Honda Accord I4 - OLM malfunction?

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Originally Posted By: sasilverbullet
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
You should expect it to drop by 10% after about 7500 miles of average driving.

Did you insert one too many zeros?


I've been averaging about 7500 miles and my OLM reads 30% on both my 14 Hondas.


You guys are mixing up who said what.

I said 7500 miles at 30%.
 
Originally Posted By: EdwardC
I believe his Accord is a K24 model. I don't think they made an accord sport with the V6, although, the J V6 with a real manual transmission would be a fun car! Might need a bit of wizardry to keep the handling good though.


"They" often say that the K24 Accord feels better balanced than the J35 version. Although I don't have a lot of drive time in Accords, I do have quite a bit of seat time in Acura TLs, and the suspension feels artificially boosted to try to control the additional weight. They have high physical limits of grip, but they don't feel "natural". Sort of how my 2001 Cadillac STS felt -- it had laudable levels of grip and performance for what it was, but there's only so much you can do when you have to compensate for a V-8 hanging out in front of the front wheels.

Our MDX and Ridgeline don't feel as artificial...because they're not set up for the sharp handling that V-6 Accords and Acura TLs are, and because there's much more mass there in general (both are 4,500+ pounds).
 
Originally Posted By: sasilverbullet
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
You should expect it to drop by 10% after about 7500 miles of average driving.

Did you insert one too many zeros?


I've been averaging about 7500 miles and my OLM reads 30% on both my 14 Hondas.


Yes - 750 miles for every 10%
 
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: EdwardC
I believe his Accord is a K24 model. I don't think they made an accord sport with the V6, although, the J V6 with a real manual transmission would be a fun car! Might need a bit of wizardry to keep the handling good though.


"They" often say that the K24 Accord feels better balanced than the J35 version. Although I don't have a lot of drive time in Accords, I do have quite a bit of seat time in Acura TLs, and the suspension feels artificially boosted to try to control the additional weight. They have high physical limits of grip, but they don't feel "natural". Sort of how my 2001 Cadillac STS felt -- it had laudable levels of grip and performance for what it was, but there's only so much you can do when you have to compensate for a V-8 hanging out in front of the front wheels.

Our MDX and Ridgeline don't feel as artificial...because they're not set up for the sharp handling that V-6 Accords and Acura TLs are, and because there's much more mass there in general (both are 4,500+ pounds).


cool post esp. relating to how these engines were designed in relation to the suspension. The V6 was tepid and pedestrian in namely throttle response and subsequent rising RPM performance with the MC oil but the second I try anything else and the list was enormous. I tried the Pennzoil full synthetic 5w-20 as well M1 and even the Valvoline Max life but those were the only "transgressions" from the MC. Once I fed it a steady and consistent diet of Motorcraft 5w-20, it was peppy and made ownership much more palatable.
 
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Originally Posted By: MoparMan1891
Diverging on the topic a little, the dealer put in Honda's oil which I guess is a blend (?)

My friend runs Mobil 1 0W20 fully synthetic and he idles at a slightly lower RPM than mine. Same car, same model year, similar driving style.

His RPM drops from ~1900 to idle (1200-1300) sooner than mine on the really cold days.



That would have nothing to do with the oil. The idle speed is controlled by the computer, reading info from various sensors and acting upon them. Slight differences between vehicles would be considered normal, odds are the conditions weren't identical anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: MoparMan1891
His RPM drops from ~1900 to idle (1200-1300) sooner than mine on the really cold days.


The normal idle is 1200-1300 rpm on this car? Or do the rpms drop even lower after it warms up fully?
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: MoparMan1891
His RPM drops from ~1900 to idle (1200-1300) sooner than mine on the really cold days.


The normal idle is 1200-1300 rpm on this car? Or do the rpms drop even lower after it warms up fully?



Good point. If that's the idle for a fully warmed up engine he has problems.
 
Originally Posted By: MoparMan1891
Thanks a lot, guys!

Just reading about how Honda and Toyota keep their OLM algorithm real simple as compared to Chrysler or GM.

Makes sense that it probably drops down in 10% increments.

I will send an update when I hit 1000 miles!



Simplifying the OLM read out to only 1 significant digit is fine (ie 10% increments). But I hope Honda hasn't simplified the actual oil wear/life inputs to make them little more than just a mileage/rpm indicator. If it were my car I'd want them to be utilizing the most up to date inputs to make the best estimate of actual engine oil condition (via engine rpm, engine % load, ambient temp, engine oil and/or coolant temp, cold start effects, warm up periods, idling, highway driving, etc.). If it's too simple, it's essentially useless.
 
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: MoparMan1891
Thanks a lot, guys!

Just reading about how Honda and Toyota keep their OLM algorithm real simple as compared to Chrysler or GM.

Makes sense that it probably drops down in 10% increments.

I will send an update when I hit 1000 miles!



Simplifying the OLM read out to only 1 significant digit is fine (ie 10% increments). But I hope Honda hasn't simplified the actual oil wear/life inputs to make them little more than just a mileage/rpm indicator. If it were my car I'd want them to be utilizing the most up to date inputs to make the best estimate of actual engine oil condition (via engine rpm, engine % load, ambient temp, engine oil and/or coolant temp, cold start effects, warm up periods, idling, highway driving, etc.). If it's too simple, it's essentially useless.


Here's a link that will hopefully help you understand the Honda system is not "essentially useless."

http://www.curryhondany.com/honda-maintenance-minder-faq.htm
 
In my TL in signature, stayed at 100% "until" I put 1000 miles on the oil then soon after it went down to 90%. Presently have almost 5000 miles on the current synthetic oil and its at 30% on the OLM. I would imagine if you have the 4cyl -- its probably a very similar set up.
 
Originally Posted By: Bill_G
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: MoparMan1891
Thanks a lot, guys!

Just reading about how Honda and Toyota keep their OLM algorithm real simple as compared to Chrysler or GM.

Makes sense that it probably drops down in 10% increments.

I will send an update when I hit 1000 miles!



Simplifying the OLM read out to only 1 significant digit is fine (ie 10% increments). But I hope Honda hasn't simplified the actual oil wear/life inputs to make them little more than just a mileage/rpm indicator. If it were my car I'd want them to be utilizing the most up to date inputs to make the best estimate of actual engine oil condition (via engine rpm, engine % load, ambient temp, engine oil and/or coolant temp, cold start effects, warm up periods, idling, highway driving, etc.). If it's too simple, it's essentially useless.


Here's a link that will hopefully help you understand the Honda system is not "essentially useless."

http://www.curryhondany.com/honda-maintenance-minder-faq.htm


Especially the part from the link that says: "Honda does not recommend the use of synthetic oil...". Kinda makes one question whatever else is said there.
 
[/quote]

Here's a link that will hopefully help you understand the Honda system is not "essentially useless."

http://www.curryhondany.com/honda-maintenance-minder-faq.htm [/quote]

Especially the part from the link that says: "Honda does not recommend the use of synthetic oil...". Kinda makes one question whatever else is said there.[/quote]

This particular link only went to MY 2011 - Honda went to 0w20 in 2012, so the comment about not recommending synthetic is probably something the dealer came up with on their own. The manual for my Civic does not recommend one way or the other - just states the weight and use oil with the starburst on the label. Regardless, everything I've read on this board about the Honda Maintenance Minder supports it is more sophisticated than just mileage. Folks that do a lot of highway driving go 10k miles plus to get to 15% oil life and folks who do a lot of stop and go (like me) only get to around 6k miles.
 
Our Civic is at 70% life left with 2200 miles on it.
It dropped to 90% at exactly 672 miles.
So you're ok.
 
Originally Posted By: EdwardC
I believe his Accord is a K24 model. I don't think they made an accord sport with the V6, although, the J V6 with a real manual transmission would be a fun car! Might need a bit of wizardry to keep the handling good though.


Yeah I saw the rare 2006 MT V6 in sedan form at a nearby car lot. I got the old school Lexus 2 door and slow footed but Like is for only ~5k while gas prices are down. Can't wait to see if the 16 Civic Si will have a DCT or will we need to step up to the Type R or S or whatever it is going to be called for that.
 
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Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: MoparMan1891
His RPM drops from ~1900 to idle (1200-1300) sooner than mine on the really cold days.


The normal idle is 1200-1300 rpm on this car? Or do the rpms drop even lower after it warms up fully?



The idle RPM drops even further to ~700 when fully warmed up.
 
Reading through the Curry Honda's maintenance minder notes, I'm not sure why they wouldn't recommend fully synthetic oil.

Maybe to put off guys like us who will bring a Pennzoil or Mobil and then the Honda oils go unsold?

But I would assume people who care about oils are probably 5-10% of all owners of all OEMs.
 
Originally Posted By: MoparMan1891
Reading through the Curry Honda's maintenance minder notes, I'm not sure why they wouldn't recommend fully synthetic oil.

Maybe to put off guys like us who will bring a Pennzoil or Mobil and then the Honda oils go unsold?

But I would assume people who care about oils are probably 5-10% of all owners of all OEMs.

Meh, I think you are over reading the term. The term "not recommended" has turned from it's literal meaning into an antonym in common use, as people want to be PC and not be as negative in review writing.

If something is "not" recommended, semantically it doesn't necessarily mean it is discouraged from use. It could mean neutral or no comment.

So if synthetic isn't mentioned in the manual, it is literally "not" recommended, because nobody recommended it.

In yelp terms, it doesn't mean it's got a 0 star rating, it is just no ratings at all.
 
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Originally Posted By: raytseng
Meh, I think you are over reading the term. The term "not recommended" has turned from it's literal meaning into an antonym in common use, as people want to be PC and not be as negative in review writing.

I would agree with that, particularly if the manual were not originally written in English and its translation might be a bit more literal and formal than that to which we are accustomed.
 
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