Higher Temp Thermostat = More heat in winter?

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Just to clarify this, ALL antifreeze is ethylene glycol, with the exception of the "safe" antifreezes, like Sierra, that are propylene glycol. The difference in antifreeze types is in the corrosion inhibitor package, which is a small percentage of the overall product.

If the owner's manual only specifies "ethylene glycol", then just about anything can be used. I think it would make a lot of sense to go with the Toyota Red antifreeze in this car, but G05, Dexcool, Peak Global, or nearly anything should work. I wouldn't use green anymore, given the better technologies available now.
 
Stupid ISP
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[ September 10, 2004, 11:45 AM: Message edited by: motorguy222 ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Matt_S:
Just to clarify this, ALL antifreeze is ethylene glycol, with the exception of the "safe" antifreezes, like Sierra, that are propylene glycol. The difference in antifreeze types is in the corrosion inhibitor package, which is a small percentage of the overall product.

The reason that you should NOT use certain antifreeze in certain cars is additives.The ethylene glycol is NOT the problem.It is the other chemicals that ARE added
to the coolant for corrosion etc.
These additives are not always interchangeable in differing vehicles.This is why it would probably be best and easiest to stay with the Peak or its equivalent or the Toyo brand.

Here is another article explaining more about this.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_sat/1999/3/right_coolant/print.phtml

You've got the hood up for the first underhood check in a while, which isn't surprising in this era of self-service gas. Checking the coolant level, you see that it's down. You don't carry a jug of antifreeze with you, so instead of do ing anything, you just worry about it until you get home.
Actually, you realize that it's finally time to change the whole system, not just top up.
At least the auto parts store is on the way home, all the better to pick up a couple of jugs of
antifreeze. But what kind? The parts store now stocks three colors: yellow, green and orange.
Huh? Isn't all antifreeze green? Isn't it all the same?

Bad News, Good News
The bad news is that it doesn't come down to color matching. Isn't all antifreeze compatible?. Sorry, but it isn't .There are a few cases where you can get a fast case of corrosion, some where the water pump can be both eroded and corroded to an early death, and a lot of cases where you can shorten the effective life of the antifreeze.
Antifreeze itself (most commonly a
chemical called ethylene glycol) doesn't wear out–ever–but the key ingredients are the rust and
corrosion inhibitors, and they get used up. The most common inh ibitors, silicates for aluminum
protection, are used up faster than others. That's why some new cars (all General Motors,
Mercury Cougar, VW/Audi models) have red or orange antifreeze with a new class of
inhibitors, called organic acids. Examples of U.S. brands with these organic acids: Havoline
Dex-Cool and Prestone Extended Life, both recommended for five years or 150,000 miles.
That's the good news.

Fill 'Er Up
How about just pouring orange antifre eze into every cooling system, say, yours? Sorry, but it's
not that simple.
The new organic acid antifreezes may be used only if the cooling system has an aluminum radiator (rather than copper-and-brass).
However, let's assume the reaso n you're thinking of a coolant change is because you're
changing a cooling system part (pump, radiator, heater, thermostat housing) on a system with a
conventional coolant, not an organic acid orange or pink. In that case, don't change to organic
acid ora nge, even if the part you're installing is aluminum. Use a fresh fill of familiar U.S.
yellow/gold or green silicated antifreeze.
The two orange extended-life antifreezes are compatible with each other, with what's factory-fill in GM ca rs and the '99 Mercury Cougar, and with the pink in VW/Audi cars.

However,they're not compatible with a special orange antifreeze in 1998-99 Chrysler L/H cars (Dodge Intrepid/Chrysler Concorde and 300M), a special "hybrid" mix of organic acids and silicates.

The green in most Japanese cars contains no silicates, so it's not the same as the green in the parts store. The yellow in some European cars contains some silicates, but it's very different
from yellow Prestone, the top-selling U.S. brand. And then there is red antifreeze used by
Toyota, and blue used on some European and Korean cars.

Freshen Up That Cup For You, Sir?
What about just topping up a system that's low? What kind should you use? If the system
(except for Chrysler L/H) has orange or pink, use Prestone or Havoline orange for top-up. All
you have on hand is regular U.S. yellow/gold or green? Well, if you're desperate, use what
you've got, because it's better than running low o n coolant and possibly overheating. But the
mixture is shortening the life of the antifreeze. By how much? It would take lab tests to tell, so
the best deal is to do the equivalent of a "retrofit."

Can you retrofit all systems ? Sorry, the answer is no .

What about draining green or yellow/gold from the radiator and refilling with
orange? Is that considered a "retrofit"? No, and you'd better not try that, either.

What if the system has Japanese green, Toyota red, Korea n or European blue, or European
yellow? As we noted, European and Korean formulas have silicates, so U.S. green or
yellow/gold is all right, but it slightly compromises the extended life formulas some have.

Typically all that means is: Change at 30,000 in stead of 36,000 miles. The Japanese green and
red antifreezes have no silicates, but they are very different from U.S. orange. If you really drain out the old antifreeze from any of these systems (thoroughly rinse the system with fresh water),you certainly can refill with a U.S. yellow/gold or green silicated antifreeze.


Now let's look at "retrofit" and "drain and fill" and explain what you can and can't do
safely, and a bit of why.

If a vehicle has a copper-and-brass radiator, forget a retrofit, says General Motors, because the organic acid (orange) antifreeze may not provide adequate protection for the lead solder in that radiator. The Chrysler orange hybrid combination of silicates and organic acids is meant to provide special protection for the water pump. Sorry, you can buy it only at a Chrysler-brand dealer.

Prestone believes you can retrofit to its organic acid orange almost any vehicle with an aluminum
radiator and cooling system that has been well-maintained and is in good condition, if you do it
right.However,the antifreeze maker recognizes the possibility of a problem with Dodge truck
5.9-liter V8 water pumps,for which green or yellow/gold U.S. antifreeze is recommended–if
you don't get Chrysler's specific orange.

[ September 10, 2004, 12:01 PM: Message edited by: motorguy222 ]
 
Motorguy, I completely understand all the intricacies surrounding automotive coolants. Automotive cooling systems aren't rocket science, though, and I can't believe that the various manufacturers are using materials in their cooling systems that are much different from each other (I'm talking about the hard parts, not the coolant). The major problems people are having with coolants come with the interactions between the differing anti-corrosion additive packages and in cases where the integrity of the cooling system is compromised, like where a head or intake manifold gasket or a radiator cap fails. If a cooling system is clean and tight, I really can't believe there's a coolant on the market that will harm it. Some coolants last longer than others, and some withstand adverse conditions better than others. That's where you make your choice. Given that the OP's owner's manual isn't specific, though, I think he's pretty much unlimited in his choices, given that he thoroughly cleans and flushes the system first.
 
I went to autozone yesterday and tried to order the part. No dice, their warehouse was out of them. Ill probably try again sometime. But for now I think Ill just cut up a pepsi box and put that by the radiator. Im just going to flush out the Peak and put in the Zerex G-05 that I already bought. Should last longer than Peak anyway. More similar in formula to the Toyota red that it had for the past 5 years.
 
MattS,I did not write the above articles that I posted.They are from Popular Mechanics.
While coolants and coolant systems may not be rocket science,I TRUST what the experts at Popular Mechanics say more than what I or someone else says(no offense).

I never said that anyone could not use regular green antifreeze or any other,I have only cautioned the use of differing coolants considering what ramifications may or may not be present if the WRONG coolant is used.
Once again,the articles I posted are not MINE ,they are from Popular Mechanics.

The articles DO say that you CANT use certain coolants in certain systems.Once again,this is NOT my opinion,It is from PM.

If you read the articles you will see that certain coolants ARE NOT interchangeable.This is a quote from the posted article:

"Isn't all antifreeze compatible?. Sorry, but it isn't ."

Once again,these are NOT my words.
-=================================================
Here is another quote :"Can you retrofit all systems ? Sorry, the answer is no."

What about draining green or yellow/gold from the radiator and refilling with
orange? Is that considered a "retrofit"?
No, and you'd better not try that, either."

MattS,once again,these are NOT my words,they are from experts.
==================================================
As I said,I have not told anyone that they CANT use a certain antifreeze,I have only tried to educate people about the differing products and the uses for such.If the wrong product is used,damage can be done to the cooling system.Does this apply to FL-400S? That is for him to decide regarding the cooling system in his car.

Considering the amount of time and work that MUST be undertaken to switch (if possible) to a different coolant,is it really worth it?

Also,if a person chooses not to believe the posted articles,that is their choice.
However,if they do choose not to heed the experts advice,they will have to accept the consequences of such.

Once again,I have only posted articles from experts.

==================================================

Here is another article explaining the additives in antifreeze.The whole article is at this link:

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/tr/tr110046.htm


Under The Cap, Larry Carley, Tire Review, November 2000

Today's Coolant Options Require Close Attention, Different Techniques

When you open a radiator cap these days, you're never quite sure what you're going to find. Antifreeze chemistry has undergone some significant changes in recent years, and the familiar green antifreeze long used in most vehicles is being replaced with a spectrum of not-so-familiar antifreezes that range in color from red to orange to pink to blue.

So it's important to know what type of antifreeze is in the system so you can add a compatible coolant, or replace it with one that provides equivalent or better protection.

Ethylene Glycol
Ethylene glycol (EG) has been the main ingredient in almost all automotive antifreezes for many years, and will continue to be for the foreseeable future. Straight ethylene glycol freezes at about 8° F, boils at 330° F, and carries heat about 15% less efficiently than water. But when mixed in equal parts with water, it creates a coolant well-suited to year-round driving for most applications.

The recommended 50/50 mixture of EG and water provides freezing protection down to -34° F and boilover protection to 265° F in a radiator with a 15 psi cap. If the proportion of antifreeze to water is increased to 70% EG and 30% water, the freezing point drops to -84° F and the boiling temperature goes up to 276° F. Mixtures greater than 70/30 are not recommended because the coolant's ability to carry heat declines as the proportion of antifreeze increases.

Straight EG antifreeze should never be used in an engine because it may allow the engine to overheat. Likewise, straight water should never be used because it provides no freezing, boiling or corrosion protection.

Propylene Glycol
Another base ingredient that is used in place of EG in some aftermarket antifreezes (like Prestone's LowTox and Safe Brands' Sierra antifreeze) today is propylene glycol (PG). The coolant's thermal characteristics are similar to those for EG: a 50/50 mixture of PG and water provides freezing protection down to -26° F and boilover protection to 256° F. If the coolant mixture is increased to 60/40, coolant freezing protection goes down to -54° F.

The main advantage of PG compared to EG, however, is that it is considered nontoxic to animals. That doesn't mean it is safe to drink, but it greatly reduces the risk of poisoning a pet.

Pure PG boils at 370° F and provides freezing protection down to -70° F, so it is sometimes used straight without any water at all as a coolant in racing applications. Running PG straight provides better cooling because there is no water to vaporize in hot areas of the cylinder. This also allows the use of very low pressure or even no pressure cooling systems.

While PG and EG are both compatible and can be intermixed without affecting cooling performance, intermixing the two different antifreezes is not recommended because doing so defeats the reduced toxicity advantages of PG. Also, if a vehicle's cooling system is filled with an extended life EG coolant, adding PG - not currently formulated for extended service - will reduce the service life of the coolant mixture to that of a conventional green coolant.

Intermixing PG and EG antifreeze also makes it impossible to get an accurate indication of the coolant's strength if you're using a hydrometer to check coolant concentration. The specific gravity of EG and PG are different, so a mixture of the two will usually indicate a lower freezing point than the coolant actually provides.

The best way to determine the concentration of PG in uncontaminated coolant (no EG present) is to use a refractometer. The reason is because the specific gravity of PG increases up to about a 70% concentration, then falls off considerably. Consequently, a 100% PG solution will read the same as a 45% solution on a hydrometer.

General Motors and others approve PG as an acceptable replacement coolant, but if making a change it's important to remove all of the old EG coolant before adding PG to the system.

Corrosion Inhibitors
Because coolant is in constant contact with the metal parts of the engine and radiator, some type of corrosion inhibitors must be used in the antifreeze to protect all metal surfaces from electrolysis. That includes cast iron, steel, aluminum, brass, copper and lead solder.

Most conventional antifreezes formulated for the North American market, whether green or yellow in color, contain inorganic salts of borate, phosphate and silicate to prevent rust and corrosion. The additives create an alkaline coolant mixture that typically tests at about 10.5 on a pH scale. The silicates form a protective coating on metal surfaces, and are especially good at protecting aluminum.

To ensure that coolant remains alkaline for a reasonable length of time, there must be enough corrosion inhibitor to neutralize the acids formed from glycol degradation that occurs over time. This neutralizing capability is called "reserve alkalinity," and it varies depending on the type and quantity of additives used in a particular brand of antifreeze.

Heat, dissolved oxygen, minerals in the water, and corrosion inhibitor reactions at the metal surface gradually use up the corrosion inhibitors. And once depleted, the coolant becomes acidic and corrosion accelerates. The secret to preventing internal corrosion, therefore, is to change the coolant before all the reserve alkalinity has been used up.

Periodic coolant changes are especially important with today's bimetal engines and aluminum radiators and heater cores because the different metals create a miniature battery cell that promotes electrolytic corrosion. Aluminum becomes the sacrificial anode, iron the cathode, with the coolant serving as the charge-carrying electrolyte.

The higher the percentage of dissolved minerals and salts in the coolant, the better it conducts electricity and the faster the aluminum is eaten away. As long as the corrosion inhibitors are working, the process is held in check. But once they're used up, corrosion starts to eat away. The most vulnerable components are usually the thinnest, which include the radiator and heater core.

The Effect of Air & Water
Other problems can also accelerate the breakdown of the coolant. An exhaust leak into the cooling system through a cracked head or leaky gasket will quickly destroy reserve alkalinity in the coolant because oxygen reacts with the additives in the antifreeze. If an engine has a leaky head gasket, don't reuse the old antifreeze when the gasket is replaced.

The amount of additive needed to protect the cooling system isn't much - only about 2% to 3% of the total liquid in the jug. This is usually enough to protect for at least two years or 30,000 miles in most vehicle applications - or even longer if the antifreeze is mixed with relatively pure water (distilled or deionized).

Some say ordinary antifreeze can go as long as five years or 100,000 miles before the corrosion inhibitors are fully depleted - provided pure water is used to fill the system, the cooling system was relatively clean when filled (no accumulated rust or scale), and the coolant level is kept full with no air entrapment.

Hard water that contains high amounts of calcium and magnesium can react with phosphates in the additive package to form sediment and scale. That's why European vehicle manufacturers use antifreezes that contain no phosphates (hard water is common in Europe). European antifreeze may be dyed blue, yellow (Mercedes) or pink (VW and Audi).

Tap water in North America also contains calcium, but isn't as hard as European tap water so phosphates are considered okay to use here.

Under no circumstances should softened water be used in a cooling system because softened water substitutes sodium (salt) for calcium. Sodium is very corrosive to all metal surfaces and undermines the corrosion-inhibiting abilities of the additives.

The Japanese and other Asian vehicle manufacturers, by comparison, prefer an additive package that contains phosphates and other inhibitors but no or low silicates. Japanese coolants may be dyed red, but some newer blends are dyed green.

According to the aftermarket antifreeze suppliers we interviewed, using a typical green antifreeze formulated for North American domestic vehicles in European or Japanese vehicles should cause no problems. The basic metallurgy is the same so the degree of protection provided should be the same: two years or 30,000 miles.

OAT Technology
The latest corrosion inhibiting additives are based on a different chemistry called Organic Acid Technology (OAT).

Antifreezes with OAT corrosion inhibitors contain organic acid salts of mono- and dicarboxylic acids such as sebasic and octanoic acids, plus tolytriazole. The coolant is less alkaline and protects with a pH reading of only about 8.3.

Brands with the OAT additive package include Texaco/Havoline's Dex-Cool and Prestone's Extended Life 5/150 antifreeze. OAT coolants contain orange dye to distinguish them from other coolants with conventional additive packages.

The main advantage of OAT technology is extended service life: up to five years or 150,000 miles. But to achieve this length of service, the OAT coolant must not be intermixed with any other type of antifreeze. If the system is topped off with ordinary green antifreeze, the corrosion protection will be reduced to that of a conventional coolant, say the coolant makers.

GM was the first domestic vehicle manufacturer to make the switch to OAT coolants, starting in 1995. Since 1996, all new GM cars and light trucks have been factory-filled with orange Dex-Cool coolant.

GM says Dex-Cool can be used in older vehicles provided the cooling system is first flushed to remove all traces of conventional coolant. But people have said OAT-based coolants do not provide adequate protection for vehicles with lead-soldered copper/brass radiators - a charge the makers of OAT antifreeze say is not true. Texaco/Havoline and Prestone both say their products meet or exceed the ASTM D-2570 standards for corrosion protection.

Sowing OATs
There has been some controversy regarding the use of OAT coolants because of sludging problems GM experienced in some 4.3L S10 truck engines. GM service bulletin #99-06-02-012 says the sludging problem is caused by air pockets in the cooling system from failing to maintain the coolant level or not getting all the air out the system when refilling the cooling system.

GM's fix for the condition is not to switch back to a conventional coolant (which some people advocate), but to flush the system repeatedly until all the brown sludge has been removed. The system can then be refilled a 50/50 mix of Dex-Cool and clean water.

Despite the problems with the 4.3L truck application, the use of OAT antifreeze is expected to grow. DaimlerChrysler introduced its own extended service OAT hybrid coolant for passenger cars in 1998. Unlike Dex-Cool, the DaimlerChrysler coolant contains silicates for extra aluminum protection. DaimlerChrysler, however, does not recommend using their OAT hybrid in older vehicles.

Ford in North America is still using conventional additives in its antifreeze, with the exception of the 1999 and up Mercury Cougar which now uses an OAT coolant. But Ford of Europe has switched over to OAT antifreeze for many of its vehicles. Truck manufacturers including Navistar, Mack and Caterpillar have also approved OAT.

When refilling a late model GM vehicle that was factory-filled with Dex-Cool, you have to decide what type of coolant to use. According to GM, Dex-Cool is the only acceptable coolant. But once the vehicle is out of warranty, there's no reason why you can't use another brand of OAT coolant or a conventional EG or PG coolant, say the makers of these products.

The same goes for using an OAT coolant in an older vehicle that contains a conventional green coolant. If the system is thoroughly flushed, you can give your customer the extended service benefits that an OAT coolant provides.

OAT coolants can also be used to refill European and Asian vehicles, provided the system is first flushed to remove all traces of the old coolant.

The National Automobile Radiator Service Association (NARSA), however, is more cautious about the use of OAT coolants. NARSA says OAT coolant should not be used in any Ford product (except the 1999 Cougar) or Chrysler vehicle because there is a risk of water pump cavitation erosion. GM reportedly redesigned its water pumps to eliminate cavitation erosion.

Regardless of what type of coolant is used to refill a cooling system, the system should be cleaned if sediment, rust or scale are present.

[ September 10, 2004, 05:22 PM: Message edited by: motorguy222 ]
 
FL400S. Why don't you try a real parts store like NAPA or Car Quest? Might have better luck. Aside for a good deal on oil, I stay away from those Autozone/Kragen/Pepboys-type stores. As our sage President has said, “There’s an old saying in Tennessee --- I know It’s in Texas, probably in Tennessee --- that says ‘fool me once, shame --- shame on you. You fool me --- can’t get fooled again.’”

Or was that The Who???
rolleyes.gif
 
So far we've drifted a great deal here. Has it occured to anyone that he may actually have a fully functional heating system that just can't hack it in -40 conditions?

quote:

The Tercel heater core is an itsy-bitsy tiny thing.

Absolutely ...and it is an itsy-bitsy engine that is sheading heat via its aluminum exterior as well as via the heater core.

The thermostat may be fully functional and closed.

The cooling system may be sufficiently clean and free from debris/scale.

I experience this situation, to a far lesser degree, at above zero condition with a cast iron engine and a 195 thermostat.

So far, and in the absence of any evidence that would lead to the conclusion that this car indeed has a "problem" (like overheating or at least above normal temps in summer)..the best suggestion that I've heard here is ...
quote:

Just throw a box in front of the radiator.

 
I always noticed a big difference between a 180 and a 195 in my old car. My buddy also put a 195 in his '89 Corolla 1.6L a few years ago (stock was 180) and he claims it made a big difference.

It is probably a good idea in this situation to block the front openings, but don't put anything right in front of the radiator or there is the possibility that you (or someone that borrows it and doesn't watch the temp guage) could overheat the engine.
 
This car is built like a fine swiss watch (Edmunds paperback 1997). I could pour Mobil 1 in the cooling system and it would be fine
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Im rinsing the autorx and put techron in the tank and it idles smooth as silk. Even with Peak in it. Im 90% sure theres nothing wrong with this car other than it just cant put out heat in very cold temps. There is nothing drawing off the engine except water pump and alternator. Ill try calling Napa I guess. Them and carquest are way on the other side of town.
 
I'll throw my experience in here. I got my Cherokee in early 1997 ( new 1996 model). After a year I drained the green stuff out and put in Prestone 5/150, and have been using it ever since. I don't lose any coolant, I don't have any problems, I have the original water pump @ 99k miles.
No leaks, no gunk, no nothing except orange coolant.
Of course, I do make a point to change it out every year or 18 months.
 
Gary Allen - Do you remember the old Volvos that had a crank inside to lower a curtain in front of the radiator for when it got real cold out?
 
quote:

Gary Allen - Do you remember the old Volvos that had a crank inside to lower a curtain in front of the radiator for when it got real cold out?

Can't say that I do ..but I owned a Pukeout 504 diesel wagon (gosh ..I miss it so - a most loved and loathed car) where it had a nicely fitted cold weather cowl mask ..little shutters on it for extreme stuff.
 
quote:

Originally posted by mechtech:
Gary Allen - Do you remember the old Volvos that had a crank inside to lower a curtain in front of the radiator for when it got real cold out?

A friend of mine use to have one of those old Volvos. If memory serves, the "curtain" or "shade" was actually raised from a roller at the bottom of the radiator. Quite ingenious since if the engine ever started to get to hot, you could just crank the "shade" down. Worked like a charm when we had those below 0F days in upstate NY.
 
quote:

Originally posted by FL-400S:
When it gets REALLY cold in winter, my poor 1.5L Tercel wont heat up. Its not broken its always been like this, just a cool running engine. Even after driving 6 miles across town in traffic, very little heat. I recently changed the antifreeze. The 5 year old toyota red was thick but still sorta clear. After 1 month this crappy yellow green Peak has already turned dark camo green color in the overflow tank. When I changed it I put in a new 180*F thermostat thinking it would give more heat. I would have gotten the 192 but autozone said theyd have to order it and I didnt want to wait. Would a 192*F thermostat let the car heat up more and give more heat in the winter? Or will it just make it run hotter in the summer?

Sounds like you have a stuck open thermostat.
 
Seems I cant get the 192 at Autozone anymore. So Ill resort to changing the peak to Zerex G-05 and using a cardboard box in the dead of winter.
 
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