Thanks for the opinions shared guys,I think well see how the mobil 1 10w30 high mileage does in the old girl....
help me choose a new oil
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I currently have my Jeep 4.0 filled with M1 10W30 HM. Like you, the higher ZDDP and ACEA A3/B3 ratings of that product sort of piqued my interest for this particular throwback engine so I just gave it a try.
I was running Valvoline 10W40 prior, and my valvetrain was very noisy on that, with the M1 HM the clatter is gone. I'm not totally convinced API SM/GF-4 is the right oil for the Jeep inliners. I can't say that some of the high M1 Fe UOAs make me warm and fuzzy either.....
My general thought (based on little more than anecdotal evidence) on commonly available oils for the Jeep 4.0/2.5 is this:
HTHS >3.5
ZDDP 1K PPM or greater
10W or lower winter rating
I was running Valvoline 10W40 prior, and my valvetrain was very noisy on that, with the M1 HM the clatter is gone. I'm not totally convinced API SM/GF-4 is the right oil for the Jeep inliners. I can't say that some of the high M1 Fe UOAs make me warm and fuzzy either.....
My general thought (based on little more than anecdotal evidence) on commonly available oils for the Jeep 4.0/2.5 is this:
HTHS >3.5
ZDDP 1K PPM or greater
10W or lower winter rating
Originally Posted By: RKBA
I currently have my Jeep 4.0 filled with M1 10W30 HM. Like you, the higher ZDDP and ACEA A3/B3 ratings of that product sort of piqued my interest for this particular throwback engine so I just gave it a try.
I was running Valvoline 10W40 prior, and my valvetrain was very noisy on that, with the M1 HM the clatter is gone. I'm not totally convinced API SM/GF-4 is the right oil for the Jeep inliners. I can't say that some of the high M1 Fe UOAs make me warm and fuzzy either.....
My general thought (based on little more than anecdotal evidence) on commonly available oils for the Jeep 4.0/2.5 is this:
HTHS >3.5
ZDDP 1K PPM or greater
10W or lower winter rating
The 4.0 seems to have trouble with Fe wear in UOA when using synthetics...I am currently using Trop-artic 10w30 blend in my 4.0 flat tappet...
I thought about switching to Rotella or Mystik but I do not want to ruin my cats as it is a CA emissions car even thouhg I am in OK.
Any thoughts?
I currently have my Jeep 4.0 filled with M1 10W30 HM. Like you, the higher ZDDP and ACEA A3/B3 ratings of that product sort of piqued my interest for this particular throwback engine so I just gave it a try.
I was running Valvoline 10W40 prior, and my valvetrain was very noisy on that, with the M1 HM the clatter is gone. I'm not totally convinced API SM/GF-4 is the right oil for the Jeep inliners. I can't say that some of the high M1 Fe UOAs make me warm and fuzzy either.....
My general thought (based on little more than anecdotal evidence) on commonly available oils for the Jeep 4.0/2.5 is this:
HTHS >3.5
ZDDP 1K PPM or greater
10W or lower winter rating
The 4.0 seems to have trouble with Fe wear in UOA when using synthetics...I am currently using Trop-artic 10w30 blend in my 4.0 flat tappet...
I thought about switching to Rotella or Mystik but I do not want to ruin my cats as it is a CA emissions car even thouhg I am in OK.
Any thoughts?
Originally Posted By: FastSUV
The 4.0 seems to have trouble with Fe wear in UOA when using synthetics...I am currently using Trop-artic 10w30 blend in my 4.0 flat tappet...
I thought about switching to Rotella or Mystik but I do not want to ruin my cats as it is a CA emissions car even thouhg I am in OK.
Any thoughts?
The question to me would be, "does the higher zinc only poison the cat converter if the vehicle burns oil?"
My second question is, "Is ZDDP in fact measurably superior (to whatever additive is in most plain jane SM/GF-4 oils) for wear protection in a flat tappet 4.0 engine?"
I don't know the conclusive answer to those questions myself.
This I do know: for nearly all of the time that the Jeep 4.0 was earning it's reputation for longevity, the common OTC motor oils (SL and older) had higher ZDDP than the current products. While that isn't really any kind of proof in and of itself, it makes me FEEL better to use the "zinky" oils in my inline four and six.
I personally don't worry too much about cat converters - they are typically bashed up or rusty and need replacement every few years on my junk anyway.
The 4.0 seems to have trouble with Fe wear in UOA when using synthetics...I am currently using Trop-artic 10w30 blend in my 4.0 flat tappet...
I thought about switching to Rotella or Mystik but I do not want to ruin my cats as it is a CA emissions car even thouhg I am in OK.
Any thoughts?
The question to me would be, "does the higher zinc only poison the cat converter if the vehicle burns oil?"
My second question is, "Is ZDDP in fact measurably superior (to whatever additive is in most plain jane SM/GF-4 oils) for wear protection in a flat tappet 4.0 engine?"
I don't know the conclusive answer to those questions myself.
This I do know: for nearly all of the time that the Jeep 4.0 was earning it's reputation for longevity, the common OTC motor oils (SL and older) had higher ZDDP than the current products. While that isn't really any kind of proof in and of itself, it makes me FEEL better to use the "zinky" oils in my inline four and six.
I personally don't worry too much about cat converters - they are typically bashed up or rusty and need replacement every few years on my junk anyway.
Originally Posted By: RKBA
Originally Posted By: FastSUV
The 4.0 seems to have trouble with Fe wear in UOA when using synthetics...I am currently using Trop-artic 10w30 blend in my 4.0 flat tappet...
I thought about switching to Rotella or Mystik but I do not want to ruin my cats as it is a CA emissions car even thouhg I am in OK.
Any thoughts?
The question to me would be, "does the higher zinc only poison the cat converter if the vehicle burns oil?"
My second question is, "Is ZDDP in fact measurably superior (to whatever additive is in most plain jane SM/GF-4 oils) for wear protection in a flat tappet 4.0 engine?"
I don't know the conclusive answer to those questions myself.
This I do know: for nearly all of the time that the Jeep 4.0 was earning it's reputation for longevity, the common OTC motor oils (SL and older) had higher ZDDP than the current products. While that isn't really any kind of proof in and of itself, it makes me FEEL better to use the "zinky" oils in my inline four and six.
I personally don't worry too much about cat converters - they are typically bashed up or rusty and need replacement every few years on my junk anyway.
So what do you think then?? I am guessing Mystik 10w30 blend has higher ZDDP than my Trop-artic, but not quite high as Rotella?
I posed this problem in a previous thread and the answer I got back was the Trop-artic blend SM was ample because even though the I-6 is a flat tappet motor, it has stock weak valve springs and is also already broken in. Therefore, the rules about ZDDP I was worried about do not apply as much unless it is a new or performance flat tappet engine.
I have heard the Royal Purple also produced higher iron wear numbers in UOA in 4.0 Jeeps.
Originally Posted By: FastSUV
The 4.0 seems to have trouble with Fe wear in UOA when using synthetics...I am currently using Trop-artic 10w30 blend in my 4.0 flat tappet...
I thought about switching to Rotella or Mystik but I do not want to ruin my cats as it is a CA emissions car even thouhg I am in OK.
Any thoughts?
The question to me would be, "does the higher zinc only poison the cat converter if the vehicle burns oil?"
My second question is, "Is ZDDP in fact measurably superior (to whatever additive is in most plain jane SM/GF-4 oils) for wear protection in a flat tappet 4.0 engine?"
I don't know the conclusive answer to those questions myself.
This I do know: for nearly all of the time that the Jeep 4.0 was earning it's reputation for longevity, the common OTC motor oils (SL and older) had higher ZDDP than the current products. While that isn't really any kind of proof in and of itself, it makes me FEEL better to use the "zinky" oils in my inline four and six.
I personally don't worry too much about cat converters - they are typically bashed up or rusty and need replacement every few years on my junk anyway.
So what do you think then?? I am guessing Mystik 10w30 blend has higher ZDDP than my Trop-artic, but not quite high as Rotella?
I posed this problem in a previous thread and the answer I got back was the Trop-artic blend SM was ample because even though the I-6 is a flat tappet motor, it has stock weak valve springs and is also already broken in. Therefore, the rules about ZDDP I was worried about do not apply as much unless it is a new or performance flat tappet engine.
I have heard the Royal Purple also produced higher iron wear numbers in UOA in 4.0 Jeeps.
This is a thick,high zddp HDEO and I'm getting single didgit Fe numbers on both my 4.0L
Originally Posted By: Greaser
This is a thick,high zddp HDEO and I'm getting single didgit Fe numbers on both my 4.0L
Right on, those are good looking snapshots for the 4.0 engine that seem to support my little theory.
Too bad that product isn't available here in the United States. I'm not sure what would be an analogous oil here; one of the HDEOs like Rotella-T 5W40 perhaps.
I really, really like the specs of Amsoil ACD. I am just not too excited about the price of that oil for my personal application.
This is a thick,high zddp HDEO and I'm getting single didgit Fe numbers on both my 4.0L
Right on, those are good looking snapshots for the 4.0 engine that seem to support my little theory.
Too bad that product isn't available here in the United States. I'm not sure what would be an analogous oil here; one of the HDEOs like Rotella-T 5W40 perhaps.
I really, really like the specs of Amsoil ACD. I am just not too excited about the price of that oil for my personal application.
Originally Posted By: FastSUV
I posed this problem in a previous thread and the answer I got back was the Trop-artic blend SM was ample because even though the I-6 is a flat tappet motor, it has stock weak valve springs and is also already broken in. Therefore, the rules about ZDDP I was worried about do not apply as much unless it is a new or performance flat tappet engine.
That could indeed be true; I am not totally convinced either way. I tend to believe that decades of legendary longevity while running higher than SM/GF-4 ZDDP levels is at least worthy of consideration.
I am going to run a crankcase of Rotella-T 5W40 next. If the valvetrain is quiet and there is no drop off in fuel economy I might just stick with it.
It seems like Rotella has really climbed in price since I last purchased it. I had a small stash for my four banger Jeep that was $12 per gallon. Saw it recently at WM for $22 per gallon and five and some change for a quart; that makes a full oil change pretty much the same price as both M1 and PP.
OUCH
I posed this problem in a previous thread and the answer I got back was the Trop-artic blend SM was ample because even though the I-6 is a flat tappet motor, it has stock weak valve springs and is also already broken in. Therefore, the rules about ZDDP I was worried about do not apply as much unless it is a new or performance flat tappet engine.
That could indeed be true; I am not totally convinced either way. I tend to believe that decades of legendary longevity while running higher than SM/GF-4 ZDDP levels is at least worthy of consideration.
I am going to run a crankcase of Rotella-T 5W40 next. If the valvetrain is quiet and there is no drop off in fuel economy I might just stick with it.
It seems like Rotella has really climbed in price since I last purchased it. I had a small stash for my four banger Jeep that was $12 per gallon. Saw it recently at WM for $22 per gallon and five and some change for a quart; that makes a full oil change pretty much the same price as both M1 and PP.
OUCH
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