: they are doing the work on that too. And I really don't care about that engine because honestly it had a pitted and screwed up #4 cylinder anyway that needed a re-sleeve and this time I've got the way out, that car will begin my career before we see if a BITOGer wants a RUNNING car down the road. Maybe even the fellow in Texas. I have to use it first.)

And, on that note.. The opportunity that's ahead of me and known behind closed doors is so good that paying for all this stuff won't be a problem. Now we already know that there's one poster here in the public realm that's flustered and can't believe it and this and that and that's totally fine because their journey is different than mine. So I'll end the post with this... If there is to be a post that is to have a referendum on a poster then I would submit that this is not the thread for it and again this is about the third thread where such actionHas been made to make the thread less about the car issue that has been presented and more about the poster that made it. So I will conclude that I'll probably buy the new thermistor and replace the thermistor and then make arrangements with the shop to find the leak so they can vacuum and refill the system. They have to vacuum and refill my other car anyway because I actually never got it back in my refilled from when I replaced the old ring myself when I was in Florida and have had cold AC and probably running moisture in the system for about a year now. Well that ends this summer.

And yeah, being smarter with money. Got it. Again. What is said in public differs, sometimes, from in private. "Pay your bills! Tighten your budget! And clean your room!" Think I don't know all this stuff? "The board is set. The pieces are moving." All is fine.

Now, about P0538...

So things are looking up and again I see the thread made by the poster and I think it came from a genuine place and I appreciate that and I accept that and I respect that and I respond to that in earnest and I'm not trying to sound snarky or anything so I hope that that actually goes somewhere good.

Now good night everyone I've got an interview today. And all indications point to that I got this.

It's a good looking car and I honestly thought the dash would have to come apart (or windshield in your "shortcut, half measure" repair) to fix it. Now I just hope that the leak I probably created isn't in the evaporator which actually is in the dashboard I hope it's in a line and somewhere easy to get to. In any case we have a road map to getting it fixed right and it could be a simple efficiator valve although it's a largely because it loses the R134a in about 10 minutes. So fear not.. The shop will get ahold of it maybe even while it's still hot.

That's the update and sorry for the off topic. I think I addressed it without a de-rail.

hopefully for the visual learners/visuals. Not sure I see any fault with what is pictured. Now Goodnight y'all.

 

[JHZR2]

.

That's the update and sorry for the off topic. I think I addressed it without a de-rail.

Here’s another stream of consciousness that doesn’t actually say anything. the question asked was quite simple, and you avoided it like a politician.

I think it's his mom's.

The only car in his sig that's actually his is the one that was on engine #3, and, despite the known fragility and questionable health of this unit, was flogged mercilessly and driven at 90+ mph until it "surprisingly" blew up, leaving him to now fix-to-death his mom's car in order to subdue his demons.

Luckily, he spent enough on oil changes every week and filter changes every other day that, along with wizards and coolant changes, it appears he now is in the awkward position of being unable to afford to put another engine in it.

I am sympathetic to his condition and the struggles he undertakes to control it, but there needs to be some responsibility taken when things predictably go sideways from behaviour that has been highlighted as leading to these sorts mechanical catastrophes. These "incidences" are not happening in isolation, and they really, as long as somebody isn't in a coma, can be seen coming from a mile away. When you drive a tire to the cords, you should not be surprised by its failure. One example of many in this epic and perpetual train wreck.

Sad but true. I thought that I had read in some other thread that there was a loaner which is why I asked. Because I wouldn’t put it past to be fixing another hoopty that doesn’t belong to OP. Though I certainly understand the desire for ac in a hot car in summer…

What peeves me is the claims that everything is great, yet then cars are getting flogged, destroyed, and the known train wreck isn’t prepared for in terms of savings to replace the existing hoopty with something better that will be more respected. And then thousands more will be wasted on the other hoopty per another thread:

While my engine may have had a non-oil related failure... there's a new engine lined up.. and I'd happily document the usage etc once that is sorted.

HPL of course.

Your Durango is phenomenal.

The waste and poor decisions are phenomenal.

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

Though I certainly understand the desire for ac in a hot car in summer…

That's what I'm saying!

@JHZR2 Not sure to say "If you say so" or "Opinions.. everybody's got one." But okay.

 

[JHZR2]

That's what I'm saying!

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Yet you post near worthless photos while not actually answering the question that was asked.

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

UPDATE: The new Thermistor is in.

I am thankful for the EASY placement and happy this wasn't the generation after... or a Fusion.

The new Thermistor is in. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/what-are-you-working-on-today.331303/page-265#post-6559995

And you know what they say about opinions,

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

Does seem tedious, taking dash out to get to the sensor.

Fords better idea to take care of DIYers. How did cars ever get along without sensors for over a hundred years?