High Performance Lubricants Engine Cleaner

[High Performance Lubricants]

Since the topic has come up a few times I am posting the PDS in the PCMO, Diesel, and Euro sections. This is a safe path to clean varnish and or sludge left behind by other oils. There are no solvents in this oil. It has enough ester to clean but still be safe with elastomers. Simply add a quart to the current oil and can be used for 1-2,000 miles preferably but can be run longer if needed. Changing a filter at 2,000 miles is recommended should you wish to clean further.

 

[pb379]

The question has been raised by @BoiseRob if this is for HDEO applications. Something about Adpack?

So-is it for HDEO applications?

 

[High Performance Lubricants]

It can be used for diesel or gasoline engines

 

[pb379]

I'm using it in my truck. I have 2qts in the sump with VPBE 5W-40. I have about 1,000 miles so far. I changed the oil filter today. There was nothing different or abnormal that I could tell from cutting the filter and inspecting it with my eyes and a flashlight. I plan to run this cleaner for 6,000 miles IF the fuel dilution stays low enough. The reason I'm using it is to hopefully clean the piston rings in the engine as I have a fuel dilution problem. I will be sending in a sample to OAI at 2,000 miles to check fuel dilution.

Here's the oil filter carrier video.

 

[KICK]

like most things advertised for the automotive trade, it is hard to find any objective proof that "mechanic in a can" works and better than not using any given brand of mechanic in a can

 

[OVERKILL]

like most things advertised for the automotive trade, it is hard to find any objective proof that "mechanic in a can" works and better than not using any given brand of mechanic in a can

Definitely not designed to be a "mechanic in a can", it's a concentrated ester solution that has the capability to clean-up deposits. It won't fix mechanical defects or any "issues" you might have, and doesn't claim to. Its purpose is to just remove varnish/sludge and this is through very well understood and accepted chemistry to that effect. It isn't a flush or solvent and this process will not be quick, as esters do not facilitate rapid removal of deposits.

 

[BigShug681]

like most things advertised for the automotive trade, it is hard to find any objective proof that "mechanic in a can" works and better than not using any given brand of mechanic in a can

Been a member for 17 years and all 14 comments have been within the last month, interesting to say the least

 

[spasm3]

My understanding is that this is an ester oil with an add-pack. If I understand how this works, it's designed to clean a bit before switching to HPL ester oils.
Cleans slower than their ester oils do, yet does not dilute the parent oil, as it's a fully additized oil.

It's not a solvent flush.

@HPL can chime in here, if I have any of this wrong.

 

[High Performance Lubricants]

My understanding is that this is an ester oil with an add-pack. If I understand how this works, it's designed to clean a bit before switching to HPL ester oils.
Cleans slower than their ester oils do, yet does not dilute the parent oil, as it's a fully additized oil.

It's not a solvent flush.

@HPL can chime in here, if I have any of this wrong.

You have it 100% correct.

David

 

[02zx9r rev2]

So what happens if you decide to use the engine flush and not switch to HPL oils? Use this for a bit of clean up and use it again in say every 50K miles or so?

Can you use/add this in small increments like you did with Auto-rx with their maintenance doses?

 

[OVERKILL]

So what happens if you decide to use the engine flush and not switch to HPL oils? Use this for a bit of clean up and use it again in say every 50K miles or so?

Can you use/add this in small increments like you did with Auto-rx with their maintenance doses?

Yes, absolutely.

 

[bismic1]

Any changes to the recommended amount to add as it relates to the full oil system volume?

 

[High Performance Lubricants]

No changes. 1:5

 

[Bighorn2500]

@High Performance Lubricants, have you ever tested the engine cleaner in an agricultural application for hours use?

I just put the SAE40 Engine Cleaner I recently purchased in my Compact John Deere tractor, about how many hours for a filter change and how many hours could it be run overall to clean.

Tractor specs (1978 model year) by the book 100 hours OCI, 200 hours filter change. I usually just change both once a year but never accumulate 100 hours in a year's use mowing, snow plowing/snow blowing, etc.

 

[High Performance Lubricants]

At the 1:5 ratio it is safe for any amount of time sitting in the equipment. It will clean most when it sees heat. 100-200 hours would not be a concern. It wouldn’t hurt to change a filter at 100 if you run the blend to 200 hours.

David

 

[JHZR2]

I’m in the process of running about 1:7 with Delvac 1300 in my 1991 300D with 233k. Just put about 140 miles on the blend and I think the noisy lifter is quieter. Not perfect, not fixed, but quieter.

Ill be interested to see how this progresses.

 

[KICK]

Been a member for 17 years and all 14 comments have been within the last month, interesting to say the least

I used to just read the stuff and mostly keep my thoughts to myself.. worth saying I have been a mechanic for money since 1978... not that it matters on this type of forum. So I have this professional opinion of mechanic in a can based on real world observations that really doesn't sell well . You could probably mix 1/2 qt of diesel fuel with 1/2 quart of any ATF and mix that concoction 1 part concoction to 10 parts lube oil and achieve about the same result..

 

[Astro14]

I used to just read the stuff and mostly keep my thoughts to myself.. worth saying I have been a mechanic for money since 1978... not that it matters on this type of forum. So I have this professional opinion of mechanic in a can based on real world observations that really doesn't sell well . You could probably mix 1/2 qt of diesel fuel with 1/2 quart of any ATF and mix that concoction 1 part concoction to 10 parts lube oil and achieve about the same result..

No, adding solvents to your crankcase with a thin oil is nothing like adding alkylated naphthalene and esters.

The former is old wive's tales, the latter, chemistry.

I've never understood the love affair that mechanics have with putting diesel fuel in oil - all it does is destroy bearings if run above idle. The ATF myth refuses to die - want to know the irony?

ATF was once made from oil (whale oil) that had - wait for it - lots of esters!!

It isn't anymore, of course. So, adding ATF will do nothing, if the ATF was made in the last 60 years. It's just a thin oil. Nothing special about it for cleaning.

Now, the HPL engine cleaner that you're claiming won't work is made from the very thing that you claim might work.

Ironic indeed.

 

[KICK]

No, adding solvents to your crankcase with a thin oil is nothing like adding alkylated naphthalene and esters.

The former is old wive's tales, the latter, chemistry.

I've never understood the love affair that mechanics have with putting diesel fuel in oil - all it does is destroy bearings if run above idle. The ATF myth refuses to die - want to know the irony?

ATF was once made from oil (whale oil) that had - wait for it - lots of esters!!

It isn't anymore, of course. So, adding ATF will do nothing, if the ATF was made in the last 60 years. It's just a thin oil. Nothing special about it for cleaning.

Now, the HPL engine cleaner that you're claiming won't work is made from the very thing that you claim might work.

Ironic indeed.

you know what is funny? I've worked on a quite a few Detroits where the injector solenoid developed a leak ( nature of the beast and design when injectors are under the rocker cover) or the jumper lines were leaking on the old 2 stroke Detroit's which put quite a bit of fuel into the lube oil before we noticed it... usually because you start getting low oil pressure codes issues.. fuel oil dilution far beyond 10% at that point, 5% was allowable... anyway as far as I can remember ( I was at it for more than 40 years) never seen one with destroyed bearings because the lube oil had fuel in it..... they kept right on running after we repaired the injector and replaced the oil... and they were quite clean under the rocker cover so I'll go so far as to say I've seen the cam follower snap off on a Series 60 and it filled the engine with fuel to the point fuel was coming out the dipstick before it quit running.. so maybe your theory is better on paper than it is in real life.

 

[spasm3]

you know what is funny? I've worked on a quite a few Detroits where the injector solenoid developed a leak ( nature of the beast and design when injectors are under the rocker cover) or the jumper lines were leaking on the old 2 stroke Detroit's which put quite a bit of fuel into the lube oil before we noticed it... usually because you start getting low oil pressure codes issues.. fuel oil dilution far beyond 10% at that point, 5% was allowable... anyway as far as I can remember ( I was at it for more than 40 years) never seen one with destroyed bearings because the lube oil had fuel in it..... they kept right on running after we repaired the injector and replaced the oil... and they were quite clean under the rocker cover so I'll go so far as to say I've seen the cam follower snap off on a Series 60 and it filled the engine with fuel to the point fuel was coming out the dipstick before it quit running.. so maybe your theory is better on paper than it is in real life.

Just because and engine does not fail, does not mean its a good practice.

By your statements, if the engine does not blow up, it must be a good for it.