Heavy rust -- Is this car worth saving? (See pics)
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Originally Posted By: Cujet
Not worth bothering with. You could pick up a rust free Altima here in Florida for a song.
The problem with such corrosion is that it's also in critical locations you don't see.
That would be nice. Great idea.
Not worth bothering with. You could pick up a rust free Altima here in Florida for a song.
The problem with such corrosion is that it's also in critical locations you don't see.
That would be nice. Great idea.
Hi - Eastwood Rust Encapsulator will not help much here. Its like POR 15. You need to treat the rust first, then clean well then apply the Rust Encapsulator. Think of it as a hard turtle shell on top of treated rust preventing oxygen from getting in. Its good stuff for the right application. Not here. I would spray with Fluid Film. It will penetrate the rust and prevent new rust from forming.
Looks mostly cosmetic to me, the rest underneath looks okay.
Funny my 98 Altima hardly has any rust under there, but there's a little.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3825334/1
Funny my 98 Altima hardly has any rust under there, but there's a little.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3825334/1
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
I'd get 3 or 4 cans of spray paint and totally coat the underside of that car where the rust is. Totally saturate it.
Then drive it until it can't pass inspection or isn't safe to drive.
Then drive it until it can't pass inspection or isn't safe to drive.
Looking at the holes in the rockers, water will work its way to the bottom of the floor pans. Honestly, I would not have invested $400 bucks for tires on this car,it is too far gone.If the brake lines are also rusted, it probably is not safe either.Try to find another similiar car (in better shape)where you can put your new tires on it.
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Originally Posted By: MarkM66
If any of that rocker panel was still connected to the pinch weld, you should of left it alone. You removed structure. I'd be surprised if the door gaps aren't starting to widen/tighten.
I'm glad I opened it up. There was lots of rust sand/mud packed in there. I think this would trap moisture in the area causing the rust to get worse. There wasn't really anything of any significance holding the rocker panels to the pinch weld.
I think I'll take the one poster's advice and spray some fluid film in there.
If any of that rocker panel was still connected to the pinch weld, you should of left it alone. You removed structure. I'd be surprised if the door gaps aren't starting to widen/tighten.
I'm glad I opened it up. There was lots of rust sand/mud packed in there. I think this would trap moisture in the area causing the rust to get worse. There wasn't really anything of any significance holding the rocker panels to the pinch weld.
I think I'll take the one poster's advice and spray some fluid film in there.
Originally Posted By: Samuraidog
Originally Posted By: MarkM66
If any of that rocker panel was still connected to the pinch weld, you should of left it alone. You removed structure. I'd be surprised if the door gaps aren't starting to widen/tighten.
I think I'll take the one poster's advice and spray some fluid film in there.
Up to you, but if you don't already have the fluid film, diesel fuel mixed with, say 20-50%% motor oil is a better choice in this application, since its very penetrative, and very cheap. The main criticism of it (exaggerated IMO) is that it doesn't last, but with this car you're probably not really planning for the long term, and there is plenty of rust to soak up and retain the oil.
I've got no experience with the Eastman Rust Encapsulator product you mention but I'd say that, from a marketing perspective, its too honestly named.
Do you really want to encapsulate rust? That much rust?
From a British perspective this car would have no chance of passing inspection and would need new sills welded in. Might be worth getting a quote for that, but I doubt the numbers will make sense.
If you've got somewhere to work a basic MIG welder isn't all that expensive, but you'd need to be interested in learning how to do it for it to be a worthwhile purchase.
Best strategy (if you've got the space) is to look for another one and keep this as a parts mine.
Originally Posted By: MarkM66
If any of that rocker panel was still connected to the pinch weld, you should of left it alone. You removed structure. I'd be surprised if the door gaps aren't starting to widen/tighten.
I think I'll take the one poster's advice and spray some fluid film in there.
Up to you, but if you don't already have the fluid film, diesel fuel mixed with, say 20-50%% motor oil is a better choice in this application, since its very penetrative, and very cheap. The main criticism of it (exaggerated IMO) is that it doesn't last, but with this car you're probably not really planning for the long term, and there is plenty of rust to soak up and retain the oil.
I've got no experience with the Eastman Rust Encapsulator product you mention but I'd say that, from a marketing perspective, its too honestly named.
Do you really want to encapsulate rust? That much rust?
From a British perspective this car would have no chance of passing inspection and would need new sills welded in. Might be worth getting a quote for that, but I doubt the numbers will make sense.
If you've got somewhere to work a basic MIG welder isn't all that expensive, but you'd need to be interested in learning how to do it for it to be a worthwhile purchase.
Best strategy (if you've got the space) is to look for another one and keep this as a parts mine.
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Fluid Film would be my advice.
Originally Posted By: madRiver
Drive on till uninspectable or unsafe.
It's an old car in rust belt don't bother.
I think it's already there. I wouldn't waste the time on a car that's worth a few hundred bucks. It's likely creating a hazard to others on the road when this gem is jugging along.
Drive on till uninspectable or unsafe.
It's an old car in rust belt don't bother.
I think it's already there. I wouldn't waste the time on a car that's worth a few hundred bucks. It's likely creating a hazard to others on the road when this gem is jugging along.
In New Jersey you would pass, no problem. Just make sure your headlights work etc. If OBD2 passes, you pass....
In Massachusetts you would have to actually have something done with that to get an actual real inspection.
And there always seems to be the place that will sell/certify that you "passed," even if you didn't (sentence: "Hey, know anywhere I can buy a sticker" or "know anywhere that will pass me?" People with tinted windows know about this the most private facilities.)
Looks worse than my Blazer. But still... driveable.
When you get holes is when it's bad. Frame is the key.. seen Nissan (old Pathfinder) for sale on Craigslist once because the "subframe rusted and affected power steering." ...
In Massachusetts you would have to actually have something done with that to get an actual real inspection.
And there always seems to be the place that will sell/certify that you "passed," even if you didn't (sentence: "Hey, know anywhere I can buy a sticker" or "know anywhere that will pass me?" People with tinted windows know about this the most private facilities.)
Looks worse than my Blazer. But still... driveable.
When you get holes is when it's bad. Frame is the key.. seen Nissan (old Pathfinder) for sale on Craigslist once because the "subframe rusted and affected power steering." ...
These pics are from my 05 neon. The rockers totally disappeared in 2013. The prior owner slapped tin over them to pass inspection then. I removed the tin in 2014, half-fast sprayed rust convertor in the nooks, and bought premade steel slip on rockers. I tried welding them to the pinch weld, which worked half the time, until there was too much rust for my crummy HF wire feed flux welder. So the rest got self-tapping screws.
As you can see, the floor pans look great. Take my word for it that the brake lines and subframes, suspension mounts etc are all fine. Sometimes you can have localized rust. Rockers are great because they shame the driver into taking action without being that structural. As you see, my pinch welds still hold up the car on a jack. OP should take some sort of action, $100 worth, to get through the winter and also get underneath to make sure his brake lines are all there.
BTW, just sold this heap for $800 to someone who crawled underneath and verified that yup the rust wasn't that bad just ugly.
As you can see, the floor pans look great. Take my word for it that the brake lines and subframes, suspension mounts etc are all fine. Sometimes you can have localized rust. Rockers are great because they shame the driver into taking action without being that structural. As you see, my pinch welds still hold up the car on a jack. OP should take some sort of action, $100 worth, to get through the winter and also get underneath to make sure his brake lines are all there.
BTW, just sold this heap for $800 to someone who crawled underneath and verified that yup the rust wasn't that bad just ugly.
Its an old rusty car just drive it until something major breaks than donate it.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
These pics are from my 05 neon. The rockers totally disappeared in 2013. The prior owner slapped tin over them to pass inspection then. I removed the tin in 2014, half-fast sprayed rust convertor in the nooks, and bought premade steel slip on rockers. I tried welding them to the pinch weld, which worked half the time, until there was too much rust for my crummy HF wire feed flux welder. So the rest got self-tapping screws.
As you can see, the floor pans look great. Take my word for it that the brake lines and subframes, suspension mounts etc are all fine. Sometimes you can have localized rust. Rockers are great because they shame the driver into taking action without being that structural. As you see, my pinch welds still hold up the car on a jack. OP should take some sort of action, $100 worth, to get through the winter and also get underneath to make sure his brake lines are all there.
BTW, just sold this heap for $800 to someone who crawled underneath and verified that yup the rust wasn't that bad just ugly.
Reminded of my sister's 05 SXT turd (Neon) that wouldn't start when it rained outside.
Excellent excellent points about localized and non-structural rust.
Maybe some Blazer rocker pics are in order. I too "half sprayed" Corrosion X HD onto frames of Honda and Blazer.. and though I may see light surface rusts, it's not like it's rotted.. just old.. and with some rust..
These pics are from my 05 neon. The rockers totally disappeared in 2013. The prior owner slapped tin over them to pass inspection then. I removed the tin in 2014, half-fast sprayed rust convertor in the nooks, and bought premade steel slip on rockers. I tried welding them to the pinch weld, which worked half the time, until there was too much rust for my crummy HF wire feed flux welder. So the rest got self-tapping screws.
As you can see, the floor pans look great. Take my word for it that the brake lines and subframes, suspension mounts etc are all fine. Sometimes you can have localized rust. Rockers are great because they shame the driver into taking action without being that structural. As you see, my pinch welds still hold up the car on a jack. OP should take some sort of action, $100 worth, to get through the winter and also get underneath to make sure his brake lines are all there.
BTW, just sold this heap for $800 to someone who crawled underneath and verified that yup the rust wasn't that bad just ugly.
Reminded of my sister's 05 SXT turd (Neon) that wouldn't start when it rained outside.
Excellent excellent points about localized and non-structural rust.
Maybe some Blazer rocker pics are in order. I too "half sprayed" Corrosion X HD onto frames of Honda and Blazer.. and though I may see light surface rusts, it's not like it's rotted.. just old.. and with some rust..
I've seen quite a few of the older Buick LeSabres with this same issue. No visible exterior rust except for the rocker panels. The photos show no visible rust on the door and fender bottoms. My Camry's rockers are getting to this point, but aren't as bad..... yet.
If it were me, I would pop rivet some galvanized sheet metal as a patch panel over the entire rocker area seeing that you have a decent top edge in which to fasten it to. A local metal fab place near you may have a long metal brake to bend the bottom close enough to fasten it with some screws. It shouldn't cost much to try it and no welding is necessary. Try one piece first that is approx. 6" wide by approx. 7' long or so would do a lot to cover that up. But that is just me. My Camry is a great old car, good on gas and nice to have as a "no worry" car, so I tend to do more to keep it going than most people would do to a much nicer car.
If it doesn't work, fluid film it the best you can and drive it. Seems like you like the car for the most part.
If it were me, I would pop rivet some galvanized sheet metal as a patch panel over the entire rocker area seeing that you have a decent top edge in which to fasten it to. A local metal fab place near you may have a long metal brake to bend the bottom close enough to fasten it with some screws. It shouldn't cost much to try it and no welding is necessary. Try one piece first that is approx. 6" wide by approx. 7' long or so would do a lot to cover that up. But that is just me. My Camry is a great old car, good on gas and nice to have as a "no worry" car, so I tend to do more to keep it going than most people would do to a much nicer car.
If it doesn't work, fluid film it the best you can and drive it. Seems like you like the car for the most part.
As others have said, I would go to town with FF or another product to slow any additional rust damage. That could probably get you several more years out of the vehicle if you do a yearly touch up before winter.
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