High mileage stories using 5W-20
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Originally Posted By: FZ1
A diesel is not comparable to a gasser.
You are right. A diesel is much harder on oil, runs closer clearances and tighter tolerances. It also abuses the oil in ways a gas engine never can, like lubricating the injector pumps for example. They also hammer the rod bearings.
A diesel is not comparable to a gasser.
You are right. A diesel is much harder on oil, runs closer clearances and tighter tolerances. It also abuses the oil in ways a gas engine never can, like lubricating the injector pumps for example. They also hammer the rod bearings.
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Originally Posted By: FZ1
Right. The compression could be 20:1.
And then add 40lbs of boost
Right. The compression could be 20:1.
And then add 40lbs of boost
I had 200K miles on my 99 Grand Marquis when I sold it and the last 160K miles were on 5w20 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend.
The Ford 4.6 seems to love the 5w20 Motorcraft.
The Ford 4.6 seems to love the 5w20 Motorcraft.
Originally Posted By: fsskier
now has 265K miles using Mobil 1 0W20 and 20K oil changes.
stranger706
Im curious.
Do you change the filter in between? And if not, does it seem to be limiting flow towards the end of the OCI? And last, have you cut one open?
Yes, I cut apart filters occasionally, they always had a trace of dirt at the bottom of the folds, but the filter always seemed to be ready to go again. These were always the standard bottom priced Fram filters from Walmart. No reduction in oil pressure was noted - at least even at a slow idle the light never flickered on!
Make note that I am not a "true believer" in Mobil 1, 0W20 or Fram filters or 20K oil changes, these reports just represent my experience. It seems many on here, after arriving at 200K miles declare that to be proof that there oil is the only one that can do that. The only real test is running multiple test engines tons of hours under identical conditions, then measuring the wear. I like the thinner oils for the likely improved mileage, and the dynamite winter starts both for home and skiing in the mountains.
now has 265K miles using Mobil 1 0W20 and 20K oil changes.
stranger706
Im curious.
Do you change the filter in between? And if not, does it seem to be limiting flow towards the end of the OCI? And last, have you cut one open?
Yes, I cut apart filters occasionally, they always had a trace of dirt at the bottom of the folds, but the filter always seemed to be ready to go again. These were always the standard bottom priced Fram filters from Walmart. No reduction in oil pressure was noted - at least even at a slow idle the light never flickered on!
Make note that I am not a "true believer" in Mobil 1, 0W20 or Fram filters or 20K oil changes, these reports just represent my experience. It seems many on here, after arriving at 200K miles declare that to be proof that there oil is the only one that can do that. The only real test is running multiple test engines tons of hours under identical conditions, then measuring the wear. I like the thinner oils for the likely improved mileage, and the dynamite winter starts both for home and skiing in the mountains.
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If you want your lighter oil to hold up and never damage your engine remember to flush your entire cooling system on a regular basis. I have a good local radiator shop flush both of our cars and he pulls the radiator and really cleans it out well every 3 years. I also noticed that in the past every time I flushed a engine (when i did it myself) the water pump went within 6 months. I now have the radiator shop replace the water pump after the flush, before putting the radiator back in. We never have any concern about our cars over-heating. And the oil is never over-heated. Also engine gaskets last longer if they are not abused by over-heating.
I have heard of Evans waterless antifreeze that is suppose to have zero corrosion and require no service. I am thinking of using it in the future.
JimPghPa
I have heard of Evans waterless antifreeze that is suppose to have zero corrosion and require no service. I am thinking of using it in the future.
JimPghPa
HUH???
Remove/rebuild radiator every three years? That helps the oil?
I do not have any cars with that poor of a cooling system, they run 190 degrees year around - the 3.1 litre tow vehicle may hit 210 degrees for a minute or so on the hottest day of summer at the top of a mile long hill-but thats towing 5,000 lbs. (gotta go a long ways to find a hill that long in Iowa) This has remained about constant throughout the life of the vehicle, I doubt that all that cleaning would make it better than new??
Still - on the bright side - the guy in the radiator shop may take that money and spend it wisely.
Remove/rebuild radiator every three years? That helps the oil?
I do not have any cars with that poor of a cooling system, they run 190 degrees year around - the 3.1 litre tow vehicle may hit 210 degrees for a minute or so on the hottest day of summer at the top of a mile long hill-but thats towing 5,000 lbs. (gotta go a long ways to find a hill that long in Iowa) This has remained about constant throughout the life of the vehicle, I doubt that all that cleaning would make it better than new??
Still - on the bright side - the guy in the radiator shop may take that money and spend it wisely.
Originally Posted By: fsskier
HUH???
Remove/rebuild radiator every three years? That helps the oil?
hop may take that money and spend it wisely.
maybe he has a BMW? The E46 lifespan for the entire cooling system is about 3 years--seriously. Also, he does live in PGH, home of heavily salted roads (at least when I lived there), and a LOT of hills.
I just dumped my coolant after the factory-recommended interval (well, a little eary, 4.5 years) and it actually looked OK. After running some distilled water through and dumping that, I saw zero contaminants in the system. I guess it depends on the car, and it's operating conditions.
HUH???
Remove/rebuild radiator every three years? That helps the oil?
hop may take that money and spend it wisely.
maybe he has a BMW? The E46 lifespan for the entire cooling system is about 3 years--seriously. Also, he does live in PGH, home of heavily salted roads (at least when I lived there), and a LOT of hills.
I just dumped my coolant after the factory-recommended interval (well, a little eary, 4.5 years) and it actually looked OK. After running some distilled water through and dumping that, I saw zero contaminants in the system. I guess it depends on the car, and it's operating conditions.
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Pgh has lots of hills. And I live on top of one of them.
Also it is easy to get stuck in traffic with the AC running on a hot day. After coming home on a hot summer day with plenty of traffic and climbing to the top of the hill, we then shut off the engine when we get home. A good way to get your car to overheat if the cooling system is marginal. I want both of our cars to be reliable.
Some people spend money to be a member of AAA and get towed when there vehicle breaks down. And some people chose to spend money to replace belts, flush cooling system, replace hoses, replace water pump, fluids, filters, (battery 4 months before the life expectancy is up), have starter and alternator rebuilt by a good shop every 50 K miles, keep good tires on the vehicle (winter and summer sets on rims Bridgestone Blizzak all 4 wheels both cars in winter) and have vehicles that you can drive any where any distance and know the vehicle will get you there. Some members of my family who drive are too old to have them get stranded, especially on very hot or very cold days.
JimPghPa
Also it is easy to get stuck in traffic with the AC running on a hot day. After coming home on a hot summer day with plenty of traffic and climbing to the top of the hill, we then shut off the engine when we get home. A good way to get your car to overheat if the cooling system is marginal. I want both of our cars to be reliable.
Some people spend money to be a member of AAA and get towed when there vehicle breaks down. And some people chose to spend money to replace belts, flush cooling system, replace hoses, replace water pump, fluids, filters, (battery 4 months before the life expectancy is up), have starter and alternator rebuilt by a good shop every 50 K miles, keep good tires on the vehicle (winter and summer sets on rims Bridgestone Blizzak all 4 wheels both cars in winter) and have vehicles that you can drive any where any distance and know the vehicle will get you there. Some members of my family who drive are too old to have them get stranded, especially on very hot or very cold days.
JimPghPa
Bill says to use one of these threads.
I am now using M1 5-20EP. I just recently switched both Duratechs over to the 5-20 from 5-30EP.I might add both engines sound very good on this oil. I run my engines out to 200-300K so does anyone think 5-20EP will cut miles off the engine?
(Tig1, I'm going to move this post to a better thread that was locked (but I've cleaned it up and re opened it) so you get better answers to this question. Plus it will not bring back a 6+ year old thread!)
I am now using M1 5-20EP. I just recently switched both Duratechs over to the 5-20 from 5-30EP.I might add both engines sound very good on this oil. I run my engines out to 200-300K so does anyone think 5-20EP will cut miles off the engine?
(Tig1, I'm going to move this post to a better thread that was locked (but I've cleaned it up and re opened it) so you get better answers to this question. Plus it will not bring back a 6+ year old thread!)
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May actually add miles to it.
The following article is a report on how the Ford Crown Victoria 4.6l (police interceptor, then later cab duty) gets 300k+ miles under the most severe service conditions using only 5w20.
http://www.hendonpub.com/resources/articlearchive/details.aspx?ID=373
There was also a Shell study that showed thinner oils like 5w20 are able to better lubricate piston rings resulting in lower wear.
The following article is a report on how the Ford Crown Victoria 4.6l (police interceptor, then later cab duty) gets 300k+ miles under the most severe service conditions using only 5w20.
http://www.hendonpub.com/resources/articlearchive/details.aspx?ID=373
There was also a Shell study that showed thinner oils like 5w20 are able to better lubricate piston rings resulting in lower wear.
I dumped a quart of 5w-20 into my Buick with 78k that specs 10w30, along with 4 quarts of dino 5w30. Should be about a 20-weight in another few thousand miles.
Fiancee's Honda with 20k miles has seen nothing but 5w-20 since we bought it. Should be fine for 150+k, as long as the transmission holds out.
Fiancee's Honda with 20k miles has seen nothing but 5w-20 since we bought it. Should be fine for 150+k, as long as the transmission holds out.
Remember that 20 weight at 9cSt is very close to 30 at 10cSt, and typically 30 weight will shear in use. So, many if not most vehicles are actually running around on 20 weight w/o knowing and w/o problems.
Remember too, there is more to an oil than just the thickness of the base. Any weight will destroy an engine with no additives. So, the additives are where it's at and where the magic lies.
Remember too, there is more to an oil than just the thickness of the base. Any weight will destroy an engine with no additives. So, the additives are where it's at and where the magic lies.
Got a friend with a small plumbing business with a few Ford vans all oil changes from new done at dealer with 5w20 and he usually trades them in with 150k-200k miles still running good.
my escape only has 65000 but all 5w20 MC
my escape only has 65000 but all 5w20 MC
I'm not sure why we are still arguing this point, though I admit the argument has toned down a lot. While there are exceptions, what the OE recommends is usually right. In most cases, a switch either way is not going to produce a noticeable change in engine longevity. The difference in MPG is fractional, if at all apparent. Cold start flow is a bit better on the thinner oil but not hugely different. The 20 grades don't shear much... but you wouldn't want them to. In heavy duty, hot weather service there could be a need for a more robust, higher viscosity oil, but that's something you would consider with any engine using any grade.
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Well-in these days of smaller & smaller engines, utilizing direct injection, running hotter to try to get MPGs higher-5W20 DEFINITELY bears watching!! IMHO, it better have a high HTHS value, or it would be risky to use in anything that's worked hard or has high HP ratings. I may be wrong-quality synthetic 5-20 might be fine-but I'd never risk it in a diesel.
I too am somewhat astonished that these concerns keep coming up. No problem in mentioning it, but that said, we're now a solid ten years into the spec-ing of xw-20 oils by major car manufacturers (Ford, Honda, and now others too), and we're just not seeing any harm from them. There are legions of Civics and Escorts out there with their small-ish, hard run engines, that have survived beautifully for years while showing no evidence of requiring something heavier than a 20 wt oil, or a 20 with a particularly high HTHS.
And the fact that a 20 wt oil may not proper for a diesel doesn't mean much (if anything) in this discussion. The xw-40 oil that's just right for a diesel would be not only wasteful, but potentially harmful in an engine that really needs a 20 wt. And before anyone goes "high and to the right" on me here, I very well understand that minor grade deviations are highly unlikely to cause any real harm to one's engine.
It's not a matter of one grade being "better" or "worse" than another in isolation from the real world. It's a matter of which oil is right for a given application.
Well-in these days of smaller & smaller engines, utilizing direct injection, running hotter to try to get MPGs higher-5W20 DEFINITELY bears watching!! IMHO, it better have a high HTHS value, or it would be risky to use in anything that's worked hard or has high HP ratings. I may be wrong-quality synthetic 5-20 might be fine-but I'd never risk it in a diesel.
I too am somewhat astonished that these concerns keep coming up. No problem in mentioning it, but that said, we're now a solid ten years into the spec-ing of xw-20 oils by major car manufacturers (Ford, Honda, and now others too), and we're just not seeing any harm from them. There are legions of Civics and Escorts out there with their small-ish, hard run engines, that have survived beautifully for years while showing no evidence of requiring something heavier than a 20 wt oil, or a 20 with a particularly high HTHS.
And the fact that a 20 wt oil may not proper for a diesel doesn't mean much (if anything) in this discussion. The xw-40 oil that's just right for a diesel would be not only wasteful, but potentially harmful in an engine that really needs a 20 wt. And before anyone goes "high and to the right" on me here, I very well understand that minor grade deviations are highly unlikely to cause any real harm to one's engine.
It's not a matter of one grade being "better" or "worse" than another in isolation from the real world. It's a matter of which oil is right for a given application.
ekpolk,
I agree that there doesn't seem to be any bad effects from 5-20 in engines designed for that wt.. All I can say that in my Duratechs the 5-20 seems to be a little bit differant than the 5-30 I was runnuing. On the positive side.
I agree that there doesn't seem to be any bad effects from 5-20 in engines designed for that wt.. All I can say that in my Duratechs the 5-20 seems to be a little bit differant than the 5-30 I was runnuing. On the positive side.
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